Crowbar Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 (edited) After my Spitfire build I though of continuing my WW2, 1/48 theme. I am hoping for a less stressful build and less mistakes. For that I will try to be less adventurous and more patient.The starting point is Tamiya's kit, Aires Cockpit, Master gun tips and since I took the photo below added the Eduard FE205 (to compensate for an accident I had with the photo-etched of the Aires set) and an excellent decal sheet from Lifelike Decals (48-018). After the Spit I am a bit scared of the Tamiya decals and I want to experiment a bit, once I get my hands on some suitable solvents. Being an airbrush novice I am going for the standard RLM71/02/65 which is easy to handle and building the aircraft of Maj. Ernst Freiherr von Berg (Kdr. III/JG26)Started with the cockpit but I could not resist myself and added a few bits and bobs...aAnd airbrushed with a custom mix of RLM02 that seemed ok...One thing I wanted to do was add a bit of character in the cockpit. Going past the confusion with the colours (gray floors, tan floors) which at the moment I have limited resources to clarify I decided to add some padding on the seat, much like the one from Cutting Edge in their 1/32 replacement. I just loved it when I saw it.I made the padding from some led foil.Some paint chipping on the top will be sorted later...I have added the harness and instrument panel from Eduard as the one from Aires got damaged (don't ask...)Cockpit painted, weathered, dry-brushed and approved by my wife...Comments and suggestions welcomed as always... Edited July 27, 2013 by Crowbar 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhtmo Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 That cockpit is stunning. Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum Posted July 14, 2013 Share Posted July 14, 2013 Nice cockpit work 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MADMUSKY Posted July 14, 2013 Share Posted July 14, 2013 Nice work 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Superb work, this is quite stunning. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowbar Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 (edited) Back to the 109, after a small break... I did a few fit tests, as the Aires cockpit was giving me some trouble but I managed to smooth out most issues. I had done lot of testing to begin with and it was simpler to put things together further on. The only part I was not happy with was the area behind the pilots head - where the fit of the Aires kit was not perfect. I tried to mask most of the detail and filled in the gaps with some putty. I am not worried about the detail there as I can recreate most with pieces from the Eduard details kit. Next step, the wings... Edited July 27, 2013 by Crowbar 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOUSTON Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Crowbar , Beautiful rendition of the cockpit. I am very impressed by your seat et al.. EXEMPLARY workmanship so far.... Keep it coming..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 (edited) Some nice little touches going on in that cockpit although I can't say that I've ever seen the rear of a 109s seat that as had a cushion on it, but I may be wrong, early 109s aren't my thing, It looks excellent though, very convincing and you've got those belts to hang a treat, something I can never do. You've been pretty unlucky with that Aires pit as most of the time with their stuff you need to thin everything down to get what ever you're fitting in. If after you've sanded things down and lost the hatch door detail and it isn't included in the Eduard p/e let me know, I may have one you can have. Tim. Edited August 4, 2013 by tank152 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowbar Posted August 6, 2013 Author Share Posted August 6, 2013 Hello and thank you for your comments. I have to admit I have absolutely no reference for the cushion, apart from what I have seen in the aforementioned replacement seat. I am generally not extremely worried about 'character' touches such as this because it is fairly hard to say they where not used. I'd use one if I flew one of this! I was more worried about the colour of the cockpit though which is a tad more brownish than RLM02 patches have seen since. But it is hardly noticeable in the assembled cockpit. Since then I modified my RLM02 mix. Re. the Aires set, I am sure it is a combination of bad fit and my clumsiness. I managed to preserve the detail there though. More updates soon!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 Now that is great work on that cockpit! I've only ever completed Luftwaffe subjects strictly OOB but am in awe of those that have the knowledge to do a much better job. Looking forward to seeing this one completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowbar Posted August 7, 2013 Author Share Posted August 7, 2013 I am usually good with cockpits and details - I have a million of kits back in Greece with super-detailed cockpits and...well, that's where I left them. I am much more inexperienced in the airbrush-weathering front. But I am getting there. I need to find some reference about flaps and control surfaces. I am not sure whether the camo scheme extends to hidden surfaces (unlikely I say) or whether they where painted RLM02 as well. Maybe one of the most knowledgeable readers could give me a couple of pointers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 As general rule of thumb all external surfaces would have carried the camouflage colours, all internal surfaces would have been finished in 02. At the back end of 1940 the cockpit/crew area colour changed to RLM66. Towards the end of the war certain areas for example wheel bays would have been left NMF. Tim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knaupel Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 fantastic work Especially I love the seat. It looks gorgeous ! Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topgear29 Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 That is a pit is exhalant. Will be watching this for tips as I am building the Airfix BF109 at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowbar Posted August 7, 2013 Author Share Posted August 7, 2013 (edited) Thank you for your comments. Tim, thank you for the information, confirming my assumptions. I will try to find some references, but all in all I think having a clear difference between the internal part of the flaps and the external-camo area adds to the detail of the model. Back to work! Edited August 7, 2013 by Crowbar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowbar Posted August 10, 2013 Author Share Posted August 10, 2013 Minor update, as I am contemplating on whether I should use a primer on this model, as I have not used one before. During filling gaps and sanding I had an issue (clumsiness...) with the detail under the nose - I had to remodel that area using some plastic sheet The detail behind the pilot's seat was saved... Done the landing gear struts, adding some details with heated sprue and wiring... here shown after oil wash with black And the prop before decals are applied... So, to prime or not to prime? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parabat Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 I'd say prime - it may highlight any little blemishes or discrepancies you can sort out before putting paint down. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 For the reasons given by Parabat you should prime, also priming gives something for your paint to grip to. Nice work on the rear cockpit area and the prop looks good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMCS Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 Liking the look of this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowbar Posted August 22, 2013 Author Share Posted August 22, 2013 (edited) Ok, washing a model for the 2nd time, priming for the 1st time, pre-shading for the 2nd too. I primed with Tamiya's gray - I generally hate cans and this was definitely not my cup of tea. It felt very uncontrollable compared to my airbrush set-up. However, I realised that even if you are clumsy, let it dry... I got to admit I was surprised how smoothly it spreads.However, I will be looking into other, more subtle ways to make this work. But... I was very happy with the outcome, shown below before inspection and minor tweaks. After I let it dry for 24 hours I got a bit busy with work and... well, I effectively let it dry for a week Then my new favourite stage, pre-shading with Tamiya's XF-1. In retrospect I could have used a deep gray for a more subtle effect but I will make this work. I was a bit clumsy at points but I suppose this will become better with experience. I hope at least... Anyway, who says weathering should not be clumsy... I guess now it is down to how the top coats work out. See you soon! Edited August 22, 2013 by Crowbar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickR Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 Excellent stuff! I do like seeing a primed model - something so smooth and uniform about it that brings out the shapes and details (and the areas requiring improvement fortunately/unfortunatley) Keep up the good work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 (edited) Looks good to go for a coat of paint. For priming next time I'd recommend buying your self some Mr Primer Surfacer 1000 which is what I use or some Alclad grey primer which comes ready mixed for spraying. If you choose the Primer Surfacer get your self some Mr Colour Levelling thinner to thin it with, you can also use this to thin Tamiya and Gunze acrylics. I know pre shading is a personal thing but I'm not a big fan of it my self, I prefer to add darker/lighter colours to my base colours as I go along, that way things can be kept more subtle. Looking forward to your next update. Tim. Edited August 22, 2013 by tank152 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruudster Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 Looking good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowbar Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share Posted August 26, 2013 Quite a bit of progress during this week... I tried to keep the pre-shading intact and masked areas in steps. I first started with RLM02. Tried to keep the shades as visible as possible, scared a bit off covering the effect And the belly... Then started with the top... As is barely visible on the pic above I did a bit of light streaking with lighter tones to add a further weathering effect. It is the first time I use this technique and I was a bit conservative, careful not to make a mess of it... And one with the all the bits of the wing 'mounted' The underside was treated to some light highlighting in the same manner Apologies for the poor pictures. Will try to take some better ones when the model is finished. I am reasonably happy with the result, gained quite a bit of confidence with the airbrush and tried new things. As I said before, I think it the only way to gain experience. Thanks for reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parabat Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 Looking good, some neat masking and spraying there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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