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Best F-15E strike eagle any scale


thepureness

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now hold there partner the new Hasegawa 1/72 F-15E is a lot better then their earlier version. Having said that there are a few good ones in 1/48 or you can go for the tamiya one, needs updating but still the best one in 1/32.

Edited by hacker
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now hold there partner the new Hasegawa 1/72 F-15E is a lot better then their earlier version. Having said that there are a few good ones in 1/48 or you can go for the tamiya one, needs updating but still the best one in 1/32.

Hi Hacker

Yeah, the old Hase kit is/was showing it`s age but Hasegawa`s `new` kit is still just an update of their two-seat fighter kit in 72nd scale, whiles kits in 48th and 32nd are specifically moulded to be `E` versions. Some pertinent points here; http://zone-five.net/showthread.php?t=20619

The best advice for the best `E` is still 48th and 32nd IMHO.

Cheers, Ian

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To get an accurate E, i used the revised recessed panel line boxing of the hasegawa/revell kit with the Wolfpack Designs conversion which has the bulged U/C doors and CFT's plus a few other bits except the pylons which you have to scratch build.

I did a build here. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234933605-hts-f-15e-lakenheath-mudhen/

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If you want big, then go for Tamiya's 32nd monster. It has some great detail and builds up to a real beastie. If you crave total accuracy, there are a number of things that will need addressing, though.

If space is a concern, then I'd suggest the Revell 48th kit. Nicely detailed from the box, builds very well and looks great. Again, will need some tweaks/updates and additions for complete accuracy, though.

In my opinion, these are the best 2 Mudhens available at this time.

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I'm currently building the Revell 1:48 kit and while it's true that there is great detail in the box and the fit/engineering is well done as well, there is a bit of work involved to bring it up to date and make it accurate for a modern Strike Eagle (wheels, LAU 128 launchers, horizontal stabilizer/rudder stiffeners, various antennae, nosewheel shimmy damper...).

I've heard/read really good things about the most recent Hasegawa release though (1:48 Tiger Meet boxing) which has got some all new conformal fuselage tanks and other bits so the kit finally is a true F-15E, not some kind of D/E hybrid. This is probably the most accurate and detailed kit in 1:48 at the moment. HLJ has it for quite a good price at the moment as well.

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1/32 Tamiya and in smallest scale is very nice Revell and Academy " Operation Iraqi Freedom" or Eduard "Strike Eagles" L.E. (The same kit with new decals and P.E. and resin (Brassin) parts. Revell in Europe and as "America Revell" haven´t weaponry and this is for long range tactical bomber a BIG problem. Academy isn´t too accurate but have very nice weapons set in the box. And Academy make an F-15I "Ra´am" or F-15K with accurate weapons for another export version too. And price is nice. When you can a absolute accurate Strike Eagle, buy Revell, when you need a very nice S.E. with gorgeous payload buy Academy or Eduard.

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hase tigermeet spure shots:

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10198910

and is on offer at big H:

http://www.hannants.co.uk/product/HA07318

Edit:

Academy has re-released this:

http://www.academy.co.kr/eng/1p/1p_plaview.asp?pView=PLA0000001&pCode=849&pScale=SCALE00002

Edited by The dragonborn
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The Revell 1/48 mold is the only one which is a truly accurate Strike Eagle. Every other 1/72 or larger scale model of the Strike Eagle except Fujimi's now withdrawn 1/67 scale example (which was supposed to be 1/72 until someone made a scaling error) has been fundamentally a converted B or D. Tamiya's 1/32 and Hasegawa's recent 1/72 releases are the best of the conversions but both retain some notable B/D features.

The Hasegawa 1/48 scale updates have some improvements but are STILL a B/D with E bits added on, not a proper E.

Doing a proper E requires separate tooling as the rear fuselage differs in things like a completely different set of engine access doors and cannot be produced from the same mold as a B or D unless you are only boxing certain very late Israeli D's (which were E airframes finished as D's and share the basic E airframe but without the gear doors and other minor E features). Hasegawa keeps adding the minor E features they ignored on their previous release stuck on a fundamentally B/D airframe, eventually they will ship an E that is accurate in all regards except the basic fuselage (IIRC they're almost at that point).

That said, the Revell is a Desert Storm era bird and does need updates to reflect a configuration from the mid-90's or later. Wolfpack includes most of the required changes in their update set.

Edited by Adam Maas
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The Revell 1/48 mold is the only one which is a truly accurate Strike Eagle. Every other 1/72 or larger scale model of the Strike Eagle except Fujimi's now withdrawn 1/67 scale example (which was supposed to be 1/72 until someone made a scaling error) has been fundamentally a converted B or D. Tamiya's 1/32 and Hasegawa's recent 1/72 releases are the best of the conversions but both retain some notable B/D features.

Hello Adam, this is an interesting observation. Can you specify what areas of the Tamiya "-E" are "-D" features please?

FWIW, I've built two of the big Tamiya birds and had been happy with them to this point. Even built out of the box they appeared to be good representations of the Strike Eagle but I'm now eager to hear Adam's report.

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Hello Adam, this is an interesting observation. Can you specify what areas of the Tamiya "-E" are "-D" features please?

FWIW, I've built two of the big Tamiya birds and had been happy with them to this point. Even built out of the box they appeared to be good representations of the Strike Eagle but I'm now eager to hear Adam's report.

To my knowledge, the Tamiya is basically what the Hasegawa's are evolving into, a kit which is an E aside from the panel lines on the rear fuselage (which I understand they took from their C model, given that the kit dates to 1993, this is somewhat understandable as the differences weren't widely known then). I'm not sure about the airbrake, which would be the other D feature I was referring to (the updated Hasegawa clearly retains a mostly D fuselage, the Tamiya is closer to a proper E).

The newer boxing with the updated sprues also lacks the CFT auxiliary intakes for the -229 engine (but comes with decals for such an aircraft) and the drop tanks are still wrong (albeit better than the original boxing).

That said, the Tamiya is the second best E on the market and the best in 1/32 scale.

Overall

Edited by Adam Maas
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Where do I get good line drawings of the F-15E?

I went for the new tool Hasegawa F-15E simply because I wanted one in 1:72. I will try to correct the known issues but I had some trouble in understanding what is wrong with some of the parts when I compared them with my few references.

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To my knowledge, the Tamiya is basically what the Hasegawa's are evolving into, a kit which is an E aside from the panel lines on the rear fuselage (which I understand they took from their C model, given that the kit dates to 1993, this is somewhat understandable as the differences weren't widely known then). I'm not sure about the airbrake, which would be the other D feature I was referring to (the updated Hasegawa clearly retains a mostly D fuselage, the Tamiya is closer to a proper E).

The newer boxing with the updated sprues also lacks the CFT auxiliary intakes for the -229 engine (but comes with decals for such an aircraft) and the drop tanks are still wrong (albeit better than the original boxing).

That said, the Tamiya is the second best E on the market and the best in 1/32 scale.

Overall

Fascinating Adam, thank you for your response.

I had read elsewhere that the rear fuselage on the Tamiya kit actually represented an "-E" and it was necessary to modify the panel lines on their single seat model if the builder wanted an accurate "-C".

Do the airbrakes differ from model to model? I know newer airframes have the honeycomb looking underside but apart from early airframes I thought the airbrakes were all identical. (Hence the reason many reference photos show aircraft with odd coloured airbrakes)

It's interesting reading your comments as I was under the impression that "-D's" and "-E's" are virtually the same outwardly.

There are a number of elements that differ of course like bulged gear doors, CFT's, extra space for the gun ammo and some of the antenna array but is n't the silhouette similar?

:doh: Jeepers! What am I doing? It's only a model :analintruder:

:tomato:

The pureness, just have fun building whatever F-15E model you ultimately decide on.

:lol:

Edited by geedubelyer
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  • 2 weeks later...

Where do I get good line drawings of the F-15E?

I went for the new tool Hasegawa F-15E simply because I wanted one in 1:72. I will try to correct the known issues but I had some trouble in understanding what is wrong with some of the parts when I compared them with my few references.

Okay I do not know if this will help but hope it goes a little way to assist you.

If you look on the menu it says 'technology'. Well if you click on the subjects under it it will take you to that topic which in turn has information that may assist you..lots of interlinked links denoted by the blue writing etc.... Each link I have posted , well if you go to the very end has related links like the cutaway etc.... You will find that helpful...

So....

http://www.f-15e.info/joomla/en/technology/cockpit/86-pilot-instruments

And.....

http://www.f-15e.info/joomla/en/technology/airframe/60-airframe-in-general

Then there's this....

http://www.f-15e.info/joomla/en/technology/engines/101-engines

And you get this cutout...if using iPad..use fingers to enlarge for a better perspective view....

http://www.f-15e.info/multimedia/cutaway_fullsize.htm

Edited by HOUSTON
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:doh: Jeepers! What am I doing? It's only a model :analintruder:

:tomato:

The pureness, just have fun building whatever F-15E model you ultimately decide on.

:lol:

To which end l agree. There are always inaccuracies with any model and whether you choose to fix these or not it is up the modeller. If they are as subtle as the panel line which unless you are one who worked on it or a guru of the subject who would notice? Now the weapon's station on the conform tank is an obvious fix as anyone can see that it is missing which Hasegawa amended in their recent release. In the end my question is when done does it look the part? My answer is when done properly yes even with the minor errors (again who would know unless pointed out?) Just find one that suits your fancy and build it. Enjoy what it brings you or the frustration :lol: and feel of accomplishment when done. That is my advice to you

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Well it certainly depend on the mistake in the kit. First how noticeable it is and second how easily it can be fixed. I might accept a more obvious mistake which is hard to fix but correct some other which is only noticeable by the "subject enthusiast" but which can be fixed easily. So when I know what to change (who cares for mistakes he does not know of...) I first decide if the effort is worth the problem.

Then I certainly like to know about known issues (those I spotted or those I read about somewhere) as good as possible - before I finish the kit :banghead:

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