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Airfix new tool 1/72 Mk.1B Typhoon, Dragon's 1/72 Zimmeritted Panther Ausf G and Tiger I Diorama - Finished


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Stix,

Looking pretty damn amazing there mate. It's a good looking plane and you're doing it justice in this rendition.

I did have a quick thought as I looked over your last couple of posts. Presumably those invasion stripes were painted pretty much the day before this Tiffy left the ground, in which case is the weathering a bit heavy? The paint would pretty much still be tacky so would there really be much in the way of fading or GSR on the casing exit holes?

Anyway, still a brilliant job.

Richard

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Thank you for your kind comments Sean, Arnold, Steve, Sarge, Iain and Richard.

Sarge - you have a keen eye! - I did wonder if anyone would notice the absence of two rockets.

Richard - thank you for that. I wasn't sure but thought, because the Xtradecals I've used suggest this Typhoon was based in Plumetot in France in July 1944, that it may have been in use for a while since it had been painted? If it should be cleaner I can easily do a bit of tidying up.

And my Prop Blurs have arrived! This weekend I shall have a go at making one of them up.

Kind regards,

Stix

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The Maybach 230 series were a bit smoky it seems.

It's likely a little easier on the engine to run it rich (and hence a bit cooler). The cylinder walls are notoriously thin. The Panther does have an automatic fire extinguisher in the engine bay, but you don't want to invoke that unnecessarily, surely! :)

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Good luck with the Prop Blurs!

What I found easiest was to do the overall paint colour first - ie black, then using my circular cutter I made a circle of frisket 3mm smaller in diameter. This could then be stuck over one side. I then cut down the middle of each gap and folded the flaps over to the other side to complete the masking.

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Stix,

I think I was really just pondering about the difference between the fresh painted areas (the stripes) and the rest of the aircraft, but you've done more research than me and if this diorama is representing a few days after d-day then I think your weathering is probably spot on.

Keep up the good work.

Richard

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Hi Brews,

Thank you for your kind comment and suggestion about the blurs on UAMF. They look excellent on screen. I will have a go at printing some on acetate as I don't have any decal paper. I'll then have a go at making some up over the weekend.

Hi Kallisti,

Thank you for the advice - I shall have a go at painting them this weekend.

I will then take some photos of both the PE blurs and the acetate ones and post them on here to see what everyone thinks.

Hi Richard,

Thank you again.

Kind regards,

Stix

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Yeah........ maybe a bit too late now!!

I'll try both the ones you suggested and the PE ones and see which look best.

Edited by PlaStix
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Didn't get a huge amount of time on this today and I spent most of it cutting out 3 acetate prop blurs (created by James Perrin) that Brews had mentioned were available on UAMF.org.uk. I also painted one of the PE blurs that arrived earlier in the week. I ended up printing out the ones from UAMF on over-head projector acetate with the printer set on transparency.

Now which should I use? I think I have a preference but I'd be interested to know what others on BM think so I've used Blu tack to attach each temporarily to the Typhoon. There are 3 photos of each.

Acetate with 15 degrees of blur:

14767722563_7bf1883bcb_c.jpg

14767721693_2607a8037a_c.jpg

14561401127_b4463b5acf_c.jpg

Acetate with 10 degrees of blur:

14767720003_6a44ebeb61_c.jpg

14767719073_a8a1681d38_c.jpg

14561180610_9e2128eeee_c.jpg

Acetate curved blades with 15 degree of blur:

14747853905_b537e13540_c.jpg

14561209288_d1a2e83b16_c.jpg

14724854206_136818d47c_c.jpg

PE prop blur - this one is smaller than the acetate versions so I would need to cut the central part and move the individual blades out slightly to make it the correct size for this Typhoon:

14745503554_ae5b20262e_c.jpg

14747554262_19201faee7_c.jpg

14747848305_0cec985bf1_c.jpg

So.........which of these do you think looks the best?

Kind regards,

Stix

Edited by PlaStix
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PE - the acetate ones all have an edge to them that catch the light and ruin the effect. I tried that type of prop blur before I started using PE and they are IMO nowhere near as effective as the PE ones. In real life, ie with Mk 1 Eyeball, the PE prop blurs are astonishingly realistic as you catch it out of the corner of your eye and it looks so real.

I doubt if anyone would notice the difference in size once they are mounted. Might want to tone down the yellow tip a bit as the blur effect would tend to lighted such a bright colour

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I would have to say the p/e as i'm going to use them however i think 1 ) Acetate with 15 degrees of blur look good.

Just an idea how about painting the etched ones like the acetate ie with some greys and mellow down the yellow ?

of course i'm sugesting this as if it works i too will do it , if it doesn't i can save some time ;)

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Hi Kallisti, Richard, Arnold and Sean - thank you for your input. At the moment I think I am going to go with the PE prop blur.

Kallisti - thank you for the advice about the yellow - I have over-painted it with a lighter yellow

This morning I gave the Typhoon a coat of Humbrol's spray can matt varnish and then fitted the exhausts:

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I hope to get this one mostly finished today so I can make a start on the Panther.

Comments and suggestions welcome.

Kind regards,

Stix

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Hi Mottlemaster,

I'd just been typing out my last reply when you posted yours. Thank you for your input too. I agree - I think out of the acetate ones the 15 degree one looks best too but I am probably going with the PE one. And, as I mentioned above I have toned down the yellow.

Kind regards,

Stix

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Well the Typhoon is just about complete. There's still some bits of work needed but it will be done when the diorama is being put together. I couldn't resist taking a few quick photos yesterday against one of the sky backgrounds I've got and I've posted one the pics below. I'll try and get some good photos of it in the next week or so to post in the RFI section:

14742431896_6154320078_c.jpg

Next up: the Panther!

Comments and suggestions welcome.

Kind regards,

Stix

Edited by PlaStix
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Good afetrnoon Stix

Very nice work .. I regret this Gb wilt not last enough for me to build all the kits I would like to buid and the new Airfix Typhoon is surely one of them ...

Patrice

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Thank you Pascal and Patrice.

Patrice - it would be good to see another one of these built - so if you get chance - give it go!

Kind regards,

Stix

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I'll try and get some good photos of it in the next week or so to post in the RFI section:

14742431896_6154320078_c.jpg

Wait, you mean that isn't a good photo? :coolio: I think it's a brilliant photo! You've made an excellent job of the Tiffie Stix :clap2:

Cheers,

Stew

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Thank you Stew - you are too kind!

Okay it's Panther time!

For anyone who hasn't read any of the earlier stuff in this thread this what I'm going to work on next:

14598798859_dff313ecc2_c.jpg

I haven't made a tank since I was very young so this is outside my comfort zone.

Inside the box:

14598948107_cc61fc23c8_c.jpg

I have previously got all the parts washed so it was a case of deciding what to do first. The instructions suggest the turret but a lot of builds on BM seem to start with the wheels so I decided to start with latter too. Apart from anything else they will be less prominent than the turret and they'll give me chance to practice!

So I decided to ease my way in with some painting:

Front of the sprue:

14598796589_9485787660_c.jpg

Back of the sprue:

14598945767_596757742f_c.jpg

I have to say I do like the level of detail in this 1/72 Dragon kit:

14762465346_6b4cd403b9_c.jpg

Well that's as far as I got - it took me quite a while painting each with a brush!

Comments and suggestions welcome - I'm going to need all the help I can get with this!

Kind regards,

Stix

Edited by PlaStix
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