Tim Moff Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 (edited) Well - here goes.....I will start the 2 models together and WIP on the same thread! 1st up is the Airfix GR7A kit in 1/72 - to be built OOB as per the aircraft GR7A, ZD404 'Lucy' that appears to have been in theatre in Apr-Oct 2006 during 3 PARA's tour on Op Herrick 4, on which I served. And 2nd on my lil worktable in the garage will be the Revell 1/48, GR9, with the after market decals produced for the retirement, made by Airframe, in the guise of ZG472, 'JEDI 3', flown by Lt Comd James Blackmore RN, brother of my old Platoon Commander during Herrick 4, Andy Blackmore, using the 65% LERX in the set, a PJ 1/48 Pilot, I also got a Pavla S48030 MB Mk12 seat, not sure if it will work with the pilot so may just use the kit seat. Looking forward to the new challenge, I have only completed a Lakenheath F4D, which I hand painted and weathered and is now on the ceiling as my first model back after 25 years, I have also got an AFV Club F5E that I have just pre-shaded ready for an ambitious Aggressor Grape scheme with my 1st airbrush attempt! I will be building out of the box, filling, weathering etc - however I think Canopy sanding etc may be a bit ambitious as yet! Any top tips, colours (nozzles??!!) for the build will be appreciated - please don't laugh too much! The mission begins tomorrow (I am on leave and my wife is helping on a school trip) so wish me luck!! Edited June 4, 2014 by Tim Moff 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 4, 2014 Author Share Posted June 4, 2014 Is it me or is the Pavla MB12 seat missing the initiating handle (yellow and black)?? May stick with the kit seat so it all hopefully fits!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 Looking forward to this one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 5, 2014 Author Share Posted June 5, 2014 lol for all the wrong reasons, can only do my best! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SaintsPhil Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 Go for it Tim I'm sure you'll do a good job, we're all here to help! Unfortunately the kit seat is the US stencel seat, not the MB, one of the corners cut when they made the UK version of the kit. You might be better off removing all of the belts on the Pavla seat. Have you seen this http://harriersig.org.uk/models/GR9BuildFinishingNotes48thv2.pdf Worth looking through! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 5, 2014 Author Share Posted June 5, 2014 Yes thanks, what I am using as a basic guide, though some is a bit too technical for my skills! The Pavla seat I have seems to be missing the initiator, not to worry, will attempt to take the belts off below the top pad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 5, 2014 Author Share Posted June 5, 2014 (edited) Interesting Pic of ZD404 Lucy (minus Lucy!) taken in July 2009, in the Mach Loop in Wales - flying surfaces appear to to be MSG and the fin also has a 'dash' at the front... Edited June 5, 2014 by Tim Moff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 By "dash" do you mean the total temperature probe? In Michael Lovering's picture it is casting a shadow along the fin. Notable in Nigel Blake's shot is the little pale grey rectangle on the intake lip. Not noticed this before and may be a repair (or my erratic observation skills). Wonder where the original "access panel 7LH" lives now? Some enterprising chap was selling replicas on ebay a while back... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 5, 2014 Author Share Posted June 5, 2014 OH ok, its a shadow on the fin? It looked as if it was painted, the strip just above the serial; number? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 5, 2014 Author Share Posted June 5, 2014 Well, I cracked on with the 1/72 this morning, a bit of hand painting and prep - looks a bit messy close up! tried a mix of colours with the pilot, grey helmet (new type), desert flight suit with green g-pants. Also done some nozzles, cockpit interior etc - remember I am a novice so be kind, not looking for exact colour matches etc. Maybe get some assembly done this afternoon, and have a look at the 1/48! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 OH ok, its a shadow on the fin? It looked as if it was painted, the strip just above the serial; number? Let's see if I can explain what I mean better: The "33" is the tail code - a convenient abbreviation for identification within the squadron. Can change as aircraft is reassigned. The pale yellow strip sloping forward from the base of the second 3 is the formation light, which is slightly raised from the surface of the fin. To the right of the formation light is the fin flash (=this aircraft is British) To the left of the formation light is the total temperature probe - a fancy thermometer in a shiny metal (steel?) case. This is the thing that I'm saying is casting a long shadow down to the fin flash. At the leading edge of the fin is a sort of mustardy coloured protection strip. IIRC, these start out clear and get a sun tan over time. The pale grey section near the base of the leading edge is an access panel that when removed provides access to the hydraulic power control unit that operates the rudder. The section of "fin" forward of this is actually part of the fuselage and is a cooling air intake for the aft avionics bay. Underneath this is the aircraft serial number - ZD404. This doesn't change as the aircraft moves between squadrons, though I'd image if we say sold the aircraft to a partner nation, they'd give it their own serial number. In the desert. In Arizona. Hope that helps. I see you've progressed to the cockpit, so I'll keep chipping in with unsolicited comments: The harness webs around the pilot are pretty much all the same colour as those you've painted on the headrest There are knee-holes in the anti-G trousers where the sand coloured overalls would "peep through" The small rectangular "knee boards" on the pilots thighs are generally white In flight the display screens are probably a bit darker with green imagery. Colour you've painted looks to be spot on for when they're off. The white blob above the right display (MPCD) is the engine display panel. Mostly black with lots of white numerals on the drum counters so white is kind of OK Parachute box sides are mostly black too. Ray's Tek has one listed on ebay at the mo so you can see real markings if you're interested. I never fail to be impressed at how model pilots fly with just the rudder but this is not something easily addressed below 1:24 scale!! Cheers, Kirk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 5, 2014 Author Share Posted June 5, 2014 cheers Kirk, I think you misunderstand - I mean there is a patch of paint at the front of the fin above the serial number that appears to be a different shade of grey - unless this is some sort of panel? I thought the whole fin was one colour? - totally understand all the markings (served in the Army 25 years and was bought up in Lakenheath so know the basics!) Thanks for the advice on pilot colours - 1/72 is a bit fiddly especially on the instrument panel....mixed a bit of silver and blue to experiment.....may lighten it a touch! I tried to simulate the serial numbers on the Para box with the silver, will take it down a touch, gonna leave the MPCD and take your help with the 1/48! Will revisit the pilot too...doubt we will see much, again its all good for experience! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 Yes, that's the access panel for the rudder PFCU. No 62, apparently. Sorry if I was teaching you to suck eggs! Anyone who can paint a 1:72 pilot in more than 2 colours is doing pretty well in my book. Looking forward to your 1:48. You realise that you'll need to take on a Trumpeter 1:32(!!) and Airfix 1:24 next though, don't you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 Looking good Tim. The Airfix instructions show that portion of the fin as Med Sea Grey for GR9A ZD433 - I assume its the same for 'Lucy' in the pic above. I'm doing something similar for ZG471. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 A few pics of my build so far (been working on shift for 5 days, will continue during my down time on Monday). Nice kit to work with, been a bit messy with glue and had some issues with the wing/LERX fit. Seems the wings fit slightly lower at the front LERX end and to the Aft - it took some holding etc to get it in etc. My plan is to fill the ares as there is a bit of a gap and sand down and hope the paint will cover it! Anyone else have the issue with their new tool build? Now the tail plane - whats that all about??!! The boom broke when I took it off the sprue, so had to use some superglue on the Starboard one and snipped it the ports one as the refused together - therefore they are too close to the fuselage - such is life, live and learn. Will continue to finish closing up and with the rails then fill the gaps, sand down, mask the cockpit area and prime - any advice on the canopy - on and mask and spray or hand paint the frames? 1/48 I would mask and spray. Any comments/advice is appreciated, just remember I am going for a basic build and a model not an uber replica!! Cockpit area and messy hole for the probe thingy on the nose. Will tidy it up with putty. LERX and rear wing issues - fill and sand - glue will be sanded off! Tail plane issues Cockpit and engine and that hole again (now got my new tools!) Well, some recovering and cleaning up to do, before filling and sanding - gotta say I feel more comfortable with 1/48, its been years since I tried 1/72 - but I have an old tool GR7/FA2 just arrived and may have a pop with them and see if I can improve during the group built! Thanks for wincing - but I don't care, will "Reg it out"!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 Any pointers on the colour behind the ejector seat, the bulkhead....its grey currently but pis I have seen indicate black? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Looking good Tim! I had trouble with the seam (well all the seams) where the rear of the wing meets the top of the fuselage. I thought I had it taken care of, but it showed up nicely after I had sprayed the MSG. I think Jabba gave good advice - be willing to do multiple fill/sand cycles. But also remember that you are going to hang this from the ceiling, so maybe don't need to spend too much time on the seams on the TOP anyway (unless hanging upside down!) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SaintsPhil Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Looking good! I think the deck that fits to the canopy part is the same colour as the cockpit, dark Admiralty grey (although dark sea grey is close enough). Looks black due to shadows in that shot. I saw your request for decals, just be careful asking in the threads, the GB rules state all wants go in the wanted section, for which you need 100 posts! This sheet has them http://www.hannants.co.uk/product/MD100 And here's the ones I used http://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ML72102 Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 HI Tim, Just as a matter of interest, what adhesives are you using? Kirk PS/ "Probe thingies" are the pitot/static ports, which are used to measure airspeed, altitude & vertical speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Oh, regarding the canopy rails: my humble suggestion is to try and mask them if you're going to spray it. My first few builds I painted the rails by hand thinking that masking was too much work, but was pleasantly surprised how easy masking is when I tried it. Just make sure you have some thin strips for the edges and then fill in the rest. Either way, sure it will look great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 Thanks guys - sorry Saints Phil, wasn't sure about the decals thing - thansk for the tip, don't want to be a copycat but the green is a great colour and since my boys are going to have a large hanging harrier collection (eventually!) a bit of variety would be good! Thanks for the info Kirk - being an Ex - Paratrooper technical terms within my range are words like, 'Weapon, enemy, TAB, Laser' etc!! With aircraft tends to be Ramp, Para-door, bombs, missiles and guns! I am using Revell Contacta in the main, although I do have some Humbrol liquid Poly that I could use - I tend to use a dot of superglue for small parts. I I get an odd bit of surplus I trt to clear asap with white spirit? Any advice would be great, I am knew back and really am working from my schoolboy experience and am aware that glues can ruin projects. Whats best to remove the stuff in the pics? I am hoping that with more builds and practice I will get a cleaner finish! I am planning to fill, sand and then prime with Halfords grey - any advice ref 1/72 cockpits, masking , fit before painting or after etc? Thanks in advance - on my last night in our Ops Centre tonight then 6 days off, hopefully get some modeling cracked! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 Thanks Cookenbacher - our posts crossed - so mask, glue to the fuselage and spray? The black inner not so important as it will be shut, although I did on my 1/48 F4D, but by hand, which I masked then gently cut around the rail with my stanley knife, painted then fixed after I had brush painted the model. I have an F5E on the bench with a masked glued on, so will be interesting to see the results when I get back to that! On another note I was awoken by the Queens birthday forming up over Stanway in Colchester earlier - always a great sight - shame no Harriers! Saints Phil - the first sheet is GR5 - will that do the job? I may go with the second, although more expensive has plenty of other options too! Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 My last few builds I've masked the canopy then glued it to the fuselage with just white glue - then sprayed. The white glue dries clear and doesn't fog the canopy. Microscale also makes a glue specifically for this, but it dries kind of tacky. I've tried both and prefer just plain white glue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabba Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 My last few builds I've masked the canopy then glued it to the fuselage with just white glue - then sprayed. The white glue dries clear and doesn't fog the canopy. Microscale also makes a glue specifically for this, but it dries kind of tacky. I've tried both and prefer just plain white glue. I normally use Kristal Klear (the Micro-scale stuff) to glue my canopies onto a model, and use water on a cotton bud to remove the surplus. I will sometimes use this method when filling some joints especially weapon pylons and places where it is difficult to get wet and dry into. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabba Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 (edited) Oh, regarding the canopy rails: my humble suggestion is to try and mask them if you're going to spray it. My first few builds I painted the rails by hand thinking that masking was too much work, but was pleasantly surprised how easy masking is when I tried it. Just make sure you have some thin strips for the edges and then fill in the rest. Either way, sure it will look great. I normally use some thin strip low tact masking tape that you can but commercially and then fill in the rest with PVA glue. It depends on how I am going to mount the canopy whether I paint it first before fitting to the model or the other way around. Sorry to mention, some good work going on with the model, keep it how every experience will help with future builds. Edited June 14, 2014 by Jabba 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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