hendie Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 (edited) For fine masking, you really ought to look into Aizu tape http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-6-rolls-Aizu-Micron-Masking-Tape-0-4-0-7-1-0-1-5-2-0-2-5-mm-/381074642616?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item58b9d196b8 I used it a lot on my Islander and Dauphin builds - when I needed a 1mm stripe, I laid down a strip of the 1mm tape, then lined each side with the 2.5mm. I could then remove the 1mm strip and use ordinary tamiya tape on the outer edges of the 2.5mm. It left a nice even 1mm wide area ready for paint. It really made masking those fine lines a lot easier. Great job by the way.... and your link to the seascapes was incredible - I'm looking forward to you trying some of those out! Edited December 21, 2014 by hendie 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share Posted December 22, 2014 (edited) I already have some Aizu tape, and also some Jammydog stuff (Jammydog go even narrower than Aizu, and some of the lines on the lift are tiny). Within reason, it shouldn't be too horrible, because by a stroke of great good fortune Ark's deck markings in this era were relatively simple; all straight lines, almost all the same colour (the only exception being some danger marks around the top of the weapons lift at the front of the island, and Airfix provide a decal for those). So no need to dig out the Olfa cutter for circles, for a start. I am going to at least try to paint all the markings other than the distance to run numbers on the runway centre stripe - those will be decals (and thanks to Andrew for pointing me at a decent source of numbers of the right size). I have Airfix's decals to fall back on for the larger spot numbers if necessary, but will try painting first. Ditto the enormous R on the stern (to enable muppets like me to identify which carrier it was...) - I have some aftermarket decals (the maker of which escapes me, so forgive me please), so there is a fall-back position, but Plan A is to trace the R and then cut it out of masking tape. Paint the whole deck white (almost done, though the primer coat has shown up a few little areas that need some filling work). Then mask the lines, spot numbers and R. Then another coat of white primer (in an attempt to seal any areas where there might be paint creep). Then a couple of coats of deck grey. Then the (scale) black runway stripe. Then a stiff gin. Then count to 20, peel off the masking, hold my breath and hope it has all worked. Then seal it. Then add the decals for the distance to run numbers. Then seal it again. And again. Then mask the entire deck and start work on finishing the rest of the hull - catwalks, for'd CIWS deck, and the like. Weathering won't take place until much later - and this deck is going to be very weathered. Still plenty to do - and that doesn't even touch the island, which an entirely separate project; there's an entire scratch built mizzen mast to do yet. I must remember to paint the back of the island white and mask a line while I am at it; there was a vertical white line, aligned with the bum line, to enable you to judge lateral positioning when landing on 5 spot, and trying to paint it after the flight deck lighting is in position will be utterly impossible. Edited December 22, 2014 by Ex-FAAWAFU 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foghorn Leghorn Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 work of Chris Flodberg [http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=155661] - I have to say those are the most realistic model seas I have ever seen, so that's the way I plan to do it too. Just looked at the link and ... wow great sea effects. But the fumes from using that much CA would worry me (and I'm someone who sometimes turns a blind eye to H&S) Paint the whole deck white ... Then mask the lines ... Then another coat of white primer ... Then a couple of coats of deck grey. Then the (scale) black runway stripe. Then a stiff gin. Then count to 20, peel off the masking,...Then seal it. Then add the decals ... Then seal it again. And again. Then mask the entire deck ... Whoah, that's an impressive lot of 'then' steps ... But it's lookin' cookin' nonetheless 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share Posted December 22, 2014 Just looked at the link and ... wow great sea effects. But the fumes from using that much CA would worry me (and I'm someone who sometimes turns a blind eye to H&S) I agree; that's why I will be doing it in my garage! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 Could you slow down trying to write this all down ,serious been on ebay ordering Aizu tape.will try it out when I get to the deck sometime next year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 ....the work of Chris Flodberg [http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=155661] - I have to say those are the most realistic model seas I have ever seen, so that's the way I plan to do it too. If I can get mine half as good as Chris', I will be well chuffed; some of his are absolutely stunning. ...If you are a reader of Mig Jimenez' "Weathering" magazine, the latest issue is about water, and features one of Chris' models. Wow; that is modelling as art....think I'll try and get one of those mags - even tho' the chances of me ever modelling the sea are pretty remote..... Am so looking forward to you getting to the weathering and modelling the sea stages. Tell you what Crisp, if you pull this off (and I bet you will) I'll forgive you for ditching (sic) aircraft in favour of boats.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 Ditching? Definitely not - though I understand why you might think so. This build was originally meant to be a relatively temporary diversion; I had reached the point with the Barra where I was finding more and more references that showed errors that were going to be hard to fix (in particular, I think the Special Hobby Barra is quite a bit too long in the fuselage...), so needed to do something else while I worked out what to do. Since then I have a) acquired another two Special Hobby Barracuda kits (one a Mark II and then another - much rarer, because of the resin bits it contains - Mark III; b ) really sorted my references so I know where I am going with it and c) managed to get - today, in fact - a Sierra vacform 1/48 Barra off Ebay (which, incidentally, supports my suspicions about fuselage shape). The vac form gives me lots of options; eventually I will probably build 2 Barracudas, one folded with lots of open panels (cos the folded wings obscure all sorts of things, so you need to have something to look at!), and the other spread and ready to fly. Despite all that, I am tempted to wait a while longer before plunging back into Fairey-world - mostly because I know that I am going to learn all sorts of stuff that's currently impossible to find out from references as they rebuild the real one for the FAA Museum! None the less, I will be back to flying machines in the new year - in parallel with Ark, rather than instead. I am currently torn; the options are a) take part in the Sea King STGB that starts in January, probably with a 1/48 Hasegawa "HAR5 Ark Royal Edition", to be built as the 820NAS cab I ditched in the Med in 1988; or b ) build the Sea Vixen FAW1 that my desk door neighbour flew in the 60s. On the grounds that my workload means I'm pretty unlikely to finish a GB in the time allotted and that Sandy is not getting any younger, it will probably be the Vixen that wins. I know the FAW2 was a better aircraft, but the Mk1 looked mighty fine without the over-wing tanks. It will be Sandy's cab, probably either sitting on the catapult or just catching the 3rd wire... I am not a rivet-counter by inclination, but as I get further back into the hobby I find that I do seem to be a super-detailer (like someone else I can think of, Steve!). Ark is testimony to that; I don't want her to be just about good enough, because then I know the errors will bug me sitting on my shelf. If I run out of skill, that's fine; being in too much of a rush or too lazy is not. That's why my builds seem to take so long! Happy Christmas, everyone! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkdipXV711 Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Good decision to go with the Sea Vixen ... that way I can pick your brains when you start on the Sea King and I agree that that build could take longer than the group build would allow. I imagine that my build could take months and months. Your ship is looking fantastic and thanks for posting the links to the sea diorama's .... the guy is a genius. Anyway, have a Merry Christmas and all the best for 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 ow ooh yukkk Oi Ex-, I just got my blooming feet wet Gave myself a Christmas Eve treat by reading this odyssey from page 1 Absolutely utterly great I didn't realise there was so much difference between all them thar through deck cruise machines I love the work you have done, magic stuff etch! You make working etch look easy and I know it bain't I confess I have seen a few/many references from Steve about this build but I have been fairly constant sticking with airyplanes upto now, so I waited 'til Christmas This has been a very nice early present, ta mate Glad you are going to carry on with the Barracuda too, I was enjoying that That guy's wonderful seas, mmm nice but incredibly dangerous Not the oats but the stuporgoo, if the fumes get into your lungs you might just as well have spent your youth in a coalmine rather than up in the bright airy skies To use as much as he does I would suggest full face protection and filtered forced air (you know what, it's great to read a huge build like this all in one go, you see so much it is proper amazing) Those deck numbers, have you ever used Letraset, WH SMith still sells some of their old number and letter sets If you paint the white deck then place the required numbers on their spots a quick lift off of dried top coat will leave the numbers below painted as if mask painted on Just might be worth trying if you can get the Letraset Merry Christmas 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 This is a game you have to play slowly, and only do little bits at a time - ruler, tiny pencil marks, and a lot of patience. Not sure I am ever going to complain about masking a canopy ever again... 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 (edited) Second line in from left; two-thirds of the way up - slight kink..........Reckon it'll all have to be done again..... Okay - Okay that was just completely made up Do not envy that task. Am also inclined to wind my neck in about the hassle of masking canopies.. Edited December 28, 2014 by Fritag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phildagreek Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Wow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxy Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Yep tis a work of art and no mistake.Patience and time bring big dividends. Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 now it's getting to the really exciting bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 (edited) Top marks to Aizu tape! I have used 1mm (most of the lines), 0.7mm (the lift surrounds) and 0.4mm (the lift centre lines). The knack is: a) NEVER trust the Mark 1 eyeball; with the sides of the deck not parallel, it will deceive you, so use a set square and a ruler every time; b ) a flexible ruler and a new, sharp No 11 blade are your friends! c) you have to go for it a bit, and accept that there will be a few lines you have to strip off and start again - but hold the stuff taught and get your marks right in the first place, and it is surprisingly easy to get right. Here we are, almost all done (I just need to do the corners of the lifts...) The full length shot was taken before I realised that I hadn't cut out the dotted lines on 6 & 7 spots, and while a couple of the athwartships (now there's a word for you, Steve!) lines still crossed the runway centre line. Final pic is as she looks now. I have decided not to mask the spot numbers; the R was hard enough (and may end up being supplemented with a decal). Since the decals that Andrew recommended have now arrived (and yes, they are perfect for the distance to run marks on the runway and for the spot numbers, so thanks a lot, Andrew!), then why waste the effort for something that won't look as neat? Edited December 29, 2014 by Ex-FAAWAFU 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 excellent masking work. I had trouble just getting three bands parallel to each other - You must need your eyeballs massaged after that effort! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianthemodeller Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 I couldn't of got it that neat with a pencil and rule - let alone masking tape! Hats off to you sir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich2010 Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 You've made it all look rather easy! Can't wait see the next step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 I wouldn't normally post a picture of a deck sprayed grey, but in this case it is a significant step, for reasons you will all appreciate! Another coat tomorrow, then the runway centre line... and then unmasking! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 (edited) Now this just looks plain weird! Edited December 31, 2014 by Ex-FAAWAFU 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 shouldn't the go faster stripes be on the side? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 What looks weird? Martin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted December 31, 2014 Author Share Posted December 31, 2014 Dark deck, fat white centre line - that's what looks weird! Tomorrow the fat white line will go (almost) black, and the world will return to normal... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted December 31, 2014 Author Share Posted December 31, 2014 So, the question is... has it worked...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted December 31, 2014 Author Share Posted December 31, 2014 And the answer...? I am chuffed to bits! A few bits of paint creep, especially around the corners of the lifts (which were always going to be the most tricky). But on the whole it has worked perfectly; certainly there is nothing here that cannot be fixed. Aizu wins! 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now