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Mosquito FB Mk.VI, 1/72 Tamiya, FINISHED (yea, lets call it that.. :/ )


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Thanks Stix, as i said, the wheel bays ll be a bit simplified, but i ll try to add the details visible from ground. I did have just few minutes every now and then during today, so the progress was mostly just gluing the wings together and so.

I did a bit of work on the back bomb bay interior. There ll be fuel tanks in the two long "holes".

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And one of the wheel bays is completed with wing now. I did add the wall to the front side, to blind the hole to the engine area. I could not see how it looks there exactly, on the photos there is the U/C leg and the oil tank in way, but that ll be the same with the kit, so i just used a bit of artistic licence there :)

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The back side got just that rounded plating.

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There ll be two big springs yet, but i ll add these after i paint the wheel bays with base paint.

You can see the fuel/oil tubing, i started to work on that before the break. But i wont continue on it, ll just let it as it is, you wont see much of it anyway at the end. Also, i noticed when tried to dry fit the U/C leg in, i would have to rework the legs, bcs the joint to the wing is ofcourse simplified. And that would take long long time and i m not sure if i could do it succesfuly anyway. So as i said, the wheel bays ll get just slight detailing :)

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Aaand ofcourse, you might noticed i forgot to add the landing light to this wing... it was first thing i did after the break and already screwed that.. :( I ll just use some styrene rod, stick it inside to make the "bottom", paint it silver and then make the glass by clear fix.

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Thanks guys, realy appreciate support from everyone. Honestly, if it was not part of this group build, i think she would be resting unfinished for few months yet.. But with so many people supporting me, i feel some "responsibility", pushing me forward :) I only hope i can stay focused on her and avoid any big errors.

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Glad to see you back working on this one. Agree with what you've done in the wheel wells - no point adding detail that will never be seen again when the time can be spent more productivly elsewhere.

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Excellent model so far Wolwe82. Just a note on the engine firewall/forward wheel well bulkhead - this should follow the external panel lines on the nacelle and extend downwards in a straight line to the rear face of the carburettor intake. Either side of the carb intake is a rounded cutout over the forward top edge of the undercarriage legs, see photos 10 & 11 here, the others may be of use as well!

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Thanks Dave, very nice photos, will be handy when i ll build next mossie (and for this one yet too :) ). Sadly i see, if i wanted to make the firewall as it is on the real plane, i would have to drasticaly change the u/c (in the kit the legs are going all the way up and are rooted to the wing, instead of to the firewall. So i would have to cut the legs and move the original part of firewall which s in the kit too. Its too late for such a surgery now, but i ll try and do something like that on the next mossie, so realy thanks for the nice images :)

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You don't need to change the geometry of the kit legs at all. Here's a few shots of one I did earlier (much earlier, about 12 years ago!)

Undercarriagemods.jpg

First the undercarriage legs, standard kit parts on the left and detailed centre & right. Note that the kit wheel axle has been removed and drilled out to fit a length of rod, this allows the wheel and undercarriage to be painted separately and the wheel to be fitted on completion.

143SqnNacelles.jpg

Now the modified nacelles, the kit firewall was thinned slightly then faced and extended with thin plastic card, and detailed with etch from Eduard. The bottom of the firewall either side of the carb inlet was cut away and infilled with milliput, shaped to allow fitting of the kit U/C. The Tamiya kit U/C is pretty close to prototype in that the upper support legs and lower leg pivot beam sit hard up against the rear of the firewall. All you need to do on yours if you've not progressed beyond the last photo's is fill below your firewall down to the carb intake and shape as above. If you use milliput you can wet shape it and test fit as you go.

PB290274.jpg

Here's the U/C all painted and fitted. The completed U/C unit simply plugs into the nacelle once all airframe painting is finished.

PB290316.jpg

And as it was already uploaded, here's a shot of the finished model on it's base

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Thats nice work. I wont have photo etched parts and have limited time already so i ll just do it a bit simplier inside the wheel wells :)

Not much progress done here, just joined the fuselage and wings together and made the light, which i forgot to glue inside before completing the wing. I just glued plastic rod to the wing to make the "bottom" of the light to be not so deep, then i glued strip of metal from beer can on it and made bulb from clear plastic, then used some kind of clear fix to make the glass part. I m sorry for so short info, i m in a hurry, gota catch a train :)

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Ofcourse, while handling the airframe, the pilots seat thought its great time to go and take some walk around.. I ll glue it inside later, for now its better outside :)

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Thanks Jorgen :) At this moment i m still thinking how to do the framing inside the canopy. I masked the canopy to paint only the external framing and those lines which are supposed to be the internal framingi leave unpainted. Now i need to make the inner "cage" and not "freeze" the canopy ... so i m thinking what ll be the best way to do it.

So just a bit of progress, i did clean the airframe around and added few details to the bomb bay. The fuel tanks and front doors are just dry fit, i ll add some metal strips around the one fuel tank yet. And glue the tanks in after painting the bomb bay. I m planing to make some chipping there to the wood (its now painted by steel colour what i had in airbrush from painting the wheel wells, it ll be repainted yet inside the bomb bay)

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I ll be making all 4 bomb bay doors all new, so this is just placeholder, to show how it ll look after completing +/-

Edited by Wolwe82
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Glad to see you are still working on this. It's looking good so far. I'm still impressed by the level of detail you achieve - I was looking at the cockpit area in the photo above and struggle to see it as 1/72 - looks like it is modelled in a bigger scale. Keep going!

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mm its not framing like that, there is something like "cage", from pipes. Something like those rallye cars have inside if you know what i mean. I was working on it today all day, tried to take 0,7mm evergreen and 0,5mm leaden wire, drill 0,5mm holes across the evegreens and pull the leaden wire through. But the 0,1mm on each side of the evergreen in the joint area was just too thin, it kept breaking, so i ll have to find other way, or probably i ll have to simplify it a bit and do not pullit through each other (can use thinner wires then)

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Here is one of photos showing the framing inside of the canopy

mosquito_108.jpg

Btw, tamiya moulded the canopy clear part with one of the side windows moulded separatedly (there are two versions of the side window, one flat and one with "bowl". I dont know if it was possible to open the window? On real plane, i couldnot find any photo where this side window would be opened in any way.. i dont see reason why it should be as well.. its side window, ending on the top side, so pulling it back would not work... and opening it up to the skies doesnt make sense. Well, opening the side window at all doesnt make much sense, you have doors there to get in/out and on the top of the canopy is some kind of emergency opening window i guess..
So the thing is - was it possible to open the side window and how? If not, i ll simply glue it in the "closed" position (theres not "opened" position in the instructions though)

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Because the cockpit inner "cage" ll need a bit of thinking, how to do it, i continued with adding some details here and there. So i made new armor plate, which was behind the operator´s seat, it was possible to fold it back down, probably for better acces to the radio and other stuff. I ll glue this in the folded position - its simple evergreen sheet with drilled hole for the glass. I used clear fix to make the glass there. At the end it got some holder from wire.

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Added few more details to bomb bay, the tanks are still dry fit there. The cables at the back side (actualy it should be hydraulic stuff i think for the pistons (to control the bomb bay doors) ll be cut off and positioned after i paint the bomb bay. The pistons ll be added at the end, so i know how long should i make them, to fit the doors.

033.jpg

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many details are simplified steve :) but thanks a lot ofcourse :) And if there was anyone who would need any photos of mossie for some detailing, sure let me know, i have gathered pretty good "walkaround" from photos of real plane :)

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a bit of paint and chipping inside of the bomb bay was done tonight. I dont have much time to work on my kits these days, hopefuly that ll change in next days.. it llneed wash nside the bombay yet

034.jpg

Edited by Wolwe82
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Found this interesting snippet from an osprey book on modelling the mosquito - I can't copy and paste the test - but it might help when weathering the aircraft - see page 59 and the paragraph the starts "The nacelles, engine cowls etc"

http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=FvPNPBJ_NWIC&pg=PA59&lpg=PA59&dq=aluminium+panels+on+mosquito+wings&source=bl&ots=PKSSrJjSO5&sig=KJ3lfvtSTi18IV7FEcrIwlWUDwI&hl=en&sa=X&ei=pmFpU4O4EoPEOfzSgagK&ved=0CDEQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=aluminium%20panels%20on%20mosquito%20wings&f=false

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mm thats interesting, thanks for the info Jherek :) didnt know the wooden parts were covered by fabric. Well, it seems it ll make my job easier then and no need to plan that much all the layers. Honestly, i was just thinking about the "chipping on wood" because i m flying mossie in War Thunder game and they have usualy quite nice looking weathering on the pc models there:) But i guess it is quite impossible for the wooden surface to show up now.. :) Though the inner wooden surfaces ofc did not wear the fabric (i was doing the chipping inside bomb bay based on photos of real mossies). Well, good info Jherek, i ll read all i can on that page :) thanks

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Ok so i finaly decided what to do with the canopy (well, decided... i had quite only option left, because all the other options i could not execute good enough) - i made some of the inner "cage", which was not following the external framing, added one or two details on the "roof" (there should be more, but i noticed the radio or what is it at the back is like 1mm too much towards the nose, so there was not enough room for making other stuff - also iw as not sure if the stuff under the "roof" was all from war or it was just added to the mossie during restoration), and went for the surfacer phase.

Here is one shot before closing the canopy (i closed the canopy just by using white glue, so i should be able to remove the window after the paint).

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And after surfacer and a bit of sanding and polishing. Nothing too impressive or special, just to show some progress :) From now on, the mossie is the no.1 on my table untill i finish her :)

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From now on, the mossie is the no.1 on my table untill i finish her :)

Great!! That sounds good to me and good work so far!
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Anyone knows if alclad changed their recepture for the alclad II metal paints? Because i got new "steel" shade and it acts totaly strange now.. well, heres the storry..

I wanted to paint the metal areas with alclad II steel, which i got few days ago fresh new. So i airbrushed the areas, left it like 90 mins aside, after that i started to mask the engine cowling side panels, as these ll be left in metal colour. Me and tamiya tape arent exactly the best friends, so this took me like next half hour, maybe a bit more.

This is how the steel looked originaly before any further steps

Fotografie_0001.jpg

After that, i wanted to paint the metal areas with mig absolute chipping (for future "hairspray" technique chipping). I used this one straight over alclad aluminium many times before when i was testing it, and never anything wrong happened.. well, this time over the steel alclad II.. here we go..

Fotografie_0003.jpg

You can see the alclad II paint was taken down straight after applying the absolute chipping.. thats not how it should work, it should not affect the base paint..

Well, i thought ok, lets just paint matt varnish over the alclad II... this is EXACTLY what i did on my mustang, the only change is, on mustang it was alclad aluminium, here alclad steel.. So i started to airbrush the vallejo matt varnish over the alclad steel.. and after like 30seconds, this happened..

Fotografie_0002.jpg

Not only it turned into some weird dark shade, but it lost the smooth finish and now it looks like grainy crap...

So wonder what the hell happened... its exactly the same what i did many times before.. tamiya surfacer, alclad II paint, chipping fluid.. boom, alclad goes down.. ok lets do it safe way.. surfacer, alclad, acrylic varnish, boom, alclad goes crazy.. . :angrysoapbox.sml:

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