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Filling and smoothing jet intakes


brianthemodeller

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Hi all,

I have the undoubted pleasure of building an Airfix Vulcan. As funds are tight, I can't afford any aftermarket bits so can anybody give me any tips on how to fill and smooth the intakes? I have some Humbrol filler and some Milliput but I have a mental block how to both apply and then sand either of them!

TIA

Brian

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How big are the intakes diameter wise? If they're at least finger size, a bit of wet 'n dry or Micro mesh wrapped around a finger will sort out the sanding. I then spray a couple of coats (2-3),sand again and then spray a couple more coats. Generally squared away by then.

I've seen liquid latex used to bypass filling and sanding, not sure if this is something you'd be up to try?

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If there is a small v shape where two halves of an intake join, I find ordinary filler won't stay in place; for that I mix 'plastic soup'. Its plastic sprue or flash dissolved in glue. Mixed up its a gloopy filler, applied in small quantities and carefully. Once dry and hard it can be carved and sanded just like the rest of the kit.

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Sussed it - applied the filler with the handle of a paintbrush and sanded back with wet n dry wrapped aoriund the handle of my modelling knife.

Thanks for all your help!

I will remember that!

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Follow me with this one, sounds complicated but very simple.

When I did mine, I too used a mix of liquid poly and cut up sprue. It makes a nice thick gloop so when the parts are clamped, some oozes out.

I left them clamped up for the best part of a week. I then got one of these sanding block/sponges http://www.wilko.com/preparation/wilko-decorator-foam-sanding-block-finemedium/invt/0010056 (mine were 5 for a quid from Poundland). I cut a cuboid off the shoulder of the block, 10mm square and about 40mm long

I then got my straight reverse tweezer (like the one here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-PICE-REVERSE-ACTION-TWEEZERS-MODELERS-AIRFIX-HORNBY-SQUEEZE-TO-OPEN-PF11-/200965091062?pt=UK_ToysGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item2eca73eef6 ) and clamped in the spongy bit long ways.

This rounded the rough bit, perfect for smoothing Vulcan intake tunnels. A blast of primer showed a couple of imperfections but applying filler was easy with a thin spatula and sanding done as above. The only tricky bit is the divider between the intake tunnels but I have a plethora of needle files of varying shapes. Just need a bit of patience

I then sprayed with Halfords white, dunked them in a bath of Klear 2-3 times and then added the engine faces.

I'll try and get a picture up later when I get home of the finished intakes

Chris

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  • 4 weeks later...

My method.

Take one of these

20140201_161703.jpg

Cut a piece off like this

20140201_162013.jpg

Place in self closing tweezers like this. This gives a nice wide sanding area. Needle files or sandpaper round a paintbrush can easily sand new grooves in the plastic

20140201_162040.jpg

I glued the intakes together with gloopy liquid poly with dissolved sprue in it. Clamped and left for a week or so. I then started sanding from each end of the intake using a little squadron green filler where needed :thumbsup:

My finished intakes with some white primer on

20140201_155615.jpg

20140201_161124.jpg

20140201_161041.jpg

I'm pleased with how they came out and will do for me.

Ta

Chris

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An alternative method for tight spaces like intakes, which produces less dust, is to brush Mr. Surfacer 500 into the seams, and when it's almost dry smooth it over with a cotton bud dipped in cellulose thinners. If you work quickly it won't attack the styrene. as long as the cotton bud glides around easily you'll be OK, if you feel it starting to drag, stop and wait for it to dry before carrying on.

I've used this method on Hawk intakes, but try whichever techniques appeal to you until you find one you're happy with.

Best of luck, (I'm very fond of Vulcans myself).

Paul

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