Aurora's Super Spy Car: James Bond's DB5 wannabe

[Nigel Heath]

I'm sure he'll be around again soon, though for a lawyer, he does seem to work a lot - I thought those guys did nothing but sit on their backsides and twiddle their thumbs. Maybe G is the exception

Come on, don't be so naïve, all he does all day is surf Britmodeller looking at our build threads.

I don't know how he makes his business work at all.

[Space Ranger]

hendie, you are doing some fantastic work on this model, I am just a bit sorry that it is not being more appreciated by the wider BM comunity.

It is appreciated; we're just speechless in awe!

[Nigel Heath]

But it has to be said that I am looking forward to sinking my teeth into one or two of those AA steaks - yumm..

Good night for now and have a brilliant Christmas (not one of those supper naff, PC "happy holiday" US crap type things),

Cheers,

Nigel

Edited December 24, 2013 by Nigel Heath

[hendie]

It is appreciated; we're just speechless in awe!

thanks for the kind comments

hopefully "awe" won't turn to laughter as I tackle the more awkward and difficult parts of this model.

[Nigel Heath]

Hendie, tonight my mum, dad and sister wanted to watch some dross on the telly so I used those otherwise wasted hours of my life to read through your entire build thread. Unfortunately the phone signal is not that good out in the wild Staffordshire countryside and most of the pictures did not download so I had to use my memory and imagination to fill in the details.

Do you have a better grasp on the weathering process now?

As you can see, I am getting far more proficient with my new phone now.

If I can post photos on BM then a little phone was not going to phase me for long.

Happy Christmas hendie

Nigel

Edited December 25, 2013 by Nigel Heath

[hendie]

I think I understand the process.. it's just putting it into practice that's the issue.

what I really need is a scrap/spare/offcast model to practice weathering techniques on.

Happy Xmas Nigel

[HOUSTON]

Pretty Impressive work ..

[hendie]

Thanks houston, I just hope I can keep it up. There is still a lot to do to get this model under control

[hendie]

Not much of an update today, but a small amount is better than none at all.

Continuing with the ejector roof panel, in the last installment I had got as far as clamping the strengthening panel to the roof. Well, it kind of worked.... the exterior of the roof was fine, but the glue had weakened the very thin styrene and allowed the clamps to leave some marks on the interior side.

The damage isn't too bad and I had a plan which would take care of that. First of all I had to get the roof panel to fit.

Initial trimming was easy, then it was a case of gently, gently does it.

It was pretty much a case of one stroke of the file, and offer up to the roof to test the fit... another stroke of the file and so on.

Eventually, I got the panel to a nice snug fit. - No doubt by the time I have painted this, the thickness of the paint will dictate that I need to shave just a little more of the panel in order for it to fit correctly - we'll see when we get to that point!

I discovered during this exercise that the opening on the passenger side is not straight, and the radii on the corners are not equal. One in particular is much larger than the others. There's not much I can do to fix that unless I want to delve into the realms of making another roof for the car, which I am certainly not going to be doing.

When I finally got the panel to fit I discovered that one corner is sitting slightly high. See photo below...

I don't know if that's because the ejector panel was warped in the first place, or whether my additional styrene panel has warped the ejector roof panel during the bonding process. It's not too bad - just bad enough to make it drive me nuts!

Time to spring plan B into action....

This is an Aston Martin, so the quality department would have made sure there was a nice piece of headlining on the interior of the ejector panel before it left the factory, wouldn't they ?

So, taking a slightly thicker sheet of styrene, I offered that up to the inside of the ejector section, traced around it....

Then cut it to size, and chamfered around the edges to replicate some kind of headlining for the panel.

I then refitted the ejector roof panel, and taped it into position as tightly as I could.

The camera flash washes it out here, but the headlining panel is in place, dry fitted. Looks fine to me!

My plan, or rather, my hope, is that by fixing the ejector panel in place, and holding the shape - when I fit the headlining panel, without any additional pressure, it will cure, helping to hold the shape of the ejector panel.

It is now bonded and set aside to cure. Time will tell if Plan B worked or not.

While that was all off doing it's own thing, I tried a little more dry fitting....

Here you can see that the gear stick is too close to the center console when the dashboard is fitted. I don't have much room to reposition it, but I should be able to move it back just a touch.

I then took a look at the rear number plate (or "tag" for our American cousins). Aurora have kindly supplied a revolving front and rear license plate. Great I hear you say... well, not quite...

Here is the rear number plate offered up to the retaining plate - something not quite right here!

A bit of trimming with a nice sharp knife got the retaining mechanism to work, and hold the plate parallel.

However, when I offered the assembly up to the body, it was a different story....

Here is the assembly blu-tac'd into the correct position according to the instructions. The retainer is sitting hard against the location tabs on the upper part of the body. The bottom part of the retainer doesn't quite touch the lower part of the body, but that is not the worst part.....

With the retainer assembly in it's correct position, here is the license plate viewed from the rear of the vehicle....

You guessed it - it only half lines up with the license plate opening - you can just see the top half of the license plate!

This model is fighting me at every turn!!!

It can and will be rectified, it's just another one of those little things that needs done - and shouldn't have. At least I have got plenty to keep me busy over the next few weeks.

[triumphfan]

What an epic battle we can see unfolding. It seems a miracle any of these ever got built.

The thought process behind every fix is inspirational, looking forward to more.

Steve.

[hendie]

I'm not sure if inspirational is the right word.... maybe desperation! (but many thanks for the compliment!)

You're right though. It's difficult enough for this old codger trying to put it together - I feel sorry for all those kids back in the 60's who would have been slapping glue all over the place and hoping for a great little car straight from the box.

I still have the headlights to deal with - that is going to be the test. If I don't get that right, it will ruin the entire look of the car.

I spent most of today filling and filing - mostly on the small parts like bumpers, mirrors etc. I am almost at the point where I'll need to throw on a coat of primer to see just how bad the body work really is. It's something I am not really looking forward to - and I still haven't found a Mattel vac-u-form for the windows so this build is going to take some time yet.

Edited December 26, 2013 by hendie

[Steve27752]

Brilliant, I am really enjoying watching your fight (sorry build) with this DB5.

Edited December 26, 2013 by Steve27752

[triumphfan]

Hendie,

I cant make out what kit parts survived from the headlight area but, looking at what you have (a pair of empty holes) it looks quite daunting.

I have dealt with a similar issue myself on a model Jaguar. I made an internal impression with plastecine and used that to fashion some 'buckets' from plastic card.

Little cars.com sell some lamp units that are quite nice and the outer covers could be made from clear bubble packaging, so common these days.

Just some thoughts thrown in to keep the juices flowing.

Steve.

[Nigel Heath]

Not much of an update today, but a small amount is better than none at all.

Not at all hendie, it looks like you have made great progress today - even if it is only to find that you have a lot more difficult work ahead.

[hendie]

Hendie,

I cant make out what kit parts survived from the headlight area but, looking at what you have (a pair of empty holes) it looks quite daunting.

I have dealt with a similar issue myself on a model Jaguar. I made an internal impression with plastecine and used that to fashion some 'buckets' from plastic card.

Little cars.com sell some lamp units that are quite nice and the outer covers could be made from clear bubble packaging, so common these days.

Just some thoughts thrown in to keep the juices flowing.

Steve.

Steve,

I have toyed with the idea of making male and female molds, but top of my list at the moment is...

the plan which I have forming in my head is to use brass tubing. I hope to insert a piece of brass tube inside the wing.

Although the DB5 headlamp looks oval, I believe that is because most photo's are taken from a standing height.... when viewed straight on, the actual shape is circular (or very close to it).

I think that by using a piece of brass tube, and then filing an angled flat across and down the wing, that will arrive at the correct shape (I hope!) - I am just waiting on some tubing arriving so I can pick the most appropriate size.

Even if that works, I still have to replicate the headlamp covers and I think I will be using something close to the method you describe.

[triumphfan]

I believe that is because most photo's are taken from a standing height.... when viewed straight on, the actual shape is circular (or very close to it).

I believe you are spot on there. The headlamp units are, I believe, 7" dia so that diameter should extend forward. I used plastic card rolled in hot water because I did not have any tubing large enough. The plastecine former gave me a guide to cut the angle. Took me about 30 mins to make each side. I had kit parts for the covers though, so that was easy.

[hendie]

The problem with this kit is that I don't believe the front wings are quite the right shape. That means in order to get the full diameter, and blend it into the wings, I may need to drop the overall diameter slightly. Once the tubing gets here, I'll see what the best options are.

AM I right in thinking you use bare metal foil in your builds? If so, how do you find it?

I've read that it is low tack so I am a bit concerned about trying it in case it comes loose over time - do you use any additional adhesive?

[hendie]

Last update for today.

I have just spent about 3 hours micro meshing those transparencies. I believe I may have rescued one or two, but the windscreen is scrap as there is one mark in the top middle that I just can't seem to get rid of. I think I have removed at least half the thickness on each darned window!

Other jobs today were filling in sink marks and voids on parts.

Then I took another look at the body.

I wasn't impressed with the as supplied, molded on windscreen wipers...

I had purchased some photo etch wipers a few weeks ago and thought I would try one out... those things were not meant for men of my proportion!

After wrestling with the thing for about half an hour, I finally got a reasonable result. Here is the etched part against the molded version. I think it's a little bit oversize but I think I can make it work. It certainly looks way better then the molded version.

I have since gone completely mad and chopped off the molded wipers, so there's no going back now.

I just can't leave well alone can I ???

[Anthony Kesterton]

Hi Hendie

Just found this thread and very impressed by what you have done to rebuild this kit. I saw your two poorly moulded figures on an earlier page. You should be able to get some spare heads (Hornet make 1/35 scale heads - they may do 1/24th too) - or you might be able to find some other figures that can be used to donate suitable body parts. At this rate, I half expect to see you sculpt some new figures from scratch!

anthony

[hendie]

hi Anthony - thanks for the comments.

I had thought about trying to find replacement figures, and I may look into your suggestion.

Actually, the more I think about it, the more I am tempted to keep the original figures. - When I first set out to build this kit, I had no intention of detailing it to any great extent, it just seems to have taken a life of it's own at times.

Like the rear light clusters, which I could have replaced with something much more realistic... I decided to retain the originals as they have a certain quaintness about them, and they also show the original design intent of the kit. I think keeping the original figures, as badly molded as they are, offers the same charm and 1960's feel to the kit.

Of course, that may change in an instant if I found some figures that really jumped out to me.

[Nigel Heath]

but the windscreen is scrap as there is one mark in the top middle that I just can't seem to get rid of. I think I have removed at least half the thickness on each darned window!

Pictures please.

I wasn't impressed with the as supplied, molded on windscreen wipers...

Yes, I hate them, they have to go.

I think it's a little bit oversize but I think I can make it work. It certainly looks way better then the molded version.

Yes, totally agree. You will make it work.

I have since gone completely mad and chopped off the molded wipers, so there's no going back now.

The point of comitment - you have to make it work now? Don't you?

Good luck with it, if anyone can pull this off you can.

[hendie]

they are gone! which is just as well because the wipers were configured for a left hand drive car, and this is a right hand drive! (I only just noticed the wipers were wrong!)

Edited December 27, 2013 by hendie

[triumphfan]

they are gone! which is just as well because the wipers were configured for a left hand drive car, and this is a right hand drive! (I only just noticed the wipers were wrong!)

This is a very common fault on car kits. Even the new Mini Cooper kit from Revell, as good as it is in every other respect, has the windscreen wipers moulded the wrong way. Annoying but an easy fix if the wipers are seperate parts.

[triumphfan]

AM I right in thinking you use bare metal foil in your builds? If so, how do you find it?

I've read that it is low tack so I am a bit concerned about trying it in case it comes loose over time - do you use any additional adhesive?

I have been using BMF for several years now. I usually buy it from Little cars when at shows but it can be had from Hannants, I think they still do post free over £5 for flat pack items such as decals, etc. Worth a look on their website.

The adhesive is fairly low tack when applied but burnishing seems to make it adhere much better. A friend of mine is an expert with the stuff and would be able to cover those bumpers with it so it looks like paint !!

I have models over 10 years old which show no signs of the BMF peeling. Use the Chrome type as the ultra chrome is a bit thicker and harder to use. You will quickly get the hang of it, golden rule is - fresh blade and even light pressure on the knife.

Steve.

[roymattblack]

I've also used BMF extensively on different builds.

I used it to completely cover the Revell McLaren. With some practice, it's not difficult at all, and no, it won't come off over time.

It's low tack when being applied, but once in place you burnish it down. After that, it's H3LL to remove!

An awesome resurrection of a dying (nay, dead...) model.

Love what you are doing. Keep it going. It's tempting me to start my big DB5 kit.

Roy.

Edited December 27, 2013 by roymattblack