Ex-FAAWAFU Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Abso-bloomin-lutely excellent all round. Incidentally, I don't suppose you have any reference material for the back of the instrument panel (ideally pre screens in cockpits, so Mk1-4 era). It is the one area that I've found no pictures of anywhere, and I can't remember anything about it. Eventually I'm going to need to do something convincing for my 82 Broadsword HAS2, because the bomb opened the nose up like a can opener! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynx7 Posted January 19, 2014 Author Share Posted January 19, 2014 Thanks mate. To be honest, there isnt much you can see behind the coaming. The Airfix kits coaming isnt quite right (I've mentioned the whole panel sits at too shallow an angle). You can see that the panel doesnt have the extra shrouding found on the real thing (I too haven't covered it either). I've highlighted the area in red. The coaming should pretty much go all the way to the windscreen so any detail behind generally wouldnt be seen. On the HAS2, you would only see the stuff coming out the back of the radar screen and the ancil instruments to its left (compass, airspeed and altimeter) As seen here on a German Mk88A I have quite a few detailed photos of the lower front cockpit bulkhead (in front of pedals) with all the stuff thats attached to that if youre interested? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynx7 Posted January 19, 2014 Author Share Posted January 19, 2014 As an addition. Having looked at a few pics of Broadswords broken Lynx, it doesnt look like the bulkhead has been penetrated but all the cabling seen is stuff for the radar and the other avionics in the nose? Not sure the rear of the instrument panel is exposed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Those moulded engines look great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Nice casting Tony, a pity there are a few misscast areas but isn't that always the way? You might want (next time) to add some fillets/webs to connect parts to each other, it may just help the resin to flow in better, then cut them away after they are cast. Did you have any problems getting your rubber mould out of the mouldbox? This casting and mould making lark is a real dark art, you have to think backwards. Time to invest in a vacuum chamber! MRGB looks good too. There is a publication by Wacker-Chemie who are a rubber manufacturer, they have 'A Mould-Maker's Guide' manual, which might help unravel some of the mystery of mould making. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzH Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Not really had time to have a good look at Britodeller for a while so have not been up to speed with your progress, but.. Blinking eck! That’s some detail work you have done there Tony! Really great to see Keep it coming… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynx7 Posted January 20, 2014 Author Share Posted January 20, 2014 And it is coming! Anyway, more work on the forward decking area. Both AC gennies complete. I made them both out of alloy tubing. The smaller tube coming out of each side is the cooling intake for each. Blocks of styrene will be where the wiring loon will attach. General concept of where everything will go. The three square alloy parts will be the servos, The large white blocks will be the hydraulic reservoirs and the little folded bits is where each hyd manifold will go. Gearbox almost there now. I think I'll chuck this in a mould too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Lovely work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerbannog Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Phantasic work! :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: Rene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynx7 Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 Thanks Mish and Rene. Bit more of an update. I've been jumping between the front upper deck area and gearbox and painting the engines ready to start the plumbing and wiring. Blue tanks are the Hyd reservoirs. The three white rectangular objects around the front of the gearbox are hydraulic servos. AC gennies in black with beige coloured cooling tubes and the hyd manifolds in front of the blue reservoirs. All just placed for now. Clearer picture of the fore and aft servo actuator General overview of engines, gearbox and forward deck with hyd. I will prob spray the forward deck areas their base coat then start all the hydraulic plumbing and oil pipes on gearbox next.....after I've done the same to both engines. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Very nice work indeed Tony, it's all coming together and looking increasingly busy. Keep it coming. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 That looks good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynx7 Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Engines pretty much complete. I think I'll start on converting the main rotors and tail rotors tomorrow....probably. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Hi Tony. You've been busy this week, it looks most convincing. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 that's nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynx7 Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Thanks Mish. Main and tail rotors started. RotorCraft blade conversion used. I will need to add the trim tabs, spectacles, ink pots and blade bonding leads later. As I do for all my Lynx models, I drill (0.5mm) the extension arms and where they attach to the head and fit a 0.5mm brass rod. This ensures the blades will remain perfectly rigid and allow for minor adjustment when fitted. I decided against using the RotorCraft tail rotor hub but instead cut the Mk7 blades off the hub of the original. I will use the RotorCraft blades though (pictured). Again, I've drilled out the hub and blades and this time fitted styrene rod as locating pins. I've also added the extra detail where the counterbalance weights sit and changed the location of where the attachment for the pitch change rods sit. I will need to carefully shape the counterbalance rods and fit little caps to them (this may be a challenge as the rod is only 0.4mm!) Comparison of old tail and new (old - counter clockwise, new - clockwise, ) Note the blade attachment, the counterbalance weights (crooked extensions with weights on the end), the location of the pitch change rods (leading edge) and the angle of the trailing edge at the root. Also note the fairing around the gearbox extension. This was not fitted to the newer tail (and not on the prototypes either). Note how the blades are attached to the hub and the less acute angle that the trailing edge of the blade travels outwards (this reduces drag at high Alpha and helps to reduce blade stall at the root. Same principal used on the inner trailing edge of the CMRB main blades). The counterbalance is now just a threaded shaft on each arm. And obviously the pitch change arms and spider beam is still on the leading edge but relative to the older one, on a different side. The brownish gunk emanating from the hub is grease - normal! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Very nice work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Stunning - the ECUs, MRGB, hydraulics, AC gennies... all look spot on. Even the HE ignition boxes look right; I am in awe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerbannog Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Nice progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynx7 Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 (edited) Thanks all. Getting there now. I think I'm in the last 30% of the build now. Just a couple of pics of the general feel of how it will look with panels open. I'm going to attempt to make little hinges so the bay doors and various panels can open correctly. With the top engine doors, I may make them so they can also be removed completely so the engines can be seen clearly. Screen sprayed black on the interior and the Eduard overhead panel fitted. And my usual trick of colouring the upper windows in permanent blue marker. Just the tiny amounts of DeLuxe Perfect Plastic Putty (great stuff) used to fill the slight gap around screen. I used wide tamiya tape trimmed to shape for the masking. I started trying to use the Eduard mask but just couldnt get on with it. And with her younger, uglier sister - my on-going Wildcat (really must get cracking with that soon) Edited January 27, 2014 by Lynx7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Liking it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynx7 Posted January 30, 2014 Author Share Posted January 30, 2014 (edited) Ready for primer. Top deck painted with a yellowy-white vallejo and I'll mask that part up once its dried as I will the engine bay area. The alloy exhausts have been covered in Maskol (fitted in place using a blob of milliput). I cut out thin shapes of plasticard for the cockpit doors and applied a bit of maskol to secure. I usually mask and place the doors to fill the hole but they are rather a snug fit (they have Eduard etch on the inner sides). The gearbox is just placed for effect for now and will be removed prior to primer coat and painting. If all goes well, I should have the first coat of primer on tomorrow night. Note I've also applied thin strips on the cabin roof to represent the sliding fairing rails. I've cut the runners out on that too so it can slide open or closed. Edited January 30, 2014 by Lynx7 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Looking seriously good there Tony, good luck with the new airbrush. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerbannog Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Interesting way to cover the cockpit doors for painting - I think I will copy this Rene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynx7 Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 I just used the cockpit doors as a template then spent a bit if time carefully trimming it to size prior to fitting and securing with maskol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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