Glue for canopys - what is best to use?

[NorwegianWood]

Hi all.

This is a question that I never really have given much consideration. In the past plastic modelling glue was the Britfix tube and you applied whatever was necessery to hold the pieces together. Now it seems to be a much wider variety of glue and cements. Could anybody please give me some good advices on glues to use on transparent plastic ?

[Richard M]

Acrylic or pva type glue, or if the canopies have been treated with Klear then cyanoacrylate.

[Nigel Heath]

^{GS Hypo cement is good, won't fog like CA and dries completely clear - it is stringy though.}

[NorwegianWood]

I guess PVA is the ordinary white glue, for woodwork and that sorts. I know CA tends to fog on clear plastic but maybe the coat of Klear prevents this. If PVA is the thing then I guess the answer is right in front of my eyes. In the RC part of the mancave I have a bottle of Pacer canopy glue. I just didn`t think it also could be used on small plastic models.

[Mike]

^{GS Hypo cement is good, won't fog like CA and dries completely clear - it is stringy though.}

I'm with him, but would say that it "can be stringy", but if you're careful and apply it as a single run, wiping the tip on the end of that run, the stringing is negligible - technique Nigel, technique!

I sometimes also post-fill my external canopy seams with a CA and black pigment mix using the edge of a knife blade, which helps cut down on internal reflections and can improve perceived transparency a little. It also helps improve the strength of the bond, and with immediate careful sanding, hides the seam too. I've never had any clouding using this technique.

[Kuro Nezumi]

I find that standard PVA glue applied with a cocktail stick then held down for a minute or more works fine. No fogging and is readily available just about anywhere.

[Nigel Heath]

I know CA tends to fog on clear plastic but maybe the coat of Klear prevents this

That is the theory but it can still fog:

OK, its not a canopy but you get the idea.

Luckily I still had access to clean it off.

I would say that PVA and GS Hypo are not as strong as CA - I do still use it for canopies sometimes (like open ones where the fumes can dissipate) - and its not at all stringy so my ham fisted technique works fine.

Edited November 28, 2013 by Nigel Heath

[avro683]

There's also Gator's Grip, easy to apply with a brush and it works well with etch brass too.

[Nigel Heath]

I was going to say that Gator Grip (acrylic) would be a better bet than the canopy glue you have - I think that stuff dries quite rubbery. I use it for lots of other things as well.

[richdlc]

another vote for Gator's grip - make sure you get the acrylic stuff though. Alternative is formula 500 canopy glue.

CA will fog canopies unless you do it right - for attaching etched parts to canopies for example, you could try using liquid CA and running it along the gap between canopy and etch part (help in place with tape or whatever) - if you keep air moving over the part, for example from a fan, it shouldn't fog the clear part....practice on some spare parts first! Also, Klear won't always prevent fogging (or so I've found) so be careful

Edited November 28, 2013 by richdlc

[Nigel Heath]

Isn't there supposed to be a low / zero fogging CA available?

Course there is Nigel:

http://www.shop4glue.com/brushable-non-fog-superglue-cyanoacrylate-super-glue-adhesive-cyano-precision-brush-on-bottle-20g-152-p.asp

I will conduct further research.

They also do this:

http://www.shop4glue.com/thick-foam-safe-odourless-cyano-superglue-adhesive-non-fogging-non-blooming-polystyrene-depron-007c-97-p.asp

Anyone tried these?

Edited November 28, 2013 by Nigel Heath

[Cheshiretaurus]

Ive been using humbrol clearfix for the past couple of years without issue

[NorwegianWood]

A lot of useful information there. I have to be on the lookout for those glues the next time I'm in my LHS. Or maybe the internet will fix it for me :-)

[Doug Rogers]

I've been using PVA recently and it does give a surprisingly strong bond.

[marky sparky]

Another choice is Clear Nail Varnish.

It's also good for attaching P.E. as well.

[StephenMG]

Roket Card Glue for me. Fab stuff.

http://www.deluxematerials.com/products_emulsion.html

[Tim T]

PVA for me. Formula 560 is good. I have never used Gator, but it is supposed to be almost as strong as CA.

[ben_m]

A more a easily available alterative for Gator's, is Revell's canopy glue, which is also acrylic- Contacts Clear.

Anyone tried Humbrol Clearfix- is it also an acrylic?

[Richard M]

Clearfix is OK, but I find it a bit more brittle than Gators Grip. It can also get very viscous and gloopy with age.

[NorwegianWood]

I think I'm going to try the 560 glue for my next canopy. (Airfix 1/72 Spit MkI) and I've found a few new webshops as a result of this question. Never a bad thing.

[Nigel Heath]

but it is supposed to be almost as strong as CA.

Its not.

I would still recomend you get some - its good stuff.

I hope we haven't confused you with all our slightly contradictory information.

the stringing is negligible - technique Nigel, technique!

I think mine may have dried out quite a bit making it even more stringy.

Edited November 29, 2013 by Nigel Heath

[AngstROM]

There's also Gator's Grip, easy to apply with a brush and it works well with etch brass too.

Easily the best option. It applies well, gives a strong bond and has gap-filling properties (which is a big help with lots of canopies/windscreens!). Clean-up is a breeze too. !

[little-cars]

The ones at the top of my list (and also the ones I stock) are:

Pacer formula 560 (AKA Canopy Glue) good grip and gap filling.

Gator grip glue not as much instant grip, but dries clear

G-S Hypo cement, some people swear by it, some at it because of the stringing.

Humbrol Clear fix a good standby.

Paul

[Nigel Heath]

Paul, you have a new avitar picture - of course I approve. I think your advice is good as well.

[johnd]

Formula '560' for me.

John.