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MEK


Rodders154

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Just returning to modelling after a break of around 30 years and whilst I have still plenty of kits I didn't have any "glue" or paints mine being very old so off I went to the model shop to get some and couldn't believe it when they looked blank at me for asking for MEK.

I understand that it has got a bad press from looking it up on the net when I got home but I wondered what people use nowadays. I am using contacta but I prefer the old MEK

Also another stupid question, How do you use acrylic paints? do you use water to thin them? I know jack about them . :shrug:

Help me out please

Rodders

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No expert on acrylic paints, but some paints are easier to spray on using an airbrush than using a paint brush. Lifecolors are quite good for painting but you need to paint in thin layers and leaving each coat to dry, but in all honesty it can be hit and miss with what colours you are using as well and some colours are easier to paint and others are easier to airbrush, and may be a good idea to prime the model first, although I know some good modelers who can paint without the use of a primer, but they do use enamels.

In the end its just what you find more comfortable with

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Just returning to modelling after a break of around 30 years and whilst I have still plenty of kits I didn't have any "glue" or paints mine being very old so off I went to the model shop to get some and couldn't believe it when they looked blank at me for asking for MEK.

I understand that it has got a bad press from looking it up on the net when I got home but I wondered what people use nowadays. I am using contacta but I prefer the old MEK

Also another stupid question, How do you use acrylic paints? do you use water to thin them? I know jack about them . :shrug:

Help me out please

Rodders

Some Modelzones sell Testors Liquid Cement - According to the bottle it's a MEK/Acetone (Sp?) mix. I use Tamiya Extra Thin with is MEK based but has to be imported (eBay is your best bet, £5, free postage). Or there's a Mr Hobby one which is very similar which I assume is MEK based.

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I am currently using EMA plastic weld as my liquid poly, it works well am I can recommend it, I have also used Slaters Mekpak and Plastruct Plastic Weld which are also good. Liquid poly is my adhesive of first choice, after that I use thin superglue (such as on painted or metal parts), the clear GS Hypo cement is good for transparent parts as it won't fog them like superglue can, although it is a bit stringy. White PVA type glue like Gator Grip also has its uses. I occasionally use thick superglue and traditional tube cement.

With acrylics I generally use plain tap water without any problems. This is mainly with Vallejo acrylics, their Model Air range is not supposed to require thinning (for airbrushing) but I usually add a few drops of water when spraying. I have got some isopropyl alcohol which is supposed to be good with Tamiya acrylics but I usually just use water (IPA will speed up drying time). IPA is good for cleaning out aibrushes as it seams to have more disolving power than plain water. Note that some acrylics are not compatible with IPA and will turn into a gunky mess.

I would recommend to always use a primer especially with acrylics but even with enamels. Not only will this enhance paint adhesion but vitally it will also reveal any remaining flaws in the finish that require fettling. For near complete models I use Tamiya spray can primers in grey or white as appropriate. For small parts I am currently using Alclad's primers in grey or black (they do a white as well). All of these are good products.

I hope that's of use.

Nigel

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Panic, pure and simple; somebody said that it was carcinogenic, and it all took off from there. It took a serving member of IPMS (USA,) and a practising scientist, at that, to set the record straight; it's listed as flammable and an irritant, nothing more. Even Canada and California can't find a reason to ban it; plumbers use it as a cleaner for plastic pipes, before joining them together with a dichloromethane mixture (now that material is a different matter entirely.)

Edgar

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Panic, pure and simple; somebody said that it was carcinogenic, and it all took off from there. It took a serving member of IPMS (USA,) and a practising scientist, at that, to set the record straight; it's listed as flammable and an irritant, nothing more. Even Canada and California can't find a reason to ban it; plumbers use it as a cleaner for plastic pipes, before joining them together with a dichloromethane mixture (now that material is a different matter entirely.)

Edgar

Our dear friends in Brussels have banned dichloromethane (Nitromors Paint Stripper is now promoted as 'Dichloromethane free') and if you really do want MEK, get it before they ban that too.

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Thanks chaps - Most helpful. Oh how much easeier it was back then. I always brushed painted the models and then used Crysal Kleer floor polish to varnish it. I do have an airbrush it was given to me by Mike Keeps widow when he passed away so might get it out and give it a go.

Rodders

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I know many poeple prefer to use a hairy stick and can achieve very good results, but IMHO using an airbrush is the best way to see a quantum leap in your modelling standards.

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ahh, okay, so basically it was a nanny state thing that just got silly.

Interestinging, if you Google MEK, its also listed on some of the Drug Table thingies.

Couple years ago I bought half a dozen bottles and put them in my suitcase for the flight home and they ran out at the begining of this year, and Ive been using the plastic weld stuff which is just as good, along with the Tamiya ultra thin stuff.

ok, well thanks for the answer

Steve

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I can recommend Gunze's Mr Cement S. It is very thin and quick acting.

Acrylics are a much better bet than enamels IMHO. Less mess and smell and they dry quickly. Tamiya is a good starting point whether you are spraying or brush painting. Their thinners is also worth buying and it works with pretty much every other paint as well. Both are easily available and the choice of colours is not bad now.

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ahh, okay, so basically it was a nanny state thing that just got silly.

Interestinging, if you Google MEK, its also listed on some of the Drug Table thingies.

Couple years ago I bought half a dozen bottles and put them in my suitcase for the flight home and they ran out at the begining of this year, and Ive been using the plastic weld stuff which is just as good, along with the Tamiya ultra thin stuff.

ok, well thanks for the answer

Steve

Hi Steve. You can get MEK and Methylene Chroride from Chemical Small Packs in Jo'burg, you might have to buy 5l otherwise if R60 a bottle at the Avaiation Shop.

Colin

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I got my diclo in bulk of Ebay, 5ltr for the price of 250ml when sold as plastic weld. Also got isoprop alcohol from same supplier, useful for thinning and cleaning, buy a bunch and it makes the expensive courier more sensible.

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Whilst on a visit to the RAF Museum Hendon earlier this year I called at Hannants shop nearby and bought a couple of bottles of 'Slaters MEK-PAK'.

Alas I understand that Hannants can't send it via the mail.

Chris

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MEK is still widely used in the Aerospace industry. That's where I get mine from. As a good a glue as Tamiya Extra Thin or Mr Cement S, and it doesn't seem to evaporate as fast as the the Tamyia or Gunze product does

Edited by Calum
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After the winter & spring, when your lawn mower won't start,

Unscrew the plug, and use a hypo to squirt in just a drop or two of MEK.

I guarantee it WILL fire on the next pull!

BTW - MEK = Methyl Ethyl Ketone - for those who wondered.

And yes, it's on sale in downtown Riyadh.

'Ace' products of Illinois.

I have a tin in the cupboard.

Good for polishing your Camels toenails.

Pete

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