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1/48 Dornier 17E or why did I ever start.


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This is my first build thread on Britmodeller and I will apologise in advance if the images don't show.

This is not the first Do 17E from Hobbycraft I have built. The first was a failure, sloping engines, no undercarriage and paint that peeled. The second never got finished. I tried using vacuum canopies from Squadron. The resulting mess ended up being dumped in the bin.

This is the third attempt and was started before I joined Britmodeller. The photos show progress to date.

The fuselage has been straightened to cure the banana shape of the kit. There is an 8 swg steel spine fitted into my model making absolutely sure the fuselage is straight and in the photos you can see the 10 swg spar I fitted to make sure the wings are straight. (It's also a good way to straighten the droop on the Revell Ta 154)

The later version of the kit had instructions stating the nacelles should be mounted 1" in from the root to the inner face of the nacelle. The early versions of the kit had no such instruction and left it to the builder. The nacelles are moulded to suit the 1" measurement. Unfortunately it's wrong. The instruction's figure should be 0.81", or 29.5mm to the nacelle centre line. The problem is that when nacelles are moved, they no longer fit and when the do fit on the wing the engines have a down thrust of 10°.

The pictures therefore show the cutting and filling needed to get the nacelles to look something like. I have also cut out the lower wing to make a wheel well. The interior of the wells are fictitious.When they were done I did not have any images or drawings to show what it should be like. They were a pain to do so I am leaving them alone.

The front fuselage was cut off so the I could get to the interior.

I originally cut the front away, planning to use the Squadron vacuum ones. Again I found them ill fitting and too difficult. It is easier to cut and sand the kit ones to shape.

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Image showing upper fuselage with 6 swg wing straightener.

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Image showing nacelles fitted before the wing was cut out. At top is the front of the upper fuselage after being cut from the kit part.

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After the cut outs and the fictitious nacelle interior

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Image showing correct tail

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The kit nose glazing fitted ready for interior. Bottom was sanded down and new windows polished in.

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The show the kit canopy with the side window cut out and new clear parts glued in. These are needed because the kit canopy doesn't have enough depth. Once its dried I will put the framing back.

That's it so far.

Other kit on build is a Revell 1/32 Me 262B. This is another previous failure. This time the fuselage has had a 5mm insert fitted in the bottom of the fuselage and wing centre section which seems manages to put everything back in line.

Edited by Icabod
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  • 3 weeks later...

That's pretty impressive progress with what is not the greatest kit ever produced. I look forward to seeing more.

Martin

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  • 2 years later...

The Model was confined to the cupboard of shame for the last year or so. I have only now started to try to clear the cupboard as I cannot bring myself to look at it any longer. I am determined to finish its contents.

This is what the model looks like now, partially primed in RLM65 to sort out the blemishes from the considerable filling and sanding around the engine nacelles and the nose section to suit the modified canopy. Sanding and finishing is currently the work in progress.

Some of the glazing has been sanded smooth and the correct window frames made. The interior was started with a lot of detail but I stopped short of completing it partly through getting a bit fed up with it and secondly I found very little can actually be seen despite the glazed nose. The view through the canopy is also very restricted.

Straightening the well known banana shape of the fuselage wast the easiest fix as I have since found the Hobbycraft engine nacelles are the wrong shape. They should be a lot straighter and wider at the rear. The nacelle taper meant the wheel well interior is therefore wrong and I had to reconstruct the design of the wheel well doors to fit the taper. I have another one on build and I have modified the nacelles to the correct shape but it will need new doors constructed from scratch.

I have yet to build the M/P version and a better attempt at the E/F but that will be after I have finished the Revell 1/32 Me262B improvements which was started before Trumpeter brought out theirs.

As usual any comment or criticisms are welcome.

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The masking tape has been on for a minimum of 2 years and I too suspect it may leave some adhesive but alcohol should shift it. The longest I had was on my Revell 1/32 Bf110C I converted to a G. It was on for over 3 and it cleared Ok with alcohol and that was masked with freezer sellotape (the dull kind). Thanks for looking.

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Do not give up, I felt like that yesterday with the 109. Then you look at it all and think not so bad after all. :winkgrin:

Lovely job on the Dornier, that will be impressive when it is finished. Also respect to posting up on the WIP I always think just doing that is a mile stone in its self

B

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  • 2 weeks later...

No, I will not give up although I thinl the standard is going to drop through sheer exhaustion of the project. Engines need severe altering as the kit relies on putting them where they fit. There is no indication on the wings for nacelle location at all and where the do 'fit' makes them far too outboard. When moved in they needed cutting and hacking a lot.

Painted now with Xtracolour Enamel RLM76 on the bottom and Lifecolor 61,62,63 on the top with coat of Kleer for protection. I am not sure about the Lifecolor green though. It looks a bit too 'Sage' for me. Photos were quick snaps with my Samsung S4 and the colours are pretty accurate with what the model looks like in real life.

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