1/35 Trumpeter BR86 Dampflok

[Engineer66]

Thanks for the info,

Think I'll have to send for some. I have a small stock of Grandt Line bolts but it is rather limited.

Cheers

Al

[bangle]

I quite like using the rod, it has the advantage that you can carve it, I made the little taps for the small tanks that way.

I'm going to begin my update with a little story. We were looking at the DK trains book we bought for our 5 year old and we happened to come across a rather striking looking train DR 18201 and we thought we'd look it up online and see if you can get a model of it. Here's the real thing, pretty huh?

Well there isn't one, but as we were reading about how someone who was building a running metal version we stumbled across the fact that he had gotten some rather nice photo etch plates made up for it from a company called Beckert Modellbau. This site turned out to be rather interesting in that they sell etch plates for German locos of exactly the type I need (http://www.beckert-modellbau.de/html/atzschilder.html for anyone that's interested). As my husband happens to speak German he very helpfully was able to translate and order what I needed (in German). Sure enough, about a week later I was excited to receive this today. The quality is really nice, the black is recessed to make them look perfectly like a scale version of the real pressed plates, I really am impressed!

Here it is compared to the kit parts

And the real thing

Now all we need to do is find a source that does a German style script for the decals!

Edited October 9, 2015 by bangle

[bangle]

Well for the past 1 1/2 weeks that I appear to have been doing nothing i've actually been working on all the rods and things. Now it's all finished I have some pictures. Because I did want to see what it looks like when it's mostly together I got out my blue tak and put it together temporarily. As you can imagine this was a rather fiddly job!

Though it may not look like much, i've actually done a considerable amount of work, the main rod (the chunky one) started off fairly flat so I carved in a recess (pictured) along with scribing some rectangles and adding some hex rod to approximate some of the detail.

The return crank (the small arm attached to the main crank) also received some scribing attention as well as a bit of re-profiling and of course some hex rod. The eccentric rod was rather flat ended (this attaches to the return crank and the expansion link which is the holey bendy thing. For the photos I decided to leave off attaching it to the expansion link though as the whole assembly was just too fiddly by this point!) so I got some of my plastic rod of about the right size, thinned it out by drilling through the middle, then cut off one side and slipped the c-shape onto the the end.

For the radius rod (the one that goes through the expansion link I needed to add some of the recessed channel type detail so I filed the top and bottom down, stuck some thin plastic card on, and cut it to shape. The crosshead (see below) also received a fair amount of attention, although this work was of a far simpler type.

A few other bits and pieces received varying amounts of attention, mainly addition of some hex rod or oil boxes. Anyway, here's some more pictures.

Just for comparison sakes here's the rod assembly that you can make up using the kit plus eduard set:-

and here's the genuine article:-

That's my update complete, now that's over it's time to tackle another area of sub-standard detail!

[MickE]

Fantastic build, looks great, you really have an eye for detail.

Mick

[bangle]

Fantastic build, looks great, you really have an eye for detail.

Mick

Thanks The only problem is, there's so many details to add i'm not sure where to tackle next!

There's some considerable detail to add on the frame under the cab, but maybe I should actually get on with working on the cab itself again. It's only been about a year and a half since I last looked at it!

[Spookytooth]

Great work Bangle.

Your attention detail is spot on. .

Simon.

[bangle]

Great work Bangle.

Your attention detail is spot on. .

Simon.

Thanks Simon

Well it's decided, cab work it is! Of course because I did start that area a while ago I now feel like certain things that I didn't even notice before need fixing now but that's the way it goes.

[Engineer66]

Nice work Bangle,

Looks like you've been doing your homework, you've got the terminology sorted

Don't worry about how long it's taking to build this I started an 0-4-2 narrow gauge loco about eight years ago and so far have only got the frames, wheels and cylinders built! (OK I admit it is 2 feet long and I am working in metal and from a set of drawings only ) but I told everyone that it would probably take me a couple of years!

Al

[bangle]

Nice work Bangle,

Looks like you've been doing your homework, you've got the terminology sorted

Don't worry about how long it's taking to build this I started an 0-4-2 narrow gauge loco about eight years ago and so far have only got the frames, wheels and cylinders built! (OK I admit it is 2 feet long and I am working in metal and from a set of drawings only ) but I told everyone that it would probably take me a couple of years!

Al

Thanks Al, I actually did take the time to learn a bit of terminology. I think bothering about how long it was taking was the reason I completely stopped this build in about June last year and didn't pick it up again till around a month ago so i'm going to try not to make that mistake again. It's going to take as long as it takes, however long that may be.

I've always been a fan of the metal built locos, I know with my build the thing that takes the most time is the research and the figuring out how to actually make the part so I imagine it's the same for a model from plans alone. Only yesterday I was looking for the destination of a certain pipe and ended up on the computer for about 2 hours! It was worth it though, as I dug up some good high res photos of the right hand side of the loco which seems to be the far less photographed side and almost never in a decent resolution. They're going to be a great help.

Despite spending a little to long doing research I did manage to make some progress on the cab roof, nothing particularly earth shattering detail wise, but I did cut out the ends of the vented part and made the angled flap that is apparent on the real thing. After I took the photo and put it next to a photo of the real article I did realise that the mysterious dome thing on the top is far too tall (I don't know what it is and couldn't get a clear shot of it either but it appears to be made of brass or similar. I think in this photo it appears partly clear as it's a shot of 333 in motion so is a little blurry.) so I will be cutting that down.

Edited October 18, 2015 by bangle

[bangle]

It's been time for some more work on parts I started a long time ago, the most annoying thing is that i'd decided to see how my work looked by giving the boiler and the rear of the cab a spray with some black. Whilst informative at the time it's been a bit of a pain. I'm not quite sure any more why I made such an effort to blend in the back with the side panels, but it's done so i'm just going to have to live with it.

I'm quite liking doing the direct comparison pictures, especially as it prompts me to review what i've made compared to the genuine article. Looking at this one I think I need to work on the size of the support panel for the real light. Looking at it, the Trumpeter lights are a little overscale, which is something i'm going to have to live with, but I don't really want to accentuate it with having an even larger circle behind it! Anyway other than that, my part looks quite messy but essentially I quite like it. The main features I changed were the side handles, which were far too long. The big stepping plate eduard provides is far superior to the rubbish looking Trumpeter part but still not perfect so I used the mesh, but backed it with a piece of plastic card as 333 very clearly has some kind of solid platform. In the absence of a conclusive photo I decided, based on the construction of the rest that they'd go for the practical option when they restored it and use plate rather than the wood which was widely used back in the day. I decided also to make my own supports, purely because plastic card is a better medium for adding to. The supports are welded on via L shaped channel so i used some plastic strip to approximate this. I also edged my plate with some plastic strip like i did for the front plate.

Finally, I decided to use the trumpeter steps and adjust them to make them look like those on 333, which is again showing itself to be reasonably atypical for its type. Again the plastic won over the etch for the same reasons, and also I prefer the thickness of the plastic over the etch. I haven't fixed the steps yet as i'm going to be messing around with the back section when I make the cab.

Well, that's me for today, I'll probably be looking at the externals of the sides next, before I get into the serious work involved on the cab interior.

[Engineer66]

I've always been a fan of the metal built locos, I know with my build the thing that takes the most time is the research and the figuring out how to actually make the part so I imagine it's the same for a model from plans alone. Only yesterday I was looking for the destination of a certain pipe and ended up on the computer for about 2 hours! It was worth it though, as I dug up some good high res photos of the right hand side of the loco which seems to be the far less photographed side and almost never in a decent resolution. They're going to be a great help

I too have always been a fan of large scale working model loco's. I wanted to build one since I was a teenager, but never had the opportunity or money. It was only about eight or nine years ago when I was offered the chance of a lathe that things started to happen. A very good freind of mine who has built a few 5 inch gauge locos knew a chap who had just died and there was an old Boxford lathe in his estate, along with a load of necessary tooling and accessories and made arrangements for me to become the proud owner!

After a bit of research I've managed to establish that the lathe is about 60years old, and after a bit of TLC it works beautifully, you just have to know its limitations.

The biggest difficulty in working from engineering drawings is working out how you are going to make the part. You need to plan it carefully, taking into consideration how you are going to hold the material and part completed component and the order in which you are going to make your cuts, turning, milling etc. there are many times I've got part way through making a component and realised I no longer have a way of holding it in the lathe or milling machine to make the last few operations, and then having to start all over again. Plastic is so much easier, you don't have to clamp a 2Kg lump of it onto a machine and spin it at 500 rpm to make a hole in it!

Keep up the good work

Al

Edited October 23, 2015 by Engineer66

[bangle]

That sounds like a great find, I looked into metal lathes at one point, unfortunately they're a little bit pricey to buy new and I have nowhere to keep one! Also I imagine the materials cost is substantial, it's not too bad if you have to scrap a bit of plastic but I imagine scrapping a bit of metal hurts much more!

[Engineer66]

I was very lucky to be honest.

The cost of metal is not too bad if you are using Steel or Cast Iron which are priced by the foot. It's when you come to use stuff like Bronze and Gun Metal which is the same price, but by the inch instead! Definitely a case of measure twice and cut once

You are doing a great job with the plastic, the bunker is looking really good.

Al

[bangle]

Thanks Al

Things have been a bit slow on the model making recently, we've been busy making friends and helping our new neighbours move in. Plus my model has been going through one of those phases involving filling, waiting and sanding several times on the same part. As usual there's got to be something that's way overscale and something that's blindingly obvious once you put the new etch next to it is the handle on the side of the cab. The handle itself is fine but the void it goes into is huge! Of course this had to go so the first thing I did was get an accurate scale measurement. I had to reduce the width by 4mm each side! As this is pretty large I went for making up a plastic card cube then the previously mentioned fill, wait, sand etc. The void is also not a square box but has sloping sides so I then had to add in more plastic card to do this. I didn't really have the option of cutting out the back and doing it that way as i've already added the etch to the other side and it would mean i'd have to make it look nice on the interior side as well.

I'm much happier with the result now anyway, it makes quite a large difference I think so as much as it was time consuming i'm glad I tackled it.

[robw_uk]

holy smoke thats a detailed build... very very impressed. Am not a train modeller but will keep an eye on this just for sheer inspiration on how this hobby can be done

[RichO]

I've got to chime in here. This is a build I have been watching for sometime now. Your build has gotten me to order this kit and give it a try. Very nice details added, very good references here.

keep up the great build.

[bangle]

I've got to chime in here. This is a build I have been watching for sometime now. Your build has gotten me to order this kit and give it a try. Very nice details added, very good references here.

keep up the great build.

Good luck! It's an interesting kit for honing your scratch building skills certainly

I'm finding i'm having a bit of a slow down on the build again so no progress at the moment, but hopefully it'll pick up again soon.

[AlexN]

Hello bangle,

I have been following your Dampflok thread with great interest, for the highly inspiring building, and also because I have the Trumpeter BR52 in my collection. Looking forward to future developments, when you can get back to it.

Cheers,

Alex.

[Blaubar]

A new update would be interesting.

Very nicely build so far. (no finger up thingy, so I will use pies for thumbs up.

cheers

/stefan

[Mike]

me like pies.

[bentwaters81tfw]

1 hour ago, Mike said:

me like pies.

[Mike]

2 hours ago, bentwaters81tfw said:

Don't you be starting Frank. You're not too old for a slap

[Sgt.Squarehead]

Really glad to see this one back on track! 

 

Splendid work, your attention to detail is quite remarkable. 

[Madhatter]

Hi Amanda

 

I'll chime in and ask if you've picked this up again? I was enjoying this.

Edited November 17, 2016 by Madhatter

[bangle]

After a very long hiatus the BR86 might be back on soon! (well maybe). I have since done many things including moving house, building other things. Ignoring the BR86 box, learning 3D CAD (self taught so i'm still battling with it) and finally, most recently, buying a 3D resin printer. The last being the final thing that may push this project forward again.

 

I may end up re-doing a few parts but i'll assess and if it's still good I won't mess with it. One of the reasons for me stopping in the first place was just purely project fatigue and looking at all the things that just aren't there that should be was just so overwhelming. If anyone is interested, my recent work was actually the face of my Renault FT17 tank driver. I'm looking forward to the Miniart German Railroad Staff set coming out so I can finally make a proper diorama!