Tips from the super coaches, sticking PE

[Ticketec]

HI guy's

I'm half way along on building the the Hobby boss 1:48 F/A-18A with the very comprehensive Eduard PE set.

I have worked with P.E before, but was wondering if there are any handy tricks for gluing PE to the fuse exterior? I have to do attach small bits like formation light surrounds etc, and don want to have to try sand around them if i get CA in the wrong spot!

Thanks in advance

Dave

[wyverns4]

Hi Dave,

I only use CA for internal parts, or if the part has a small contact area and has to take some stress, or if it projects from the model (aerials, etc). Otherwise I use a variety of methods;

1. Klear. If the part is not load bearing and lies flat (like the slime lights)
2. Varnish. Same as above.

3. Thinned PVA (wood) glue. same as above. Best to use those with an acrylic base.

4. Gator Glue. As above, but better!

5. two-part epoxy (i.e. araldite). For bits that require a more robust adhesion this can be applied as a thin smear and any excess removed with a cotton bud dipped in denatured alcohol. Very neat and tidy.

Have just realised that, nowadays, I use CA mostly for filling seams!

Happy modelling

Christian the Married and exiled to africa, a land without model shops...

[Wez]

I've used clear nail varnish to stick instrument panels together, it gives you a bit of wriggle room 'cos it doesn't set instantly and you can adjust the position, it doesn't take too long to dry and you can clear the excess up with nail varnish remover.

I "borrowed" some from my daughter (she wasn't too impressed when she found out), apparently, some nail varnishes are quite expensive so be sure to ask your nearest and dearest first!

Wez

Edited November 20, 2013 by Wez

[Sten Ekedahl]

I have used Humbrol Clearfix for this with very good results.

[Ticketec]

Nice, thanks for the tips guys.

Nail varnish being acetone based doesn't attack the plastic?

Thanks

dave

[Sten Ekedahl]

I've used clear nail varnish to stick instrument panels together, it gives you a bit of wriggle room 'cos it doesn't set instantly and you can adjust the position, it doesn't take too long to dry and you can clear the excess up with nail varnish remover.

I "borrowed" some from my daughter (she wasn't too impressed when she found out), apparently, some nail varnishes are quite expensive so be sure to ask your nearest and dearest first!

Wez

Warning! Nail varnish remover comes in different versions; either acetone or ethyl acetate. The latter is extremely aggressive against polystyrene, acetone is not. So be sure to get the right one. OTH the ethyl acetate version is an excellent liquid platic glue, works exactly like MEK.

[Nigel Heath]

I would just use thin CA applied with the tip of a cocktail stick. You should be able to apply the right amount to avoid squeeze out. If some does appear then it can always be dabbed off with a tissue.

Its what I used to glue these home made PE bits on:

And these:

[Niall]

I put a small amount of super glue on a scrap of plasticard or a Pringles tub lid and apply the superglue to the model or PE( if its large enough to hold) with a cocktail stick.

I also use an activator for small PE parts. This is the brand I use(I use their other products too) -

http://www.shop4glue.com/cyano-accelerator-cyanoacrylate-activator-kicker-spray-ca-super-glue-adhesive-non-whitening-100ml-27-p.asp

This sets the superglue very fast and is space filling and the superglue sets slightly rubbery and clear. Again I tend to apply it with a cocktail stick. It contains acetone so will damage enamel painted surfaces(I have not used it on acrylic painted surfaces)

[Ticketec]

I currently use CA, and I apply it with a very very fine needle, but there is no adjustment time, and some times if you take too long to place it, it goes off so Looking for other options

Thanks

Dave

[Alan P]

I would also recommend GS Hypo cement for smaller fiddly pieces, it's a clear sticky glue that comes in a tube with a needle point applicator. It's a bit globby and needs some practice, but it has two massive advantages over CA in that it is sticky, so the part is held in place until it cures, and it cures in about 10 seconds and dries absolutely clear.

I use it a lot in shipbuilding, but it's also perfect for the examples you have mentioned like slime lights and external probes.

Al

Edited November 25, 2013 by PHaTNesS

[AngstROM]

I found this bloke's piece (http://wwwairloungepr.blogspot.co.uk/) quite helpful -you have to scroll down a bit, under the Typhoon malarkey to 'Etch Your Way To Perfection'.

Although I've used p/e stuff for a while, I still got some useful tips there: the vinyl toothpicks are a real boon. Also, a #20 medical hypodermic needle (just the needle, no the whole thing! -ask at your pharmacy) is good for applying cyano with some control and it holds a little more closer to the tip than a plain toothpick.

As to removing excess glue, Gator's Grip is easy to wipe away while still wet; I wouldn't bother sanding cyano but let it dry and you can very gently scrape it off with a scalpel point -usually it just sort of flakes off.

Just handle the stuff like it was tin foil, and keep plenty of obscenities handy!

[Ticketec]

Thanks guys for all the responses

Lot's of stuff to try out now

Thanks

dave