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Atlantic Cousins: RAF GR.7A & USMC AV-8B+


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This is my very first Group Build! I originally intended to just do a 1/72 Hasegawa USMC AV-8B+ in the newer Gunship Grey scheme, but decided to add the new 1/72 Airfix GR.7/9 kit too, simply because I couldn't help myself when I saw it in the hobby shop - it really is a nice looking kit. I hope it's OK to show both builds in this topic, but I am perfectly willing to split it up if required by the Group Build rules.

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The plan is to use Wolfpak VMA-513 decals for the AV-8B+, and a combination of kit, AM, and home made decals to depict GR.7A ZG471 as it appeared in Operation Herrick in 2008. I purchased resin nozzles for each, as they were reasonably priced, and anything that eliminates 8 seams to fill is alright by me. I don't even remember buying the PE set, but here it is nonetheless. I don't have much experience with PE, so this will be another first.

Thanks to SaintsPhil and Mish for getting this all set up - really looking forward to it!

Edited by Cookenbacher
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Top choice of schemes and a nice pair of kits (stop sniggering at the back, I said kits!). For me, the Airfix kit just edges it in terms of overall detail OOB as the Hasegawa kit needs too much adding to it. Still, you'll enjoy building both!

Mark.

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Thanks for the encouragement everyone. I haven't built either of these kits before, so it's nice to know I have a fighting chance!

I always have grand plans for ordnance, and then run out of steam by the end of the build and just throw something on, so I've decided to do the under wing stuff first. Here's everything assembled after one filler/sanding pass.

First up, tanks, JDAM's and LITENING pod (both from Hasegawa weapons kits) for the AV-8. I added the laser trackers to the noses of the JDAM's to make GBU-54's, since that what seems to be equipped in most of the reference photos I've seen.

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Now the stores for the GR.7 - definitely a lot more variety than the USMC bird. Tanks, CRV-7, JRP, Paveway IV, and Sniper pod. I added some bits to the kit Paveways to make them look a bit more like IV's. The three Sniper pods from top to bottom are: the kit one, Kinetic/Skunk Models, and Hasegawa. I just wanted to see how they compare to one another - I'm thinking of using the Kinetic/Skunk one just to be different.

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That's all for now - thanks for looking!

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Thanks for the heads up Phil - I was wondering why the Hasegawa one had such a different shape. I had put it down to different manufacturers using their own dimensions, but now I think that the Hasegawa Sniper represents the one used by the USAF, while the other two represent the export model.

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Got a little bit more done on the GR.7 - goth the cockpit and forward fuselage together. I noticed in one of my reference pics that this aircraft carried TIALD and Paveway II's, so I've switched to those. Does anyone know if GR.7's used Sniper/Paveway IV? I searched around some and couldn't really come up with a definitive answer.

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Sorry the pics are so dark.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Catching up now - still plenty of seams to fill but this is how they stand:

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Everyone was right, the Hasegawa kit is good, but the Airfix kit is something special. I love that it comes with just about every option available: wheels up/down, 3 positions for the air break, flaps up/down, two pieces for the inlet doors on the side of each intake. It's all so well done, it makes me want to buy another just as a way to 'vote' for the kit. I'm an unrepentant wheels up builder, so I really appreciate that that option is fully supported in the Airfix kit. As you can see above, I had to do a bit of scratching close everything up on the AV-8B - I also had to build closed doors on the intakes for an in flight config. I will admit that I'm at the edge of my skills here, but I guess it's a good way to try and improve.

Thanks for looking and any advice is always appreciated.

Edited by Cookenbacher
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Thanks Procopius and Phil. You're have a point Phil, I figure they're called airplanes not groundplanes. I really have not figured a proper way to display them yet - for final pics I've just been setting them on white blocks with a white background, then they're just stuck in a closet shelf in the back room. I suppose it's not very civilized!

I've tried using those small camera tripods, as they do seem perfect for the task, and it's very clever how some folks have glued a nut in the belly of the model that matches the bolt on the stand. But, I can't bring myself to drill such a large hole on the bottom of the plane! My next plan is to start experimenting with clear acrylic rods as I've seen many do - that is probably the way to go.

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I've used the Acrylic rod approach, it works well for jets with traditional exhausts, not so well for harriers! One option you could use is to put the rod in the rear main gear bay, the small hole where the gear leg goes is perfect to fit a rod. Sorry that suggestion is a bit late for your AV8B, would have saved making a door!

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Thanks for your suggestions gentlemen! I have to admit that I had to look up what cavorite was, but I did know that when I found out that it would be funny - thanks Procopius, I had a good laugh, and I now know a little more about the work of H.G. Wells. See mom, this place IS educational.

I was thinking that for the Harriers, I could maybe use two rods and the jets would rest their wing roots on them.

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  • 2 weeks later...

They're almost ready for painting, and this 1/72 pilot is giving that a thumbs up.

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I'm not sure if I'm really ready for photo-etch, but it has been a good learning experience. Unfortunately, the pilot's thumbs up may have been a little premature as the PE HUD was too tall for the canopy, and didn't survive my poor attempts at adjusting it, so its been replaced with the boring kit one. All was not completely lost, as the Airfix surprisingly doesn't come with a clear piece for the HUD, so I was able to recycle the 'glass' from the PE one.

The nozzles in the background are for the GR7, and have been brush painted with Model Master Metalizers using the technique described here:

http://www.essmc.org.au/Natural_Metal_Finish.html

It works exactly how the author describes despite Metalizers being labeled 'For Airbrush Use Only'. I'll post a better pic of them soon.

The heat shields have some metal foil on them as an experiment to see if I can actually use metal foil - nothing like biting off more than you can chew!

Thanks for looking.

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Thanks Phil. I used Model Master buffing titanium on the front nozzles and buffing burnt metal on the rear, but the titanium turned out darker than the burnt metal. So I flipped it with a second coat and now they're both a mix of titanium and burnt metal! I think I'm going to apply a lighter shade on top of the front ones today. The technique works exactly how the article says it does - really fun and easy.

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Thanks Jabba - I have to say I'm really enjoying seeing your GR3 come together, it's obvious that you're better with with putty/seams that I am - any tips?

I wish I knew where the pilot came from - I raided my stash for pilots some time ago and this guy seemed perfect for a 'night' Harrier since he has night vision goggles attached to his helmet. I don't think he's from the Hasegawa kit though.

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The nozzles in the background are for the GR7, and have been brush painted with Model Master Metalizers using the technique described here:

http://www.essmc.org.au/Natural_Metal_Finish.html

It works exactly how the author describes despite Metalizers being labeled 'For Airbrush Use Only'.

Interesting... Very interesting. Thanks for the link. Your builds are looking great :)

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You probably are aware that the Harrier HUD has 2 separate bits of glass in the combiner. The upper/further forward one is about half the size of the lower.

IIRC, the common kit maker approach is to provide a big block of clear styrene representing both bits of glass, the gap between them and the frame to which they are mounted. If you're going to get all fancy and use PE for the frame then you want 2 bits of acetate for the glass (probably still over scale thickness!!) and a little blob of something clear (Future/PVA) beneath them for the main lens. You'll also want to book a visit to the optician. If you are completely bonkersly clever (e.g. Jake Eaton/Nick Greenall et al) you'll also hand paint the HUD image in clear green...

Kirk

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