Paul A H Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 Humbrol Enamel Paint Humbrol For many modellers, particularly those from the UK, the Humbrol brand is intrinsically linked with this past time. With a long and rich history in the hobby, there wont be many of us who haven't prised open a tin of their enamel paint or squeezed a tube of their polystyrene cement at some point. Following hot on the heels of their re-launched range of acrylic paints, Humbrol have now re-launched their long-standing range of enamel paint too. This activity seems to have been predicated on their decision to move production back to the UK from overseas, and indeed all of these 14ml tinlets have been manufactured in the UK. Humbrol have sent us the following samples, which represent a mixture of existing colours and new RLM colours: 21 Black (Gloss) 22 White (Gloss) 36 Pastel Green (Matt) 42 Violet (Matt) 44 Pastel Blue (Matt) 46 Orange (Matt) 58 Magenta (Matt) 111 Field Grey (Matt) 112 Field Blue (Matt) 234 Dark Flesh (Matt) 238 Arrow Red (Gloss) 241 RLM 70 Schwartzgrun (Matt) 242 RLM 71 Dunkelgrun (Matt) 243 RLM 72 Grun (Matt) 244 RLM 73 Grun (Matt) 245 RLM 74 Graugrun (Matt) 246 RLM 75 Grauviolett (Matt) 247 RLM 76 Lichtblau (Matt) 248 RLM 78 Himmelblau (Matt) 249 RLM 79 Sandbraun (Matt) 251 RLM 81 Dunkelbraun (Matt) 252 RLM 82 Olivgrun (Matt) 253 RLM 83 Dunkel-Grun (Matt) The tinlets are reassuringly familiar, even if I have been a dedicated users of acrylics for the past couple of years. The only questions I have are over the labelling of some of the colours. According to their website, 36 should be Pastel Green, but it looks much more like Lime Green (38) to me. Similarly 58 should be Magenta but it looks more like Scarlet (60). Still, let's set that mystery to one side and take a closer look at the paint. My early memories of using enamel paint involved lots of shaking and stirring in order to mix the hardened layer of pigment with the yellowish, oily solvent. Whether these new paints were just well mixed from their time in transit I don't know, but they only required a little stirring to get them ready for use. The paint is quite thick and I wanted to try it in my airbrush, so I thinned it using a ratio of 1 part paint to 2 parts cellulose thinners. That seemed to work very well, and I was able to spray nice, smooth coats on a scrap piece of laminated hardboard that I had to hand. As you can see, the paints have sprayed very nicely, with good coverage and opacity. Even the gloss Arrows Red has covered the black undersurface completely. The matt colours are just that, and took about an hour to become touch dry (cellulose thinner helps paint dry quite quickly). The gloss paint takes longer to dry, so I left it overnight and found that it was touch dry by the morning. Overall, the performance of the paint is very impressive.Conclusion Although I'm a fairly dedicated user of acrylic paint these days, my favoured brand isn't available locally. This can be a nuisance if a model calls for a colour that I don't have as I have to order it online and shell out for postage. Happily, Humbrol's range is very comprehensive (particularly with the addition of the new RLM colours) and is widely available too. They appear to spray and cover well, and on this showing have made me re-think my acrylic only policy. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin W Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 Very interesting they should invest in the enamel range when so many modellers have moved on to acrylics. I personally moved on as there were huge inconsistencies between batches. In the very old days you could buy paints years apart and the colours would match, but once they went overseas you could buy 2 tins on the same day and they were different hues. Presumably these issues got resolved but by then I'd moved to Xtracolour and Mr Colour and now to Xtracrylics. Hopefully this return to UK manufacturing could mark a return to the best paints ever: the Humbrol authentic colours of the late 80's. Colin Colin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperService Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 Completely agree about the consistency, if they get that right they can move onto other issues. I don't see them having a massive increase in the standard colour range simply because of sale stands etc. However they could grab the enthusiast market by changing some of their current colours to match standard shades, this would keep the casual buyer on board and keep them when they learn more about the subject. We shall see. I'm glad to see the Luftwaffe colours though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Although I do use acrylics (Vallejo and Tamiya) enamel is still my preferred paint media. I think it is that bit more durable and clean-up is not really that much worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burncpt Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Yes I've been using enamel for ever! I occasionally use Tamiya acrylics but as Nigel says, the enamels are tougher, brush paint better and actually I find easier to clean up (white spirit being almost as cheap as water - not that you can really clean acrylics with just water...). All my Humbrol tins bar a couple are very old or the recent slightly stodgy ones, not the newest "Made in Blighty" ones and I still think they're good - so these must be excellent! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 linked with this past time Just a minor correction - pass time Best Regards, Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Ranger Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 (edited) I've been using Humbrol enamels since the early 1960s when I mail-ordered a few tins (in the light blue plaid labels) in response to an ad (from MHW?) in an issue of RAF Flying Review! It's been my "go to" paint ever since, and the quality has been consistently good, except for the few years in was made in China. I still have some of my original order, and the paint is as good as it was when I originally received it. I'm looking forward to the new Luftwaffe colors. Edited December 12, 2013 by Space Ranger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 enamels are easier to spray too smell good too 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noeyedears Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 i just used humbrol gloss black in place of the alclad gloss, which i hate. Man i had forgotten how nice it goes down, and the smell ! was like going back to my childhood when i last used enamels. now i just have to wait 3 days for it to cure, but it will be worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Noble Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 Just a minor correction - pass time Best Regards, Nigel Can I make a minor correction to your 'minor correction' it's actually "pastime" all one word, 0ne 's' and no space... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Noble Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 I've not used Humbrol paint for years. It doesn't suit the type of models I build, cars and bikes mostly. It takes an age to dry and never really fully cures for weeks, so is prone to finger marks etc. There are far better alternatives. Tamiya TS sprays, Mr Color lacquer, Zero paints automotive acrylics. They're all easier to spray, are far quicker to dry and are a lot tougher than enamels. Enamels really are 'old' paint technology and paints have come a long way now.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 I notice Humbrol are re-using 'vacant' numbers from discontinued paints. However, it may lead to some confusion on some kits as the new colours are not the same as the old ones. Two examples; 112 was 'Tarmac', it is now 'Field Blue', 253 is the worst, it was 'Cream', used for the body colour of Gromit in the Wallace and Gromit kits, it is now RLM 83 Dunkel-Grun, quite a difference there then. Both these colours [and others] still come up in the painting instructions in some Airfix kits as well as some kits from Eastern Europe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 (edited) and are a lot tougher than enamels I'm not sure I agree with that, in my experience acrylics are more prone to rubbing off high spots compared to enamels. Edited December 17, 2013 by Nigel Heath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truro Model Builder Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 For the new colours, what ratio of paint to thinner are you using, Paul? And I have to disagree about acrylics being more durable than enamels. As I see it, it's like comparing a Land Rover to a Chobham-armoured Chally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Noble Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 I'm not sure I agree with that, in my experience acrylics are more prone to rubbing off high spots compared to enamels. I think you may have mistaken what I wrote for water based acrylics..?? I mean the Zero paints Auto Acrylics which are not water based. They are actually car paints used on full size cars. They are a very different beast to water based acrylics. Very noxious fumes and once applied as tough as old boots. The Tamiya TS and Mr Color are synthetic lacquers, also much tougher than any water based paint or enamels.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 Interesting info. what I said was mainly based on experience with Vallejo water based acrylics so I will take that on board. Thanks Steve. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Brown Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 Enamels have better "Thermal Re-flow" properties. Take way too long to dry for my liking though. Horses for courses, nice to have so much choice compared to a few years ago. Rick. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seahawk Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 Enamels have better "Thermal Re-flow" properties. I'll have to take your word on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Norman Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Hi Lads, Just wondering if anyone has a problem with Humbrol Matt Varnish no 49 in Tinlet form. I had an SR-71 painted up and went to give a Matt coat to the Gloss Black down and the Effect was a very rough finish that you could rub off with your finger, Almost dust like. This is the Second time this has happened to a model that I coated with this Varnish and from a different tin. Getting a bit cheesed of with poorly finished models.. anyone have similar problems? Tks George Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 I think there are much better matt varnishes available. I personally use and would recommend Vallejo (acrylic). You don't say if you brush or airbrush applied, if you got a rough, dusty finish I am assuming an airbrush. I think tin No 49 is enamel but I use the Vallejo varnish on all types of finish with no compatibility issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Norman Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 It isAirbrushing Nigel, Only Recently has this effect has happened. I have moved from House to a Portacabin so I wonder is it a Temperature issue. I do has a little heater then I use from time to time though. Will try out a Vallejo Varnish, I ca get that Locally as well. cheers George Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Brown Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 Hi George. It sounds like you're airbrushing and the paint's drying before it hits the model maybe? Try lowering the pressure, add a little more thinners or spraying a little closer. Only had this with acrylics, though I don't use enamel very often. I'm sure an expert will be along shortly.......... Rick. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fent15 Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 ive been having terrible trouble with brush stroke marks when using these Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panzer Vor!!! Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 ive been having terrible trouble with brush stroke marks when using these Try this Store the tin upside down for a few days i usually sort out the colours i need before i start the build and do this turning every so often Shake well few mins, stir well few mins Start at one end of the model paint towards the front or back ALLWAYS paint in same direction Leave for 24/48 hrs Paint the model in the OPPOSITE DIRECTION to the one you used before Ive used this method for ages and have had no probs with brush marks If you want to know what my models are like ask Shar2 Hope this helps Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fent15 Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 Try this Store the tin upside down for a few days i usually sort out the colours i need before i start the build and do this turning every so often Shake well few mins, stir well few mins Start at one end of the model paint towards the front or back ALLWAYS paint in same direction Leave for 24/48 hrs Paint the model in the OPPOSITE DIRECTION to the one you used before Ive used this method for ages and have had no probs with brush marks If you want to know what my models are like ask Shar2 Hope this helps Dave cheers dave i'll give that a try. Hoperfully it will work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now