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Pit Road G.W.H. Vulcan B2


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Nice progress. Looks like you got the intakes' insides all sorted but in the future you might try Liquid Green Stuff painted in with a Microbrush. It's worked well for me in tight spots. I'm also enjoying the Vulcan history lesson- being from the other side of the pond, I don't know much about the aircraft type but have always liked their looks. Keep up the great work.

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Cheers Louiex2 Thanksf for the tip. The intakes have had no filler its just the photo angle but they are a good enough fit to get away with it (maybe :rolleyes: )

Here is the Vulcans 200 series pipes they are the early type and quite nice though the outer two should go down and out but they do look pretty darn good. Canopy now fitted this is in two pieces so you could have the rear lift off if you wanted to display the insides but not for me with this one.. I like the claustrophobic part of the Vulcans character its whenever I have sat in one I never wanna get out its too difficult after the effort of getting in and you feel very safe inside there quite misleading considering their Armageddon nature..

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I started to tidy the usuall mess up with 1200 wet and dry.

Then I PVA masked the windows as I normally do using kids school PVA great stuff.

I have also been rounding and blunting off the the air intake lips/edges they are sharp on the pit road and on my last 2 builds I was not satisfied with the look. They should not be razor sharp and should be soft and round. I love curves...

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More tommoro.... well its late so later today now for people who have normal sleeping patterns and not mad Owls like me...

Cheers Rob :sleeping:

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Thanks for the clarification. Never tired PVA to mask but will have to give it a go.

Your welcome it works great I do most my models this way. This Bucc was done that way..

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As were these two as well.

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Cheers Rob

Edited by robvulcan
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Nice work on the Vulcan. It has a LOT of detail for a 144th scale. That picture with the B-52 was taken just over the south east corner of Edwards AFB, in southern California. I think that is either the 2nd or 3rd G model B-52 doing early flight test of that model out of Edwards Flight Test Center.

Darwin

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Nice work on the Vulcan. It has a LOT of detail for a 144th scale. That picture with the B-52 was taken just over the south east corner of Edwards AFB, in southern California. I think that is either the 2nd or 3rd G model B-52 doing early flight test of that model out of Edwards Flight Test Center.

Darwin

Thanks mate, And thanks for the info, Thats ironic as this was the 3rd B2 Vulcan .. I only hope that the B-52 did not have such a tragic short life..

Yes the 1/144th new kits do have a breathtaking amount of detail, as does the 1/200th Vulcan kit from dragon in some ways better than this kit. they both have good and bad points mostly good though. I hope that airfix does a new tool 1/72.

Explain! I'm on tenterhooks awaiting the rapid, uncontrolled expansion of an ancient F-4 I have in the man cave...

Mike

Oh I was reading up on various techniques to weight noses on planes, I have settled on milliput as its stable and does not shrink or expand and steel as that is relitively stable when away from damp, But lead like zinc and mazzak castings can be prone to a weird type of corrosion were it can grow and expand and explode through the plastic of your models. Usually cheap metal that has not been made to a good standard. I forget the name of the condition.

Heljan models Model Railway release of the Class 47 suffered with the exploding metal fatique. here are some links.

http://www.ratomodeling.com/articles/lead_ca/lead_ca.html

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234936857-exploding-nose-weights/

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/12798-heljan-class-47s-do-i-own-2400-of-scrap/

Rob.

Your progress is amazing. I have to get me one of the GWH Vulcans... As I have ordered the decals.

But will be looking for one at SMW:-)

Thanks mate which decals have you ordered I have many more of these to build and would love some more decals cheers Rob ;)

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I have made a few tail sitters in the past. Yet another reason I often model them

Flying. The worst plane I have encountered to try and make sit right is the Canberra. To the point the old airfix kit came with a stand to prop her up on !

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Wow really I never knew that.. So the tail prop is actually a real item then cool.. I guess it shows in their sudden rotation on take off and spritely performance in general. they are elegant beasts Canberra's.

Update time. not too much as the Foxbat has eaten alot of time literally through her big intakes....

The Vulcan has had a very light gripper coat over the surfaces of HU27 to check for little areas that need filling and to hopefully add a little tonal variation to the white..(not really bothered about that as I have chalk pastels for that later)

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I have started to re-scribe the lines of the nose Radome free had with a scalpel and dental tool to correct the front curve and rear adjoining line.

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This will then be tidied up with wet and dry and poly cement and gone over till its sorted out and will make it much easier for met to paint the Radome black later.

Cheers Rob

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Good work rescribing the radome Rob. I remember seeing these in the Spares & Repairs Dept at the Chadderton factory when I stated as an apprentice way back in the 70's, you have captured the shape very well.

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Cheers mate most the work was done by pit road it's just me modding the nose tip curve and the rear section back to a right angle as pit road had made it flare back to a triangle which as far as I have seen is wrong due to the way it disassembled in two pieces. I think the only differing version was that larger one piece version applied to XA889 and XA890

Cheers Rob and I wish i could have seen what you have seen.

;)

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Cheers mate most the work was done by pit road it's just me modding the nose tip curve and the rear section back to a right angle as pit road had made it flare back to a triangle which as far as I have seen is wrong due to the way it disassembled in two pieces. I think the only differing version was that larger one piece version applied to XA889 and XA890

Cheers Rob and I wish i could have seen what you have seen.

;)

They were good times. We had switched to mainly civil work (748) at Chadderton by then so I didn't see it in the glory days of the Vulcan but we still had to carry out Spares & Repairs activities to support them and Nimrod which had recently gone into service.

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Awsome Nimrod54 I wish they were both still around What has happened to the Nimrods to me is criminal.. Such a beautiful plane and one I miss dearly. I remember as I lifted the lid and started my Airfix nimrod I heard on the news that moment they were to be scrapped. I was gutted. Same thing happened with my harrier and VC-10 build I feel like the Grim Reaper of the RAF now...

I best not build a Typhoon, Red arrow or BBMF machine as I have heard that they are being eyed up for scrapping more than a few times over the last few years. I think the typhoons some have already started to be scrapped for spares to keep a handful going..

anyway enough of that don't really want to go down that dirty path anyway what ever happens happens all we can do is model it so come on airfix give us an MRA4...(In my dreams huh?)

Right then ... Wheels... what I normally Ignore on most kits...

I have started to assemble these. I cant get my head around what order to do these in...

Paint wheels fit last,, then add doors paint plane then decal then fit wheels.

or

paint wheels, paint doors, paint plane then fit doors and wheels..

I do not want to balls it up...

I am tempted already to paint the plane, paint the doors,, paint the wheels then fix with pva for the show, then they can be easily removed if broken by accident (my fear that puts me off wheels due to my ex smashing all my old models)

then I can put the wheels up later if I like.....(CHICKEN I hear you say BURRGHH BUCK BUCK BUCK BUCK)

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Cheers Rob :confused:

Edited by robvulcan
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I think that is the path ill tread then. I know when I am decaling and detailing / painting I tend to hug my vulcans close even lie down with them to steady my hands and wondered how I might knock them.

What glues do you recommend. ? Cheers Rob

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I have used a variety of glues to fix the undercarriage Gator Grip (I think that this is similar to No More Nails) is a good one because you can clean it up with water, but I have used small amounts of super-glue. You could also go along the PVA route that you have already suggested and that way you could revert to an in-flight model if you wanted to.

John

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Cheers Nimrod54. I migh go the PVA Route as I am not so sure I am happy with its legs. I have other kits and might have another go. I might even try and make the wheels rotate on an axle and spring the rear wheels so when people handle it the rear wheels hang down a little Its that which make me think of an eagle or other bird of prey when looking at the Vulcan.

Update.

Currently supping coffee again...

I had notice these odd bulges and lines above the radome. Never seen these on any Vulcan so I flatted them back with wet and dry 1200 grit.

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Then I continued to rescribe the nose. A Process of scribe flat back ad check then paint black and wet and dry back to see how its looking.

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This morning after her first coat of paint last night we see the start of the future... I had accidentally knocked the liitle fin off the bombardiers blister. it was not placed wright anyhow. I had been on the fence about adding the other 3 as she will likely be handled lots by people.. and therefore its asking for trouble..again they are so over scale and to me not that important I milliputed them off (sorry if you hate me for this)

I have heard loads of storyies about kits getting damaged at shows so I am building this one to a robust standard. (I hope)

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Cheers Rob

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Okay... now I'm really liking it.

I would want to build a Vulcan in the white scheme but that scheme has always intimidated me. Get it wrong and the model will look incredibly bland and toylike. Your build is showing the panel lines quite well, which is essential to prevent the bland appearance. :thumbsup:

Is there a Blue Steel in the kit?

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Okay... now I'm really liking it.

I would want to build a Vulcan in the white scheme but that scheme has always intimidated me. Get it wrong and the model will look incredibly bland and toylike. Your build is showing the panel lines quite well, which is essential to prevent the bland appearance. :thumbsup:

Is there a Blue Steel in the kit?

Hi mate. No blue steel in this one mate. But you could cadge one off a corgi vulcan but I would not want to scratch the bay... I guess they will release one before long..

There were plenty B2s in white with standard bays, Trouble is there are not blue letters to do most the white vulcans so you will likely for now have to do a full shade one like me. Which I love anyway, I think its more attractive than the pale versions.

I hear what your saying about the white finish, think is although the lines are there and It is nice to see them picked out, If you look at the real ones you can rarely see any panel lines.

Unless they were very dirty. but generally they look like one piece.

Even when right close up under XM655 You can hardly notice the lines, I was looking at that last year when under her.

It does look nice. I am going to try and go half way there with chalks but try and not over do it. That said my beast was a little worn in, General melchett kindly sent me these photos of her.

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Here is a B1a photo he sent me of something I never knew existed, B1a's in Full shade roundel white B1 style rather than the usual pale shade.. Guess what I want to model now....

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Cheers Rob

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here you go Enzo

This is a really good watch. very good colour footage from a 50s/60s documentary on waddo Vulcan B1s loads of close ups and maintenance shots too,

Its fantastic.

You often see edits from this. but this is the full orginal. Its magic..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JCo7pwjoaY

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