Wolwe82 Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 (edited) Hey guys, i hope you wont mind one more topic from me for this GB. Definitely last one untill i finish at least one of the started kits! So my other builds are in the (quite) boring stage of filling, sandpapering and such a stuff.. I needed to do something fresh and also wanted to test some new paints and varnishes And because i have few of AZ Model Bf-109s in stash, i thought making one just out of box should not hurt. The kit is very nicely detailed i have to say, the fit seems to be better than their spit (though the spit is also greatly detailed and the bad fit could be caused just by my clumsy hands) and the instructions are faaaaar ahead of the spit´s ones. Nicely drawn and even all the details are painted in the exact colours right in the instructions so you dont have to riddle what colour is used here and there. I dont like to build german planes, because i dont think i could do good enough mottling schemes, but hell i think i will have to learn it, because these 109 are realy great kits and deserves more than just OOB attention. But for me now only OOB it is :/ So far i completed only the cockpit. I wanted to try alclad gloss varnish as base for washing. I know lacquers and enamels doesnt like to work with each other, but still i had to try it and because the cockpit will be closed, i thought some errors there wont hurt so bad for now. It was as expected - using enamel based thinner resulted in sticky surface and on testing areas (wings inside) i used more thinner on purpose and all the varnish + acrylic base paint went off in no time. But i m going to try the clay based (water thinned/cleaned) washes in future, so it wont be problem later. For now, in the cockpit i used the white spirit gently and could remove the excessive wash, though i realy would not recommend it to anyone, based on their nature the lacquers and enamels just wont work together I see its known fact all around, but it was ment for those thinking "but maaaaybeee..." - no, just no. Anyway, here is the cockpit, just painted, "washed" and its got matt varnish + some light drybrushing + i tried some progresso silver pencil to give some edges a bit of metal look, because i dont like to use silver chipping in darker cockpits. Edited March 16, 2014 by Wolwe82 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snapper_city Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Good start. This should be interesting. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Cockpit looks very good. Nice to see you up and running with another kit! Still looking forward to seeing progress on the others though! Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 I do not have much time every day Stix, sadly, so sometimes the progress is just realy realy small and i dont want to bother others and spamming thread with making pics of 2 wires added Also taking into account the limited number of photos on postimage.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwaterous Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 That's some very nice work on the cockpit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paganpete Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Cracking start - love the cockpit!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 (edited) Thanks guys, i decided to try and build this over this weekend, to take rest from scratchbuilding a bit (i love scratchbuilding but sometimes i feel like i need something just cut out of sprues, glue it together and move on ). Thought i ll add seatbelts at least. So after like hour, which i spent mostly swearing and looking for parts jumping all around (without succes) this was the result.. Used tamiya tape and leaden wires originaly, but the leaden wires are too soft so for the middle buckle i had to use copper wire + plastic rod. I saw this on the flory web page, quite late noticed the guy is using this setup for larger scales.. but well, even though its not best, its still better than empty seat i guess Edited March 7, 2014 by Wolwe82 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hgbn Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Nice belts.. Better try this method myself, because those are awesome and nearly free 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 (edited) http://www.florymodels.co.uk/how-to-scratch-build-seat-belt/ here is the link with step by step I hope the flory models wont mind (guess they should not, as this just sends more people to their page) and also hope its not against any BM rules Let me know if it is, i ll remove it. Edited March 7, 2014 by Wolwe82 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pawel Szczudlyk Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 I'am looking forward to see more from you so far very interesting 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Great seat belts - I don't know how you have the patience! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 Haha, patience.. i think patience is not the word what comes on mind to my neighbours when i m swearing after the little pieces jumps out of tweezers, geting lost in eternity.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hgbn Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Oooh no not again.... Remind me darling never pick up scale modeling as a hobby.. LOL 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pawel Szczudlyk Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Haha, patience.. i think patience is not the word what comes on mind to my neighbours when i m swearing after the little pieces jumps out of tweezers, geting lost in eternity.. I really hate when it's happening but live goes on 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Gordon Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 Haha, patience.. i think patience is not the word what comes on mind to my neighbours when i m swearing after the little pieces jumps out of tweezers, geting lost in eternity.. Sheer bloody minded perseverence that is.It's bad enough doing that in 48th never mind what you've done. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 (edited) I was actualy thinking if i should not go for 48´s or 32´s instead, but there you need to be realy good at painting i think. So i guess i ll stick with 72´s for now and give to neighbours some earplugs.. Hows your kingfisher by the way Alex? Edited March 8, 2014 by Wolwe82 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 (edited) Hey again, sadly i didnt have that much time over the weekend as i hoped.. Also i had a bit of problems with fiting the wings (left half was making big step by the fuselage, when sorted with a bit of evergreen puting under the wing root, the right wing was going up in wrong angle, so i fixed that with adding tiny plastic strip between top side of right wing and fuselage), though it was my fault for not doing enough dry fiting. Same with the nose, where you have to fit the top of fuselage between two fuselage halves, next time i ll add some short plastic rod between the fuselages, to keep the walls in right distance - for me the fuselages got too close together and then ofcourse the top part did not fit good. My fault in both cases, but lesson learned for next AZ 109s So anyway, to the progress -completed fuselage and wing, cleaned the joints, atm waiting for putty to dry around the undernose "radiator" so i can give it some shape -completed propeller with spiner, drilled out the original gun barrel and added new one from needle -made new barrel for the gun pod under wing from needle and some tamiya tape (near by the gun pod the barrel is "wider") -painted U/C parts + wheels, added some wiring -made new cover over the left exhausts (on the right side this metal strip was not) from metal strip (better than the original platic part, which was obviously too thick) -also i did cut away the original nose guns, have already new barrels made from needle and plastic strip, but i ll add these after painting the fuselage some areas on fuselage/wing are painted, thats because i m running out of surfacer so used whatever i just had mixed in airbrush to give it light coat, to see where i need to clean it yet Edited March 9, 2014 by Wolwe82 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 A bit more from the evening, added second gun pod, the rack for fuel under fuselage (it should be asymetrical, i used the kit instructions as reference) and also added the flaps and blinding to the tail wheel (where was the wheel well for retractable tail wheel on later versions) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 Nice detailing as usual. Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snapper_city Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 This is really moving along... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Thanks guys, its realy very nice detailed kit, which deserves way more attention than this kind of quick building (well, "quick", because here are ppl who could do 3 kits at the time i can make one... ), so when i ll build the nexts, i ll give it some more sweeties and so Anyway, as usualy, during work time i was thinking about what camo to use. The kit options are nice, and i found some more interesting choices, like the no.4 on this image : Bad thing is, all the camouflages i would like to do, needs some motling dots and so.. And i dont think i can handle the airbrush good enough yet (+ even with 0,2 it keeps spraying quite wide areas, some thin snakes i can only dream about.. ). So i was thinking maybe about some desert camo? Or even some captured in british/australian marking, but these did not have the added gun pads.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted March 11, 2014 Author Share Posted March 11, 2014 (edited) So a bit more progress, i decided i m going to finish this before continuing on the mosquito, because the working desk starts to be kinda mess So today i worked hard on the 109 and on AZ spit too, because these are at similar stage so grinding, sandpapering and polishing all the way.. I did not add many parts, mainly focused on the "bloobs" behind engine and canopy fitting (the canopy is not as wide as the fuselage is, so there is slight problem, on next builds i ll have to find some better way to sort that out). So after all the sandpapering, here is the G next to IX. Its like meeting of german dock worker fighter, not that smart but very strong, versus London club elegant gentleman, who will slap you with gloves before kicking your butt! Sorry, i had to.. Edited March 11, 2014 by Wolwe82 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Both these builds are coming along very nicely. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted March 11, 2014 Author Share Posted March 11, 2014 Thanks stix I was working a bit yet, last thing which i had to complete before painting the 109 was the drop fuel tank. I chosed to use the older version, saving the newer versions for another spitfire IX in operation velveta marking - back then some czechoslovak spitfires were sold to the israel (along with avia s.199 which was bf109 with jumo engine) and because the spits did not have long enough range, they were equipped by one fuel tank under each wing, which were just the newer bf 109 drop tanks. For part of the "trip" the spits were even wearing yugoslavian marking, so i found that quite interesting to build in future. Anyway, sorry for the off topic a bit Back to the drop tank i m going to use. First, the fit to the kit rack is not best (for next builds i ll replace the 4 "wires" holding the tank with real wires, which will sort it easy, but for now i didnt want to do that at the beginning.. and now its too late), so i was thinking what to do with it. And i decided to cut off and grind line for the metal strips, which were holding the tank all around and add these metal strips (here from flat leaden wire) and also tried to somehow simulate the clips these stripes had on each side of the tank. Also i drilled hole to the top of the tank and added some fuel hose there (at least i hope it was like that, did not have good photos so had to use some images of the tanks left on the ground). There should be few more details on the top, but it will be so close to the rack, there wont be anything possible to see. Also, i wanted to give some life to the tank, so i tried to make some scratches and scars, its often to see on the photos of real drop tanks, even on these hanged under the planes. So, here is the fuel tank, the metal stripes are a bit too thick ofcourse to the scale ("a bit".. ), but well, i think its still a bit better than flat walls. The tank is layed on its side - for your better orientation, the top of the tank is actualy on the right side on the image 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 (edited) I had day off today, so i spent most of it painting the 109. Tried some pre- and postshading, the postshading for the first time with airbrush (so far i was drybrushing it). I had some problems with compressor though, it could not hold constant pressure, but probably it was just overheated from too much work, i hope. And, when one thing goes wrong, more bad stuff is going to come, trust me.. for me, the cover around nozzle on airbrush, where the pure air should flow, is somehow wrong shaped so the air is going just by one side around the needle.. so it sends the spray more to left, that would be no problem, but also it keeps a bit spiting those microscopic (well, not SO microscopic as you can see it just by eye...) drops to other side.. No way i can do mottling like this, so i ll have to find other way how to do so... As for the colours, i see the bottom colour is too blue. It did not look like that while airbrushing, but once it is dry, it is too blue.. But well, i dont mind honestly, I might give it light grey filter after i finish mottling, to dull the blue a bit. I was mixing all the colours from black, white and azure blue, so you know... The postshading is actualy a bit better to see on life, i couldnt make it appear on the photos so bright. I did it a bit too hard on purpose, because on previous tests it always almost disapeared after all the gloss coat, wash and matt coat.. So i have to find the right touch Edited March 13, 2014 by Wolwe82 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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