Steve Noble Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Well I've been away from the modelling desk for maybe 15 months or more. Just not had much time recently due to work and other commitments. I've found myself with a rare week off over the Christmas period, so hope to get this one well on the way. It's not such a bad kit from Fujimi, so much so that I've also purchased the Gulf and Fina versions to build in the future. Overall it's a fairly decent shape, not a lot of parts, but what you get will make a pretty decent kerbside replica, well enough for me anyway. Also included are a small set of photo etched parts and Cartograph decals, so for the price I paid (around £20) I'm happy I've been working to complete the cockpit and dashboard assembly first. All built out of the box, except for the addition of some seat belt hardware from Scale Motorsport. The seat belt material was from T2M. I've used a bit of artistic license on the belts themselves as Fujimi give no instructions for these, so they are not 100% correct. Once sealed inside the body they will be adequate.Rear exhaust pipes heat stained a little with the Tamiya setRear grille with some carbon decal addedGoing to work some more on the brakes and suspension now, so may have a small update later tonight if I get the time. If you have any comments, suggestions, questions or critiques then please feel free to post.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Noble Posted December 30, 2013 Author Share Posted December 30, 2013 Got the chassis and cockpit tub mated together now, so a few more pictures of that. All went well, it's a very nice fitting kit overall..The photo etch brakes are pretty niceThe engine bay is minimal, but you see practically nothing when the body is fitted so I just left it pretty much well aloneI'm finished for the day now and will continue tomorrow. I've prepped all the body parts so they are ready for primer in the morning. After that I'll be on with the body painting. More to come later... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphfan Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 I like the look of this, quite fancy one myself. Interested to see how much of the engine 'detail' that can be seen, they certainly haven't pushed the boat out in this area. Not into moderns but the McLaren is such an icon, I should have one really. The schemes are all pretty appealing but I would probably have the Gulf car. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Noble Posted December 30, 2013 Author Share Posted December 30, 2013 I like the look of this, quite fancy one myself. Interested to see how much of the engine 'detail' that can be seen, they certainly haven't pushed the boat out in this area. All that can really be seen is a little of the exhaust pipes through the grille at the back. All the top part where the engine block is located is totally hidden from view.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphfan Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 Thanks for that Steve. Got one of the Gulf liveried cars on backorder from HLJ last night. Will have to wait until it is back in stock now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madmonk Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 That's a nice looking tub. I've seen a couple of build threads on other sites for this kit which said the kit was bit poor on both the detail and the body fit but yours looks fine Steve. The PE with the kit is a nice touch. Looking forward to seeing more. Cheers, Warren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatbaldbloke Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 Looking good so far. Triumphfan Steve, Be aware that the blue on the Gulf car was a weird colour which was a mica with a slight flip in the top coat. The instructions in these kits are a bit vague where some of the colours are concerned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Noble Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 Got the main body parts into grey primer. All went well using Halfords Plastic Primer. It's not as fine as Tamiya but adequate for this one. The doors are very flimsy once removed from the runner. Care is needed to avoid damaging the thin frame. Probably going to use Zero Jet Black for the main colours and clear after. Whilst this is cooking off in the Mr Dry Booth I will work on the other parts that need finishing.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Noble Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 Looking good so far. Triumphfan Steve, Be aware that the blue on the Gulf car was a weird colour which was a mica with a slight flip in the top coat. The instructions in these kits are a bit vague where some of the colours are concerned. Thanks. Yes, the Fujimi instructions make no mention of that 'special' colour on the Gulf car. MFH state to mix silver into the blue to create a metallic effect but after researching it I don't think that's enough. The real colour actually has a pearl effect. I think the easiest way to achieve it would be to use a base layer of regular Gulf Blue and then over spray it with a pearl clear coat. That way you would have the blue colour and the pearl layer would give the desired shimmer effect of the real car.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphfan Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 Good tip on the colour, sorry for the thread hijack. Do you polish the Halfords primer Steve? I find a session in the kitchen sink with 3200 grit and a drop of Fairy liquid gives it a smashing finish to paint on. I can see the danger with those doors, although it is nice to have the option of having one or both open. Spent some time looking at the instructions on-line today. Looks like a fairly well designed kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 That looks rather stunning, I do like racing McLarens. Thanks for sharing your pics. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Noble Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 Good tip on the colour, sorry for the thread hijack. Do you polish the Halfords primer Steve? I find a session in the kitchen sink with 3200 grit and a drop of Fairy liquid gives it a smashing finish to paint on. I can see the danger with those doors, although it is nice to have the option of having one or both open. Spent some time looking at the instructions on-line today. Looks like a fairly well designed kit. Yes, I follow the same procedure as yourself with the primer. It does create a lovely smooth surface.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Noble Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 Very short update and a bit pointless to be honest as there's not much to see, but I've painted all of the main body colour parts with 3 light coats of Zero Jet Black base coat paint and also applied 2 thin sealing coats of clear ready for the decal application. Shouldn't take long with the decals as they are pretty minimal compared to the Gulf and Fina versions.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBanker Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 That interior is just fantastic -I can't wait to see the end result!! In fact, your build has forced me to swipe my credit card at my favorite plastic pusher from japan and get one for myself May I ask which tamiya weathering set/ colors you used to stain the exhaust? Is it as simple as dabbing a bit of the powder on the little triangular sponge and 'scraping' the part? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windy37 Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 What an awesome car , even after all this time . I remember going to a Donnington Park sportscar race in about 1995 when the short tail F1 was racing and being blown away by half a dozen road going F1's parked up and being swamped by spectators . The race cars ran in yellow Harrods red and white EMI and classic Gulf . Ahhh ..... Memories . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Noble Posted January 1, 2014 Author Share Posted January 1, 2014 That interior is just fantastic -I can't wait to see the end result!! In fact, your build has forced me to swipe my credit card at my favorite plastic pusher from japan and get one for myself May I ask which tamiya weathering set/ colors you used to stain the exhaust? Is it as simple as dabbing a bit of the powder on the little triangular sponge and 'scraping' the part? Thanks for your comments, most appreciated. The Tamiya weathering set is set 'D' Item 87088. It has 3 colours of Burnt Blue, Burnt Red and Oil Stain. They are a bit like pastel chalks and you get a tool included with the little triangular sponge on one end and a brush on the other for blending. Use the Burnt Red first and then apply the Burnt Blue over the top where required and blend with the brush end. If you make a mistake simply wipe off with a damp cloth and start again. Hope this helps.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Noble Posted January 1, 2014 Author Share Posted January 1, 2014 (edited) Well I made a start on the decals today which are pretty simple to apply as there aren't many of them. That's one of the reasons why I choose to do the Loctite version first to be honest, kind of to see how the kit went together and see any problems before I tackled the more complex Gulf and Fina versions. I made a small mistake on the large Loctite logo's that fit on the rear quarter panel/door area. Trying to be smart I cut them at the split with scissors, thinking it would be an easier way to fit them. The n/s one went on easily, but I made the cut in the wrong place on the o/s one, meaning I had to redo the cut and ended up with it in three pieces rather than two. In hindsight I should have done my usual method of placing it, allowing it to dry, then use the scalpel to slice it on the split between the two panels. Managed to fix it so no harm done. Live and learn I suppose. Anyway here's a few photo's of the decals in place on the body.. Edited January 1, 2014 by Steve Noble 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Noble Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 Small update with a few pictures, it's nearly there now. Can't master my new camera. It's very hard to get everything in focus.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBanker Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 That is very mean-looking. Such fantastic work!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F1 Insider Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 What camera (type) are you using? I use a DSLR which i then manually increase the apperture size (f-number). This then keeps everything (fore/background) in focus. The drawback being that camera shake when you press the shutter can be a bugger, so you'll need a tripod or other means of propping the camera still while you take the picture and either a remote shutter release or use the cameras shutter timer. Nice build!! I see a real BMW works one of these is going for something like £4mil at auction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Noble Posted January 9, 2014 Author Share Posted January 9, 2014 (edited) What camera (type) are you using? I use a DSLR which i then manually increase the apperture size (f-number). This then keeps everything (fore/background) in focus. The drawback being that camera shake when you press the shutter can be a bugger, so you'll need a tripod or other means of propping the camera still while you take the picture and either a remote shutter release or use the cameras shutter timer. Nice build!! I see a real BMW works one of these is going for something like £4mil at auction. Thanks, I've just bought a DSLR (Canon Eos 600D) If I understand the f-stop numbering a larger number means I will get more of the picture in focus so f22 would be more in focus than f4 (is that correct) What f setting do you find works well for models..?? Also what mode do you have your camera on with the dial..?? There are various (Auto, No flash, Manual, AV, TV etc) is there a 'good' setting that works well for models. I must admit it's a steep learning curve. Much harder than a point and shoot camera.. Edited January 9, 2014 by Steve Noble Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Big aperture (small f number) gives small depth of field (distance that is in focus) and vice versa. Small aperture will need a longer exposure (= slower shutter speed) than a large one. There you go - photography fully explained in 2 sentences!! Kirk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windy37 Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Looks really good . Looks like a Porsche 962 without the big wing on the back . Don't worry about the photos . Their fine to me . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F1 Insider Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Big aperture (small f number) gives small depth of field (distance that is in focus) and vice versa. Small aperture will need a longer exposure (= slower shutter speed) than a large one. There you go - photography fully explained in 2 sentences!! Kirk Lol, if only it were that simple. Steve: The settings are dependant on light. So depending on the colour of your model, colour of the background and your lighting, they will all have a bearing. Despite knowing the basic principles, my snaps are still hit and miss. I use the canon EOS 1000D. As a rule, i start with the highest f-number and work back from there and have the camera in AV (Aperture Value) mode. TV (Time Value) mode is where you can set the exposure time for getting things like time lapse photos and in M (Manual Mode) is where you can mess with everything For example: Low f-number Foreground in focus, background isn't. High f-number Fore/background all in focus Creating focus point using different f-numbers Fore and background out of focus, cockpit and dash is in focus. TV mode (Shutter time 8secs) Porsche Curves - Le Mans 2013 I buy 'Digital Photo' magazine every month, which has more than enough hints and tips to cause irreparable confusion! Lol. These are the basic principles, the rest is just messing about to see what effects you can create. Hope it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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