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Piper PA28-161 Warrior II


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Edit 18th April 2014 -



This build was originally in the Training types group build however due to work and other commitments progress has been very slow, so slow in fact that meeting the 4th May end date was going to be impossible, So I had the thead moved here to the WIP section.



Mark




My entry will be a conversion from an Airfix Arrow to Piper Warrior this is the machine I did my 1st solo in on 3rd August 1996 and probably half my PPL course in it too. Then later as an instructor myself I taught others to fly in it. It was operated by the Lancashire Aeroclub flying school at the time.


1052047M.jpg


Alan Mosiezny/www.abpic.co.uk



The build will go something along the lines of this build Cherokee 140



The kit shot:-


11630049236_07a9770241_c.jpg



Changes to make are:-


Reshape the wing outboard of the flaps


New nose based on the one made for the Cherokee 140 build


Modify the shape of the C & D windows


Scratch build undercarriage


Decals will painted on and inkjets


Scratch built prop and spinner



Plenty of home brew PE to be used



Roll on the 4th!!



Mark


Edited by Cheshiretaurus
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Okay Here's the plan

Most obvious difference is the wing this needs to be reshaped and extended I'm going to start by cutting along the chord line between the flap and aileron and also cut the wing tip off. The outboard section is going to be cut into 3 with the old aileron discarded and the remaining two parts reshaped to create the taper. The Aileron is tapered and has indents on the surface for stiffening so I'm going to create a new one using PE for the surface detail. Finally some plasticard will be used to create the remaining wing tip. I may use the old wing tip as a basis for this.

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For the fuselage I will need to reshape the windows with plasticard and filing and make the corners more rounded. The old nose will be cut off at the firewall and a new one made. The upper cowl (red area) on a Warrior is the same as on a Cherokee 140 so I'm going to use a spare cast from that build as a basis and scratch build the rest (green)

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The Stabilator on the Airfix kit is too short even for the Arrow 200 that the kit is based on, The same unit is used on a Warrior, it should extend out to the end of the red area on the photo so I’m going to add 1mm of plasticard to the centre.

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For the new windows im going to try the CD cover method and cut & file the parts from a CD cover to shape then glue them in place, once fully set shape and polish them with micromesh.

Thanks for looking.

Edited by Cheshiretaurus
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For the new windows im going to try the CD cover method and cut & file the parts from a CD cover to shape then glue them in place, once fully set shape and polish them with micromesh.

Try Ferrero Rocher plastic instead, you can use liquid glue.

ferrero_rocher.jpg

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And were off, At the stroke of midnight I glued the wing halves together

11741447134_0fd422546d.jpg11741038735_79cfd318fa.jpg

Right that's enough excitemet the first two (or four) parts are together, going to finish my wine and go to bed and dream of Ferrero Rocher windows.

Mark

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dream of Ferrero Rocher windows.

Mark

If you go into your local supermarket, you might be lucky and they'll have the Ferros on Reduced to Clear. Being the week after Christmas and all.

Will be watching the pretty drawings :)

Kind Regards

Dazz

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While the wings were setting I made a jig to to assemble the wings in, I created an outline of the Warrior wing from where the straight bit starts to the last rib, 158.8" on the real thing so thats 56.0mm, and cut it onto masking tape with a silhouette cutter. Quick spray of primer and my jig is acuraty marked out on the fibreboard.

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The straight section of wing is the first 29.0mm this was marked out on the wing an cut in a mitre box, This is only correct on the upper surface as the wingroot on the Airfix part is angled for the dihedral. 11752835926_a11c13f5cd_c.jpg

11752339803_7528a37103_c.jpg

Ive glued plasticard tabs onto the jig for the parts to push onto, also there are small strips placed under the leading & trailing edges of the wing to get the incidence right, I'll put thinner strips at the leading edge further outboard to try to create the washout on a Warrior wing. Thin plasticard tabs were glued into the recess in the wing to locate the other parts onto.

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Leading edge is now glued on and setting for a while.

11752860616_8ceed8df2b_c.jpg

Mark

Edited by Cheshiretaurus
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Removed the ailerons from the remaining wing parts then fitted those into place with more strips of plasticard between the partsas locators, Cut out a another piece of plasticard to extent out to the wing tip, using the silhouette cutter to make a mask for it to get this accurate, cut some rough slots into it to fit into the cavity in the wing and returned it to the jig to glue them into place.

The arrow is to remind me which side they fit.

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Once set I used 4mm of leading edge leftover from the cherokee 140 build to add to the wingtip and build up the rest of the area with scrap plasticard strips. The gaps will be smoothed over with Milliput

11760670945_2799476d9b_c.jpg

Edited by Cheshiretaurus
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Crikey! You're certainly going about it in an engineering way with all the coloured drawings and verniers !! Should be spot on at the end. Keep up the good work!!

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Away with work until the weekend, so going to design the PE artwork for the ailerons while I'm away, got as far as the surface detail. Need to design it into a fold over at trailing edge and have an artwork ready for printing and etching at the weekend.

Done a flap too so If I cant match the surface of the existing part I can repace the flaps too.11785605964_36b362243c_o.jpg

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Done a flap too so If I cant match the surface of the existing part I can repace the flaps too.

Mark. I'm prepared to bet that once you've done the aileron PE you'll not be happy with the moulded kit flaps and will replace them too :)

Just a hunch........

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Mark. I'm prepared to bet that once you've done the aileron PE you'll not be happy with the moulded kit flaps and will replace them too :)

Just a hunch........

And you will probably be right.

Change of plan at work today resulted in me getting home unexpectedly, suppose its better than the normal of going to work then finding your not going to get home that night. This means only one thing....get the Milliput out.

I've started filling in and smoothing over the gaps, building up the profile on the wing tips, still have a few more layers to put on I think, but looking good so far.

11804158924_1e60c023ec_c.jpg

A really useful tool for smoothing out Milliput with water is this, Its a T-Shaped aluminium strip with a bit of plasticard CA'd to it and the edges smoothed off, Works like a plasterers trowel. another one is the same Idea but with 600 grade wet n dry glued on. (but not with CA so the paper can be changed)

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Away until the end of the week again tomorrow, so more PE designing, but who knows, could be back early again and do more Milliputting instead.

Mark

Edited by Cheshiretaurus
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Yet again able to return home after work, so more wing stuff, Surface was deviating away from the desired profile towards the wingtip with a slight curve off towards the edges. So I've come up with a good way of smoothing out a simple curve like a aerofoil uniformly. Once some areas have set they become the formers for the rest, just press some millput on and move the wing around lightly on a wet piece of glass adding more water as you start feel resistance. rocking it fore and aft too to form the milliput into the aerofoil. I also found an article on the milliput website where a sculpturer accelerates the setting by putting it in the oven at 50°C for 30 mins, this is the min temp my oven will work at so I gave it ago with no ill effects on the plastic. Handy tip to remember I think

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Milliput leaves little gaps here and there so I applied a mix of Green stuff and cellulose thinner, to fill those gaps then sanded it off with the sander mentioned in the previous post.

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Ive given it a coat of Halfords plastic primer, Only a few minor blemishes showed up so quite pleased with it, A bit more work to do incuding scribing. Hope to have the ailerons on by the end of the weekend.

11826089235_28fdab8061_c.jpg

I'm thinking I might use the kit lower nose as a basis to creating the Warrior nose. This is it with top half cut off from a nose cast from the Cherokee 140 build, think its roughly the right shape to start off with, still will need to make a scratch built front though.

11826852196_d2ca034d93_c.jpg

Mark

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I also found an article on the milliput website where a sculpturer accelerates the setting by putting it in the oven at 50°C for 30 mins, this is the min temp my oven will work at so I gave it ago with no ill effects on the plastic. Handy tip to remember I think

Ooh. Might try that. Milliput is my favourite filler in terms of its finish and the way it takes scribing - but I hate the drying time. Probably best I try it on some scrap plastic first in case I melt it......

I had got as far as sticking a milliput filled piece of work in the airing cupboard....wouldn't have stepped up to using the oven without a push though!

Course. If I melt my little pride and joy I'm gonna be whinging :)

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Ooh. Might try that. Milliput is my favourite filler in terms of its finish and the way it takes scribing - but I hate the drying time. Probably best I try it on some scrap plastic first in case I melt it......

I had got as far as sticking a milliput filled piece of work in the airing cupboard....wouldn't have stepped up to using the oven without a push though!

Course. If I melt my little pride and joy I'm gonna be whinging :)

Tested it out first too myself with some scrap plastic, and hoped the thermostat didn't fail while the wings were in there!!

Mine is a fan oven so no hot spots with a digital controller and seems to give 51.8C when set at 50C, not sure how well a non-fan oven will work doing this. so watch out for hotspots if it doesn't have a fan.

Edited by Cheshiretaurus
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