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1/72 GMC CCKW-353 Gasoline Tank Truck


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Using some 2mm discs punched out of Bare Metal Foil "Chrome" I gave the mirrors a reflective surface:

P1060893_zpsc396d37c.jpg

BMF Chrome is not very mirror like but at least it is a nod in the right direction.

I was disappointed to find that now the doors were on my carefully crafted Jerry can no longer fitted:

P1060894_zps83910f8f.jpg

Even though the LHS does not have the stupid sticky out thing, with the door in place the fit was less than ideal:

P1060896_zps1078fa44.jpg

They will just have to join their mates on the tanker bed.

I mixed up some custom red and orange paint for the reflectors and painted it onto some of the same clear plastic I used for the screen:

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I used red 1.2mm ones for the rear bed:

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and orange 1.5mm ones for the front

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Oh yes, I have also glued on my infamous oil drum.

Now there is nowhere it hide, I have to get the wheels sorted next.

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The wheels are not in a happy place. The masking edge is quite ragged in places plus some paint bleed here and there:

P1060900_zpsed0e5fce.jpg

The only course is a hard slog of hand retouching.

The task is not helped by the tyre black paint which I had to add some cellulose thinners to get it to re-emulsify and is now quite hot and readily redissolves the yellow enamel.

After a few rounds I got them to this:

P1060901_zpsb49011fc.jpg

Not brilliant but perhaps with some weathering will be acceptable. They need another coat of Klear before weathering but I will leave that until tomorrow.

I started to install the Jerry cans, letting each one dry before securing the next. Then somehow the door mirror got bent:

P1060902_zps0373a67f.jpg

Still it did not break; the metal gods are kinder to me than the plastic gods, but now it is very fragile.

I applied more superglue and eased it back into position as well as finishing off the Jerry cans:

P1060903_zps91be0bde.jpg

I compared my new chain to the best stuff I had in storage:

P1060904_zpsc62da928.jpg

Quite a difference but I had an idea that I could use one of the big links as a bridge between the tow rope and the new chain.

That proved to be hopeless as the wire diameter was just too big so I joined them with some fine copper wire:

P1060905_zps51ce1afc.jpg

With that done I added some superglue and painted the join with anthracite:

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I was then able to drape and wrap the chain in a naturalistic way:

P1060907_zps19d01f35.jpg

I locked it in place with some diluted Gator glue. It should look all right when its dried.

I think I have now pretty much run out of jobs for tonight so its bye from me,

Nigel

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Possibly but I don't think its that far out. Of course the bars are overscale but there are limits. It is 0.2mm wire after all. This is what they should look like:

chasewater_12%20134.JPG

Of course if you used this diameter of wire.....I wash my hands! :D

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Thanks Igor, I think to scale the bars would be about 12mm in diameter, 0.2mm seemed reasonable (14.4mm) but then there is the solder and paint build up to take into account which makes them look quite a bit chunkier. I am happy with it anyway and thanks for the input.

Nigel

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Right folks, this is the final chapter of this build thread.

After a coat of Klear I did the weathering and glued together the rear wheels:

P1060911_zpsa0f720c7.jpg

To get them to fit I had to drill out every wheel:

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If you haven't already guessed I am leaving the roof off, this allowed me to glue the screen on at a slightly rakish angle which I like the look of:

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During wheel assembly I finally lost the mirror:

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But thanks to the near miraculous properties of my Gorilla glue it was easy to fix:

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All that was left now were a few final paint and varnish touch ups and I found some suitable number decals in the spares box for the hood / bonnet. I painted the seats, spare tyres and inside of the cabinet with matt varnish as they were too shiny for my tastes:

P1060917_zps44aee44c.jpg

I left the main wheels as they were as they look all right to me.

I think I can declare this little bunny as finished, time for an RFI. Link here.

Bye for now,

Nigel

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Some rabbit Nigel

But as finished as should be

well done mate

nice model, excellent build thread

most of us will have been along and learning as we went

Now for the 'lecktrickery for the helo?

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P1060916_zps774f7c04.jpg

We get so spoiled watching your builds, seeing the pictures, that we are convinced you are building a huge kit enabling you to do the detail that you do. This picture puts things into a shocking perception of just how small a kit this is and the size of the components that you are adding detail too. (Or you have hired Gigantes to make us more impressed with your abilities!) A most amazing build. Thank you.

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Outstanding work. I've enjoyed every post and look forward to seeing it take its place along side the flying bananna.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

I am most impressed by this build, I am presently constructing a 353 fuel tanker and finding inspiration in the build. I previously reworked a Diamond T tank transporter and created all the various cab controls. Rather than use Nigel's method ( which hadn't occurred to me) I used fine nickel silver wire and dipped the tip in PVA, once dry either another immersion or painting produced reasonable scale sized knobs. Pictures will follow when I can find them! For the wire tow rope I used button thread, again treated with dilute PVA to remove the hairy bits, and washed with silver and rust. The eyelet was created around a bar of something and a small piece of foil wrapped around the ends. Again I will find photos this week.

Rear view mirrors were made by punching disks of aluminium tape, which I had polished and stuck to my thinnest plastic sheet. I found the aluminium didn't stick well to the plastic and subsequently separated. No problem, I used .5mm carbon fibre rod and a blob of PVA and job done. I now have some acupuncture needles and these will produce more 'finger friendly' mirror supports - carbon fibre is quite brittle. Just made a pitot tube for my Sea Fury using acupuncture needle in a hypodermic needle - very effective.

Hope that helps those of you disinclined to reach for the soldering iron.

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One fantastic build! :goodjob: This is one thread I'll be keeping for the amount of detail and reference. I have the Hasegawa kit to build to put alongside a Sabre in Korea. I hope I can draw on enough of your work to produce an acceptable model.

Well done.

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Perhaps I should mention that I am using the Academy version/interpretation of the 'Deuce and a half' with an after market bowser rear. It is in the painting stage at present, unfortunately I didn't think to take photos during construction. I've certainly not undertaken the levels of detail Nigel has; trouble is, having seen his work, I might have to revisit some areas of mine! It is going to be set along side the Cuban Sea Fury I am building.

Edited by TeeELL
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Yes, it is quite a different version nevertheless, it is worth my while to view other variants on a theme. Now, without seeking to hijack this thread I shall post a couple of photos of my Diamond T 980 showing the rear view mirrors (created as previously mentioned) and the towing hawser - not too clear, I shall see what I can do later. OK, I have tried to put photos in but I need to look again at how to do it as I seem to give full access to my photo bucket!!

Door mirrors

Towing Hawser

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http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h142/TeeELL/Canal%20Forum%20Pics/DiamondT04.jpg

These are the mirrors

This was my first ever venture into modelling this type of military vehicle since my first efforts with the Airfix Matador et al back in the 60's. I therefor apologise for the rather rough quality of the finished item. That said, at normal viewing distances it isn't too bad.

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Dang it!! I followed the instructions - honest!! So now you have to click on the links to view the photos - best I try again :-(

DSCF4715.jpg

DiamondT04.jpg

Edited by TeeELL
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