Ex-FAAWAFU Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 I'm sorry, but your standards are clearly slipping; the deviation card is missing from that E2B, and it isn't lurching about in that drunken manner like as you recovered from some UPs. Strake, schmake; that compass & meter is scarily good. I'd be chuffed to bits with that in The Gentleman's Scale in which I model aeroplanes, but at 1/72 it is exquisite. Great to see you back. [barbados? I'm in the wrong job...] 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 I've been watching it off and on since about 2011 when Wiggo broke his collar bone - but only got addicted this year. As the missus and I get older - and going running to keep fit is getting harder on the joints - we're thinking of switching to doing more cycling instead. Off to Specialized this weekend to look at fancy (well fancy for us) road bikes..... Them nose strakes is my pride and joy! - How sad is that!!!! I wish I could cycle again, unfortunately the health problem precludes it. My son's got a rather nice Specialized road bike, I rode it for a hundred yards or so when he first got it, & even in that distance couldn't believe the difference from the clunkers I had in my yoof...!! Those pukka race bikes must be amazing! And I don't think pride in those nose strakes is sad at all - one of those things that you think is going to be a really simple job - until you try & get them as neat as that...!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 with my rebuilt knees I can't bend the knee up as far as pedal top without excruciation Boy I wish I could I'd be biking again like a shot Simply sublime model working sah! The screen fitting using stuporglue still has me shuddering, that stuff scares me I expected fogging even though you have Klear coated it all, scaredycat me love the meters b 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 The screen fitting using stuporglue still has me shuddering, that stuff scares me I expected fogging even though you have Klear coated it all, Whereas I'm terrified that if I don't use at least a drop or two of cyano it'll come off in my hand after it's all been blended in and painted etc etc.... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Whereas I'm terrified that if I don't use at least a drop or two of cyano it'll come off in my hand after it's all been blended in and painted etc etc.... Ditto! Touch wood, but I find just small drops on a Kleered canopy don't have any adverse effects. So far, & famous last words...!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Nice work with the canopy, The compass looks excellent in there too. coming together nicely. Are we going to see paint before snow?? Keep it up. Seconded on the stakes too! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Great to see some more progress on this. I do enjoy this thread. Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Ditto, very enjoyable, I just wish I could model like that. Fantastic stuff. All the bestChris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Trying to keep a little forward momentum now that work/life permits. Now I'm not the most analy retentive of modellers ( ) but I do think that the canopy/fuselage joint is an eye magnet - so I spent a good while last night slowly building up the join with several layers of Mr Surfacer 1000. I thinned with Mr Color levelling thinner and applied with a fine brush. I have to say that thinning the stuff makes it a lot easier to handle and a lot less prone to drying too quickly, getting lumpy and dragging. Of course the price is that it has to be built up more slowly in several layers - but it's only time after all..... It should have dried properly by now and so later on I'll try rubbing it down and see how it looks. I expect it'll need at least one more application. Save for the canopy there are only a couple of little jobs to do before priming. I will have to decide which ariels to put on/leave off - but firstly there are the wing tip nav lights. I'm going to use the same method a Cheshiretaurus and his vampire - a square of clear sprue with a hole drilled in the back for the bulb and a blob of red or green paint. On the real JP5a the area under the nav light covers is painted white (or near white) and rather than try and paint the back of the clear sprue white - which would make it difficult to glue in place - I thought the easiest way of replicating it would be to make the cut out in the wing tip oversize - and then line it with a bit of white plastic right angle cross section: Which I cut using my recently acquired mini mitre block (which is fabulously useful): And I've left that to harden overnight as well. See I've been away for a months and now I'm overdosing on insignificant little updates..........oh well.... Steve 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Those mitre boxes are the dogs' doo-dahs, especially when it comes to any sort of scratch building. Ditto the Levelling Thinners, though I hadn't thought of using it to slow down Mr Surfacer; top tip! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 May I ask where you get those mitre boxes from, they look very good! And apologies if this is teaching granny to su...etc, but do you know that you can wipe off Mr Surfacer with a cotton bud dipped in IPA (& no, not the ale!) - I find the Tamiya small pointed 'swabs' - as they call them - excellent for this. Paint on a layer of Mr.S with a small pointed brush, moisten a swab with IPA, wipe it off. the Mr S is dry almost immediately - repeat until your happy with the join. I find that usually you can then get a perfect finish in areas like the canopy/fuselage join with no sanding needed. (those thinners may also work instead of IPA) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 (edited) Great stuff that Mr surfacer used 500 & 1000 on the T11 windscreen join, but didnt thin it, only because I didnt think of it. May I ask where you get those mitre boxes from, they look very good! And apologies if this is teaching granny to su...etc, but do you know that you can wipe off Mr Surfacer with a cotton bud dipped in IPA (& no, not the ale!) - I find the Tamiya small pointed 'swabs' - as they call them - excellent for this. Paint on a layer of Mr.S with a small pointed brush, moisten a swab with IPA, wipe it off. the Mr S is dry almost immediately - repeat until your happy with the join. I find that usually you can then get a perfect finish in areas like the canopy/fuselage join with no sanding needed. (those thinners may also work instead of IPA) Little cars do the JLC mitres, dont have one myself yet but its been on the wish list for a while. Not sure if the price is up to date but the P005 that Fritag used is £20.00 but it says it can only use the JLC saw, £12.50. thay also now have another one for round stock the P006 at £11.00 but I cant find it on the Little cars website. So £11 & £20 for very similar item makes me wonder if one of the prices is maybe wrong. Now I wonder, has anyone used IPA to thin Mr Surfacer? Edited July 16, 2014 by Cheshiretaurus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Thin Mr S with IPA? I'm not overkeen on Mr S but I have used IPA on it and it works well More great stuff again Steve b 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Yep its the JLC P005 - I got it off evil bay but it was basically the same price as Little Cars (£19.90). I already had the JLC razor saw and It's proved really useful. The JLC razor saw has very thin blades and the mitre box has commendably thin guide cut outs and won't work with any of my other razor saws - which have thicker blades. I'll have to try wiping-off the Mr Surfacer rather than sanding it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Now I wonder, has anyone used IPA to thin Mr Surfacer? Yes! I also use cellulose thinners. And ta both for the info on the mitre boxes/saws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 The right angle profile white strip idea is working so far: And I think one more application of Mr S should do it: But why did I bother dipping the screen in Klear when I was only going to have to micromesh it off again whilst smoothing down the Mr S? 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Screen looks ok from where I'm standing, cant wait to see the result of the finished nav lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 (edited) That nag light is excellent. [Reminder to self: 1/72, 1/72, 1/72...] For "nag" read "nav" - an auto-correct of Freudian interest! Edited July 16, 2014 by Ex-FAAWAFU 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Procopius Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Ditto the Levelling Thinners, though I hadn't thought of using it to slow down Mr Surfacer; top tip! Yes, I found that one pretty choice too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 (edited) One more application of Mr S and a bit of time with the micromesh cracked it: Nicely blended in. Nav (Nag?) lights finished as well. Clear sprue squared off, drilled and painted. Cut and glued: Trimed, filed and micromeshed. Not bad: Another couple of little jobs checked off the list...... Now - back to Mark's Vampire thread to see how he masked off his nav lights...... Edited July 16, 2014 by Fritag 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 I'm, never going to be able to keep up with you pair Esoteroric masking skins wasnt it? The nag lights look ace, Ace and the faired in screen is fair as can be Looking good dude Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamden Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 I really look forward to reading this thread, not only extremely good modelling but lots of great tips and story's as well Looking forward to seeing these in war paint(how is the JP3) Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Now - back to Mark's Vampire thread to see how he masked off his nav lights...... Maskol is the best way I've found to keep the little blighters covered up - masking tape always seems to peel off at the most inopportune time - such as just when I've pointed the airbrush at them & pressed the trigger...!! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 A battle well fought with the canopy and welcome back. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 (edited) Nag lights (sorry Ex-FAAWAFU its stuck now) look fantastic nice job! Now - back to Mark's Vampire thread to see how he masked off his nav lights...... I tried tamiya tape - too small too fiddly wouldn't conform to such a tight compound curve couldnt get it to stay in place. Maskol couldn't get a sharp edge. Maskol then cut the edge with a scalpel - wouldnt cut without too much effort and the maskol was just falling off anyway due to not enough surface area. Then the 'Parafilm M' idea came along. (dont know what the M means) Bit of video here to give an idea of what this stuff is Although he says $25 or so at the end thats for 250ft, you can get short lengths 1 or 2 meters from ebay for less than £3 Mark Edited July 18, 2014 by Cheshiretaurus 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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