Taking the Alclad plunge

[NickR]

Righto, seen so many on here wax lyrical about the stuff it's time I got on board.

However, I am not made of money so want to start on a smallish scale.

What colours would you say are essential to get me started? I will be mainly using them on exhausts both jet and combustion (priority in current project) but also metal bits such as undercarriage, antennae etc and sponging paint chips. I have a BMF project way down the line but can cross that bridge when I come to it.

Also, to save replacing current materials, I take it I can prime with Halfords or Mr Surfacer and apply Vallejo Satin and Matt glosses as well as Klear over the top. I also use all acrylic paint - I think I read somewhere that as long as you don't douse it you can overspray acrylics ok.

Smells nice too apparently but guess a mask is in order?

Any other tips gratefully received

Thanks in advance

Edited August 16, 2013 by NickR

[rmcclure]

There are so many threads on this topic - you can probably do no better than read this - http://www.swannysmodels.com/Alclad.html

[Nigel Heath]

The colours I use the most and that would be of most use to you are probably:

Burnt Iron (almost black with a slight coppery metallic sheen to it)

Pale Burnt Metal (slivery with a goldish tint)

Airframe Aluminium (my base go-to aluminium finish)

Dull Aluminium

Aluminium

Polished Aluminium (these are all good for creating variation in NMFs)

Steel (gunmetally)

I have also used:

Chromium (this finish is quite amazing, it really gives a mirror finish when applied over gloss black - I've used it on polished aluminium propellers)

I have not used but it sounds like you would have a use for:

Jet Exhaust and

Exhaust Manifold

I'm not sure you'll be able to use for sponging paint chips, they are really only designed for airbrushing. You can brush paint with them by not shaking the bottles and dipping a brush in the sediment at the bottom but its a bit hit or miss.

"I take it I can undercoat with Halfords or Mr Surfacer and apply Vallejo Satin and Matt glosses as well as Klear over the top" - Yes but be warned that when freshly applied it can have a tendency to rub off high spots, even when over coated with Klear.

“I think I read somewhere that as long as you don't douse it you can overspray acrylics ok." - Yes, it flashes off so quickly that it doesn't have time to affect the paint underneath. If you spray on a great pool of the stuff it would probably be a different matter.

I don't bother with a mask but do ensure I have plenty of ventilation - I quite like the smell but its probably not that good for me.

I hope that's of use.

Nigel

Oh yes I forgot to add that they can all be intermixed to create your own custom shade. Mke sure you have plenty for the job in hand as they disapper through your airbrush at an alarming rate.

Edited August 16, 2013 by Nigel Heath

[NickR]

There are so many threads on this topic - you can probably do no better than read this - http://www.swannysmodels.com/Alclad.html

Thanks rmcclure - that is really useful and answers most of my questions and more!!

The colours I use the most and that would be of most use to you are probably:

Burnt Iron (almost black with a slight coppery metallic sheen to it)

Pale Burnt Metal (slivery with a goldish tint)

Airframe Aluminium (my base go-to aluminium finish)

Dull Aluminium

Aluminium

Polished Aluminium (these are all good for creating variation in NMFs)

Steel (gunmetally)

I have also used:

Chromium (this finish is quite amazing, it really gives a mirror finish when applied over gloss black - I've used it on polished aluminium propellers)

I have not used but it sounds like you would have a use for:

Jet Exhaust and

Exhaust Manifold

I'm not sure you'll be able to use for sponging paint chips, they are really only designed for airbrushing. You can brush paint with them by not shaking the bottles and dipping a brush in the sediment at the bottom but its a bit hit or miss.

"I take it I can undercoat with Halfords or Mr Surfacer and apply Vallejo Satin and Matt glosses as well as Klear over the top" - Yes but be warned that when freshly applied it can have a tendency to rub off high spots, even when over coated with Klear.

“I think I read somewhere that as long as you don't douse it you can overspray acrylics ok." - Yes, it flashes off so quickly that it doesn't have time to affect the paint underneath. If you spray on a great pool of the stuff it would probably be a different matter.

I don't bother with a mask but do ensure I have plenty of ventilation - I quite like the smell but its probably not that good for me.

I hope that's of use.

Nigel

Oh yes I forgot to add that they can all be intermixed to create your own custom shade. Mke sure you have plenty for the job in hand as they disapper through your airbrush at an alarming rate.

Thanks Nigel - that is really helpful and I will be getting an order in today - woohoo!

[Nigel Heath]

Have fun, they can be frustrating at times (see my Rotordyne build thread for the sordid details) but the finish they give is unmatched by anything else on the market IMHO.

Edited August 16, 2013 by Nigel Heath

[Peter Marshall]

Three words for working with Alcads - RESPIRATOR, RESPIRATOR, RESPIRATOR

not a dust mask but a respirator with an organic filter (that's in date). They are pretty nasty things, and anyway you should be using a mask for spraying acrylics.

Other than that and the tips already given, you have to ensure the surface is smooth and grease free, so some lint free gloves help to avoid fingerprints.

HTH

Peter

[NickR]

Three words for working with Alcads - RESPIRATOR, RESPIRATOR, RESPIRATOR

not a dust mask but a respirator with an organic filter (that's in date). They are pretty nasty things, and anyway you should be using a mask for spraying acrylics.

Other than that and the tips already given, you have to ensure the surface is smooth and grease free, so some lint free gloves help to avoid fingerprints.

HTH

Peter

Thanks Peter - will look into a respirator

Lint free gloves - can I use non powdered latex ones (got lots of these) or will they melt if they get anywhere near the laquer?

[Nigel Heath]

Yeh, there have absolutely no hiding power whatsoever; your surface needs to be essentially perfect.

[Nigel Heath]

As to the gloves, I think latex will be attacked. I prefer the blue nitrile gloves, as they don't have that horrid rubbery smell and you don't need to have to keep applying talcum powder to get them on, but even these are damaged by direct contact with cellulose based products. The only time my gloves get near the solvent is during airbrush clean up, it does accelerate their demise but these gloves have a finite life even under optimum conditions.

[NickR]

As to the gloves, I think latex will be attacked. I prefer the blue nitrile gloves, as they don't have that horrid rubbery smell and you don't need to have to keep applying talcum powder to get them on, but even these are damaged by direct contact with cellulose based products. The only time my gloves get near the solvent is during airbrush clean up, it does accelerate their demise but these gloves have a finite life even under optimum conditions.

Cheers Nigel

[Nigel Heath]

My pleasure. I just hope my random input is of some use.

[paganpete]

Hmm, I do not airbrush, are there any alternatives to alclad that are easier to work with and give similar results; or is alclad the holy grail (I have heard about testors metalizer)!

Pete