Nigel Heath Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 (edited) Dalek Diary - Day 36 Get ready for a long roller coaster ride. After last night's upload I did get some more work done. Now I had my electronic components I could have a look for a resistor for the blue LED. A good starting point seemed to be 1k Ohm. Lashed up in true Heath Robinson fashion I got this: I know I have been supplied with a formula, which I did have a look at: The trouble is I don't know what the current requirement is, only that it requires three Volts across it so some experimentation is required. Stared directly into it looks like this: I thought perhaps it could be brighter so tried 680 Ohms: Looks a bit brighter and about right to me. I then cut out one of the long kit slats and made it into a template: Here is the bread I made, ready for bacon insertion tomorrow: That was as far as last night went, This morning I arose bright and early, filled with Dalek build fervour: The first job I tackled was to glue in some more radiation shielding. I used up some oddments of epoxy that I had: One piece required a bit of clamping: I started to fill the cavity with some of the grey ingot sprue: I had forgotten about my box of brown spure so I had a look in there to see what was on offer: I thought the colourful round section ones would make a nice edition and proceded thus: I also added some more sealant - I have proven that you can never have enough sealant: Very pretty. I then nipped out and procured pig based energy source along with a new file + handle and 2mm cobalt drill: When I told Attitude A that I was going to be working on him with cobalt containing tools he got very excited. He informed me that cobalt was one of his favorite elements, apparently he is particularly fond of the radioactive type. I then continued with the cheery sprue infilling: I finished off this phase with a layer of brown hexagonal stuff: These scraps were consigned to the special modelling materials bin. I hope me leaving carpet monster food around in an open bin does not encourage an infestation: I then proceded with what I think will be the last resin episode. In this batch I mixed in a lot of inert filler, this significantly increased its viscosity, it only slowly oozed into the cavities: Indeed, it needed a bit of encouragement to flow to the edges.BTW I just poured it in from the cup, no syringes were harmed here. Here it is ready to be put in a safe place. I bet there are air pockets in there but it does not matter a jot, a nice sealed surface has been created, all just with one and a half scoups of resin: There were still gaps in the gun box sealing so I applied more Vallejo filler: By now the resin was highly viscous, I tilted over that in the dome: I think it is time to sort out the defects in the dome: They occur on both sides of the eye slot: There is also a vertical component to them from the ribs: Hard to see but I think its just about there. I troweled on a good layer of filler, compacted with wet modelling finger: Turning to the nickel silver upper collar I tried to burnish out the kinks with the back end of my grippy tweezers: This operation really shows up the directional surface texture. My new file was put to work shaping and deburring the edges: I then burnished up with 2400 grit Micromesh and was truly dazzled by the results, my photo here does not do it justice; the results were bordering on the miraculous: I then discovered that my camera was on the wrong setting which explains the odd orange photographs. To join the collars at the front a little square cover plate is required, I got out my cobalt drill in readyness. I also have a couple of 1.5mm TiN coated drills which would be good for pilot purposes. Attitude A tugs my sleve and says that he is also a big fan of titanium. I think he actuallly likes most metals, especially when in liquid form: Following sound engineering practice I centre punched for the four holes: Drilled out with the cobalt drill: Here is the result with rivets fitted to the collar: Using the plate and collar as a drill guide I drilled out the plastic: Here are both rivets in situ with the collar: My clamps were good to lock the collar in place: I was then able to drill out for the first long slat using the template: Here a rivet can be seen fitted from the inside: And from the outside: I used masking tape to measure the lower edge of the collar: It is currently too long and will need trimming later. The tape informs that the distance is 130mm, this has to be divided into six for the required 13 long slats, this comes out to 21.66mm, spaced along the tape with dividers I hope you are following this, I'm not. Using the tape and template back on the collar I can mark out for the holes: The holes could then be marked out ready for drilling: A little ruler and pencil work clarifies the hole positions: Spot the slippers? I then started on a template for the short slats using my scriber tool: I used this to mark out for the front slats: Here are all the holes marked out ready for drilling: I centre punched using masking tape to hold it all in place: Here is the result: And the whole thing punched ready for more drilling: Some of the holes needed a little recentering achieved via filing: Ah, all drilled and ready to go. I also trimmed the surplus off the end Here is the collar held in position with a few random rivets (also used as a drill guide): I then turned my attention to the mesh, this appeared to be the best position for it: Blimey another slipper or two in there.The sheet metal collar was used as drill guide for the mesh and the ends were trimmed: This is the result, best displayed on a black background: I made the first of the long slats: I made a few more and then the centre punch slipped: I think I may have to scrap this but will try to rescue it first. The cause of the problem was a rounded centre punch, in normal circumstances I would have reground it long ago on my bench grinder but as this was not availble I had let matters slip. So I improvised using my Dremel in less than ideal but perfectly adequate circumstances to regrind the point: I had a go at retrieving the damaged slat using my Dremel in grinder mode: After quite a bit of fettling it does not look too bad: Attitude A informs me that some minor cosmetic battle damage is perfectly acceptable, some factions actually consider it an essential badge of honour but I think I will be making another slat. Starting on another slat the new centre punch provides a much better service, slips should now be a thing of the past: The resin was now hardening up nicely, I popped a couple of air bubbles: I repolished the upper collar ready for a fit check: I'm sorry hendie but I can't do a full dry build as the resin in the neck is still too soft, will this do? Shoulder section with collar, mesh and slats dry installed: There is a little bit of tweaking to do but I am well chuffed with the results here. Attitude A has just informed me that he likes what he sees and is very much looking forward to inhabiting his new exoskeleton. Nigel Bye until tomorrow, Nigel Edited October 8, 2013 by Nigel Heath 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 excellent post Nigel - it was worth the wait! I was a bit concerned that the nickel sheet would be difficult to manage and the edges would be a bit wavy but you seem to have beaten it into submission and the strips look very good indeed. I was actually considering styrene and BMF, but I may well go down the sheet metal route when the time comes. The rivets definitely add that extra detail. At least the resin seems to be behaving now.... looks like you are on a roll! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 I thought the nickel sliver sheet would be very hard to work with. It is not a walk in the park but not too bad at all really and I am very pleased with the results. I would recommend it, you do need good tin snips and other specialist tools though. I am looking forward to my five day build marthon, starting on Saturday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billydick Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Gee Whizz....superb stuff Nigel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Looks like good progress from the McDalek factory. Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Och eye. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 (edited) Dalek Diary - Day 37 This is still from last night, I applied some gentle heat to aid the resin cure: Today, with the resin nicely cured I thought I had better check the switch was OK. It turns out that the resin has done some internal damage, what was a SPDT switch has now become a SPST. I don't think this matters though - it still switches on and off. Look at the circuit diagram in the centre of the photo, that PCB link joining the front and back of the switch is totally redundant electrically speaking: To satisfy hendie I could now do a full stack dry run: Where I tried to infill the resin bubbles there is now a lump of resin preventing the sections coming together: With the drum sander attachment in my Dremel I quickly removed it and a few other suspect high spots: That's better: And a view from the inside: On the middle neck ring there was rough area that needed sanding off, I think this must be where the nitrile glove caught on the resin: On the top ring there is this small area that could use some filler: While I did that I also applied some to the rough area on the top of the neck: On the neck some of the vertical trifoil bars line up quite well: The above photo now corrrected (15/11/13). In other areas, not so well: This is probably the worst issue with the kit found so far, nothing I can do about it now and will live with the issue. Before you ask, I did line up all the Y arrows so not guilty on that front: The last job was to sand the filler on the dome: A little more is required as indicated by the pencil mark. You can see from the pattern of remaining filler how the glue had caused the plastic to distort. There is still a lot of work left in the shoulder collars and associated slats and they have to be completed before I can paint the shoulder and skirt sections. Thinking about it, I should put them on hold and get the dome and neck ready for paint - even though the dome and skirt will end up the same colour (red). Bye for now, Nigel Edited November 15, 2013 by Nigel Heath 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Oh My! I will, In future, be typing from behind the sofa. Look at the circuit diagram in the centre of the photo, that PCB link joining the front and back of the switch is totally redundant electrically speaking: Erm, Repeat please? Is the answer probably? We mere mortals no speakie this techie? Regards Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 In essence there's no need for it to be there as it links nothing out, switch will still work with or without the link wire (not a pcb by the way just shows a link wire in the diagram) Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Its quite simple really, the two sides of the switch are connected on the PCB: That big squareish pad of copper links the two togeher, the diagram is correct in representing it but it does not need to be there. But I suppose I am Davros - the cleverest and most evil genius the universe has ever known - and such things that appear trivial to me may well confound mere humans. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 this is really taking shape now. You must be drooling with anticipation being so close to getting the build complete - I know there's still wads of work to do, but now you have a recognizable Dalek, whereas before, it was merely a collection of Dalek parts. Shame about the trefoil sections - even if you were aware of the issue before you got this far - was there much you could have done about it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Hi hendie, I was waiting for your input. I was not really aware of the issue up to now and now its far too late to do anything about it. I don't think it will be that noticable to the casual observer. The worst defect is at the front so from the sides it should look OK. It will be a special feature of my Dalek. And the best thing is that Attitude Adjuseter is very happy to be getting a proper home very soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kallisti Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 The Colour of a Different Horse (I keep him in a biscuit tin in the airing cupboard) is nagging me that he needs a new home as good as this one. Three out of the four voices in my head keep telling him to shut up. The other voice wants to know when the Tellytubbies are coming back on TV. I think I need my medication... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 (edited) Attitiude Adjuster and I think that you must take your medication very soon. Please. Edited October 8, 2013 by Nigel Heath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 We both think you are a bit of a loony, hearing strange voices in your head and all of that. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted October 9, 2013 Author Share Posted October 9, 2013 (edited) Dalek Diary - Day 38 Here is an early update using photos taken last night. The resin in the dome never did reach equilibrium and is now forever frozen as a little breaking wave: I sanded the filler on top of the neck section: When checked with a straight edge, this whole area turns out to be in a hollow: To try to correct it I filled the area again, this time tamping down with the end of my 6" ruler: I resanded the filler on the dome: I think this is now ready for some primer. I got all these other parts ready for primer application: Well that's it for now. More to follow later on today. Bye, Nigel Edited October 10, 2013 by Nigel Heath 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kallisti Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 Um, why are you filling and sanding an area inside the model which nobody (apart from you when you switch on) will see? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted October 9, 2013 Author Share Posted October 9, 2013 (edited) To me this is still a visible area. As you say it will only be visible when the dome is off but in the Nigey scheme of things it should still recieve (almost) as much loving care and attention as the true exterior. Edited October 9, 2013 by Nigel Heath 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted October 9, 2013 Author Share Posted October 9, 2013 In essence there's no need for it to be there as it links nothing out, switch will still work with or without the link wire (not a pcb by the way just shows a link wire in the diagram) Colin Colin, I suspect you may be a fellow evil genius, we should hook up for lunch sometime and discuss schemes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billydick Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 He/she/it (is gender applicable?) without a doubt will be the best Dalek in the universe. With due respect to all other Daleks ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted October 9, 2013 Author Share Posted October 9, 2013 He is definitely a he. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 Total entertainment this thread is It has to be one of the best modelling threads on the net........ Well i reckon it is AND it has food pics All we need is some scotch or Gluiness a nude and we have covered all bases Cheers 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PZRGREN Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 Not so many food pics though in recent days!! Tsk...Tsk... Great modelling though! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted October 9, 2013 Author Share Posted October 9, 2013 (edited) I have had a further think on this issue with the bars and perhaps there is something I can do about it. There is solid resin behind all of them so I could grind them off. I could then drill throught the neck rings and insert trifoil brass rods like hendie has done. Quite a bit of extra work and it will delay the schedule, what do you think? Edited October 9, 2013 by Nigel Heath 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aeronut Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 Go for it. Since when has the prospect of extra work stopped you with this project. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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