steeli Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Just starting the finishing touches to what has been a very pleasant build. However, those decal roundels, they for the model or repairing punctures on my bicycle? Jeebus they're thick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Crusty one Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 (edited) my sympathies mate....ive had nothing but trouble with tamiya decals, considering airfix kits are considered to be so inferior in my opinion their decals are infinatly better! Edited July 13, 2014 by The Crusty one 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Maas Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 (edited) Tamiya-printed decals are awful. Solvaset will get them to set though, Microsol/Microset just aren't strong enough. Ironically the older the decals the better they are. I've done a couple early-80's boxings from Tamiya with few decal issues, but the more recent ones are always a PITA. I tend to skip the Tamiya box schemes for that reason. Beware one thing: Some recent Tamiya sheets have been printed by Cartograf, and are superb, but you CAN'T use Solvaset on these, they're too delicate. All their new 1/32 stuff is Cartograf-printed. Edited July 13, 2014 by Adam Maas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rav Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 However, those decal roundels, they for the model or repairing punctures on my bicycle? Jeebus they're thick!What version are you doing? If it is the PK-G, you better take the Techmod decals. Tamiya ones are different to the real Mustang. I can tell you more if you are interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonkeyVong Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 (edited) Never had a problem with Tamiya decals, but I have always applied them to a gloss surface using 'Mr Mark Softer' decal solution, but go easy with it as it can lift the paint and you have to get the decals in position very quickly. They look a lot thinner once they have dried out using 'Mr Mark Softer'. Edited July 13, 2014 by VonkeyVong 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Maas Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Never had a problem with Tamiya decals, but I have always applied them to a gloss surface using 'Mr Mark Softer' decal solution, but go easy with it as it can lift the paint and you have to get the decals in position very quickly. They look a lot thinner once they have dried out using 'Mr Mark Softer'. Solvaset has the same effect, but more working time. The decals are still a PITA before you get the decal solution on though, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonkeyVong Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 my sympathies mate....ive had nothing but trouble with tamiya decals, considering airfix kits are considered to be so inferior in my opinion their decals are infinatly better! In my experience with airfix decals I have had poor register, poor colour density, colour bleed, decals that looked like they were printed on a dot matrix printer in the Nimrod and TSR2 and the latest one is the Javelin decals where even the Mr Mark Softer wouldnt touch them, no reaction at all to it. I have been told by some people they have had limited success with Johnsons Klear on the Javelin decals. They have done some kits with good decals as they used Cartograph for a little while but appear to be using cheaper decals again now. The decals in the pre Hornby days were ok if you got a usable set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steeli Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 I'm doing the GA Q version. I've ended up using a blend of kit decals and decals left from the revell mkXVI spit. And liberal doses of revell decal soft. It's all I have in at the moment. Still hasn't put me off doing another later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don McIntyre Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 That Tamiya P-51B is near the top of my favorite kits list. A completely trouble-free, easy build. Here's mine, finished using Metalizer and Modelmaster paints and then using Ventura Decals for the very colorful Swiss markings. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steeli Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Very nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steeli Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 Completely ballsed this up Fecking Humbrol Clear went cloudy, likely because of the humidity. Bright idea was to put in the oven for a minute or two (had recently been using it so thought why not while it's cooling) as no radiators on. Trying Humbrols suggestion to get rid of the cloudiness. Guess who forgot it was there!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobby Clarke Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 On 7/13/2014 at 10:25 AM, rav said: On 7/13/2014 at 6:40 AM, steeli said: However, those decal roundels, they for the model or repairing punctures on my bicycle? Jeebus they're thick! What version are you doing? If it is the PK-G, you better take the Techmod decals. Tamiya ones are different to the real Mustang. I can tell you more if you are interested. Rav, I’m interested to learn more about the mistakes in the Tamiya decals for this aircraft. Nobby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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