crobinsonh Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Very nice 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_gn Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 (edited) ] Edited August 27, 2017 by dr_gn 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAG058 Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Looking great so far! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Aw shucks with all that handling the Fin's fin has gone all black on my screen in truth sir it's looking good, very good b 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Finding this very useful as well as enjoyable. Do like your process. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_gn Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 Finding this very useful as well as enjoyable. Do like your process. Ta. The process of applyinig varyiing high contrast greys and subsequently toning down with oversprayed base colour didn't work. It would have got rid of all the preshading on the bits around the odd panels. It's ended up, as usual, being trial and error on a spare wing, before immediately painting the real thing if/when I was happy with the tones. It's a hell of a lot of work considering it's basically a very boring grey scheme. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eng Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Jeez oh mate that looks frickin awesome, seriously sweet looking GR. Can't wait to see this one wrapped up its been an outstanding build. Eng 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_gn Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 (edited) ] Edited August 27, 2017 by dr_gn 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ascoteer Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 I'm not a great fan of shading (pre or post), but that is really starting to look rather good! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_gn Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 I'm not a great fan of shading (pre or post), but that is really starting to look rather good! Thanks, It's probably on the limit of what's acceptable, but I think one more overcoat of grey and it would have disappeared. One thing I don't want is a uniformly grey aircraft, so that's the best I can do with it. Luckily the real aircraft is so faded that it does exhibit something approaching the preshade effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 (edited) I like it. In principle I'm one of those that thinks that camouflage schemes (particularly the all over grey schemes - but also the wraparound green/grey) need something doing to it to avoid an overall uniform colour. Some tonal variation can be seen even on the jag in my avatar and it doesn't matter to me whether its a result of uneven reflection, cleaning, lack of cleaning, fading, oil, dirt or what-not. Oh - and look how starkly the lines around the intake side doors shows up! The trickier question for me is how to achieve enough of an effect without overdoing it. I don't have a method myself - cos thus far since I've returned to modelling I've only done red, white and grey!!!! But I like the effect you've achieved there dr_gn. It doesn't look too rooted in panel lines and it breaks up the scheme pleasingly. For me it's going to be a question of practice and trial and error on a spare kit Edited January 27, 2015 by Fritag 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_gn Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 Thanks for the commens! I'll not be adding any panel washes on it, just a bit on selected features like around the engine exhausts and maybe the main control surface breaks, ifr housings etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_gn Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 (edited) P] Edited August 27, 2017 by dr_gn 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 I really like how this is going G The 'odd panels' look is getting to look real, which is the goal after all Really nice looking Tornado already b 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_gn Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 I really like how this is going G The 'odd panels' look is getting to look real, which is the goal after all Really nice looking Tornado already b Ta, yeah it looks OK now. Trouble is, I keep putting that crap canopy in place and it kills me a little bit knowing that all the rear cockpit detail I put in, is going to look horribly distorted through it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ascoteer Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 I find a lot of shading totally OTT. Indeed were I to have walked out of the Line Hut and found my a/c in the condition that a lot of modellers think is acceptable, I would have walked straight back in, thrown the F700 at the FLMs and probably charged the Chief! Your Tornado, on the other hand, looks spot on right to me. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 you know there's always a WAY Time to go home brew? Steve does so very nicely 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ascoteer Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Aye. Mould yer own canopy! You know it makes sense. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_gn Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 (edited) On 27/01/2015 at 11:34 PM, Ascoteer said: I find a lot of shading totally OTT. Indeed were I to have walked out of the Line Hut and found my a/c in the condition that a lot of modellers think is acceptable, I would have walked straight back in, thrown the F700 at the FLMs and probably charged the Chief! Your Tornado, on the other hand, looks spot on right to me. ] Edited August 27, 2017 by dr_gn 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_gn Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 you know there's always a WAY Time to go home brew? Steve does so very nicely I was toying with the idea of sawing the two individual glazed areas off the frame, and inserting some moulded acetate ones. Trouble is, if I use the original canopy as a mould, presumably the glazed bubbles will be too big for the orginal frame by the thickness of the acetate? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 In a way you are right, but when you mould off a canopy you are in control so when you trim the remainder you can usually get the result very close to where you need it Thin acetate is the answer to the overthick question keep the basic material thinnish and most times it works out well You just need to practise, do you want me to post you a few old canopies to practise on? You make 'em and send good 'uns back to me Sounds like a plan I have this Hasegawa/Frog F4K/M that might do for a practise........... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_gn Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 In a way you are right, but when you mould off a canopy you are in control so when you trim the remainder you can usually get the result very close to where you need it Thin acetate is the answer to the overthick question keep the basic material thinnish and most times it works out well You just need to practise, do you want me to post you a few old canopies to practise on? You make 'em and send good 'uns back to me Sounds like a plan I have this Hasegawa/Frog F4K/M that might do for a practise........... Thanks for the advice - nice offer, but I have three canopies for this kit (I requested spares from Revell in the hope they would be better than the one I had). so I can use one for a mould, make a few bubbles, then cut the glass (plastic) bits out and see what's what. I can use Fritag's method for making MDC - it looked OK, in fact I reckon with a bit of practice he could get pretty good at modelling Is there a "How to" on this somewhere? I'd like to avoid vacforming and use crash moulding if possible. Ta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 A how to? Possibly but I dont know of one I learned basic home moulding from Alan Hall's articles in sixties-seventies Airfix magazine where he used a main mould and pulled the hot acetate (works with plasticard as well for solid items) through a hole cut to shape in balsa I did that many times then decided to try it without a female 'hole' to work through and had pretty good success 'my way' and have rarely bothered 'femaling' it since I grip the acetate in both hands and get it hot, then pull it down and keep it pressed in and under by hand Nowadays to work on a canopy I mix up a dollop of Milliput, fill the canopy to a; stop it moving under the heat and b; give me somewhere to bung a stick to hold in the vice It is very easy to do give it a go, you may like it Thin canopies are amazing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_gn Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 The way I see it, I'd need to sacrifice two of my 3 canopies: Cut the glazing out and keep the frame of 1) Cut the glazing and discard the frame of 2) Use the reinforced glazing geometry from 2) as a pattern to plunge mould the new canopy, trim and fit to the frame of 1) Chances of it working to a reasonable degree I'd estimate at zero, but I'll give it a go I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 How about using the Airfix one that doesn't actually have the framing around it It might work in your favour where you need just to mould 'the bubbles' Seriously I'd advise learning the game with something you AREN'T depending on for the model Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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