Glos-ter Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 Great tutorial and well written one I will be using in the not to distant future on a little build I have in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOUSTON Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 Matt, SUPERB Tutorial .. Thank you for sharing your work technique and DO 's and DON'T s. Nice of you to take the time and effort to do this for everyone. Appreciated it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neill Posted September 13, 2018 Share Posted September 13, 2018 Hi Matt ive been building on and off for some time mostly due to product availability I do not have the zero plants available and used what I can get. Can you give me some tips using Tamiya paint what would be the best for painting the body our local store stocks enamel acrylic and a very limited on the spray cans from Tamiya. Please help Great tutorial by the way Thanks Neill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted September 13, 2018 Author Share Posted September 13, 2018 Thanks, Neill! I’ve never tried using regular Tamiya Acrylics (the ones in a glass pot) for bodies. If you can’t get the range of TS-xx sprays and primer locally, I’d try the closest auto store. First, Halfords white or grey (or brick red) PLASTIC primer, lightly wet sanded smooth with 1200 grit wet and dry. Follow with light “spatter” coats of regular car touch up paint (don’t try to do wet coats) until solidly and evenly coloured. Let dry and cure in the airing cupboard a few days, then polish with Meguiars “Scratch-X”(also to be found in Halfords, with wax and shampoo). As with all methods, best to try on a junk model or better yet plastic spoons before applying to your latest WIP... All the best, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 21, 2020 Author Share Posted February 21, 2020 Updated the main post to include recommendation for Citadel Contrast Paint as panel and shut line wash... best, M. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schwarz-Brot Posted February 21, 2020 Share Posted February 21, 2020 Thank you for keeping this up to date. Learned quite a lot from you post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonners Posted February 24, 2020 Share Posted February 24, 2020 Citadel contrast paint - thanks Matt, I’ll look out for that and give it a try. Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redstaff Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 I'm liking the idea of the Citadel contrast paint rather than the usual dark panel lines, looks way more effective Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted July 24, 2020 Share Posted July 24, 2020 Excellent tutorial and it's helped me a lot! I do have one question though. How do you remove 2K Gloss? Say I wanted to strip back to the plastic again, what's the best way of doing it? Thanks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted July 25, 2020 Author Share Posted July 25, 2020 Thanks @Jasonb13. 99% Isopropyl Alcohol will take off the 2K. A soak overnight is enough if it’s freshly sprayed, otherwise, leave it for a few days or a week. It comes off in big sheets in my experience... though I’ve only done it a couple of times, both when red colour from the plastic bled through the primer and basecoat and discoloured the clear... best, M. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 Brilliant, thanks for the quick reply! As it happens, I'm now hopeful I won't have to do it, but it's good to know how to if my recovery efforts don't work out. Thanks again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 Me again @cmatthewbacon! So unfortunately I've had to go down the IPA route, and I've just put the part in to soak. It's a clear plastic part, no paint/deals or anything like that, so all I'm removing is the gloss. I'm gonna leave it for a couple of days, but once I take it out, what's the best way to clean it up? Will it just need a rub with a cloth and the Gloss will come off, or will it need something harder than that? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted July 31, 2020 Author Share Posted July 31, 2020 @Jasonb13 It should just peel off, or fall off in sheets. For that kind of thing, I usually cut off a matchstick at an angle or shape a lolly stick/craft stick/tongue depressor into a sort of wooden “chisel”. The sharp edge does its job, but the wood’s soft enough not to mark the plastic. best, M. PS: generally I wouldn’t use clear over transparencies... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 Cool, thanks @cmatthewbacon, the toothpick is a good idea! And you're right, I did some testing with transparencies and the 2K fogged them up, but not if I put a 'normal' gloss on first to protect the transparency, then it works perfectly. Thanks for getting back to me, I'll leave the part in the IPA for a couple of days and see where I am then... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spruecutter96 Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 An old tooth-brush can be a good device for removing the old paint. Running the warm water tap over it can also help. Chris. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moviedrone Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 @cmatthewbacon So for the Tamiya process, do you put a clear coat on before you polish with the Novus? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted August 28, 2020 Author Share Posted August 28, 2020 7 hours ago, moviedrone said: @cmatthewbacon So for the Tamiya process, do you put a clear coat on before you polish with the Novus? No. Just let it dry out thoroughly. best, M. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moviedrone Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 I got the novus stuck in the grooves of the doors and it won't come out, any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Noble Posted October 3, 2020 Share Posted October 3, 2020 On 17/09/2020 at 16:24, moviedrone said: I got the novus stuck in the grooves of the doors and it won't come out, any suggestions? Warm water with a little detergent and use a soft brush to agitate the Novus should fix it.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einar Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 Thank you very much for this tutorial. It helps me a lot! Einar 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sroubos Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 For the Tamiya route, when do you apply the decals and how do you seal them in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Noble Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 7 minutes ago, sroubos said: For the Tamiya route, when do you apply the decals and how do you seal them in? Always apply your decals onto the painted surface. I allow a minimum of 2-3 days for the decals to dry before hitting them with clear. Of course, you don't have to seal decals with clear coat. You can apply them onto the paint and leave it at that. Many race cars don't have the sponsor logo's clear coated over. The one and only reason I clear coat decals on a model is purely to protect them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sroubos Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 I’m sorry perhaps I missed this, but what type of clear coat do you apply for the Tamiya method? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted October 13, 2022 Author Share Posted October 13, 2022 43 minutes ago, sroubos said: I’m sorry perhaps I missed this, but what type of clear coat do you apply for the Tamiya method? @sroubos for solid colours I don’t, just polish them with the Novus. For metallics, I’ll finish with a few light coats of TS—13 just to make sure the polishing doesn’t disturb the metal flake and make it uneven. best, M. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now