S5 modeller Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 I have used alclad loads of times, and it is indeed prethinned for airbrushes. I saw a video on youtube of a bloke mixing the colour in his cup by loosening the airbrush nozzle. This caused the air to bubble up in the cup and mix the paint. Perhapse if your nozzle seal is leaking air, this could maybe cause the paint foam up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 Whenever I start spraying I always put a drop or two of thinner (in this case cellulose) in the airbrush cup to make sure everything is working before adding the paint. Then I hold a tissue over the nozzle to deliberately make air bubble back into the cup to mix it in with the paint. This accounts for some of the foam plus some of it is from shaking the paint bottle (which it instructs to do on the label). It not really a problem, I was just making an observation that this paint (like Vallejo acrylics) forms a stable foam which stays on the airbrush cup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Why am I thinking that this build will be neither quick or easy? Martin Hahaha !... Yeah , if thoughts were playing cards SNAP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Looking good Nige. For me it is screaming to be whiffed as an RAF machine interesting little beast 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 He really wants to do a reverse squiggle finish. I'm sure he could use some spaghetti to mask off the squiggles, let us know how you get on with that Nigel. Duncan B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 Looking good Nige. For me it is screaming to be whiffed as an RAF machine interesting little beast Rob, is that because it looks a bit like a Vulcan by any chance?? All be it a tiddler. He really wants to do a reverse squiggle finish. Do I? I am quite happy ploughing on with my winter / splinter camouflage scheme. I masked up for the yellow areas: I soon got that applied using Revell matt 15 enamel: While that was hardening up I busied myself with a few side jobs like thinking about the decals. Somehow one of the wing crosses has got badly scratched: While on the decal sheet apart from the yellow engine triangles the box art guide offers no instruction on the stencil placement. I know the red rings go on the engines and most of the others somewhere on the control surfaces so it will be a case of a bit of semi-educated guesswork and some further research. Anyway I had a look in the spares box for a replacement for the crosses. My little Horten kit came to the rescue again with some identical alternatives. I also selected some interesting replacement swastikas from the excellent Xtradecal 1/72nd sheet I also masked up the undercarriage doors ready for some RLM 76 by which time I deemed the yellow to be dry enough to unmask: Apart from the DI loop falling off (I found it on the floor), all was good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bangle Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 I don't think that Alclad's primer is meant to be thinned, it is supposed to be sprayed straight from the bottle. Duncan B That's true, although I have had a bottle of Alclad that thickened up on me. I didn't think a correctly functioning and operated airbrush should end up with that amount of foam in the cup at the end of a spray session. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 That's true, although I have had a bottle of Alclad that thickened up on me. I didn't think a correctly functioning and operated airbrush should end up with that amount of foam in the cup at the end of a spray session. I would agree, when I've sprayed Alclad's primer in the past I've never got that foam either. It would suggest to me that air is being forced back into the paint cup and Nigel said he does that intentionally at the start of his spray sessions, it's this odd behaviour that has us all coming back to see what madness he'll come up with next! Duncan B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Nigel, will you be altering the colours to something similar to the late war colours actually seen or didn't they have any issues in this alternate Luft'46 world? Duncan B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Yes indeed nigel that is exactly why I wanted to whiff it. It looks very similar to one of the early proposed designs for the Vulcan which looked a bit more like a Javelin and this mixed together. I saw this and thought it would look good in nuclear white scheme It will also look very cool in German colours. I think the Germans must have the most elaborate camos I have seen. Cheers Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 Nigel, will you be altering the colours to something similar to the late war colours actually seen or didn't they have any issues in this alternate Luft'46 world? Duncan B I have had a look at my RLM colours and I think I will go completely mad and swap the suggested RLM83 for RLM82 as its a more attractive looking and contrasting green but that is about it. That means that the splinter colours will be RLM81 and 82 on the white background. Well I think it will look nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 I have has a look at my RLM colours and I think I will go completely mad and swap the suggested RLM83 for RLM82 as its a more attractive looking and contrasting green but that is about it. That means that the splinter colours will be RLM81 and 82 on the white background. Well I think it will look nice. RLM76 had turned a "Sky" colour by the end of the war (for whatever reason), I was wondering if you'd go with standard RLM76 or go for the "Sky" colour? Duncan B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOCKNEY Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Yes indeed nigel that is exactly why I wanted to whiff it. It looks very similar to one of the early proposed designs for the Vulcan which looked a bit more like a Javelin and this mixed together. I saw this and thought it would look good in nuclear white scheme It will also look very cool in German colours. I think the Germans must have the most elaborate camos I have seen. Cheers Rob You can trace that back to the WW1 lozenge patterns ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 RLM76 had turned a "Sky" colour by the end of the war (for whatever reason), I was wondering if you'd go with standard RLM76 or go for the "Sky" colour? Duncan B I have just gone for the standard Vallejo RLM76 which is quite a grey / blue. I know you don't like the Vallejo RLM colours but I think it looks alright. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeusa Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 I have has a look at my RLM colours and I think I will go completely mad and swap the suggested RLM83 for RLM82 as its a more attractive looking and contrasting green but that is about it. That means that the splinter colours will be RLM81 and 82 on the white background. Well I think it will look nice. Well let's not get too crazy here and go all nuts. Are you sure you want to be this radical? I mean can you afford to do the non-historical, incorrect color switch on a never built aircrat that only existed on paper? Will you not anger the accuracy gadflies of paint purity? Will the world stop on its rotational axis and begin spinning backwards? Will this cause world anarchy to reign supreme? (Which brings up a truly phiolosophical question of can anarchy ever reign?) If the economies of the world suffer from sever recession on Monday, we will all know the cause! Sometimes Nigel, you go to far!! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 Yep, modelling anarchist, that's me that is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 Something's Gotha Give - Day 13 I seem to have been applying masking all day, first for the RLM76 on the underside and undecarriage doors: A tingle in my Spidey sense informed me that this was going to be full of bits so I filtered it first with this result: What naughty paint. After that things went well with this result: When that had hardened up I spent about two hours masking for the RLM82: Here is that applied: I will go and get some shopping while that dries. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeusa Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 I am glad your paint issues have subsided. This strange thing you are so fond of called "airbrushing" (when not using language that Mike and Dave would not approve, I call it "black Devil art") is going to be the death of me. It is fighting me at every turn on the F-104 build. Does it ever get easier or will it forever be each time I spray a sigh of relief is exuded if nothing goes wrong? I'm sure Hendie feels my pain!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 It'll get easier George, honest. Nice job so far Nigel but why did you have to mask for the first top colour? i usually just paint the areas of the first camp colour roughly, making sure I cover the area with enough to overlap. I then mask along the edge of the first colour for the second one. maybe I missed something! DB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 I am not sure I understand your query, I am trying to exicute this scheme with a white background so I have to mask for each top colour:Does it make sense now? When unmasking the green I encountered a few problems with the RLM76 peeling: Blooming acrylics, I am sure enamels would not have done that. Here is the overall result: A bit of bleed and other peeling here and there, much retouching will be required; bother. I then spent another couple of hours masking for the RLM81: I have now used up all my 10 and 18mm Tamiya tape. This is how it looked after spraying: Unmasked: Its a bit rough isn't it? This great tongue of paint peeled off and look at the bleed: I am a bit fed up with it TBH: Any ideas as to what to do? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Don't use Vallejo paints is the short answer. They are far too soft and will fall off the model at any opportunity. Not all acrylics are the same, Gunze Mr Color and Mr Hobby are as tough as nails once dried and can be handled without any problems. Tamiya are quite tough too but don't have the colour range that Gunze have and I find the pigments can be quite course. Not what you want to hear I guess as you already have those paints. I'd go for a freehand paint scheme to avoid the masking issues you are having. DB 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 I've had similar experiences with Vallejo paints in the past unfortunately. I always end up applying a coat of gloss after each colour to try and seal the paint. However I try and avoid Vallejo whenever possible these days. Karl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 ooo that's not nice at all, I have never tried Vallejo but can say both the Tamiya and Gunze Hr Hobby acrylics are awesome. I used Mr Hobby for the "Splinter Mig", that was a masking nightmare and didn't have any issues at all. It almost looks like the paint may have been a little bit thick? To fix it.....maybe a very light rubdown +600 (prob 1000 or better) grit W&D, that will give the new paint something to bit on though/plus you'll lose all the bad paint as well. Then re-spray (yeah I know) with very very thinned light coats of the two top colours.....sort of building up the colours with less uniformity a slightly weathered look. Or go the opposite and completely stripe back and start with the RLM81/82 with the white on top as a winter mask? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeusa Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 See post above #168, same sentiments. I have never really like the way acrylics behave as far as coverage goes and their ability to remain on what you are painting/spraying. That is why I almost always try to use enamels; mainly Humbrol and Testors/Model Master. I really do not see a way to fix the paint other than to sand, retape and recoat. I do not think you will have to entirely remove it, but it will have to be sanded down and redone. Sorry. If you try to retouch that much paint, it will look sketchy at best, horrible at worst. I guess you could concoct the scenario that due to the lateness in the war, and the limitations of resources for the Nazis, school children were drafted to work in the factories and this is their best result at finger painting a camo scheme on an aircraft. What do you think? Airbrush . . . Black art . . . some sort of blood/animal sacrifice must not have been made timely and the demons that rule the pnuematic dimension were unpleased. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 My woes were not over yet, I tried retouching the peeled RLM76 and yet more paint came off: Well Nigey wasn't going to let some poxy acrylic paint beat him, strangely I didn't fancy redoing it all so I sacrificed a small woodland animal, dubbed on some wode, muttered a few secret incantations to the plastic gods and went old school. I got out my finest brush and repainted all the edges free hand: Its not perfect and can still be improved in a few areas but I am quite pleased with that. Time for bed. Night, Nigel 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now