Jump to content

Yamaha MT-01


Recommended Posts

this is my first venture into paper model building and so far I have to say it is rather addictive if somewhat labour intensive. I have used a paper with a

gsm of 120(normal copy paper is around 80gsm) and while it is a lot firmer than normal paper I am finding it is still a bit flimsy but if you use a thicker

paper some of the smaller parts will be to hard to get into shape so will need to use a combination of different papers for the next one I do.

The sprue shot......all 53 of them :mental:

2014-02-17_14-36-28_928_zps6d415554.jpg

2014-02-20_01-02-29_164_zps489c340e.jpg

2014-02-24_15-00-25_548_zpsda7170d8.jpg

2014-02-24_15-00-36_707_zpsa34b785c.jpg

2014-02-25_07-52-37_308_zpsca7ddec6.jpg

2014-02-25_07-53-06_430_zps8e8f4074.jpg

2014-02-25_07-53-22_418_zpsab099b79.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are doing a fine job so far, and this is my paper-modeller alter-ego talking.

I am a member of the forum kartonist.de and there is a motorcycle specialist there from the UK named Alan whose work is just great. Check the following links out. I'm sure you will be inspired and impressed.

A Pair of Wheels

Cechie-Böhmerland 1927

Yamaha YZR-M1

Kind regards,

Adam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice! This reminds me of the magazine/card model combo that my Dad used to get from the newsagent, we built Stephenson's Rocket and the Flying Scotsman. Valentino Rossi on the Babetta 250 had me in stitches, superb build and it reminds me of the old Playstation 1 graphics but in 3D!!!

Great work so far, what scale is it BTW?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The frame is built in to 2 parts for the moment and the top part would be much better built with a thicker paper/card,I think the recommended thickness

is 180msg (I am using 120msg) but 180 is to thick for some of the smaller parts so a combination of the 2 would be best but that is what

this build is for so I can sort out this sort of thing and then do it better in colour.

Some of the bits

2014-02-26_15-56-21_234_zpsd63f8007.jpg

2014-02-26_16-12-10_767_zpsc9c5eb5a.jpg

2014-02-27_22-16-30_879_zps27ca744f.jpg

And a dry fit of the major parts so far

2014-02-28_20-48-53_11_zps7acc57c2.jpg

2014-02-28_20-49-07_138_zps9fb1856e.jpg

2014-02-28_20-49-18_418_zps1d29a00e.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi RKennerley,

love this build.

As a total freshman to building anything with paper, I wonder if you could kindly give us some pointers?

I want to build the Yamaha Serow, as I have the 1/1 version in my garage but all of the instructions are in Japanese, so any pointers you could offer would be great, even down to the glues used etc.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Regards

Reggie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi RKennerley,

love this build.

As a total freshman to building anything with paper, I wonder if you could kindly give us some pointers?

I want to build the Yamaha Serow, as I have the 1/1 version in my garage but all of the instructions are in Japanese, so any pointers you could offer would be great, even down to the glues used etc.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Regards

Reggie

HI this will be like the blind leading blind as this is my first paper model as well but I will help where I can.Most instructions I have come across so far are just

a assembly guide to the folded parts,what they don't tell you is how to fold them they leave that for you to figure out.So what have I learned so far......always

dry fold fold to make sure you have scored (I use the back edge of a blunt scalpel)all the lines that need it. My instructions have solid lines folded towards you

and broken lines get folded away from you. The paper...for this I have used paper with a gsm of 120 (normal copy paper is 80gsm) but I have found it a bit thin

for some parts so if you want to do it in this scale (1/7....I think) you might want to do some parts with a thicker paper for better support. If you doing it in a smaller scale

it should be fine and you might even find that you need to use normal copy paper for some smaller parts/rolled parts shock tubes etc. Glue.... I have just used a pva glue

and all I need to do is use it very sparingly it looks almost dry when I apply it , also if you have a long section to glue do it in little bits at a time because if you

"over" glue the paper just goes soggy won't hold its shape.

I hope that this helps you some and if you send me your instructions I'll see if we can't figure them out between us

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Matey,

should be fun then eh!

Here's the link to the instructions.

http://www.saturn.dti.ne.jp/~eastern/pcraft/serow225_inst.pdf

And here's the link to the print.

http://www.saturn.dti.ne.jp/~eastern/pcraft/serow225.pdf

The model is a 1/8 scale, so as the 1/1's only little then I should be able to manage of the 120gsm.

Thanks for the pointers, most helpful.

Regards

Reggie

Edited by The Cameraman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Reggie

I have just had a quick look at it and it looks similar to what I am working with now so I will sit down with it and we can

work it out between us, the only real problem I see is the spokes but we will get there in the end.

Regards

Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...