Sean_M Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 This is my alternative project so that I don't get too bogged down in rivet counting on my Hurricane build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_M Posted August 18, 2013 Author Share Posted August 18, 2013 Anyway I have just started and I noticed in the assembly instruction for the engine it has a tube that says "Poly Top". Any ideas? I must have missed this class in modelling 101... Anyone care to enlighten me....SURLY IT CANT BE THE CAP TO CLOSE THE GLUE? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Dragon Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 No, there should be a bag with some soft plastic 'doughnuts', these are retaining caps for various parts, the one you are talking about is, I would guess, for the propellor. Phil Anyway I have just started and I noticed in the assembly instruction for the engine it has a tube that says "Poly Top". Any ideas? I must have missed this class in modelling 101... Anyone care to enlighten me....SURLY IT CANT BE THE CAP TO CLOSE THE GLUE? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parabat Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 +1 on what Red said. There should be a small vinyl sprue of four little 'washers'. Insert one of these into the crankshaft assembly to provide a working/moveable propellor! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seawinder Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 They're generally black, in case that'll help you spot them. BTW, how many rivets are there on the Hurricane? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_M Posted August 24, 2013 Author Share Posted August 24, 2013 DEM TINGS - We all live and learn, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_M Posted August 24, 2013 Author Share Posted August 24, 2013 Well the build is progressing. Another question the instructions say pain the inside of the fuselage XF-22 (which is kind green) the cockpit tub is to be painted XF-63 ( A dark/black grey) I have looked at a number of sources and cockpit seemed to be either closer to one colour or the other but not a combination of the two. Would someone care to enlighten me. BTW I know there are countless discussions on mixing colours to get the correct RLM shade. This project is to perfect my modelling skills and finish a kit. While I do want some accuracy, I am not going to try and perfect the closest shade to an particular RLM colour by mixing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 Well the build is progressing. Another question the instructions say pain the inside of the fuselage XF-22 (which is kind green) the cockpit tub is to be painted XF-63 ( A dark/black grey) I have looked at a number of sources and cockpit seemed to be either closer to one colour or the other but not a combination of the two. Would someone care to enlighten me. BTW I know there are countless discussions on mixing colours to get the correct RLM shade. This project is to perfect my modelling skills and finish a kit. While I do want some accuracy, I am not going to try and perfect the closest shade to an particular RLM colour by mixing. XF-22 is Tamiya version of RLM02 grau, standard german primer paint, also used externally in mottle and as uppersurface colour of BoB era Bf109 & Bf110. It's a light greeny grey. Replaced as a cockpit colour by RLM 66 Schwarz grau [black grey] XF-63 is the Tamiya equivalent. As both are primers they varied in colour a bit. [ I read elsewhere that the formula for RLM66 changed 10 times...] Some early Fw 190's might have had RLM02 cockpits, but most would have RLM66. Rest of the internals would be RLM02, except late in the war when they dropped the use of primer. Use the Tamiya recommendations and don't worry. Humbrol have just done some new Acrylic RLM colours though, which are supposed to be good see here - http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234943663-airfix-172-fw190a-8-a-look-in-the-box-and-a-build-with-new-humbrol-acrylics/ I've read that the Tamiya XF-22 is not the best match for RLM02, but it's not horribly wrong. HTH T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 If you are used to using Tamiya acrylics then I'd suggest treating your self to a bottle of Gunze H-70 which is their take on RLM02 and is a very good match unlike Tamiya's which is nothing like! In fact you wouldn't go far wrong using Gunze paint for all your build, the No's you would need are... H68 RLM74. H69 RLM75. H416 RLM66, although the Tamiya's XF63 isn't a bad match. H417 RLM76. Tim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_M Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share Posted August 26, 2013 BMW 801 D-2 - any suggestions on how these looked in front line service? I normally just paint my engines black as they are not all clean an sparkly (as seen in museum pics). However I have not done a radial engine before. So please post suggestions, The Tamiya painting guide seems to indicate all black. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deanflyer Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 Hi Sean, unless you're exposing the engine in some way, I really wouldn't worry about it. There's a cooling fan which sits in the opening of the cowling and pretty much obscures everything: I painted mine black and forgot about it... Hope that helps, Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parabat Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 As Dean says, you won't see much of it at all with the cooling fan, so a gun metal or aluminum colour is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOAN Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 (edited) Sean, a quick look on google give this : Nice build anyway. Just a comment : forget the Aires wheels bay. It is a real knightmare . My copie was too small and can't be put in place whithout a huge work of sanding and filling. There is a big offset of the of gun barrels alignment and of course landing gears, wich also can't fit anymore the pin you need to have the good angle - in two axis - on the FW..! The only good resin set could be the cockpit but the Tamiya is really great. A simple "zoom" is enough to have a nice build. ( the hood is very good and no vac is necessary...) I just don't like the excessive recess lines of the fuselage and fill my A-3 to match closer of reality... The only problem I have found with the real one is the bend you have on the canopy when it is open. The frame have an axis on the top and the more you pull back the canopy the more the frame is bended around this axis to follow the thickness of the fuselage with the guide you have on each side of the cockpit ( easy to do with a simple engraving line ). I don't know how to make this "bended" hood...nor A3 and D9 representations have a this detail of a bended canopy system. ( Eduard ? ) a really good and pleasant build isn't it ? cheers Olivier Edited August 27, 2013 by JOAN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire31 Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 I don't know how to make this "bended" hood...nor A3 and D9 representations have a this detail of a bended canopy system. Which is why a vacformed sliding canopy might be a rather good idea after all ;-) Kind regards, Joachim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tango98 Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 Oliver, Just had a thought on how you might get the canopy to confiorm to the fuselage with the canopy open without having to use a vac-form canopy.. Why not run a fine razor saw along from the top front centre of the canopy to make a slot about 1 to 1.5 mm in length. this *should* remove enough stress from the canpy to allow the lower edges to conform to the edges of the cockpit edging. I would think that if you work carefully this would work and then you could fix a thin, narrow strip over the opening that you cut to represent the piano-type hinge fitted to the real Fw 190 canopy. However, you might want to try the method on some old canopies first to make sure it will work. HTH Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOAN Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 Dave, many thanks for the process. I think remenber something similar somewhere in Wingmasters. I have the old fujimi and i will work on it that way....Actually i would go to a fake wooden factory test model with this one... so a mistake have no consequence. Joachim, yes i thought about it but to be honest I dont feel confortable with " klear". Did you test it ? O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 Sean one little item you may wish to consider, the Tamiya kit's wheels are a bit small see - http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/fw190landinggear_2.htm Note the Eduard kit comes with two sets of wheels,one ribbed, the other smooth. I'm sure if you asked in the wanted section some member would send you one of the spare ones. [i would, but i need the 'spare' ones myself.] HTH T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_M Posted August 28, 2013 Author Share Posted August 28, 2013 Sean one little item you may wish to consider, the Tamiya kit's wheels are a bit small see - http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/fw190landinggear_2.htm Note the Eduard kit comes with two sets of wheels,one ribbed, the other smooth. I'm sure if you asked in the wanted section some member would send you one of the spare ones. [i would, but i need the 'spare' ones myself.] HTH T Well here is me asking. I am enjoying this build and I am glad to see it has opened up a topic of conversation. I am taking photo's and will post them when I am past my nervousness of scuppering the build before it is finished. I am not trying to win any prizes at Telford with this one, just do a respectable build. So if anyone has any Wheels or bits "YES PLEASE". PM for my address Thanks Sean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_M Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 Fw 190A-3, Wk. Nr. 2181, "Black 13", 8./JG2, France 1942 Does anyone have some good pictures of the sides of the aircraft. A 2nd best is the Hasegawa Instruction sheet. Tamiya instructions are of no help. I specifically need some guide with the mottelling for this aircraft Thanks Sean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOAN Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Sean, have a look here : http://pwm.org.pl/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=19955&start=15 http://www.themodellingnews.com/2011/08/building-pacific-coast-models-focke.html Cheers olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_M Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 Thanks. I have spent hours looking at how others have interpreted this subject in there models. Someone (on here - positively???) pointed out that the panel shading had been over done on the subject. Reason given was that the Germans took pride in their aircraft and maintained them. I see from the picks that there appears to be the usual worn look on the wing roots. The A-3 is 1942 c. Would The experts hazard a guess on weathering. I have not pre-shaded and was going to try a new product that you apply after the model is fineshed and then wipe off. Damned if I can remember what I bought. The idea is to give a somewhat combat/service look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Hi, Olivier, See the guy chose to finish it in 71/02... arguable, but his choice (I m an old fashioned 74/75 man...) But undersurfaces... not a so deep 65! And,if the repaint was done in the field... would 76 have been overpainted? Fernando Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_M Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 I believe that the std from 1941 was 74/75/76 http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/colorcharts/stuff_eng_colorcharts_germany.htm I am no expert but I am going with this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 There is a current doctrine stating that at least some early 109F-1/2s and some early 190A-2/3s at the Channel Front somehow reverted to 71/02 camo. I seem to remember it had some documentary support, otherwise, it would be dismissed as a quite contradictory move by the Germans. Fernando Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOAN Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 For the mine, the classic 74/75/76 pattern was choosen. I usually soften 74 and 75 with a mix of each other. it is probably an heritage of my old brush process to use thinner to merge the tone. I also tried to make the fuselage black eagle ( not the head ) with the white outline by paint. I am definitely not comfortable with decals...havn't any photos of my butcher since the Aires wheels bay make me so much problems that I have decided to update this kit into a new scheme : a fw-190 under repair at Cravant factory...2/3 nmf and 1/3 camo. We will see..... olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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