Gisbod Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 (edited) Hello all, First ship build for me for 40 years! I built an Airfix Bismark when I was 7 - so I'll be drawing on my vast experience of that build for this model.. in other words - I'll need help along the way... I wanted a relatively simple, good quality kit to kick off with to see how I go, and after lots of helpful advice I settled on the Dragon Z-39 - small, but still 1/350 so I can at least see some of the detail. The kit is beautiful... Photo etch from Eduard.. This ship has a small wooden deck for the bridge which will be from Artwox (in the post I hope). I'm still finishing off a 1/32 Mustang, so this will take a bit of time to kick start, but I couldn't resist have a little go It comes as a waterline model - so the first job is hiding the join to the lower hull - I'm quite pleased how this turned out as seams generally are my Achilles heel Then a light coat of primer (Mr Surfacer 1500 black 60/40 mix with Tamiya Lacquer Thinners) My intention is to paint the deck and hull separately before joining to get a crisp paint line between the two - hoping not to smother it in glue in the process My main worry on this build will be gluing the photo etch railings - having not done it before - I'm not looking forward to it - I have bought some Gator Grip Acrylic Hobby Glue which, I've read, is good for this - as CA gets messy for me, but I am worried about its initial 'grip'. Anyone else use this? I presume you complete the build, paint the railings, then glue? Any comments, advice and general tips along the way will be welcome.. Thanks Guy Edited February 12, 2014 by Gisbod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jockster Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 One tip I can give you is to slightly chamfer the edges of the deck and hull creating a slight v groove along the deck edge which will be a good seat for the railings, this helps them follow the contours of the deck. not too deep though, maybe a bit less than a quarter of a millimetre deep! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gisbod Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 Ah ok - thanks - I'll experiment with that - is there a technique for bending the railings to shape? G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 look forward to your build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 will be watching Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jockster Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 No particularly special skills Guy, and a few basic tools. Have the following handy... Steel rule / single side razor blade or chisel type scalpel blade / pair of dividers. Files or sanding sticks. These are the basics which will tackle most etch work. I'll list a few more tools that will be useful over time but not essential.... You will find that a pair of needle nose pliers very helpful. I have a favourite pair 'Xuron model 450 smooth jaw tweezer nose' pliers. If you have a whetstone/sharpening stone, you will find it doesn't snag the parts as much as files or sandpaper! If you intend using etched parts a lot in the future you may want to invest in a folding tool such as hold'n'fold/etchmate/etch partner. The dividers are useful for accurately measuring the distance between bends! If you are not familiar with annealing metals, then do a little bit of reading up on the process. Easy to do and handy to know if you make a mistake. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxy Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 All very good advice from an expert,(don't blush Jocko ) Coming on nicely Guy, you wont go far wrong with Jocko's advice. Cheers foxy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jockster Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Cheque's in the post Foxy! :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gisbod Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 (edited) No particularly special skills Guy, and a few basic tools. Have the following handy... Steel rule / single side razor blade or chisel type scalpel blade / pair of dividers. Files or sanding sticks. These are the basics which will tackle most etch work. I'll list a few more tools that will be useful over time but not essential.... You will find that a pair of needle nose pliers very helpful. I have a favourite pair 'Xuron model 450 smooth jaw tweezer nose' pliers. If you have a whetstone/sharpening stone, you will find it doesn't snag the parts as much as files or sandpaper! If you intend using etched parts a lot in the future you may want to invest in a folding tool such as hold'n'fold/etchmate/etch partner. The dividers are useful for accurately measuring the distance between bends! If you are not familiar with annealing metals, then do a little bit of reading up on the process. Easy to do and handy to know if you make a mistake. Thanks Jockster I've just ordered a shiny new Xuron 450 I've already got an etchmate folding thingy & a whetstone sounds a grand idea. I have a love/hate relationship with PE - I think it looks amazing - it's just the gluing bit that always leaves me frustrated - I just haven't got that cracked yet I'm hoping this Acryilc hobby glue is the answer, but I still can't see how it's going to hold things in place whilst it dries.. Any tips on this would be great I've tried standard gator glue, but it doesn't hold things - so unless a part is sitting in place, it just slides around.. Guy Edited January 24, 2014 by Gisbod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gisbod Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Ps I've just had a really good look at the kit and it's beautifully detailed - but the instructions are making my head hurt! and I've already noticed a couple of mistakes.. This will definitely be more complex than I at first thought! I think it's going to be a major exercise in parts/painting management. Virtually everything will have to be painted prior to fixing in place - I can see the carpet monster slavering in anticipation of a feast! Guy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forlornhope Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Don't let it get to ya though, its a challenge is all . Focus on one area at a time. each sub assembly is a model itself. Otherwise you will feel swamped. Also start playing around with the other major kit parts and do a bit of dry fitting to get a feel for it. I'll leave the technicals to the experts I'm a bit ham fisted in my methods. Good luck with it and have fun. Looking forward to seeing how you go Cheers Callum 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jockster Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 As Callum says, have a play around and look ahead to plan your build! Manufacturers don't always get it right as far as the sequence goes. Most of us spend a long time building the model in our heads before we start so that we can plan painting and adding the etch. Build it as lots os small sub-models rather than one big one! Superglue/cyano is good for tacking etch in place while slower glue goes off. I use slightly thinned pva on a detail brush to glue railings etc., building it up in layers to form a good fillet! I also mix up some acrylic paint to a slightly darker colour than the railings and mix that into the final glue layer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gisbod Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 Hi, Just finished the Mustang so I can now focus on this build http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234954491-tamiya-132-p51-d-mustang-rcaf/ I'm dying to get a 'proper' 1/350 ship - battleship type with lots of extras but I wanted to see if I could cope with the PE first.. Hence this build.. Quite pleased with the initial results - the acrylic glue is quite user friendly, so despite not having the initial bite it's great for most of what I've done so far The Xuron pliers are a god send already (thanks Jockster). I need some advice on the next kit.. I was looking at a Tamiya Duke of York/ Prince of Wales with the Pontos detail up set? (Love the subject) Not a cheap option! But I believe this is quite an old kit? I would go for the Yamato as I love a new, high quality kit as the base, but I don't have the same draw to Japanese ships as the British or German ones.. Any suggestions as to the best quality options of kit/after market I could go for? The Pontos stuff looks incredible. Are the Academy Premium kits of a comparable standard? I guess not, looking at the price difference.. The Pontos set is £100 I've also been looking at the 1/200 Bismarck, I'd love to go for it, but it's frankly too big! Also, the Trumpeter base kit looks to have it's flaws? Thanks Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxy Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Well you seem to have got the hang of it. Concentrate on this build first, once done, you will have a better Idea on what you want to do next. So many make this mistake and have half kits laying around, ;oops; well that goes for most of us. Just enjoy the build. You have however taken on a very complicated kit. So enjoy the experience. Cheers foxy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shar2 Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 We have a selection of reviews on Academy and Trumpeter ships along with plenty of etch sets. Nice etch work BTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gisbod Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 Ah, Just found the reviews section! Doh.. Thanks, that's just what I'm after.. I take your point Foxy re kits, but I like planning my kits ahead yep, I'm not sure I'd jump into a big Dragon kit - I can't fault the kit, I'm enjoying it, but it certainly seems overly complex why use one part when you can use six? Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shar2 Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Having built the Dragon Scharnhorst I wouldn't recommend it until you have a few more builds under your belt. The build and rfi are in the maritime section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gisbod Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 Thanks Dave.. Just had a peek at the finished model - beauty! I'll read through the build thread in the morning.. Are there any Pontos reviews? Nothing came up in the search? Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prowler0000 Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 My advice? Go with the KGV. Reason? Well, the camo is a damn sight easier than the PoW, even the the latter has/had aircraft handling capabilities. Pontos also do conversions to either Duke of York or Anson/Howe, but in this discussion this is academic. Failing that, Have you considered Indianapolis? Good, Intermediate size, Interesting subject AND well priced.... (Apparently, the Academy kit is more accurate, so i bought the Trumpeter kit.... Well done, Dean...!) Or there's the Trumpey Hipper or Eugen..... Both are brilliant kits! Oh, did I mention: Nice work on the -39 so far!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jockster Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 That's a very nice start already guy. It's going to be a joy following your build! :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxy Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Great advice. One other if it don't dull your senses, is to file the plastic to fit the etch, this may sound daf't, but it looks better. Some etch is right, but the plastic ai'nt,check your references. You will get the hang of it I am sure. Most of all ,enjoy the build. Cheers foxy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shar2 Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Unfortunately we don't have Pontos onboard and they never answer their emails. I would recommend Mk1 Design too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gisbod Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 Little further on.. These teeny things are pretty tricky! This one, (which I can only see with my optivisor) has 14 separate parts! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gisbod Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 Another random question.. Is there a list of when the Tamiya 1/350 kits have been initially released? ie which ones are genuine 'new toolings'.. Thanks Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shar2 Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 Try www.scalemates.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now