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Eduard 1/72 Mig-15


Tomoshenko

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  • 2 weeks later...

Have at last been able to get round to this. Sorry for the quality, must sort out the lighting and quality. Still got other stuff on the go but couldn't wait to get a Mig back on the bench after all the years spent in modelling exile (why did I wait so long? :banghead:). Started off by familiarising myself with the parts and assembling the cockpit. This is a number of firsts for me - it’s my first WIP, and working with photo-etch.

MigPE1_zpsf78a3e05.jpg

MigPE2_zps70642779.jpg

It is very delicate stuff. I will have to practice my folding techniques, but the foot restraints turned out okay. Here they are in place:

MigC1_zps6aedcef9.jpg

I can see why photo-etch is so popular as it would be extremely difficult to scratch build (well for me) to this standard. I've also taken the plunge and decided to try out Alclad. I get paid shortly so thought sod it and invested in a number of shades and some micromesh.

I thought I’d experiment on the exterior of the cockpit side panels. The instructions state silver and not much of them will be seen, so it wouldn’t be too difficult to put right if I muck up. First I gave them a light coat of primer and then a coat of Humbrol rattle can gloss black.

MigSPB_zps71517826.jpg

As you can see despite my efforts there isn’t an even sheen. I flatted it back with some wet and dry and some micromesh. Then I took a deep breath and indulged in some Alclad Aluminium.

MigSPA_zpsa41d5724.jpg

My word... Aside from it being smelly it was clear instantly why modellers are attracted to it. It gives a lovely finish, very fine grain. I was impressed and am an instant convert. A small step by your Alclad veteran's standard, but a big leap for me. Mind you I know when I come to spray the aircraft, it will be less forgiving. The panel lines and detailing are very fine and won't stand up to layer after layer of Humbrol gloss black and industrial sanding. More time spent on prep will be necessary methinks. Incidentally, apart from more control, is it better to use an airbrush or a rattle can for the gloss black? I am inclined to favour an airbrush because it gives a finer spray, well that’s what appears. Please advise someone.

Migbits2_zps1c9ddd59.jpg

Here are some of the other bits primed and then given a coat of Humbrol 127 (I know it may not be the correct shade but have given up trying to isolate the definitive shade of grey. Greys in general for that matter as there seems to be 50+ blinkin’ shades of grey, none of the conversion tables correlate with each, and looking at charts of FS numbers reminds me of logarithm tables and sends my eyes googly). Anyway it looks right to me.
The exhaust shows the same uneven sheen, but that will be painted gunmetal and not much of it will be seen. Next up will be painting the cockpit details, a light wash, then on with the rest of the photo-etch (most of it is pre-painted).

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Tomoshenko - w/r/t spraying the primer, I used a single-action airbrush and Alclad's own microfiller/primer with very satisfactory results. I've also used, on some wheels and gear legs on the sprue, Tamiya fine surface primer from a rattlecan, rubbed down with micromesh, and it came out okay too.

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I must say that Alclad has turned out lovely Tomoshenko and the kit looks a great choice. Watching with interest as I've never seen one of these Eduard kits built.

All the best,

Graham

Edited by Nobby57
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I would go with an airbrush, it gives a finer spray, and is easier to control

although, they can be temperamental--ask me how I know...

Thought so. Thanks.

Tomoshenko - w/r/t spraying the primer, I used a single-action airbrush and Alclad's own microfiller/primer with very satisfactory results. I've also used, on some wheels and gear legs on the sprue, Tamiya fine surface primer from a rattlecan, rubbed down with micromesh, and it came out okay too.

I have both. Am trying out the Alclad primer at the moment it looks good.

Thanks for the comments folk. Progress has been slow, in the main because I’ve been using PE for the first time and it has been baby steps all the way, a bit here a bit there. Patience, patience and more patience is the order of the day.

MigCockpitBits2_zpsfb141684.jpg?t=139932

I applied a wash, highlighted the panel details and began PE assembly. It's been a long time since I folded sheet metal. The various gauges of steel and aluminium I’m (was) familiar with are way way thicker than this stuff. My PE tools at hand (sharp knife, glass and tweezers) are rudimentary, but pass muster for these folds. They’d struggle with box sections and the like though.

MigCockbitBits1_zps109b17c6.jpg?t=139931eeee+

I must confess that I was dreading this job at first, but found it somewhat therapeutic and almost enjoyable. Worryingly I found satisfaction folding fiddly metal bits 1mm x 2mm, and the sight of an empty PE fret. I don’t know if I’m spending too much time in the pub or not enough...

MigSeat_zps444dfd98.jpg?t=1399319302

MigCockpitBits_zpscace3378.jpg

I made a few errors. I was a little heavy handed clasping the PE and mashed some of the raised detail in one instance, one the plates is not aligned properly due to the Planck time bonding properties of superglue despite 10 – 20 seconds on the label, and I initially glued the seat at the wrong angle. That has been corrected. Also I’m sure there is debate vis-à-vis pre-painted, unpainted PE. The paint tends to crack no matter how careful. Anyway, not perfect, but the finished pit of which I’m pleased with.

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MigCockpit2_zps9538eba0.jpg?t=1399318890

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MigCockpit3_zps809e8d80.jpg?t=1399237660

I intend to use drop tanks. I’ve read a number of posts about the Migs and it seems that they often used “slipper tanks”. I’m putting my tinfoil hat on and confess shameful ignorance as to what a slipper tank looks like. Is it the one that looks like a conformal tank? Advice welcome.

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I intend to use drop tanks. I’ve read a number of posts about the Migs and it seems that they often used “slipper tanks”. I’m putting my tinfoil hat on and confess shameful ignorance as to what a slipper tank looks like. Is it the one that looks like a conformal tank? Advice welcome.

Slipper tanks (parts E9, E10 on Eduard kit):

PTB-260.jpg

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Thanks for the advice Sean and Panoz. I suspected they were the correct ones.

Justin, thanks for your compliment, although your build is coming along nicely, and to be fair, the Eduard pit is far more detailed than the Hobby Boss, so even the most adept scratchbuilder tooled up with a Fantastic Voyage shrinking machine would have their work cut out bettering the Eduard without aftermarket stuff.

I have been experimenting a little this evening by trying to scribe some tyre treads. I rigged up a jig which was a somewhat Heath Robinson affair using an old bike chain link extractor and a sewing machine needle clamped in a crocodile clip, and then clamped to the table. It looks a little like a record player stylus, and if the tyre could be "played" one would probably hear much cussing amid the crackle.

WheelScribe1_zpsb0689251.jpg

WheelScribe2_zps738472d8.jpg

I had to turn the wheel using a thin wooden stick with a piece of rubber stuck on the end

WheelScribe_zps6c1d7336.jpg

Tyre_zpse8753d89.jpg?t=1399322012

A partial success. You can't see the lines very well in the picture, but there are some fine scribes that hopefully will add some texture to the tyre. Nowhere near as good as some of the work I've seen on this forum, but I don't want to get bogged down with tyre treads on this build, so it is a technique and process I will improve and refine in future builds. Now back to slipper tanks and wings.

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LOL at your posts.

Procopius - I will have to make more offerings to the tyre tread scriber gods, the lines are so shallow and fine I feel paint will disguise them completely. As for the clip, it opens with one of my favourite ST episodes. Let's hope no ETs abduct me and plonk me on a desert world to fight a hostile alien over tyre treads!

Cookenbacher and Justin - I call it the Acme Tomoshenko tyre scriber prototype (patent pending). A number of improvements (lack of pressure on the needle as stated above) and test runs are necessary before production of the MK1, but it was a pleasant indulgence and a useful experience.

Mark - Not wishing to contradict you sir, but I don't think those are the correct slipper tanks for the Mig, check out Panoz's post. PS when you fire the guns does the recoil hurt your ankle?

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Brews,

I don't I'm afraid. Can't comment on the shape, but by all accounts it is a good kit. I suspect (and I stand to be corrected) that the panel lines and various other details are finer on the Eduard; but the airbrakes are moulded closed which I find a little disappointing as I like to have them open. You either have to buy aftermarket stuff or scratch build.

I built the Airfix old tool way back in the late 70s / early 80s. I was overjoyed at successfully scratchbuilding a piece of black card inside the nose so you couldn't see all the way through into the cockpit!

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  • 2 weeks later...

After other distractions and a few days away walking in Scotland, I can now get back to modelling and hopefully pick up some momentum. A brief update as to where I’m at.
Prior to gluing the wings together I added a little extra detail to mimic hydraulic cables. Not 100% accurate but it adds add a little more depth.

Wheelbay_zps341d63f5.jpg?t=1400614031

I also added a little to the undercarriage. There are also a couple of fiddly etch spigot wing nut type things to add.

Wheelbay2_zpseb275e54.jpg

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Here they are completed and given a wash.

Wheelbay3_zps2c526b9f.jpg

I then turned my attention to the slipper tanks and exhaust. Here is one section sprayed with Humbrol metalcote gunmetal. Looks fine but sadly will only be seen via Maglite, and magnifying glass in the hands of an extremely inquisitive person.

Exhaustfan_zpsec183818.jpg?t=1400615546

After much faffing around trying (in vain) to replicate a seamless exhaust I gave it a coat of 30 year old Humbrol gloss black, and the tanks in Humbrol French blue. They’re probably more appropriate for a 1930’s Bugatti as opposed to a Mig, but I wanted these to be slightly lighter and have a different shade than the rest of the aircraft.

Slippertanks_zps8c516a9a.jpg

I applied Alclad Aluminium, no problems with the exhaust and the other tank, and then this…aarrgh. The air was turned French blue!

Slippercraze_zpsf2efcfac.jpg?t=140061291

I’d left the paint to dry for about four days, but clearly this is not long enough. Not to be outwitted by plastic or paint, I took some inspiration from Robert the Bruce and his arachnid companion staring at me from my last £20 Scottish bank note – Scottish readers will need no explanation of this, but for those unfamiliar: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_the_Bruce - and stripped it back to the primer and recoated the blue.

Slipperprimed_zpse82c5b0e.jpg?t=14006129

Here they are alongside the exhaust. I will have to apply another coat of Alclad because it is too blue at the moment, and the other tank needs another coat of blue plus there is a little splutter that needs sanding back, but I’d had enough of blinkin’ blue slipper tanks for the day. The proverbial 5 minute job eh – just prime and paint a couple of drop tanks, what could possibly go wrong???
However, I do like the different shades made possible using different coloured undercoat. So will use this technique again.

Slippertanks1_zps4f531e2e.jpg

Another lesson learned, in fact I should have remembered the fecundity of lacquers when mixing with enamels, they’re not a sociable lot. There wasn’t a problem (yet, as I said it needs another coat of Alclad) with the other tank or with the 30 year old gloss black. It is a bit hit and miss though, the tanks cut you a lot of slack in regards stripping back and sanding etc. but the wings and fuselage with its ensuring fine detail won’t. I won’t risk it so will seal the enamel with Klear next time, or does anyone have any advice or a better approach?
Now I can concentrate on closing up the fuselage and gluing wings on etc. proper modelling at last.

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