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Attitude Adjustor the Dalek - Is Now Finished


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Dalek Diary - Day 36

Get ready for a long roller coaster ride.

After last night's upload I did get some more work done. Now I had my electronic components I could have a look for a resistor for the blue LED. A good starting point seemed to be 1k Ohm. Lashed up in true Heath Robinson fashion I got this:

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I know I have been supplied with a formula, which I did have a look at:

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The trouble is I don't know what the current requirement is, only that it requires three Volts across it so some experimentation is required. Stared directly into it looks like this:

P1010984_zps23e46e09.jpg

I thought perhaps it could be brighter so tried 680 Ohms:

P1010985_zps2864d4fc.jpg

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Looks a bit brighter and about right to me.

I then cut out one of the long kit slats and made it into a template:

P1010983_zpsdf03ae24.jpg

Here is the bread I made, ready for bacon insertion tomorrow:

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That was as far as last night went,

This morning I arose bright and early, filled with Dalek build fervour:

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The first job I tackled was to glue in some more radiation shielding. I used up some oddments of epoxy that I had:

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One piece required a bit of clamping:

P1010993_zps8b2da175.jpg

I started to fill the cavity with some of the grey ingot sprue:

P1010994_zps7201e412.jpg

I had forgotten about my box of brown spure so I had a look in there to see what was on offer:

P1010995_zps8d09612a.jpg

I thought the colourful round section ones would make a nice edition and proceded thus:

P1010996_zps22e6bc54.jpg

I also added some more sealant - I have proven that you can never have enough sealant:

P1010997_zpsa97e1996.jpg

Very pretty.

I then nipped out and procured pig based energy source along with a new file + handle and 2mm cobalt drill:

P1010998_zps61f1ae85.jpg

When I told Attitude A that I was going to be working on him with cobalt containing tools he got very excited. He informed me that cobalt was one of his favorite elements, apparently he is particularly fond of the radioactive type.

I then continued with the cheery sprue infilling:

P1010999_zps6260acc5.jpg

I finished off this phase with a layer of brown hexagonal stuff:

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These scraps were consigned to the special modelling materials bin. I hope me leaving carpet monster food around in an open bin does not encourage an infestation:

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I then proceded with what I think will be the last resin episode. In this batch I mixed in a lot of inert filler, this significantly increased its viscosity, it only slowly oozed into the cavities:

P1020003_zps9d370d3c.jpg

Indeed, it needed a bit of encouragement to flow to the edges.BTW I just poured it in from the cup, no syringes were harmed here.

Here it is ready to be put in a safe place. I bet there are air pockets in there but it does not matter a jot, a nice sealed surface has been created, all just with one and a half scoups of resin:

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There were still gaps in the gun box sealing so I applied more Vallejo filler:

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By now the resin was highly viscous, I tilted over that in the dome:

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I think it is time to sort out the defects in the dome:

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They occur on both sides of the eye slot:

P1020008_zps85795dda.jpg

There is also a vertical component to them from the ribs:

P1020009_zps02b11204.jpg

Hard to see but I think its just about there.

I troweled on a good layer of filler, compacted with wet modelling finger:

P1020010_zps7f7fcfe5.jpg

Turning to the nickel silver upper collar I tried to burnish out the kinks with the back end of my grippy tweezers:

P1020011_zps4745b98d.jpg

This operation really shows up the directional surface texture.

My new file was put to work shaping and deburring the edges:

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I then burnished up with 2400 grit Micromesh and was truly dazzled by the results, my photo here does not do it justice; the results were bordering on the miraculous:

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I then discovered that my camera was on the wrong setting which explains the odd orange photographs.

To join the collars at the front a little square cover plate is required, I got out my cobalt drill in readyness. I also have a couple of 1.5mm TiN coated drills which would be good for pilot purposes. Attitude A tugs my sleve and says that he is also a big fan of titanium. I think he actuallly likes most metals, especially when in liquid form:

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Following sound engineering practice I centre punched for the four holes:

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Drilled out with the cobalt drill:

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Here is the result with rivets fitted to the collar:

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Using the plate and collar as a drill guide I drilled out the plastic:

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Here are both rivets in situ with the collar:

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My clamps were good to lock the collar in place:

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I was then able to drill out for the first long slat using the template:

P1020022_zpsa2722287.jpg

Here a rivet can be seen fitted from the inside:

P1020023_zps5f2393cc.jpg

And from the outside:

P1020024_zps7a4c8444.jpg

I used masking tape to measure the lower edge of the collar:

P1020025_zpsf9ef0cf1.jpg

It is currently too long and will need trimming later. The tape informs that the distance is 130mm, this has to be divided into six for the required 13 long slats, this comes out to 21.66mm, spaced along the tape with dividers

P1020026_zps5def2db5.jpg

I hope you are following this, I'm not.

Using the tape and template back on the collar I can mark out for the holes:

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The holes could then be marked out ready for drilling:

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A little ruler and pencil work clarifies the hole positions:

P1020029_zpsaa69bc7b.jpg

Spot the slippers?

I then started on a template for the short slats using my scriber tool:

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I used this to mark out for the front slats:

P1020031_zps6f0ffae7.jpg

Here are all the holes marked out ready for drilling:

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I centre punched using masking tape to hold it all in place:

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Here is the result:

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And the whole thing punched ready for more drilling:

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Some of the holes needed a little recentering achieved via filing:

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Ah, all drilled and ready to go. I also trimmed the surplus off the end

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Here is the collar held in position with a few random rivets (also used as a drill guide):

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I then turned my attention to the mesh, this appeared to be the best position for it:

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Blimey another slipper or two in there.The sheet metal collar was used as drill guide for the mesh and the ends were trimmed:

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This is the result, best displayed on a black background:

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I made the first of the long slats:

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I made a few more and then the centre punch slipped:

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I think I may have to scrap this but will try to rescue it first.

The cause of the problem was a rounded centre punch, in normal circumstances I would have reground it long ago on my bench grinder but as this was not availble I had let matters slip.

So I improvised using my Dremel in less than ideal but perfectly adequate circumstances to regrind the point:

P1020045_zps4c505ac1.jpg

I had a go at retrieving the damaged slat using my Dremel in grinder mode:

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After quite a bit of fettling it does not look too bad:

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Attitude A informs me that some minor cosmetic battle damage is perfectly acceptable, some factions actually consider it an essential badge of honour but I think I will be making another slat.

Starting on another slat the new centre punch provides a much better service, slips should now be a thing of the past:

P1020048_zps1125d274.jpg

The resin was now hardening up nicely, I popped a couple of air bubbles:

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I repolished the upper collar ready for a fit check:

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I'm sorry hendie but I can't do a full dry build as the resin in the neck is still too soft, will this do?

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Shoulder section with collar, mesh and slats dry installed:

There is a little bit of tweaking to do but I am well chuffed with the results here.

Attitude A has just informed me that he likes what he sees and is very much looking forward to inhabiting his new exoskeleton.

NigP1020052_zps6f298039.jpgel

Bye until tomorrow,

Nigel

Edited by Nigel Heath
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excellent post Nigel - it was worth the wait!

I was a bit concerned that the nickel sheet would be difficult to manage and the edges would be a bit wavy but you seem to have beaten it into submission and the strips look very good indeed.

I was actually considering styrene and BMF, but I may well go down the sheet metal route when the time comes. The rivets definitely add that extra detail.

At least the resin seems to be behaving now.... looks like you are on a roll!

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I thought the nickel sliver sheet would be very hard to work with. It is not a walk in the park but not too bad at all really and I am very pleased with the results. I would recommend it, you do need good tin snips and other specialist tools though.

I am looking forward to my five day build marthon, starting on Saturday.

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Dalek Diary - Day 37

This is still from last night, I applied some gentle heat to aid the resin cure:

P1020053_zps350cafeb.jpg

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Today, with the resin nicely cured I thought I had better check the switch was OK. It turns out that the resin has done some internal damage, what was a SPDT switch has now become a SPST. I don't think this matters though - it still switches on and off. Look at the circuit diagram in the centre of the photo, that PCB link joining the front and back of the switch is totally redundant electrically speaking:

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To satisfy hendie I could now do a full stack dry run:

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Where I tried to infill the resin bubbles there is now a lump of resin preventing the sections coming together:

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With the drum sander attachment in my Dremel I quickly removed it and a few other suspect high spots:

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That's better:

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And a view from the inside:

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On the middle neck ring there was rough area that needed sanding off, I think this must be where the nitrile glove caught on the resin:

P1020062_zpseb0a4b1b.jpg

On the top ring there is this small area that could use some filler:

P1020063_zps9fc65c4c.jpg

While I did that I also applied some to the rough area on the top of the neck:

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On the neck some of the vertical trifoil bars line up quite well:

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The above photo now corrrected (15/11/13).

In other areas, not so well:

P1020066_zpsef86bf62.jpg

This is probably the worst issue with the kit found so far, nothing I can do about it now and will live with the issue.

Before you ask, I did line up all the Y arrows so not guilty on that front:

P1020067_zps3e9d6eba.jpg

The last job was to sand the filler on the dome:

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A little more is required as indicated by the pencil mark. You can see from the pattern of remaining filler how the glue had caused the plastic to distort.

There is still a lot of work left in the shoulder collars and associated slats and they have to be completed before I can paint the shoulder and skirt sections. Thinking about it, I should put them on hold and get the dome and neck ready for paint - even though the dome and skirt will end up the same colour (red).

Bye for now,

Nigel

Edited by Nigel Heath
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Oh My!

I will, In future, be typing from behind the sofa.

Look at the circuit diagram in the centre of the photo, that PCB link joining the front and back of the switch is totally redundant electrically speaking:

Erm, Repeat please?

Is the answer probably?

We mere mortals no speakie this techie?

Regards

Pete

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Its quite simple really, the two sides of the switch are connected on the PCB:

P1020073_zpsb0684280.jpg

That big squareish pad of copper links the two togeher, the diagram is correct in representing it but it does not need to be there.

But I suppose I am Davros - the cleverest and most evil genius the universe has ever known - and such things that appear trivial to me may well confound mere humans.

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this is really taking shape now. You must be drooling with anticipation being so close to getting the build complete - I know there's still wads of work to do, but now you have a recognizable Dalek, whereas before, it was merely a collection of Dalek parts.

Shame about the trefoil sections - even if you were aware of the issue before you got this far - was there much you could have done about it?

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Hi hendie,

I was waiting for your input. I was not really aware of the issue up to now and now its far too late to do anything about it. I don't think it will be that noticable to the casual observer. The worst defect is at the front so from the sides it should look OK. It will be a special feature of my Dalek.

And the best thing is that Attitude Adjuseter is very happy to be getting a proper home very soon.

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The Colour of a Different Horse (I keep him in a biscuit tin in the airing cupboard) is nagging me that he needs a new home as good as this one. Three out of the four voices in my head keep telling him to shut up. The other voice wants to know when the Tellytubbies are coming back on TV.

I think I need my medication...

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Dalek Diary - Day 38

Here is an early update using photos taken last night.

The resin in the dome never did reach equilibrium and is now forever frozen as a little breaking wave:

P1020069_zpsaffabe3b.jpg

I sanded the filler on top of the neck section:

P1020070_zps64bad1ae.jpg

When checked with a straight edge, this whole area turns out to be in a hollow:

P1020071_zpsd4fd2bb4.jpg

To try to correct it I filled the area again, this time tamping down with the end of my 6" ruler:

P1020072_zps5b44ee33.jpg

I resanded the filler on the dome:

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I think this is now ready for some primer.

I got all these other parts ready for primer application:

P1020075_zps538a6fa1.jpg

Well that's it for now.

More to follow later on today.

Bye,

Nigel

Edited by Nigel Heath
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To me this is still a visible area. As you say it will only be visible when the dome is off but in the Nigey scheme of things it should still recieve (almost) as much loving care and attention as the true exterior.

Edited by Nigel Heath
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In essence there's no need for it to be there as it links nothing out, switch will still work with or without the link wire (not a pcb by the way just shows a link wire in the diagram)

Colin

Colin,

I suspect you may be a fellow evil genius, we should hook up for lunch sometime and discuss schemes.

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Total entertainment this thread is

It has to be one of the best modelling threads on the net........

Well i reckon it is AND it has food pics

All we need is some scotch or Gluiness a nude and we have covered all bases

Cheers

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I have had a further think on this issue with the bars and perhaps there is something I can do about it.

P1020066_zpsef86bf62.jpg

There is solid resin behind all of them so I could grind them off. I could then drill throught the neck rings and insert trifoil brass rods like hendie has done. Quite a bit of extra work and it will delay the schedule, what do you think?

Edited by Nigel Heath
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