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Help needed with decals etc


Rocketcrazee

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Hi

I have just purchased the Tamiya RB6 with some AM bits and pieces made by Studio 27 including the carbon fibre decals

Last time I built a F1 car was in the 70s so things have moved on a bit and this is where I need advise so

1. Would I need to use a decal solution when putting the carbon fibre decals on ?

2. Looking at decals it appears that they are replacing the plain black paint called for in the kit instructions,so do I need too put the paint on before I use the decals on or can I decal directly on too the plastic. Hope this make sense

3.Would I need too seal them with a lacquer afterwards

I have also purchased Zero Paints blue, yellow plus the 2k lacquer and I am assuming that I will need too lacquer before the kit decals are applied also would I use the 2k too seal them or plain gloss lacquer

I will be using Tamiya paints for everything else

Phil

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i have use CF decals before but think they were from scale motorsport not studio 27.. they took plenty of decal solution (mr setter and mr softer) to soften them up and a warmed (over a gas burner) wet cotton bud rolled over the surface to get them to conform. as always practice on a bit of scrap first. i just polished up the plastic and gave it a good wash, although i am sure they will go down well on a glossed surface, and may even require it if they are thinner than the scale motorsport ones.. some CF decals can look a bit bright and "in your face" an airbrushing with tamiya smoke will sort that out and seal the decals too. you can always gloss over the smoke it you want thicker protection if you are going to polish it afterwards. these are the ones i used, no smoke or even gloss was used

7039438395_48f399d2c0_b.jpg
DSC00686 by omgpainful, on Flickr

i have used zero paints ferrari red. it is a FLAT paint and HAS to be glossed after. i expect yours is the same. regardless, i would gloss the paint first. (as a general rule decals do not like flat paint and you may get silvering) . then gloss again after the decals are dry.

do not rush this process. if the paint and gloss and decals are not 100% dry in between applications or cured you will have problems like this. i think the lacquer shrank the decal and it peeled off even though it was sealed tight with the 2k gloss!!!

7280311430_f1039b3f2a_o.jpg
omg by omgpainful, on Flickr
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Ive done the rb6 with the acusition carbon decal set and the way inwnet was paint everything first then decal then lots of mist gloss coat and every thing worked ok for me my build is in the ready for inspection section if you need any referance, so good luck it does build into a pretty good looking car

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Hi Phil,

I'd be a bit wary of setting decals straight on to bare plastic as I've seen them peel off after a time, possibly due to the make-up of the plastic or some residues left behind by the moulding process.

I normally spray the area where carbon fibre decals are to be placed with a darkish gunmetal gloss as this can help to disguise any misalignment or minor mistakes.

In addition, I'd say the use of softeners is almost essential and you may find a hair-dryer useful to help the decal conform to compound curves or sharp corners in addition to the hot cotton wool buds. Just go easy on the heat and blower settings!

As Noeyedears says, you need a really good gloss surface to start with or silvering will almost certainly be a problem. I've seen people use a spot of Future under decals and on top of a matt finish (most modern matt paints are more of a satin finish than an absolutely flat coat) but somehow this has never worked for me.

Best of luck

Dave

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Hi

I have just purchased the Tamiya RB6 with some AM bits and pieces made by Studio 27 including the carbon fibre decals

Last time I built a F1 car was in the 70s so things have moved on a bit and this is where I need advise so

1. Would I need to use a decal solution when putting the carbon fibre decals on ?

2. Looking at decals it appears that they are replacing the plain black paint called for in the kit instructions,so do I need too put the paint on before I use the decals on or can I decal directly on too the plastic. Hope this make sense

3.Would I need too seal them with a lacquer afterwards

I have also purchased Zero Paints blue, yellow plus the 2k lacquer and I am assuming that I will need too lacquer before the kit decals are applied also would I use the 2k too seal them or plain gloss lacquer

I will be using Tamiya paints for everything else

Phil

1: It's not essential, depends on the decals. If they are going over a curved surface of have to bend into a vent or something similar then the decal solution is essential for a good finish. However on some areas that are simple and flat you can get away without it, but it won't actually do any harm to use it.

2: Never decal over bare plastic as the decals will adhere much better onto painted surfaces. Paint the surfaces to be decalled in a similar colour to your decals then you won't get any show through areas if the decals don't quite match up.

3: Again not essential, but for longevity it's not a bad idea to clear them to protect them.

Using the Zero paints is easy enough. The colour (basecoat) will usually always dry with a matt/satin finish and needs clearing to give the correct finish. You can actually spray the clear after 20-30 mins drying time (they are designed to be used this way) only exception is the metallics which I will leave overnight before clear coat to avoid any colour shift or pooling of the flakes. Apply one light and thin coat of the 2k clear to seal the basecoat and provide a reasonably smooth surface for your decals to adhere to. No need to go mad at this stage, just enough to seal the surface is all you need. After decal application and at least 24 hours drying of the decals you can apply 2-3 more light coats of 2k clear to finish the job and seal the decals. Polish after 24 hours drying to get the perfect finish.

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