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Revell Zero Baa Baa Black Sheep - FINISHED


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I picked up this kit in a garage sale for the princely sum of $5.00 (US). It is the 1978 release by Revell of an AGM5a Model 52 Zero in 1/32 scale. At least that is what the instructions say.

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It was released to capitalize on the popularity of the Robert Conrad TV series loosely (and I mean very loosely) based upon the exploits of the VMF 214 (Black Sheep Squadron) based in the Solomon Islands in WWII. Pappy Boyington served as a technical advisor on the series but always claimed the series was fiction based a bit on reality. Most of the actual squadron members were not happy with the show and how the squadron was portrayed. I suspect the price was low as this was the bad guy plane in the series and not the desired hero Pappy Boyington plane, the Corsair. I have no idea if all the parts are in the kit. But the instructions are there and so are the decals. Both are a bit weathered and worse for wear.

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As far as actual combat scenes go, the series was creative and “appropriated” some scenes from the Battle of Britain movie and didn’t even attempt to change the markings from German to Japanese, let alone modify the planes. However, Corsairs were used used in the series and were actual Corsairs. But the Zeros used were modified AT-6 Texans left over from the movie Tora, Tora, Tora. So, this kit is a representation of the “Zeros” used in the series which were representations of the Zeros flown during WWII. So, any of you accuracy guys out there want to question how accurate this model is, remember what you have to compare it to. I thought about using an old Revell AT-6 Texan and putting Japanese markings on it for this project.

I have reviewed the instructions and notice there is not one single color call out in the entire instructions. Not one. The decals instructions are not separate but are contained in the final 2 construction phases. I would assume from the lack of detail in the instructions, this kit was aimed at a kid to put together in an afternoon, no paint and have it by his/her side for that evening’s episode. So, I will be looking to some other sources as to what gets painted what and may even take a bit of artistic license and just guess. Oops, just looked at the box top and found this very helpful paint guide:

“If you wish to paint this model kit, the following colors are recommended. Flat Black, Flat Olive Green, Flat Light Grey and Silver.” How can I go wrong now. Good luck kiddies, just guess what goes where. Next update the actual building commences.

Edited by snapper_city
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Jessica, how nice of you to join. I promise to leave it down for you always!!! I am about to post the first construction steps. The cockpit is a bit made up and a little bare but for a nearly 50 year old kit, it is fairly amazing. Hope you will stay to comment on the build. I always value your insight and comments.

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I know you will be surprised, but we start off with the cockpit. As mentioned earlier, there is not a single color call out in the instruction sheet. This kit was designed to be built in an afternoon so “We don’t need no stinkin’ paint.” So painting is going to be done based upon instructions from the Tamiya 1/32 Zero, the internet and some artistic license. The artistic license comes with the instrument panel and the layout of the interior. It is an interior, it has some decent detail, but it is not a Zero interior. The basic interior parts are the instrument panel, seat, flight deck, control column and rear bulkhead.

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The instrument panel has some detail on it, but it is quite soft. When you take into consideration the age of this molding, about 50 years, it’s not bad and has held up somewhat well.

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Nest to the instrument panel you can make out the seat that has already been sanded a bit to get rid of some prominent injection marks. The flight deck also has some detail and it is as soft as the detail on the IP panel.

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First thing is a bit of fiddling with the kit parts. I took the seat and drilled some lightening holes in it of various sizes.

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Next, I began a rough cut out of the bulkhead behind the seat to at least approximate a Zero bulkhead. (Sorry, not going to super detail this kit. I want a somewhat relaxing build and I think if I spend $30 on the amount of rod and plastic sheet that would be required to scratch build every kit part, it defeats the purpose and spirit of this build; take a cheap kit and have fun with it.) So I have begun to cut the outline out with a scalpel.

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And, this wonderful hole in the bulkhead, results.

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Add a few lightening holes.

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And then clean up the opening and holes with files and such. I dry fit the seat onto the rear bulkhead and flight deck for a check of fit. I am so glad I cut out the hole in the bulkhead, it will be so visible. At least the lightening holes look okay. Still need a bit of cleanup.

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Every part has its base color. Humbrol 80 for the base color of everything except the seat. That is painted Humbrol Olive Green.

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Next up a wash of Tamiya Smoke to bring out some depth and detail. Sorry for the too glossy pictures. Here is the IP panel.

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A fuzzy flight deck washed.

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Next up the IP panel gets some dials blacked out. And I notice I need to get my eyes checked as the picture is a bit out of focus.

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Same goes for the flight deck instruments.

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The seat gets a bit of weathering with some Testor’s Metallic silver drybrushing.

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Flight deck gets the same type of drybrushing along with some silver pencil use.

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Then did some drybrushing on the IP panel to bring out the instruments and highlight some detail. Even though the details are soft, for this kit’s age, looks pretty good. Hope I did it some justice. I’m really beginning to like this kit. It is such a contrast to the Zoukei-Mura 1/32 kit I am also working on right now. I like the detail and complexity of the ZM kit and the parts design and fit are superb, but this little ancient kit with its simple parts layout with detail molded in shows how two different philosophies can create quite nice models by different means.

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There is a world of difference in the quality of representation between 1960s research and molds and 2013 technology. I have placed the left over seat from my ZM build next to the seat assembly of this kit. There is a huge difference in size and shape of the seat. Or, perhaps Zero pilots just got a more roomy cabin than Raiden pilots. Picture is just for amusement purposes, still really like this kit.

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Added a little color detail to the cockpit.

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Next seat belts. I made these high quality seat belts out of Tamiya tape and wire. Gave it a bit of wash with Flory Rust and made a few adjustment holes. I do not think Eduard will be shaking in their boots wondering what happened to their seat belt business because of my expertly rendered and highly researched set, but it will do for this model when the cockpit is buttoned up and under canopy glass. So here is the cockpit with seat belts.

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Next up begin on the engine. Comments always welcome.

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That's turned out a great looking cockpit. When I saw the original photos of the parts I did wonder how they were going to turn out but they certainly look the part. Fantastic detailing on the instrument panel.

Interesting kit too.

Kind regards,

Stix

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When I first saw this model in 1968 (or 9, I'm not really sure anymore) in my cousin's room I was amazed. It was huge and impressive and filled with detail. Way more things to look at than the usual pilot onna stick which was the norm for 1/72 kits of the day. And the canopy slid back, too!

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In the States growing up, Revell/Monogram was king. I never heard of Airfix until I restarted modeling in my 40s. Even to this day, I like the old RM kits with their working features and gimmicks. Back then I really didn't pay attention to how well designed they were as far as interior detail went. Probably because my goal was to build it as fast as I could by breaking the parts off of the spruces. My only tools back then were a pair of scissors to cut up the decals, an old plastic bowel to soak the decals in and a tube of glue. Great fun!!!

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I feel I have been a bit remiss. I do appreciate all the comments that have been made to date on this build. I personally think this is a great and fun kit. I have the Tamiya 1/32 Zero and I know this does not even come close to that model's accuracy and detail. However, the fun factor in this kit just can't be beat. I hope it is showing in the way I am building it. Again, thank you to all who have made comments. I do appreciate them and you.

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Gasp! No aotake blue/green in the cockpit? Let me hail a passing accuracy police car ... yoo hoo ... :D

Great start, the detail's pretty good for such an old kit, and the price is definitely right! This is the kind of kit you don't worry about trying new techniques (scratchbuilding, painting, weathering) on, I see them as better learning tools than the super-accurate, super-expensive ones that end up on contest tables.

Looking forward to your progress!

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Gasp! No aotake blue/green in the cockpit? Let me hail a passing accuracy police car ... yoo hoo ... :D

Great start, the detail's pretty good for such an old kit, and the price is definitely right! This is the kind of kit you don't worry about trying new techniques (scratchbuilding, painting, weathering) on, I see them as better learning tools than the super-accurate, super-expensive ones that end up on contest tables.

Looking forward to your progress!

Ya know I was looking at the instrucions to the Tamiya Zero equivalent for this kit and for the cockpit, there is not any aotake cal out. There is in the wheel well and engine, but not the cockpit. Same goes for the cockpit in the Trumpeter 1/24 Zero. Also building the 1/32 Raiden made by the same company, it also doesn't have Aotake in the cockpit area. But you are right, this is not exactly an accurate portrayal of a Zero cockpit as this one looks nothing like the ones in the Tamiya or Trumpeter kit. But it is fun. It will be used as a learning experience for my use of an airbursh. This will be my third kit to use one. So far, I am hand brushing the interior and just airbrushing the exterior of kits. I also still like hairy sticks. Thanks for your comment and for tuning in. Another update in a few hours.

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Hopefully you read my post as tongue-in-cheek, I'm no WWII Japanese aircraft expert! And even if I do, I reckon what every modeler does with their kit is their own business ... it's a hobby at the end of the day, and it's their money and fun. If someone wants to paint their cockpit in dayglo red, my eyes may hurt but all the more power to them!

I do have the Tamiya 1/48 kits somewhere in the loft, and as a matter of fact I do have an A6M2 partly built right now ... in 1/144! (Sweet kit) ... there is a cockpit in that kit, barely!

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Eric my hat is off to you. I have recently become fascinated by the tiger scheme aircraft and done 2 tornados in 1/144 scale. That scale is such a difference from my normal scale wihich rarely dips below 1/48. I prefer 1/32 or 1/24. It is a huge challenge to my dexterity and the use of sausage fingers. If you regularly work in 1/144 I am impressed. Everything is so tiny. I do not think I took off my magnifying visor the entire build of the 1/144 tornados.

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Next up for play is the engine and exhaust. Going to put a bit of work into it but not any real extra detailing. There will be some visible representation of the engine through the cowl opening, but I am not going to leave the cowl off as per the instructions in the kit. They have it designed so you can attach the propeller and engine cowl without glue so they can be removed or put on at will. Once the cowl goes on, it will stay on. I have the Tamiya 1/32 zero for detail purposes and on that model different panels and parts will be left open. This kit will be buttoned up except for maybe the canopy. The engine consists of two rows of cylinder banks with an ignition harness. The first step is the base coats on the front housing on the front bank of cylinders (Model Master Grey) , the representations of the headers on the rear banks (Model Master Gunmetal), and the ignition harness (Testor’s Metallic Silver).

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Then the two cylinder banks get the lower portion of the cylinder painted Tamiya NATO Black and the ignition harness a wash of Tamiya Smoke.

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The top cylinders of each bank get a coating of Testor’s Metallic Silver.

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Next the coat of silver gets a wash of Tamiya Smoke, being careful to not get it on the lower black portion. Tamiya smoke leaves a glossy finish that I don’t want on the Nato Black layer.

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The two lower banks of cylinders painted Nato Black get a drybrushing of Testor’s silver to pop out some details.

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Then the cylinders are put together and receive a Flory wash of Rust.

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And then the ignition harness is attached to the cylinder banks.

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Next up the exhaust ring. I first lay down a base coat of Model Master Gunmetal.

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After drying, the exhaust ring is then coated with a nice thick layer of Flory’s Rust and left to dry for 10 or 15 minutes.

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Once dry, a Q-tip is used to dry rub most of the wash off of the part at the top of the exhaust ring and leaving more at the bottom end. Then a wash of Tamiya Smoke is used over that leaving only a hint of the rust overall.

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Now, another wash of Flory’s rust mainly on the ends of the exhaust ring is done and left to dry.

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And this is what it looks like after it is dry fitted to the fuselage halves.

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That’s all the fun and games for today. Please feel free to comment positive, negative or neutral.

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The engine is looking great. Are you leaving it detachable until the aircraft is painted?

Yes, I just dry fitted the exhaust to see what it would look like. I am not fitting the engine until I sort out the colors. That is a question that I need to pose, thanks for reminding me. In the TV series all of the Zeros were the solid grey color. This kit is supposed to be the M5 version that usually is portrayed in upper dark green with grey undersides. So, what should I do here? Overall grey like the series or the traditional green/grey associated with the '5 version?

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Since you're building to a theme (Baa Baa Black Sheep) and the kit is not super-accurate anyway, I'd vote for the grey.

If it bothers you in the future ("hmm, an A6M5 should _not_ be in grey"), just strip it down (or not) and repaint it green :)

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With the engine and exhaust done, it is time to move up to the fuselage and wings. Okay, I admit I am lazy in this next step. The engine cowling is a one piece affair. On top of the cowling is a very poor representation of an intake. I should have cut out the hole for the intake, found a piece of suitable mesh in the spares box and then insert it. I didn’t. The plastic part to be removed was a bit thick and I just didn’t feel like fighting it that much for the minimal effect that would occur. So, being a bit lazy, I painted the interior of the intake glossy black and just drybrushed Metallic Silver to represent the intake screen. This is what resulted.

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It is a half-hearted attempt I know. I should be a better person, drill out the hole and put mesh in. But, it is really late and I’m not in to that in this build. So, please forgive me.

Next up, the wheel wells. Remember the comment above concerning where is the Aotake? Well here it is. I have used Tamiya metallic blue to represent this. I do not want to get into the debate about Aotake and what is its true shade? If you have a definitive answer, start your own paint company and make a mint. You can also do Sky and Night Black while you are at it.

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After the Aotake dried, I hit it with a bit of drybrushing with silver to pop out the details and wear. The port side is drybrushed, the starboard side not for comparison.

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Here is a close up after it is all said and done. Now remember this is a 50 year old kit. Is this detail gorgeous or what? Is it totally accurate, beats me, but I do like it.

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Now keep this keen level of detail in your head and now compare it to the wheels. It seems the designers of this kit pretty well reached the limit of what they could spend on detailing this kit with the wheel wells and cockpit. They really saved money on the design of the wheels. This is the sad excuse for the wheels.

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While I debate on what to do about the wheels, I put the wings together. It consists of a one piece bottom wing and two top pieces. The finished cockpit is glued directly to some posts on the bottom of the lower wing.

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And while I am at it, closed up the fuselage

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And then put them together. Revell had a very nice way the wings would fit on the fuselage. There are hooks on the wing to positively join with the fuselage and force the wing to fuselage joint to be nonexistent.

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That is unless you are me. It does not matter who the maker of a kit is; or how many reviewers exclaimed how a kit just goes together without any filler. I have never made a model that didn’t require some filler either on the wing to fuselage joint or the fuselage joint itself. Just has never happened. And my record is still complete. At least it is only on one side though and the front of the fuselage.

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Just for grins, I have placed the 1/32 ZM Raiden I am building next to this Zero for a look at how much and how little has changed in the last 50 years of kit manufacturing. They are both at about the same stage in building.

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So, while waiting for the glue to dry and the filler, I set about the most horrendous task I can think of; masking the canopy. I am not a big fan of filling and sanding and I should be more patient about it as it truly does affect the end result, but I really don’t like masking canopies. I am sorry, if there is a commercial mask available (thank you Eduard and others) I will use it in a heartbeat. But, in the spirit of this build, I would assume the mask set for this kit would almost equal its price. So out with the yellow Tamiya tape, a new blade and my magnifying visor. This took me the better part of 30 minutes to do and is only the rear canopy section. I still have 2 more to do. YECHHHH. And, I only managed to slice myself once in the process. I can’t do another section. Have to do something else.

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I think I will tinker about on the Raiden now. Comments always welcome.

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Next update. I finished masking the canopy and thankfully the middle and front sections of the canopy were fairly easy to do. Don’t know why, but they were.

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Looks like it is ready for the base coat of paint. I sprayed the underside with Tamiya IJN Grey. And, I found this wonderful seam that needs to be fixed. Isn’t nice how the first coat of grey always brings out your flaws.

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So, I was a good boy, added some filler, some Mr. Surfacer and this is the result. Not perfect, but it is getting close. Looks like it just needs a bit more fiddling and it will be fine.

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So as the second layer of bottom filler is drying, I sprayed the top with its coat of IJN Grey. I decided to track the TV series camouflage rather than what I think it should be green over grey. So this bird will be overall grey.

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I am almost to the point I have an inkling of fondness for using an airbrush. It is much faster than my normal brushes, the finish is easier to obtain, but the set up and cleanup is a pain. I can see the benefits though.

Back to the model, need to install the engine and cowling to get it ready for decals. The exhaust ring goes on first . . .

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Followed by the cowl cover for the exhaust. . .

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Next comes the engine itself . . .

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And here it is all buttoned up with the cowling. I really like the way Revell tries to design their kits with very positive methods of insuring parts are lined up. The methods are usually simplistic, like notches in the rings, etc., but they do seem to work quite well. The more I build this kit, the more I respect how well they were designed given the time period and limitations of the manufacturing process 50 years ago.

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All that is left to do is extend the anti-glare panel from the cowl to the fuselage and here it is.

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I put a coat of Future on the kit to prepare for the decals. I tried my first kit decal and I had a feeling this was not going to turn out good. It took a full 4 minutes before the first red roundel’s back indicated that the decal was completely saturated. Normally with Revell decals this takes about 15 to 30 seconds. I tried to gently persuade the decal from its backing sheet, no go. I tried to forcefully persuade the decal from its backing sheet, no go. It wasn’t until I took a scalpel blade and separated the decal from the backing sheet that it came off. And the decal had the texture of a piece of cardboard. There is no way I can use these. So a quick trip to my spares box revealed I have a dearth of 1/32 Japanese decals. To the internet. Far be it from me to turn down an excuse to spend a bit of money on kits and stuff. The 2 quickest online suppliers for me, being in Texas, are Sprue Brothers and Squadron. (I did try a couple of local hobby shops, but most do not carry decals by themselves, especially 1/32 Japanese) I discovered there are not a lot of choices for aftermarket Japanese 1/32 decals. I ended up getting a sheet designed for a George that I think I can make work. If not, then I guess I will try to paint all the markings. (Oh joy.) By the way, could I just only buy a set of decals, of course not!! I had to justify the freight so a lovely new Spitfire is coming my way with the decals. So this build is on hold until the decals arrive. They should be here by the weekend. Comments always welcome.

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