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Avro Shackleton


Lars Befring
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There go my hopes of selling resin copies of my engine nacelles...

:hanging:

Good luck with your project, and if I can help, just honk.

Cheers,

Sebastien

Hey Sebastian!

Have you seen the finish on 3D-printed models? there is a lot of work before you can put it on a model... I wouldn't hang myself just yet :D

/L

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Just ordered a Shakleton from HLJ. I built one years and years ago when a kid and I guess its the same mould. Too many oversized rivets that have to come off but will try to replace some with a rivet maker very finely as the horrendous amount of domed rivets was a characteristic and point of humour about this bird. The Aeroclub conversion set minus wheels is still available if one wants to do a MK2. I am going to stick with the MK3 as the conversion set is expensive in relation to the model but is a good set, I've had one moons ago.

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Hi,

I've had a look at your post across on IPMS Stockholm. If you are modelling it with long exhaust pipes (as found on MR2, MR3, T4 and AEW2) you're modelling the Griffon 58 not Griffon 57. The 57 and 57A were only used on the GR1 and MR1/MR1A. The engine nacelles were modified as on the early designs one type of engine would fit on the inners, and one type on the outers - whereas later any Griffon 58 engine would fit any position, inboard or outboard. The powerplants were assembled as complete QECs at Rolls Royce Hucknall.

Bear in mind the Shackleton design information has never been made available, so all drawings - and models - are people's interpretations and nothing more. We at the Shackleton Preservation Trust still hold all 16 tons of Shackleton drawings, as purchased direct from BAE Systems in 1993. The best model so far in terms of shape is the Revell offering; despite the overenthusiastic rendering of the rivets!

Your comparison against a photo is a good idea, but it doesn't take into account perspective, or the fact that the photo was taken of the aircraft from ground level... so using as an exact reference against a line drawing isn't a great idea. Your photo isn't perpendicular, its at human head height - or roughly level with the base of the radiator cowling, rather than the centre line of the powerplant nacelle. The other problem you have is your line drawings are reversed. Looking at them from the front, left is right and right is left!

This might help slightly as the engines are more at the right level. You can clearly see the exhaust position in relation to the propeller shaft.

252177_490616570985104_330762649_n.jpg

You're fairly close with your measurements, but I'll get accurate ones for you on Saturday if you wish from our aircraft. Easy stuff to miss for instance - the front and rear propeller are different diameters.

For loads more photos go here:

https://www.facebook.com/avro.shackleton?fref=ts


Kind regards,

Rich Woods
Shackleton Preservation Trust



Edited by richw_82
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Sounds like a great project!

Any plans yet for how to prevent the thin parts warping? Thats my biggest worry when getting anything 3d printed; things like propeller blades are very prone to deforming over time with the materials I've tried.

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Thanks guys!

regarding thin shapes in 3D I generally cheat :D that is:

no 3D printer can print in "scale" thickness, most 3D printers have a FAQ or published requirements for the models specifying thinnest edge, minimal wall thickness and such.

so try to "bevel" edges so that they appear thin but supporting walls may be thicker, make things sturdier than they should be! a crocked propeller blade looks much worse than a slightly to thick one.

I always adapt my models to the printed scale, adjusting panel-lines, edges and walls... a bit more work.. but pays off in the end.

AND

since you have to do some post processing anyway leave the thinnest, most delicate stuff to the trusted old hands and eyes!

/L

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