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DreadZombie

USSR tank camo question

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Hi, a bit of a newbie question, here.

I'm planning on buying the Airfix JS-3 1:76 scale model soon. What Humbrol colour acrylic would you suggest for a snow camouflage?

Thanks.

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Hello Dread,

Much as I'd like to say, the Airfix JS 3 / IS 3 is not a particularly accurate kit. For a much better choice go for the Roden or Trumpeter version. I don't think you'll be disappointed.

As for a choice of paint, I can't get Humbrol acrylic's here, so I can't comment, personally I like Vallejo acrylics. There are several white's to choose from. However, I'm sure other members can give you a more satisfactory answer.

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Hi Steve,

Thank you for pointing that out, the only cons I can see from them are that they're different scales to my other tank models. I really like the Roden version, though, so I might consider that one.

Okay, thanks again. Do you know how the Vallejo acrylics react to Humbrol Decalfix?

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Hi Dread,

I can't answer for any possible chemical reaction, but the acrylics being water soluble, I would have thought were fairly inert. To be sure try the mix on a piece of scrap first.

I'm guessing your other models are to 1/76th scale, have you thought about the Milicast resin model ?

Steve

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Hey mate. Tamyia JA Green would be a close colour, you can use yellows to lighten it. To be honest theres no real match as they vary. If it looks good it'll be good enough

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Hi Dread,

I can't answer for any possible chemical reaction, but the acrylics being water soluble, I would have thought were fairly inert. To be sure try the mix on a piece of scrap first.

I'm guessing your other models are to 1/76th scale, have you thought about the Milicast resin model ?

Steve

Okay, I'll make sure I do that.

Yeah, I hadn't looked around that much before seeing the Airfix IS-3, the Milicast one looks great! I hadn't heard of them before, but they seem to make a lot of Soviet tanks, which a lot of the companies I've seen lack in.

Hey mate. Tamyia JA Green would be a close colour, you can use yellows to lighten it. To be honest theres no real match as they vary. If it looks good it'll be good enough

Hi Crossy. Okay, thanks, what about the snow/white colour part?

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2 ways(more but hey)

1st Airbrush JA Green(it laquer so use their laquer thinners yellow lid). Add a gloss coat, spray hair spray. Load up tamiya white(don't use enamels) airbrush the model. From there using warm water with a brush and tooth picks scrub the surface till you see the green.

2nd Airbrush wate over the model then reap a piece of sponge dip it in some JA green, wipe off most of the paint on a paper towel, then in a dabbing motion, dab it onto most of the area's exposed.

After complete for both ways airbrush acrylic matt varnish(or you can apply the decals remembering a gloss varnish when the decals), you can add a bit of variation by using humbrol white and Vallejo white highly thinned and greens to add contrast to your model.

I hope this helps and it's repeating what you know

Regards

Crossy

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1st Airbrush JA Green(it laquer so use their laquer thinners yellow lid). Add a gloss coat, spray hair spray. Load up tamiya white(don't use enamels) airbrush the model. From there using warm water with a brush and tooth picks scrub the surface till you see the green.

Okay, that's great, thanks again. Not using enamels is a benefit for me, I prefer acrylics, but I've never used lacquers before. What are they like? I mean, what are their consistency's, mixing, drying times and other similar things like?

airbrush acrylic matt varnish

Would Humbrol matt cote work well?

I'm pretty new to varnishes and am being cautious with using Humbrol products with other company's.

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Tamyia lacquers(its says on the bottle acrylics) dry and spray really good. Mix em at about 50% thinner:paint or to the consistence of skim milk and shoot away. Practice Practice. Drying time 15mins, though with any paint weather acrylic or enamel I let em dry before moving onto the next task.

Humbrol would work well but if you use oils or enamels wash's and weathering you'll un do all your good work.

So experiment with an old model or a piece of scrap plastic first before putting it on your latest project.

I've just started using a artist acrylic as it's cheaper if not better then my vallejo. Tip is to use a retarder which slows the drying time down, so it doesn't clog your airbrush. Also every couple of minutes clean the tip of your airbrush to stop a build up of dry paint. Also use Floor polish(acrylic) for your gloss coat let dry for 24-48hrs apply decals(when applying decals use a gloss coat as to avoid slivering) then after the decals dry I spray another gloss coat do a wash, paint some details then apply a matt varnish. then weather.

Does this help? Any other question just ask. Good Idea to do a WIP, so if you have any questions or needed advice just ask. Remember to practice, practice and you'll see your models improve. Don't be afraid to try new things

Regards Crossy

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Okay, thanks. I'm the same with the drying, unless I'm painting things on the sprue.

Is that just because enamels are oil and acrylics are water-based?

Once again, thanks for the tips, I appreciate them and I'll keep them in mind.

I think I'd like to start a WIP, the problem is, though, I tend to sit down with one model and it's about half done by the time I get up again, and then it's done by the second or third 'sit down'. I can definitely see a pretty big improvement on my most recent model, compared to my first.

A little unrelated, but that just reminded me, do you know if I'd be able to get spare Airfix transfer decals for a model?

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No problems mate, we at all learning here thats whats so great about forums like this.

Acrylics are water-based. Oils and enamels are a little different not too sure on the differences. Remember with oils to put em on a piece of cardboard so to get rid of the linseed oil. It helps them to dry flat and reduces drying time.

As for work in progress doesn't matter how much you do, you can also put your finished models in "ready for inspection".

There's some good scale model magazines, books and DVD's as well.

As for the Airfix decals not sure, haven't made one in a long time. There are after market decals or ask around on the website

Here's a link to my WIP if your interested http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234949388-dragon-135-jagdtiger-wip-updated-231213/

Regards

Crossy

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I haven't used oils before, with exception to enamels. Does the use of cardboard reduce the drying time of enamels as well?

Okay, I'd had a little look at the WIP section, but not the "ready for inspection", I'll have to have a look at that soon.

I've only really made Airfix so far (out of ease, really, in town the places I buy models from only have Airfix), but now I have better access to online companies.

I'd just checked that out before, it looks great! I love the jagdtider and the camo you've put on it.

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Definitely can't recommend the Airfix IS-3.....It's not a good kit at all. I'd recommend the Trumpeter kit as it comes with both the best set of quick-build tracks I've ever seen and a full set of link & length tracks too. :nerd:

http://www.onthewaymodels.com/reviews/Trumpeter/IS3prev.htm

http://www.onthewaymodels.com/reviews/Trumpeter/is3mprev.htm

I've found Tamiya Field Grey XF-65 to be a good starting place for GPW Soviet AFVs.....Be warned though, Tamiya acrylics are simply awful to apply with a brush, but utterly brilliant through an airbrush. :pipe:

Edited by Sgt.Squarehead

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Okay, what are the quick-build tracks like to paint? I mean, is it difficult/'fiddly' to get to the tracks behind the wheels? It looks great, definitely going to consider getting it.

Thank you for the suggestions.

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Depends on the technique you use.....For small scale AFVs I make weathering and painting the running gear into a single process, so it's not a problem for me. I build the whole model, spray it black (or white with black preshading), then add preshading/grime in a couple of browns. Then I spray the base camo colour allowing plenty of grime to show through especially around the running gear (try to miss the tracks comletely, simple masking helps but isn't essential) and add some highlights with lightened versions of the basecolour. Tyres are picked out using thinned grey-brown paint, metallic highlights are added with a pencil. :nerd:

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