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Aw shucks

with all that handling the Fin's fin has gone all black on my screen

;)

in truth sir it's looking good, very good

b

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Finding this very useful as well as enjoyable. Do like your process.

Ta. The process of applyinig varyiing high contrast greys and subsequently toning down with oversprayed base colour didn't work. It would have got rid of all the preshading on the bits around the odd panels.

It's ended up, as usual, being trial and error on a spare wing, before immediately painting the real thing if/when I was happy with the tones.

It's a hell of a lot of work considering it's basically a very boring grey scheme.

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Jeez oh mate that looks frickin awesome, seriously sweet looking GR. Can't wait to see this one wrapped up its been an outstanding build.

Eng

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I'm not a great fan of shading (pre or post), but that is really starting to look rather good!

Thanks, It's probably on the limit of what's acceptable, but I think one more overcoat of grey and it would have disappeared. One thing I don't want is a uniformly grey aircraft, so that's the best I can do with it. Luckily the real aircraft is so faded that it does exhibit something approaching the preshade effect.

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I like it.

In principle I'm one of those that thinks that camouflage schemes (particularly the all over grey schemes - but also the wraparound green/grey) need something doing to it to avoid an overall uniform colour.

Some tonal variation can be seen even on the jag in my avatar and it doesn't matter to me whether its a result of uneven reflection, cleaning, lack of cleaning, fading, oil, dirt or what-not.

Oh - and look how starkly the lines around the intake side doors shows up!

The trickier question for me is how to achieve enough of an effect without overdoing it.

I don't have a method myself - cos thus far since I've returned to modelling I've only done red, white and grey!!!!

But I like the effect you've achieved there dr_gn. It doesn't look too rooted in panel lines and it breaks up the scheme pleasingly.

For me it's going to be a question of practice and trial and error on a spare kit :)

Edited by Fritag

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Thanks for the commens!

I'll not be adding any panel washes on it, just a bit on selected features like around the engine exhausts and maybe the main control surface breaks, ifr housings etc.

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I really like how this is going G

The 'odd panels' look is getting to look real, which is the goal after all

Really nice looking Tornado already

b

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I really like how this is going G

The 'odd panels' look is getting to look real, which is the goal after all

Really nice looking Tornado already

b

Ta, yeah it looks OK now.

Trouble is, I keep putting that crap canopy in place and it kills me a little bit knowing that all the rear cockpit detail I put in, is going to look horribly distorted through it.

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I find a lot of shading totally OTT. Indeed were I to have walked out of the Line Hut and found my a/c in the condition that a lot of modellers think is acceptable, I would have walked straight back in, thrown the F700 at the FLMs and probably charged the Chief!

Your Tornado, on the other hand, looks spot on right to me.

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you know there's always a WAY

Time to go home brew?

Steve does so very nicely

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On 27/01/2015 at 11:34 PM, Ascoteer said:

I find a lot of shading totally OTT. Indeed were I to have walked out of the Line Hut and found my a/c in the condition that a lot of modellers think is acceptable, I would have walked straight back in, thrown the F700 at the FLMs and probably charged the Chief!

Your Tornado, on the other hand, looks spot on right to me.

]

Edited by dr_gn

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you know there's always a WAY

Time to go home brew?

Steve does so very nicely

I was toying with the idea of sawing the two individual glazed areas off the frame, and inserting some moulded acetate ones. Trouble is, if I use the original canopy as a mould, presumably the glazed bubbles will be too big for the orginal frame by the thickness of the acetate?

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In a way you are right, but when you mould off a canopy you are in control

so when you trim the remainder you can usually get the result very close to where you need it

Thin acetate is the answer to the overthick question

keep the basic material thinnish and most times it works out well

You just need to practise, do you want me to post you a few old canopies to practise on?

You make 'em and send good 'uns back to me ;)

Sounds like a plan

I have this Hasegawa/Frog F4K/M that might do for a practise...........

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In a way you are right, but when you mould off a canopy you are in control

so when you trim the remainder you can usually get the result very close to where you need it

Thin acetate is the answer to the overthick question

keep the basic material thinnish and most times it works out well

You just need to practise, do you want me to post you a few old canopies to practise on?

You make 'em and send good 'uns back to me ;)

Sounds like a plan

I have this Hasegawa/Frog F4K/M that might do for a practise...........

Thanks for the advice - nice offer, but I have three canopies for this kit (I requested spares from Revell in the hope they would be better than the one I had). so I can use one for a mould, make a few bubbles, then cut the glass (plastic) bits out and see what's what. I can use Fritag's method for making MDC - it looked OK, in fact I reckon with a bit of practice he could get pretty good at modelling :winkgrin:

Is there a "How to" on this somewhere? I'd like to avoid vacforming and use crash moulding if possible.

Ta.

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A how to?

Possibly but I dont know of one

I learned basic home moulding from Alan Hall's articles in sixties-seventies Airfix magazine where he used a main mould and pulled the hot acetate (works with plasticard as well for solid items) through a hole cut to shape in balsa

I did that many times then decided to try it without a female 'hole' to work through and had pretty good success 'my way' and have rarely bothered 'femaling' it since

I grip the acetate in both hands and get it hot, then pull it down and keep it pressed in and under by hand

Nowadays to work on a canopy I mix up a dollop of Milliput, fill the canopy to a; stop it moving under the heat and b; give me somewhere to bung a stick to hold in the vice

It is very easy to do

give it a go, you may like it

Thin canopies are amazing

;)

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The way I see it, I'd need to sacrifice two of my 3 canopies:

Cut the glazing out and keep the frame of 1)

Cut the glazing and discard the frame of 2)

Use the reinforced glazing geometry from 2) as a pattern to plunge mould the new canopy, trim and fit to the frame of 1)

Chances of it working to a reasonable degree I'd estimate at zero, but I'll give it a go I think.

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How about using the Airfix one that doesn't actually have the framing around it

It might work in your favour where you need just to mould 'the bubbles'

Seriously I'd advise learning the game with something you AREN'T depending on for the model

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