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Apollo Crawler at 1/72 scale


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Dressmaking pins.

Cut to length.

Dab of glue under the head.

That end goes on the inside of the truck?

Or maybe on the outside to give a finished look?

Put into place using a magnet?

Just a series of quick thoughts of

how I'd probably do it.

Hope it helps, Pete

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I really try and avoid kits with individual links and not a big fan of link and length either but sounds like you are on the right track (oops).

Some of the ones I have read find a length of wire that fits, feed it through and cut it off then move to the next. A drop of superglue is usually enough to secure it. At least, that is what they say.

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And suddely all my track-link woes pale into utter insignificance......I'd definitely go for metal pins, if these tracks require any where near as much fiddling as L&L, styrene won't stay the course. :coolio:

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Hey Rich,

I think it's not as complicated as it seems, but for better understanding some questions. gruebel.gif
From your image, I have estimated the diameter of the pin to about 0.8 mm. Is that right, or how big is the diameter, or how big is the diameter of your pin lugs, certainly a bit bigger, right? :coolio:

IMG_0849_zpsmvnwcj6l.jpg

In the real thing each pin lug has a 3.308 inch diameter hole for pin placement, which corresponds 1,2 mm in 1:72.

For this diameter, a 0.8 mm pin would fit quite well and would have enough clearance too. icon_thumb.gif

Tell me your dimensions and then let's talk about possible solutions. I think both Steel pins and Styrene pins might be possible. n060.gif

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Hi Rich, when I assemble individual tracks if I am using wire as my pivot pin I bent the end corners at a 90 degree on each side and place a very little amount of CA to secure it in place. it allows the track to bend without locking it in place. if you decide for the straight pin method modify a jewelers screwdriver as a pushing tool and place a very small amount of CA at the outboard ends to secure the pins. hoe this helps.

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Thanks All for the options about the pins.

Pete: Your idea is the simplest so far. The dress pin I used could be thicker, but I do think this idea gives a nice clean look. I will have to push the pins through by hand tho, or a modified screwdriver. To many little hangups to use a magnet.

IMG_0884_zpsodru1wpt.jpg

Philip, Thanks, as you can see, once I have a pin in place I have no room to use any sort of cutting tool. I have to trim the pins before install.

Sergeant, It didn't take long to figure out that a styrene rod at 1mm is to soft to work for this. Some sort of metal rod is the way I believe.

Manfred: The pin holes are 1mm . the music wire in the photo is 1mm. This works out great, altho I don't want to make 500 pins out of this wire. The 1mm music wire has enough clearance to allow all to move freely, it's just difficult to work with. I do like Pete's idea with the dress pins. Just one option tho.

Sandman: I am leaning more to the direction of a dress pin. However I will need to locate pins with smaller heads and thicker shafts than the ones I have around the house. The thin shaft pins I have make the track links a little on the sloppy side, so a little thicker.

Thanks all, I still have a ways to go before I get to the Trucks, so I have some time to work on this solution.

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What about using really small diameter thin walled metal (or even styrene) tube in conjunction with your pins.....A punch or similar could be used to flare out one end of the tube which could then be tided up and filled to form the head on one side (optonally you could just glue on an end-cap).....Feed your tube through the link then insert the pin into the tube from the opposite side & Bob's your mothers brother! :coolio:

Or a really small nut & bolt.....I'm sure model car makers use such things? :hmmm:

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Thanks All,

The first stairway is installed! This is a small attempt at first. To install this little stairway was very stressful. I had to custom fit the handrail riser and custom cut the handrails to fit between the installed walkways. trying to do this while the walkways are hanging there and not messing any previous work already accomplished was very tricky. It took about 1.5 hours to get all just right for fitting.

IMG_0886_zpswbw9yif6.jpg

IMG_0885%202_zps45ente4m.jpg

Around the corner and the next set of walkways and stairways are next. Be back shortly. Thanks All.

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Sergeant, As you Brits say, the "fiddly bits" are a pain in the ...small stairway, all day build.

Noeyedears, Thanks. The walkways are starting to tie this thing together.

Phildagreek, THANKS!

Gordon, Hey, those two little cylinders ARE spotlights. You can go back to an earlier post and see the lights working. I have yet to turn the lights on with the new walkways installed. I'll build another section of walkways, and then take a photo or two with the lights on. Just for you my man! Thanks.

Lancaster, The mesh is a little tricky to work with. I have a dedicated pair of scissors to cut the mesh with because the mesh will dull the scissors. I have to sharpen them after each walkway. And stainless doesn't like being shaped. More fiddly bits.

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Gordon, Hey, those two little cylinders ARE spotlights. You can go back to an earlier post and see the lights working. I have yet to turn the lights on with the new walkways installed. I'll build another section of walkways, and then take a photo or two with the lights on. Just for you my man! Thanks.

Thanks, Rich! I did think of looking back to find the spotlights but we're approaching 600 posts and I don't have a day to spare!

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Hey Guys, and Gordon,

The second stairway is installed. I took some photos with the lighting on.

IMG_0890_zps87t63qye.jpg

IMG_0889_zps1ztiezjz.jpg

IMG_0890_zps87t63qye.jpg

More stairways to come. Thanks All.

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Not the best photos Manfred. I had the room dark and the camera to close to the model. I'll try again later, Thanks.

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