Neal Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 Nothing worthy of a picture, and not a lot worth of text update. All the parts are off the sprues. The UC doors are split, to help handle and fit them I've added some evergreen strip (that I'll considerably shorten later) as hinges. I've removed the ECM lumps and bumps from the wing gloves as they're not shown on my reference pics (I think they're for the "D") All the filer has been sanded back and panel lines rescribed. The jet blast deflector has also been scribed to show the 6 panels it consists of. I need to get the intakes and canopy on and then it'll be ready to prime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio N Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Neal, the various ECM bumps were also used on the A but only after a certain serial number. The aircrafts initially used by VF-84 (that is pretty much most hi-vis ones) were earlier build and did not have the bumps. Other later A model Tomcats had them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 (edited) Neal, the various ECM bumps were also used on the A but only after a certain serial number. The aircrafts initially used by VF-84 (that is pretty much most hi-vis ones) were earlier build and did not have the bumps. Other later A model Tomcats had themWho needs reference material when there's Giorgio, great knowledge thanks. No real progress tonight but I've been perusing the work I've done over the weekend. There are a few joints that are a bit rough n ready so I'll have a to at cleaning them up and see if they look ok after a shot of primer. My models always seem to be plagued with poor finishing that us only made worse now I'm airbrushing and not slapping a thick coat of paint paint on with a brush to hide things, so I'm trying to make sure this one is spot on. I'm pretty pleased with the hinges but I'll give the ends a chamfer and thin them a little I think so they look less like some evergreen stuck to the UC doors. I've also started to construct a shuttle for the catapult (the white triangle on the right of the picture), I'll also make a hold back bar at some point. Thanks for looking. Edited April 22, 2014 by Neal 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 Just doing some non-modelling modelling aka research into USN fire engines and managed to dig this pair that were posted here a couple of years ago. Blimey: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234921434-1144-dragon-usn-carrier-tow-truck-and-fire-truck/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedman Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 I've removed the ECM lumps and bumps from the wing gloves as they're not shown on my reference pics (I think they're for the "D") Neal, the various ECM bumps were also used on the A but only after a certain serial number. The aircrafts initially used by VF-84 (that is pretty much most hi-vis ones) were earlier build and did not have the bumps. Other later A model Tomcats had them Just to add to what Giorgio said, the B model also carried them but the D did not. I'm looking forward to the final result on this one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted April 26, 2014 Author Share Posted April 26, 2014 Cheers Speedman. I took the tops off the unused (and badly shaped) dragon pheonix missiles to add some shape to the front on the engine fans. Although now I've put the intakes on you can barely see anything. The canopy's masked and attached and I'm just waiting for the glue to dry. The resin flap and slats are slightly warped, they should straighten out when they glued on but what would be the best way to sort them out befor painting?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 The resin flap and slats are slightly warped, they should straighten out when they glued on but what would be the best way to sort them out before painting?? Coming along nicely Neal and a neat resolution to fixing the undercarriage doors. As for straightening the resin parts, the way that I have tackled this in the past is to dip the part in a cup of boiling water for around 30-40s. Sometimes this in itself is enough to straighten the part but if it not then a little gentle pressure on a flat surface will do it. You may need to repeat it until you are satisfied with the result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted April 29, 2014 Author Share Posted April 29, 2014 John, thanks for another peice of guidance. I've had a gonat straightening them and they are better but not perfect, they're incredibly thin and I'm worried about snapping them. They'll pull straight when they're attached to the wings now I think. I came home to a still, dry and almost warm evening so I've warmed up my tamiya rattle can and primed everything, I should've had some longer sticks as I seem to have primed most of my hand as well. Quick inspection and it all looks ok, although I'm sure it'll show up some flaws when I have a closer look tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 (edited) A bit of tidying up on the tomcat and the seams on the wheel that became obvious after priming. I've painted and masked the undercarriage oleo's. Then whilst the tomcat is drying after a wash it's been a marathon masking session, a bit on the fire engine then a bit on the catapult. The most time consuming thing was the deck tie-down points, about 190 of them masked with maskol applied with the wrong end of a 1mm drill bit. Boring boring. Boring. Hopefully I can start airbrushing tomorrow. Perhaps the least interesting modelling pic ever. Edited May 4, 2014 by Neal 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Great job Neal, I have got this deck as well so I'll definitely be watching with interest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 (edited) Great job Neal, I have got this deck as well so I'll definitely be watching with interest.Cheers John. Initially I didn't think much of the deck, all the detail is in raised panel lines, and there was a point where I considered sanding them all off an having a go at re-scribing them. But after a coat of primer it looks ok and I think in a dark colour the raised lines won't be as prominent. I've spent quite a bit of time thinking about what colours to use on the deck, pictures seem to range from light grey to black on the non slip panels and from black to gun metal to copper on the catapult section. What I'm going for is gun metal in the centre of the catapult, preshade the panels black and then spray with NATO black. Not a very pleasant or productive evenings modelling; initially the needle on my airbrush wouldn't drawback so that took a bit of time to fix, then I was going to get my eye in by spraying the centre of catapult gun metal. The paint seemed to separate in the paint cup and it sprayed a very light colour almost aluminium whilst coughing and spluttering intermittently. I realised that it's the first time I've sprayed metallics and it may well be the last. I've over sprayed the area with dark grey and it looks ok now. I've used the same on the wing bags and the top of the fire engine. I've decided to play it safe and not do any more and give the airbrush a good clean before I do anything else. Edited May 6, 2014 by Neal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 (edited) Giving the airbrush a good clean seemed to fixing everything (at least temporarily). I wanted to get the white undersides painted but having looked at the wing bag joint I wasn't 100% happy so I had to get sanding again, also there looked to be flecks of silver in there. Once that was completely I gave them another cloat of dark grey, I've used the same colour for some light preshading. Whilst that was drying I carried on with the deck, painting the edges of the deck plates black. The centre section of the catapult actually came out ok in the end. The outer flat parts of the catapult I've painted German grey but this was a old pot and it's clogged up the airbrush so that's in bits again for an overnight soak in thinners. I really like the finish an airbrush gives, but brushes are a lot simpler! Some of the preshading's a bit shakey Edited May 8, 2014 by Neal 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 Wing bags masked off, fire engine & deck masked. Just need to find the time to properly clean the airbrush then spray some white. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazzio Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 That's looking really smart Neal! If it helps you any, the Vallejo Model Air metallic range spray really well. Best of all, no mixing!! Infact I was trying to spray everything I could get my hands on the other day just because I was having too much fun (simple things keep me happy! ). In hind-sight maybe a NMF aircraft is in order?? Anyhow loving the build and keeping a close eye on the deck. I got one myself to be built. Kind Regards Dazz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Neal, I wouldn't give up on spraying metallics just yet, as Dazz has said there are lots of options available it is just a matter of finding one that suits you. The paint separating could be due to not mixing the paint/thinners enough. I hope you have another go and failing that you could always resort to a rattle can - it just means a bit more masking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted May 13, 2014 Author Share Posted May 13, 2014 (edited) That's looking really smart Neal! If it helps you any, the Vallejo Model Air metallic range spray really well. Best of all, no mixing!! Infact I was trying to spray everything I could get my hands on the other day just because I was having too much fun (simple things keep me happy! ). In hind-sight maybe a NMF aircraft is in order?? Anyhow loving the build and keeping a close eye on the deck. I got one myself to be built. Kind Regards Dazz Neal, I wouldn't give up on spraying metallics just yet, as Dazz has said there are lots of options available it is just a matter of finding one that suits you. The paint separating could be due to not mixing the paint/thinners enough. I hope you have another go and failing that you could always resort to a rattle can - it just means a bit more masking.Cheers chaps, I'll have a look at Vallejo range. Thankfully it's a few minor bits that need metallics on this so I'll brush the exhaust and gun port. I think I'm going to be on hold for a few weeks on this, but I got the white sprayed last night which was critical for me to have any chance of getting to the end of the GB. The next few jobs are all masking so I can try and squeeze them in here and there rather than having to have a dedicated few hours. I think I was one or two passes too many on the fuselage and most of the preshading has gone I think. All the other UC weapons etc were all sprayed as well, there still seem to be loads of parts to go on and it took ages. With the white on I unmasked the JBD and the fire engine and they both look ok. I still need to decide which tamiya grey to use on the upper surfaces, I'll perhaps do some test sample on a peice of plasticard. Edited May 13, 2014 by Neal 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio N Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 There's no matched tamiya paint for the uppersurfaces of these tomcats, the only option is to mix. You could try to add white to XF19 sky grey, keeping in mind that with a 1/144 model some lightening might be needed on many paints (ah the famous scale effect....). A 2 parts XF19 to one part white mix has been proposed as a decent match for FS 36440, might be a start. Speaking of airbushing metallics, the best acrylics IMHO are the one made by Games Workshop. They spray very well and have one of the most realistic finish I've seen on "normal" metallic paints (that is without considering alclads and similar) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 Looks really good Neal, and I can still make out some of the pre-shading especially on the tailplanes and intakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted May 13, 2014 Author Share Posted May 13, 2014 Looks really good Neal, and I can still make out some of the pre-shading especially on the tailplanes and intakes. Thanks John, it'll be interesting to see how much is left after a coat of klear, as in my experience it diminishes the effect even more. There's no matched tamiya paint for the uppersurfaces of these tomcats, the only option is to mix. You could try to add white to XF19 sky grey, keeping in mind that with a 1/144 model some lightening might be needed on many paints (ah the famous scale effect....). A 2 parts XF19 to one part white mix has been proposed as a decent match for FS 36440, might be a start. Speaking of airbushing metallics, the best acrylics IMHO are the one made by Games Workshop. They spray very well and have one of the most realistic finish I've seen on "normal" metallic paints (that is without considering alclads and similar) Giorgio, thanks for the advice and guidance. I'll give the lightened XF-19 a go, I've also picked up a couple of other options to try: XF-66 light grey XF-54 dark sea grey XF-19 sky grey XF-80 royal light grey I think I used XF-80 in the first tomcat GB, but that was ok but a little dark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio N Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 Neal, save your time and don't bother with XF-54, it really is a darker grey, almost as dark as RAF dark sea grey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted May 14, 2014 Author Share Posted May 14, 2014 Neal, save your time and don't bother with XF-54, it really is a darker grey, almost as dark as RAF dark sea grey Thanks for the tip off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 Appologies for the lack of progress and failure to complete the STGB Thanks to all the Tomcat experts and GB members for the help and guidance. Anyway I'm going to finish this so there's a thread in WIP here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234963636-revell-1144-f-14a-vf-84-the-final-countdown-cat-shot-update-4-7/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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