Russell Wood Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 Hey gang. I need some advice I am planning on building 9 1:32 Hawks as the Red Arrows for my local RAF Museum at Cosford. I know - I must be crazy!! While this is vey much a pipe dream at the moment, and very much in the early statges I thought I would curry opinion from my peers. I intended to do the diamond 9, nice and simple formation to hang from the ceiling in Hangar 1 maybe? The model display room at Cosford is too small to house such a large collection of 1:32 birds (despite that, the ceiling in the model room is only about 7 feet high) In addition to the airborne display, I also intend to do a static diorama of Red 1 being prepped for launch, and I wanted to make this one super special and throw a load of resin and etch at it. Etch is simple enough, but resin scares the eebies out of me... I have my eye on the CMK resin pit, has anyone worked with this and how does it fit into the kit? I've read so much about resin pits and fit issues with much sanding and shoe-horning required... Don't really want to make a hash of it if I can avoid it. Comments, thoughts and pursuasion from my mad course much invited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
depressed lemur Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 I think I know how you feel. I bought resin seats and tailpipe for mine back at the last SMW and it is still in the packet looking at me. I don't know where to start, but I intend to add it to the kit pit rather than replace the whole thing. Good luck with the plan of ten, I am starting four at the same time and this is bad enough! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caution Wake Turbulence Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 I have two of the Revell kits. Plus the CMK 'pit, flaps and gear bays. The resin parts are well cast, but I can't really comment on fit as I haven't tried yet.... it looks promising though - pictures on the CMK site suggest the masters were built-up using the kit parts as a starting point which is promising fit-wise, but this is just supposition on my part. The seats, to me, look better that the Heritage ones - I make no comment on accuracy, but the casting is cleaner and crisper in my opinion. Other than that, good luck with 10 of them, it'll take me long enough to finish two!!! Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 I have two of the Revell kits. Plus the CMK 'pit, flaps and gear bays. The resin parts are well cast, but I can't really comment on fit as I haven't tried yet.... it looks promising though - pictures on the CMK site suggest the masters were built-up using the kit parts as a starting point which is promising fit-wise, but this is just supposition on my part. The seats, to me, look better that the Heritage ones - I make no comment on accuracy, but the casting is cleaner and crisper in my opinion. Other than that, good luck with 10 of them, it'll take me long enough to finish two!!! Andrew Are the gear bays a big improvement on the kit items, are they worth the investment? Shaun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caution Wake Turbulence Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 Are the gear bays a big improvement on the kit items, are they worth the investment? Shaun. Hi Shaun, on the whole, I'm quite impressed with the CMK resin. Here are some photos of the gear bays: CMK_5077_Contents by Caution Wake Turbulence, on Flickr CMK_5077_Main Gear Bays by Caution Wake Turbulence, on Flickr CMK_5077_Nose Gear Doors by Caution Wake Turbulence, on Flickr CMK_5077_Main Gear Bay Pipes by Caution Wake Turbulence, on Flickr CMK_5077_Nose Gear Bay by Caution Wake Turbulence, on Flickr CMK_5077_Main Gear Actuators by Caution Wake Turbulence, on Flickr There is more detail than contained in the kit parts, also the main gear bays are not the same (left vs right). Fit seems okay, although I have only test fitted the main gear bays against the lower wing halves. The resin bays don't extend quite as far inboard as the kit ones. The roof of the resin bays is paper-thin in places - whether this bodes well for fit or not I'm not sure. I notice that the resin parts have a flat roof unlike the kit parts - I don't know which is accurate in this respect (EDIT: just wondering if this could cause interference with the intakes....?). HTH Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 (edited) The look nice and the way they are cast should help with the fitting. The flat roof should be Ok. the real wing is quite fat in that location. Wonder why they don't go as far inboard as the kit items?, there is an overlap on the real aircraft above the main gear door attachment points. Shaun. Edited August 28, 2013 by Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caution Wake Turbulence Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 It's not a huge difference - the outline matches the opening in the lower wing surface. Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 Were did you get your wheel bay set from?, none of the UK shops appear to have them but the CMK site lists them as in stock. Shaun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caution Wake Turbulence Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 I ordered direct from the CMK eShop - took about a week. Andrew 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 I ordered direct from the CMK eShop - took about a week. Andrew How much was postage?, can't see a postal rates cost on the site. Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caution Wake Turbulence Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 The total was 24.78 Euros (item plus P&P) for standard mail - there were other more expedient methods but they cost more than the resin...., but like I said order to delivery was only a week with standard mail. Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomjw Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 I ordered direct from the CMK eShop - took about a week. Andrew Thanks for this Andrew. I have two in the stash and will follow your lead and order these twice over. Cheers, Tom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 Is there anybody planning to release new resin wheels for the 1/32 Hawk with tread detail and flat spots?, I'm sure there would be a large market for these items. Shaun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkkeeper Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 tread detail should be easy to sort, it's just 3 grooves around the circumference, no sipes or cross cuts, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tedfellows Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 I wasn't impressed with the CMK cockpit set to be honest. The detail is very soft, and I think you'll get better results using etch and either Aires or Paragon resin Mk-10 Seats :-) Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 Talking of the cockpit PE sets, are they all the same and made/printed by Eduard? The Revell, Eduard and Kuivalainen sets all appear to be of the same layout but the costs vary between the brands? Shaun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabberwocky Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 My first build of this kit used the Eduard PE, which livens up the cockpit if you are building it with the canopy open. The one I'm building at the moment will have the canopy closed, but has PE instrument panels and harnesses on the kit seats. The cockpit is so visible on the Hawk that enhancing these bits are a must. The framing bars and brackets on the cockpit sidewalls can be replicated quite easily with plastic strip. I'm using the Kuivalainen PE for this build, and the only difference I can see is in the gunsight, which is fairly irelevant for a Red Arrow anyway, (It even has Eduard stamped in the corner of the fret). A Hawk expert might well put me right. I can recommend the Flory Models DVD on building this kit, which uses the Eduard Big Ed set and shows what it looks like. There are also useful tips on getting a good gloss finish, and how to mask the markings, as the decals can look pinkish with the red showing through from underneath unless you double them up. I would also recommend the metal pitot from Master Barrels, which is a lot stronger than the plastic part and looks very good. I didn't bother doing too much to the wheelwells, as they are invisible behind the bay doors unless you pick the model up and turn it over. An ink wash to pop the detail and some bare metal foil on the shiny bits improves the look. Best of luck with the builds - that's quite a challenge! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan P Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 I would recommend the Eduard cockpit set as well as the CMK Mk10 seats if posing with the canopy open, as there is no sanding and fettling required to fit them to the kit. The Hawk sits quite close to the ground, so the wheelwells really are for modeller's preference, as they can't be seen at all when it is on display. The main issue with this kit is the intakes, which no-one has a fix for. FOD covers or some lengthy sanding sessions will be required, as you can see the intake problems when it is on display, especially in a gloss finish. The kit wheels can be easily modified to slightly weight them and the treads are circumferential grooves and can be scribed very easily. Not much else to go wrong, it is quite a basic aeroplane by definition! Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caution Wake Turbulence Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 The main issue with this kit is the intakes, which no-one has a fix for. FOD covers or some lengthy sanding sessions will be required, as you can see the intake problems when it is on display, especially in a gloss finish. Heritage do seamless intakes, don't they? Don't know if they're any good. Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 Has anyone tried fitting the wheel bays?, do you need to thin the plastic on the wings? Shaun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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