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I am thinking of ordering this, but was wondering if it covers casting for those without vacuum chambers, etc. If it does, then I will order tonight.

Cheers,

Tom.

Yes, the book is good just for the mold designing chapters. However you can find paint pressure pots for cheap in ebay and a vacuum chamber is easy to make by yourself for almost nothing. Of course you must have a compressor, and use it also as a vacuum pump for the vacuum part (use the air inlet of the compressor for that).

Edit: I mean this kind of pressure pot and not the potential bombs used for cooking!

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The book is very good. I only read 2/3 so far but it is well written, easy to understand and with good illustrations. Further more it is kept general: It does not say "use company XY super RTV 123" or the like. The only tip I really missed was on how to figure out the volume for the needed RTV or for the needed resin per mold. The book goes the more professional route to calculate the volume while a well know tip is to use dry rice for this. The rice thing is a bit "amateur" maybe but that is what I am too :-) Anyway - this book is a must-buy for anyone interested in the subject.

Rene

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Yes, the book is good just for the mold designing chapters. However you can find paint pressure pots for cheap in ebay and a vacuum chamber is easy to make by yourself for almost nothing. Of course you must have a compressor, and use it also as a vacuum pump for the vacuum part (use the air inlet of the compressor for that).

Edit: I mean this kind of pressure pot and not the potential bombs used for cooking!

Thanks CarLos. Will order tonight.

Cheers,

Tom.

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Edit: I mean this kind of pressure pot and not the potential bombs used for cooking!

Trouble is I cannot get these cheap here in Germany :fraidnot:

Somehow this painting system is not very wide spread here and whats more - there is no real name for these paint pressure tanks here so it is difficult to search them with google and such :shrug:

Well it is not impossible but much more expensive and a bit more difficult than suggested by the book, that is all.

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The book is very good. I only read 2/3 so far but it is well written, easy to understand and with good illustrations. Further more it is kept general: It does not say "use company XY super RTV 123" or the like. The only tip I really missed was on how to figure out the volume for the needed RTV or for the needed resin per mold. The book goes the more professional route to calculate the volume while a well know tip is to use dry rice for this. The rice thing is a bit "amateur" maybe but that is what I am too :-) Anyway - this book is a must-buy for anyone interested in the subject.

Rene

Thanks Rene, for the very generous words about my book.

I wish I knew about using rice to calculate volume when I was writing the book. It's a great technique--nothing "amateurish" about it at all.

Sorry to hear you are having trouble finding pressure pots in Germany. Here in the USA we have a company called "Harbor Freight" that specializes in selling all sorts of tools, machinery and equipment manufactured in China. Their prices are very good, and even though some of the stuff isn't of the best quality, much of it is surprisingly good for the prices being charged. They are a good source for pressure pots. Is there an equivalent to "Harbor Freight" in Deutschland? In Europe?

Also in the USA we have an industrial supply company called "Grainger's. They sell almost every conceivable item that can be used for support and maintenance in industry. They too sell pressure pots, though they are more expensive than Harbor Freight. Perhaps there is a large industrial supply company in Germany equivalent to Graingers?

Edited by BOC262
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You are most welcome Karl in fact I have to thank you for this enjoyable read - your book is really great and should be the first read on the subject IMHO. In fact few will need a second one :winkgrin:

Concerning the pressure pots I found one store who sells second hand ones - but I did not ask for prices up till now, as I am currently figureing out if I can get one from China directly (my company has an office there and we are importing other stuff freequently so maybe one such pot can piggypack here). Graingers and Harbour Freight look interesting - there is one similar store here but I just do not recall the name now. I know them from classic car supply, maybe they have one - good tip!

Cheers,

Rene

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This is the Vacuum chamber I bought, it is expensive but is well made and does the purpose that it is designed for, there are cheaper options but I thought that i would rather buy something that will last long term

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-LITRE-VACUUM-DEGASSING-CHAMBER-AND-PUMP-SILICON-RESIN-CASTING-PLUG-AND-PLAY-/301021448353?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item461646c8a1

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This is the Vacuum chamber I bought, it is expensive but is well made and does the purpose that it is designed for, there are cheaper options but I thought that i would rather buy something that will last long term

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-LITRE-VACUUM-DEGASSING-CHAMBER-AND-PUMP-SILICON-RESIN-CASTING-PLUG-AND-PLAY-/301021448353?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item461646c8a1

Cooooool. But too expensive for me :-(

Besides it does only work for vacuum, but the pressure casting is about as important, so you will need a pressure pot in adition if you want to pressure cast as well.

Anyway thanks for sharing - it does look very good.

Rene

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This book sounds excellent, I have just ordered my copy which should arrive on Monday - £14.77 with no postage to pay. A bargain I think, I am looking forward to reading it. Thanks for taking the trouble to revive it BOC262.

Edited by Nigel Heath
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Yes, the book is good just for the mold designing chapters. However you can find paint pressure pots for cheap in ebay and a vacuum chamber is easy to make by yourself for almost nothing. Of course you must have a compressor, and use it also as a vacuum pump for the vacuum part (use the air inlet of the compressor for that).

Edit: I mean this kind of pressure pot and not the potential bombs used for cooking!

Ordered this evening.

Cheers,

Tom

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Finished mine yesterday - and as I said it is excellent. Loaded with tips but does not bother you with stuff which is not really important for the mold making and casting process. The only thing which I would find more convenient would be if the temperatures, weight and pressures would be given in °C, kg, BAR etc. as well. But this is minor.

Just two additional tips from my side which may be useful for some:

1. Instead of double sided tape I use hot glue which holds the masters etc. fast but can be removed easily as well and does not react with the RTV. It can also seal the framing for the mold so no RTV runs out.

2. After I finished my cast I just weight it on a precise digital scale and not the weight - so next time I know the exact amount of needed resin for this mold :-)

Great book - thanks Karl!

Rene

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2. After I finished my cast I just weight it on a precise digital scale and not the weight

Hi Rene,

can you elaborate on this sentence please? It sounds interesting but is not fully clear to me.

Thanks

Mike

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Mike, I think he meant to say "...and note the weight...". Its a good idea. When I was doing some resin casting into a large part I put it on my digital scales, filled it with water, noted the weight and then I had an instant value for the volume of resin required in cc's - which I transferred to my mixing vessel. Simple and effective.

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Ehr sorry for the typo - Nigel is correct. I just meant that I write the weight of the casting down somewhere (usually directly on the mold).

Nigels tip is also good - but the mold must dry completely or your resin will foam (when there is still water left in the mold).

Depending on the master material you can also weight the master for a good guess or put the master in a masureing cup with water and from the expulsion (is it the corerct term?) you know the volume/weight of resin needed.

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That pressure pot... I'll bet it operate the same way as a Garden Pesticide sprayer.. You use the handle at the top of the pot to build up the pressure. You relieve the pressure by opening the valve in spraygun that push out the fluid pesticide. The same principle operate some firefighting equipment using pure water and muscle.

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That pressure pot... I'll bet it operate the same way as a Garden Pesticide sprayer.. You use the handle at the top of the pot to build up the pressure. You relieve the pressure by opening the valve in spraygun that push out the fluid pesticide. The same principle operate some firefighting equipment using pure water and muscle.

Not true. That handle is just to... handle the thing. You can easily unscrew it.

Here are photos of mine:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3qb5459pxtn2zvl/pressao1.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y1c2ygg4cio3ste/pressao2.jpg

You have (offset to the centre) an inlet that would take the paint in the "normal" use, and air from the compressor in "ours" use; I sawed the tube that would take the paint to the bottom. in the centre, where the handle attaches, you may see a security valve and another attachment (the intended paint outlet) where is now a pressure gauge.

I have a problem with my pot: according with the manual it handles pressure up to 6 bar and the security valve should open at 4 bar but in reality it opens at 2.5 bar. Must change it.

Carlos

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