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A BIG Rolls Royce


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Lower hose and finale...

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What I was after; plumb and square. Something you can't take for granted with a Pocher. The brace is just placed but it's dead nuts on center. That helps avoid the 'toy' look.

Satisfaction comes at a price but it's worth it:

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This is seriously excellent modelling workmanship. Do you get time to do anything else?.................and that exhaust! You do realise that you are treading on very thin ice!!

Silly remarks over. I have sent details to Roy about how to make the balsa wood seats for his Alfa. Do you want me to send you the details as well? Although they are for the Alfa, and you will be addressed as Roy, I am sure they will give you the main idea.

Larry.

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This is seriously excellent modelling workmanship. Do you get time to do anything else?.................and that exhaust! You do realise that you are treading on very thin ice!!

Silly remarks over. I have sent details to Roy about how to make the balsa wood seats for his Alfa. Do you want me to send you the details as well? Although they are for the Alfa, and you will be addressed as Roy, I am sure they will give you the main idea.

Larry.

Absolutely Larry, that is very kind of you to share. Especially with your excellent workmanship.

I am planning my own seats and strongly considering balsa and basswood.

Please PM the best way to receive info.

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Thank you kindly gents; welcome aboard!

I am currently doing the tedious work of sanding and truing large body panels. An update soon as a cautionary tale of what a three-decades old kit needs to be well dressed.

:blink:

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As I stated above, boring trimming and fitting of coachwork in progress so no exciting pictures to show just yet.

But I can tell you a bit of good news for me and any prospective Pocher builder.

Taking the advice of Roy (who has been an enormous help to me), I contacted Peter Doney of Pocherparts.com regarding replacement hood side panels. My very early Sedanca came with panels that have 4mm of the rear lower edges cut in a wedge. The later production kits have the correct straight lower edges. I searched all around the usual US suppliers to no avail before trying Peter.

Peter not only had them in stock and sent them immediately, but they just arrived here in the US today, a 7 day trip. And they are in perfect condition.

So thanks to Peter, I now have a reliable supplier for the next thing I botch up! :clap2:

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I just found this thread....note to self: when you want good tips, look to the experts in the subject! I thought I was doing ok on my Bentley, I now have to re-evaluate....

needless to say I will be looking back through this and other threads for hints and tips!

Ian

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I just found this thread....note to self: when you want good tips, look to the experts in the subject! I thought I was doing ok on my Bentley, I now have to re-evaluate....

needless to say I will be looking back through this and other threads for hints and tips!

Ian

You're doing more than 'ok' on the Bentley Ian. I've been all over your thread and posted the colour suggestion there. Impressive work you're doing on a kit that needs a lot of TLC.

Hints: the fender supports are spindly-wire would be better. The entire front suspension has weak attachment points-see what you think...

-And never accuse me of being an expert on anything except appreciating other peoples good work... :nono:

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Oh Lord! I feel like Wayne confronted by Alice Cooper! So unworthy! :winkgrin:

Seriously though... Excellent work throughout. It's wonderful to see someone 'work' through the challenges of creating the model your mind's eye envisioned. Lots of useful tips, and even your "adjudged as not good enough" solutions could be usefully applied. A true lesson in making things look right. Once I have my main PC off my modelling bench (following a stupid mistake on my part which blew the Graphics card and Hard Drive) I must return to my (now somehow "meagre") 12th scale Shelby GT500, re-inspired by your thread.

Many thanks for sharing SO much detail.

Kev

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Necessity is a THE Mother of Invention...

Here comes the body work. The first and most visible part of the model-it's got to be right or nothing that went before matters. Unfortunately being a Pocher and 3 decades old doesn't make that easy.

Seen here is the right hand side and center roof panel. It's a big floppy thing that Pocher has you join with 2 tapping screws into posts that don't line up with the holes in the roof edge.

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Having to assemble and remove these parts a thousand times for alignment and finish would not work- the screws are loose the second time you do that yielding a floppy mess. A brainstorm (rare for me) led to tapping the posts for 2mm threaded rod and nut- fastening them in place. A bit of CA on the threads plus a dab of epoxy for insurance and they are rock-solid studs which contribute enormously to strength and make disassembly child's play. I will do this wherever possible:

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Here is the inner side of the left panel. There are posts and holes for attaching the inner door panel and they all need pre-threading or tapping and some need redrilling into a better location for fit. Fun stuff:

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Here is the outer side of the same panel. You are advised by Koo to keep the door itself molded in place for fitting purposes. It comes out later for truing and finish after the body is placed correctly. The silver squiggles note some of the sink marks to be filled. The louver area has had a raised mold seam removed and made flat. All the edges of the roof and main panels have a thick raised edges (like excess plastic) which needs to be removed to get true and neat panels:

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Here is the inner door structure. All the screws for this need trimming or relocating. Note the broken edge at lower right-it came out of the box that way but I can't complain-the kit was in remarkable condition and completeness:

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The bottom of the floorboard with all the faux woodgrain and sinks sanded off. The rectangular hole will be covered over; the battery box is there but was accessed from above by removing the seat. Foolishly, this will get covered with real veneer and fasteners as 1:1. With the chassis inverted it's near impossible to view with all the running gear and linkages in the way. Shoot me:

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The topside. The slots around the pedals have been relieved for easier fit. Again, all these pieces must go on and off the chassis many times before final placement. The floorboard is very sturdy but does not rest on the chassis rails. It is screwed to the body lower edges. The body is what gets screwed to the chassis' sides. I'm not nuts about that for strength but will cross that bridge in a while:

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For those following, I have been working steadily on the above parts. But I'm not satisfied with Pocher (and Koo's) assembly method and sequence.

I'm resisting the urge to re-engineer the whole process with some hacking and dicing or parts. If my testing reveals no improvement, I will go the conventional way.

Sorry, nothing pretty to show yet............. :weep:

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Finally a breakthrough...

After much head scratching, I realized that I had been positioning the floor incorrectly in relation to the cowl / firewall. Koo gives you no guidance other than the floor must contact the back of the firewall. I finally did that and it positioned the floor / body much better.

The body must be repositioned rearward about 3mm from Pocher's location. Doing that centers the wheels in the fenders. Now I have done that:

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The rear fender is not in place (couldn't mock it with anything) but by holding it shows correct tire placement and the height will come down. Remember, everything seen here is just placed in position except the front fender which is bolted. From grille, hood, cowl, body and trunk, everything fits within the chassis crossmembers. Within a millimeter or so it's all fine. Nothing hits or interferes:

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The hood now fits near perfectly front to back and does not hit the cowl:

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I can now proceed with mods to make things join and assemble better than Pocher (and Koo) suggests.

Nice to see most of the shootin' match hung together for a moment:

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Edited by Codger
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More costume rehearsal...

Here is the major geometry of the coach work in relation to the chassis and itself. Best I could do.

The rear wheel is nicely centered, something that always needs correcting on these. Grille, hood, body and trunk all play nicely together.

Overall, I'm pleased (and surprised!) with the stance and attitude with one reservation; I would like the rear ride height lower just a bit. But it is much improved over stock Pocher. I love the front. I can't de-arch the PE rear springs which are near horizontal now. Maybe I'm just nuts after looking at it 10,000 times.

Your opinions appreciated; OK to continue or should I used it for mortar practice??

Don't be shy...

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