WW-1 British "male" tank plans ?

[Erwin]

Hi all,

I'm thinking to scratchbuild a large British "male" tank soon.

But I could do with some bleuprints,plans,diagrams ,etc... to get the right measurements.

Are their any plans to buy ?

[Erwin]

.........

Edited June 29, 2013 by Erwin

[Black Knight]

I do know that plans are freely available thru the internet; but it does tend to be which mark you wish to build.

[Erwin]

I do know that plans are freely available thru the internet; but it does tend to be which mark you wish to build.

It would be for the male with the 6 pounders .

I looked on the internet but haven't found them.

Edited June 30, 2013 by Erwin

[Nick Belbin]

Hi Erwin,

I've been looking myself recently - discovered this site: http://models.cno-nz.co.nz/gb/148-scale-drawings/#britain

It appears a lot of George Bradford's drawings also appear in a book: http://www.amazon.co.uk/1914-1938-Armored-Fighting-Vehicles-Plans/dp/0811705684/ref=sr_1_5?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1372974409&sr=1-5&keywords=George+Bradford

Nick

[SleeperService]

Just catching up as I've been away for a while so apologies for the delay.

The Bovington Tank museum do plan packs for various AFVs send an email to the library for a current list. I have several and they have a great deal of information in them (for the British subjects I have anyway). See here: http://www.tankmuseum.org/Documents_and_Handbooks

Develop and practice your rivet manufacturing technique!!

[TeeELL]

If you are still searching .... Go to http://landships.activeboard.com, you will find extensive plans on the Mk1 produced by Mk1Nut (with some assistance from me). The plans are scaleable.

[SleeperService]

Just been, looked, amazed. I feel a 48th scratch-build and lots of rivets in the air.

[TeeELL]

Yes, Mk1Nut has done a huge amount of research and her plans are modified as and when new material comes to light. She gets assistance in the identification of 'bits' but the final drawings are all down to her and her Apple Mac. The biggest frustration is that the Bovingdon Mk1 (proper) is in that diorama. Had MasterBox and Takom used her plans then some of the basic errors that are on their models could have been corrected before release.

The Bovington Mk1 has the most pathetic interpretation of a grenade canopy imaginable! I have done significant research into the construction of the tail steering unit and have made corrected units for both the MB and Airfix models and 'how to' is available in the Landships forum.

[SleeperService]

Veering a bit OT but the track frames remained unchanged until the Mk IV or Mk V? I think, so MkInut has done a wonderful thing for all Fans of Things Rhomboidal!

I keep looking at that Armoured Traction engine on the site

[TeeELL]

To be honest, I think you might be surprised at the differences between the Mk1 and, even, the Mk2. Don't have the details to hand but it has something to do with the pitch of the rivets one was built to 'boiler makers' pitch and the other to a different '? makers' pitch.

[Sgt.Squarehead]

The Landships site is definitely the place for information on WWI AFVs, it's not the easiest site to navigate (and posting direct links is even harder) but it's well worth the effort.

[SleeperService]

I know the details change but it's the overall outline I meant. I intend making a couple of Mk I and, if they're the same outline Mk IV as well. Photocopies temp glued to plasticard to act as a pattern.

[blimp]

TeeELL , I believe only the prototype 'MOTHER' was built with boilermakers pitch - and unhardened plate ( an unnecessary cost as it was considered experimental only.) Engineers pitch was employed on all production types thereafter.

[brooker]

Speaking for myself, I would recommend you buy a Russian or Polish paper kit of your WW1 tank which will come in 1/24 scale or bigger.

The kit is in book form and you have to mould the parts to the shape required, nevertheless the detail on each part of the kit is awesome and you can strengthen the thin card parts internally, after you have cut them out, using the outside card skin as a template.

You don't have to stay at the kit size either. You can enlarge the kit on a photocopier to a much larger scale if you want - I photocopy in black and white, however, you do 5 copies of the final enlargement, keep one as a master, use the other 4 as building sheets, for stuff ups and until you get the hang of the card construction bit which is dead easy.

For complex shapes in thicker backing card, lightly wet under a tap and bend around a form, then set aside to dry - the name of the game is to not get any creases - use a sharp bench edge for a straight edge (after lightly scoring), or a broom handle for round shapes, etc.

Use clothes pegs or pins to hold pieces in place until the glue has dried.

Use PVA glue and pre glue the thin card you are going to stick your photocopy to, then pour some PVA glue on the back of the photocopy and brush it over the back side on a clean flat surface, (you can remove PVA spills with a wet cloth afterwards) so that it is covered with a thin coating of glue, be careful not to tear the photocopy while doing that, then lay the glued photocopy side onto the preglued thin card, starting from one side and using a tea towel or flannel, to carefully lay the rest of the photocopy onto the card, easing out creases and bubbles - then set aside to dry for at least 24 hours, before using - possibly under a bed.

Lightly score bend lines, using a ruler and your hobby knife (a Stanley Trimmer or a scalpel type of hobby knife which you hold like a biro and a MAUN metal safety ruler), then bend.

Cut off tabs and edge join parts - you don't get unsightly lumps under the skin then.

Use a cutting board and never cut card on a wooden table or anywhere where you might leave cut marks, as they don't rub off - have a good light behind you, so that you don't strain your eyes - I use a wood sheet, cut to length and about 12 inches wide which sits over the arms of my chair, so I can watch TV with my family - a shopping bag on one side, for the parts to be cut and a shopping bag on the other side for waste - so no mess and no unpleasant smells either and no being banned to outside or worse.

Use PVA glue - you only need as much wet glue on both surfaces to be joined as you would find on the back of a postage stamp, before you paste it to an envelope, so you won't need much glue.

Boxes and small items on the external hull, build up solid in card, paint and then glue in place - after the model has been painted with water based paint.

Doors and protrusions on the hull can be replicated using thin card cut to shape and stuck on the appropriate place.

Rivets, droplets of PVA glue applied through a hypodermic syringe (including needle), which you can buy from the chemists - a bit of practice and it is easy to get a uniform shaped rivet.

Join marks, of plating, can easily be inscribed by lightly scoring the lines with a hobby knife - however always use a ruler - otherwise a freehand straight line, will always be wobbly and spoil the final effect and remember, you cannot sand card, because it goes fluffy and spoils the final finish, so use your, above, spare work sheets to get each part right.

Painting, take the kit to your local paint stockist and get a sample tin of water based paint made up using their computer to get the colour right - then just paint over the completed model, to get the previous laid on detail, to jump out at you.

If you want to make your tank look used and war torn - use a light coating of Shellac on the outside, after the paint has dried, otherwise use clear varnish to build strength into all of the card parts, as the final job, inside and out and to also waterproof your model so it will last for years - probably longer than you remain alive.

If you use up all of your work sheets, take your master set and use them to photocopy more, never use your master sheets.

If you have an r/c tank in say 1/15 scale, it might be possible to use the lower hull, with motors and tracks, etc, to dummy up a working model of your WW1 tank......which you have photocopy enlarged to that scale.....make sure you get the width and length accurate in comparison with your r/c lower tank hull.

I've posted pix of my card warship models which are in some cases up to 6 feet long and for r/c in this forum - just look for Brooker to find them and get an idea of what can be done.

Brooker

[Tzulscha]

Yeah, what Brooker said.

There are some fantastic card kits out there that translte very well to other materials.

I once saw a 1/72 737 kit done in soda cans (shiny side out of course), that was amazing.

[bull-nut]

The World of Tanks Russian site has a bunch of paper models available for free download in 1/48-1/50 scale. including a Mk1 Male. I can't vouch as to the accuracy of them, but I would bet that they are pretty close, Wargaming do a fair bit of research, measuring, etc down at Bovington.

 

Link

Edited September 16, 2017 by bull-nut