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Aurora's Super Spy Car: James Bond's DB5 wannabe


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Nigel, it was acrylic paint, supposed to clean up with water. (MSDS: http://www.testors.com/media/document/MS.MMACRYL.060812.pdf )

Everything else cleaned up fine, it was only a few spots inside the cup

I only realized once I had started that I didn't have acrylic thinners, only enamel thinners. I got 99.9% of the stuff cleaned up, but it just bugs me that for some reason I just can't get the last couple of dots to get out of the cup

Edited by hendie
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Not all acrylics clean up that well with water, some react better with solvents like IPA, I have not used Testor's paints but I know Tamiya acrylics are like this. I have heard that failing all else, cellulose thinners or Mr Color Thinner will clean out just about anything.

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So, yesterday we left off with a foray into the world of molding and casting. How did it go ? Well, results hall follow. My body clock wasn't wound up yesterday and 12 to 18 hours did not take me to Monday evening (in case you had noticed)

Late last night I cracked open the mold. I discovered that even although I had tacked the white walls down with superglue that some silicone had leaked between the parts and the styrene card I had used as backing.

In this picture you can see that as I removed the parts, the silicone was tearing slightly around the edges. In this photo I have already removed one white wall, one over-rider, and the small tube.


Thankfully, the rough tearing of the silicone was not an issue in this instance as this is the rear face of the parts, and the back edge of the white walls shall be completely hidden by the tire. (Save!)

The over-riders shall be sanded so that shall remove any flash there.

I called it a day at that point even although I was keen to see what quality of parts I could produce.

This morning, it was load up with coffee and head back down to the basement.

I prepared the mold by giving it a light dust of talcum powder (as per the instructions), and then blowing the excess off the mold. I gave the mold a quick 15 seconds in the microwave (again, as per the instructions). While the mold was microwaving, I poured parts A & B and quickly mixed them.

Then it was gently pour the resin mix into the mold, trying not to create any bubbles, or air entrapment. There's not a lot of working time, so you have to be prepared with everything at hand.

I am not sure how critical the microwave step is but the instructions recommend it, especially for small parts. I might try it again without that particular step just to see what happens. I have my parts now so it doesn't matter if the mold is damaged in the process.


I could have made a better job with the mold to prevent spillage, but I was in a rush, and it didn't really matter for this.

After a few minutes, the resin changes color as it sets... cue blurry photo.


According to the instructions, you can de-mold after about 10 minutes. So I headed off to the supermarket to pick up some things for this mornings breakfast, just to make sure I gave it plenty time.

After I arrived back, the resin had gone off completely, so it was a very gentle de-molding process. The resin still seemed a little bit flexible, but I was now sure how resilient it was going to be, so bit by bit, I peeled the silicone away from the resin until I had separated the edges all around. Then very, very gently, I eased the resin out of the silicone and revealed this.....


Excellent result! - not an air bubble to be seen anywhere! - And good definition on the parts.

The next job was to separate the parts. Using a sharp knife and my razor saw, I cut out the individual pieces. One thing I was not sure about was how easy it would be to remove the small tube from the rear of the over-riders. As it turned out, it was relatively straight forward.

I cut the resin along the length of the tube on each side on the front face. Then on the rear face, I made small slits to join up the cuts I had made from the front. I found I could then gently pop out the tube from each over-rider. I have a little bit of flash there, but nothing to worry about and it is easily removed.


I wasn't sure how ready the resin would be for sanding operations but since I had two white walls and only needed one, I thought I'd give it a try.

Patience was the key - not too heavy on the pressure, not to fast, and keep checking along the way. I had a slight difference in thickness of the resin on the back side, so I wanted to try and even that out before I hit the part itself.

After about 5 minutes gentle sanding the part came away from the resin block. Here it is shown beside an original white wall.


I noticed that the part I just made is ever so slightly thinner than the original part, but again, this is not an issue as I can pack it out when fitted to the tire so the front face is flush with the tire wall. I am sure there will be some shrinkage factor in the resin but I doubt it wouldl make that much difference in parts with as little volume as these.

Job Done !!!

I am very pleased with the results, and can recommend the Alumilite resins and silicone. Very easy to use, and I can see me using this a lot more in the future on other projects.

One thing I would try and do in future is build some support structure inside the mold, as the silicone is VERY flexible when set. Thankfully, it did not impact these parts which are pretty small, but anything larger would definitely require some support.

And to conclude today's episode of molding for beginners... here is a shot of an original white wall, and my newly manufactured part, fitted to a couple of tires.


Very pleased I am with this mornings work!

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Well, since we are on the subject of wheels and tires, I took the opportunity to attack the wheels before painting.

I have seen several comments on forums about one thing that always seems to be missing from wheels is the inflation valve. So, out with the pin vise, select a small drill bit and hey presto! we have the required hole...


Which, when fitted with a Ø0.7mm stainless steel rivet....


Looks remarkably like a tire inflation valve!

I shall alclad the wheels before fitting the rivets, and may even attempt to paint the shaft of the rivet black.

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You have some very nice cast parts there hendie, no wonder you are pleased. That casting kit is looking more and more interesting. I am intrigued by the microwave step - I have never heard of the like - any idea what its supposed to do? My set up is just the opposite to this, I use a silicone putty to make moulds which sets in about ten minutes and my resin takes a good day to cure. I also like the change from clear to opaque as it cures, its a good visual indicator.

Which, when fitted with a Ø0.7mm stainless steel rivet....

And you are using metric, this day just gets better and better.

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I picked it up from Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Alumilite-Corp-Mini-Casting-Kit/dp/B0054IS6KY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388254873&sr=8-1&keywords=Alumilite+Mini+Casting+Kit

It's not the most cost effective way to purchase all the components, but it had all I needed in one kit. I could have got more "value for money" but I would have spent a lot more than $30 to get everything. This has got enough resin and silicone to allow me to finish the DB5, and I can pick up more resin etc when and as I need it.

Hobby Lobby stores here in the US stock that same kit, but i don't recall the price offhand.

Edited by Space Ranger
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I read up on a few products before I committed to buy and the Alumilite products seem to get good reviews from everyone, and now I understand why.

Al it says in the instructions is to microwave for 1 minute per pound of rubber, supposedly because a preheated mold will allow resin to cure properly, especially when casting small or thin parts

(bold type is word for word from their instruction sheet)

I checked Amazon.co.uk and it didn't show up there, but I am sure you could find a supplier on ebay

Hobby Lobby stores here in the US stock that same kit, but i don't recall the price offhand.

I think they were one of the cheaper suppliers. Now that I have had experience with the stuff, I feel confident in buying resins and silicone from whichever supplier is cheapest now

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The rest of today's progress was a bit slow, after the progress that was made with molding parts this morning.

Most of the day was spent preparing, in as much as I could, the parts I intend to alclad later. Here is a small selection. All I could do with the wheels was strip the chrome and hope for the best - there was no way I could attempt to try and polish anything in there.


And after another (troublesome and problematic) spraying session....


Everything seems to be fine, but I did find when I was cleaning the airbrush afterwards that I had a lot of paint build up on the needle.. (post in the Airbrush forum if anyone wants to take a shot at helping out.... http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234952489-paint-drying-on-needle-during-spraying/?p=1500424

Now, on with the rest of the clean up!

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And here is today's last update, again not much, but probably kind of important (if we want Mr Bond to be able to drive his car!).

While waiting on paint drying I looked around for the next task. From previous dry fits I knew that the position of the gear stick was too far forward and had to be moved back a touch, even although there wasn't much room to actually do that.

However, I thought I would try fitting Mr Bond in his seat and see how close or how far he was gong to be from the gearstick.

At first glance, it doesn't look too bad. If I reposition the stick a touch further back and angle the stick itself, it looks like it may reach his hand - or very close to it, which is good enough.


And then I thought - how well does he hold the steering wheel? Let me just stick his arm on and we'll see......


Not to well apparently. The rotation of his hand seems to indicate that his arm should be resting on top of the steering wheel - absolutely no way. The wheel is still a good quarter inch or more away from his hand. Some surgery is required....

My first thought was that he could hold the steering wheel from the side - that meant rotating his hand.... Off with his hand!


And then further examination discover that even by rotating his hand, he looked more like he was trying to open the door than he was guiding the car!

Okay then, surgery number two coming up - cut his arm at the elbow!


Mr Bonds' hand was then grafted back on to his forearm at the (hopefully) correct angle.


Of course, surgery as extensive as this usually requires that the patient have a pin inserted into the wound....


We can then offer the forearm up to the rest of the arm to see whether our hand grafting operation was a success. The doctor thinks it won't be too bad when finished.


The surgeon's old fall back - blu-tac was used throughout the operation to check the patients progress.....


A slight angle was required in the pin in order to allow Mr Bond to fully articulate his appendage and actually reach the steering wheel.


Some wound packing was applied to the damaged area....


And Mr Bond was placed in the recuperation position for the rest of this evening....


The nurse shall be in tomorrow to clean up the wound and change dressings if required

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hendie, the mutilation you are inflicting on the poor, innocent Mr Bond indicates the workings of quite a sick and deranged mind. I think you need to seek out some good, professional help. (g-usa can probably make a recommendation for a small fee).

BTW, Mr Bond looks like he is a close relative of Morph from Vision On. Good luck with him.

Good Night,


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Glad to see the surgery went well and James is making a full recovery, M will be pleased.

Reminds me of years ago when I used to make military dioramas. Used to have a bench full of Tamiya 1/35 figures chopped up and often ended up with soldiers with British bodies and German legs/arms and vice versa!

I'm with Nigel on wishing you good luck on the painting phase....


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Another suggestion. The head, well, the face in particular, seems to look quite problematic. Could be worth swapping heads with another 1/24 figure?

This guy does some nice figures in resin,


Even a seated driver although it is supposed to be Nicholas Cage, I think.


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I shall definitely need to have a think on this.

I was set on using the original figures as they show something of the origins of the kit and add a degree of quaintness.

The issue I see is that if I add decent heads, then the bodies are going to look really dreadful, whereas, if I use the originals, then I have my excuse all set for the awful paint job I am no doubt about to inflict upon them.

... but I may purchase a head or two just to see if I can actually paint them with any success

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Come on hendie, you have done a fantastic job on the car, you can't let it all down with some awful manikin like figures. I appreciate what you are saying about the original quaintness but there is a limit to which you can expect your audience to stretch credulity. Please give the human element of this build the best shot you can. Just my thoughts.


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I am scouring ebay as I write (almost). I have found a few possibilities, we'll see how it turns out.

I am thinking this is one possibility - http://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-Unpainted-DIY-Fun-Toy-Project-Model-Train-People-Figures-1-25-G-Scale-NEW-/330719350231?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item4d0068cdd7 there's got to be two heads there I can use!

Of course there's always the age old question... Is Aurora's 1/25 scale the same as everyone else's 1/25 scale?

Steve, I checked that site and there are a few items that look as if they would do, however, I really do not fancy paying €3 for a head (actually €15 minimum order) and then €30 for postage. That's a lot more than I paid for the kit to begin with

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I found the Airfix 'Bond' figure the other day in a spares box.

Not much better than the one you have TBH.

If you look on youtube I remember a how to on sculpting

figures. Heads/Faces in particular. It didn't look that difficult

and you could use what you have as the base, Maybe?

Save money & learn new skills at the same time? Why not?


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Pete, I was actually thinking the very same thing myself last night.

I also have the Airfix Bond DB5 and the difference in size between the Airfix and the Aurora figures is quite noticeable.

I think I shall try and lay my hands on some modelling clay and have a go myself - could be fun... or very embarrassing!

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Sows ear and silk purse are the phrases that spring to mind here! Finally caught up on your posts since before Xmas and all I can say is wow! The transformation is incredibly impressive! The difference in the windows is particularly impressive...

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Well, we're into the new year and back at work.

I haven't had much time in the basement this week so not much of an update I'm afraid. - and what update there is... is pretty terrible

Following Pete's suggestion (and my "oh!" moment) I thought I would try my hand at sculpting the heads - I mean, how hard could it be?

Well, I soon found out it was very difficult indeed. I started off with modelling in blu-tac. Of course, the more you handle it, the softer it becomes, and the more difficult to sculpt and keep features in place.

After several attempts with blu-tac, this was my best effort.... urghhhh


It may be slightly better than the kit item (I remain to be convinced!) but certainly not worth swapping over by any means.


Then I remembered that my recent purchase of a molding kit came complete with modeling clay... off I went and dug it out. It was pretty much the same as blu-tac... very soft after a few moments handling. In fact, it was even the same color as blu-tac.

Anyways, I had a few attempts, but it was a wash out.

Then the thought struck me that it may be because I am handling the stuff in my sweaty grubby digits - what if I just attempted to model the front of the heads? and left the stuff sticking on a board?

Well, that went slightly better, or so I thought.... then I took a photo and really saw it close up... awful!


I believe my sculpting days are over. My fingers are about as dexterous as pigs t*ts.

I now have to decide whether to stick with the kit parts or whether to purchase something off the interwebby in the hope that whatever arrives is the right size.

It is remarkably difficult to source reasonably priced 1/24 scale male figures, or heads, even on the interwebby. Now if I wanted loose women in seductive poses I am spoiled for choice, Don't even ask what they've done to poor Lily from the Munsters, but a standard male figure? - They're either crap looking or very expensive.

In other fronts, I spent a few hours sanding and scribing (my first attempts at scribing). After all the sanding and shaping I've done in the last few weeks has meant that some of the kit panels have lost definition.


Well, the sanding was fine, but my scribing is a mess... really!

I am really not happy with the right hand side of the bonnet here. I had a couple of stray scratches but even the main groove is all over the place.


I may have to invest in a decent scribing tool - I like the looks of the one from UMM-USA.

The only other update I have is that I have attempted to spray alclad chrome for the first time. I think it went okay, but I'll know better once it's all cured and I can take a closer look.


I have to say that it seemed a bit easier than I anticipated. I think my biggest issue at the moment is control of the airbrush - I need more practice to control the air/paint mix better.

It was easier making a Dalek from scratch than it is putting this darned kit together.

Mojo, Mojo, wherefore art thou Mojo??? do not desert me in this hour of need!

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Is this a self portrait hendie? If it is your nearest and dearest have my sympathies:


Actually these are pretty good, better than the kit offering, presumably made by a professional:


Don't be too hard on yourself, I think figure painitng, let alone sculpting is one of the most difficult modelling tasks there is. It is not something I plan to take on, pretty much ever.

Now if I wanted loose women in seductive poses I am spoiled for choice

Now, who does not want such things?

With the scribing what guide and tool were you using? This job is impossible with out the right kit but with the right tools it becomes almost easy. That nonsense saying about a poor workman blaming his tools is utter tosh, you have to have the right stuff. I mean they can write words on human hairs and move individual atoms these days, it just needs the right equipment.

On your airbrush, is it a double action one?

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