Hasegawa GR 7 1/48

[sailorboy61]

To take my frustration away from trying to fix the Windows in my Airfix Fiesta RS, I've turned to one of my Hasegawa GR7s OOB for light relief

Can anyone advise on the square hole left in the bottom of the nose cone assembly. I can't see from the instructions anything that fills this and looks lit it will leave an ugly void.

What am I missing please?

[Breaker]

Off the top of my head, it's meant to be one of the gas exhausts for when it's in vertical mode?

[spike7451]

It's one of the directional vents for turning the leaping heap when it's hovering,the's identical vents in the tail boom & wingtips

[sailorboy61]

Thanks, Ill find some way of tidying it up then.

[SaintsPhil]

Have a look here for all your harrier building needs!

http://harriersig.org.uk/models/GR9BuildFinishingNotes48thv2.pdf

[sailorboy61]

Have a look here for all your harrier building needs!

http://harriersig.org.uk/models/GR9BuildFinishingNotes48thv2.pdf

Oh thanks Phil, forgotten about that, printed a copy of that a while back, I'll dig it out!!

[sailorboy61]

Strange that the others are molded in but thats just a big hole, anyway, sorted. Suprised how well this kit goes together. Not so keen on the GR.7 bits plastic as opposed to the AV-8B, but does the trick. Struggling with fitting the sliding part of canopy to runner which won't match the shape even with PVA and tape and keeps popping off one side - any suggestions? And managed to get a tiny crack in the canopy edge polishing out the seam, but will live with that!

[sailorboy61]

I'm still struggling with the canopy onto the sliding rail problem. I've tried PVA, and proprietary canopy glue which seems to hold things a while but eventually it pops off again. Seems to be the slight curve along the bottom of the clear part. Tried clamping and taping, but the lip where the clear sits is so small.

I know that CA will cause fogging, but will Tamiya extra thin have the same effect?

Cheers

[xffw45343tg]

The nose Reaction Control Valve terminates in a shutter which has transverse ribs. The shutter slides fore & aft over the end of the duct, opening it to release high pressure bleed air and so pitch the aircraft upwards. Off the top of my head there are about 5 such ribs. Scrap of styrene sheet with a few strips of your thinnest Evergreen/Plastruct should do the trick (or even just scribed lines would be pretty convincing at this scale). There's something very similar for the yaw RCV on parts A1 and B1 or the roll ones are on parts F8 and F9.

Can't help much with your canopy problem I'm afraid. Presumably lots of ventilation should avoid fogging - it's not in an enclosed space after all; maybe glue the frame with CA and bring it together with the canopy in the presence of your(!) hairdryer?

Kirk

[xffw45343tg]

Edit: Make that 4 ribs. See 17 seconds into this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4ZH8U2u8-A#t=24

[sailorboy61]

Edit: Make that 4 ribs. See 17 seconds into this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4ZH8U2u8-A#t=24

Excellent - thanks. Evergreen strip out tonight!

[Jon Bryon]

I'm still struggling with the canopy onto the sliding rail problem. I've tried PVA, and proprietary canopy glue which seems to hold things a while but eventually it pops off again. Seems to be the slight curve along the bottom of the clear part. Tried clamping and taping, but the lip where the clear sits is so small.

I know that CA will cause fogging, but will Tamiya extra thin have the same effect?

Cheers

I exclusively use Tamiya Extra Thin for an extremely strong clear/regular plastic bond. But be warned! If you get *any* of it on the clear plastic, it will craze. On the outside it can be polished out once dry. The main issue is where the plastic cement wicks to once you apply it.

Jon