Team Aer Lingus Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Hi all thought it was time to put something on here I'm hoping to build an Aer Lingus Lockheed 14 using the Airfix Hudson kit as a basis for this conversion. I have the Max decals sheet for the aircraft I know I have to fill the nose & rear turret but is there anything else I should look out for or conversion set that could help me any ideas would be greatly appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Maybe you should consider the Italeri kit that has the plastic of the MPM tooling in. This kit has all the bits you need. Solid nose, rear fuselage upper to blank the turret, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelldoc Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Or have a look here: http://www.plastik-modellbau.org/blog/neuheiten-vorgestellt-lockheed-hudson-mk-iii-von-revell/2013/#more-18989 The Hudson from Revell (really MPM) has also a solid nose and a part to cover the turret. It's usefull, so it can be a Lockheed Super Electra coming up from this kit. modelldoc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Headroom Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 The Airfix offering has rubbish engines and there are no Wright Cyclone replacements I can think of. The canopy is squashed - Airways did a replacement in the 80's so is pretty well extinct. The slots in the wing leading edges are represented by engraved oblongs and are in the wrong position anyway. On the plus side the passenger access door is correct for a civvie Hudson (rounded top as opposed to squared off on the military version). As said above you will need to blank off the turret. Revell's repop of the MPM Hudson family concentrates on the mk.1 - 3 Cyclone versions. It has both glazed and solid noses, a blanking plate for the dorsal turret and an indentation on the inside of the fuselage to drill out the 'eyebrow' windows aft of the passenger door (wrong for a civvie Hudson this time!). I'm building this at the moment (stalled because for reasons too boring to mention here it is inaccessible), but as warned to me, is looking to be an absolute cow to fit together. Whichever route you take, grit your teeth, take a dram of something and prepare to expand your Anglo Saxon vocabulary.! Trevor 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Test Graham Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 There are at least two options for the Cyclone engines/cowlings, from Flypast and from Red Roo. Some Model 14s had a transparent tip to the nose: to allow the use of a DF loop, I believe. This is worth checking for the one you wish to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Aer Lingus Posted May 19, 2013 Author Share Posted May 19, 2013 Thanks for all the advice I'm seriously thinking of cross kitting and seeing how that goes will be putting some pics up during the week as I've just purchased the Revell kit and hope to start on Tuesday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Turf Burner Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 Take care with the Max decals. I tried to produce an Aer Lingus DC-3 (using the Esci kit) and those decals which did not fall apart stuck like a leach to the first bit of plastic they touched, which was not necessarily where I wanted them to go. Nothing would move them – short of sandpaper! Total disaster – kit now on the “shelf of doom” awaiting repainting (someday, perhaps, never). Now, it could well have been my fault and the decals were years old – but take care. I suggest you scan the decals first and then use Micro liquid decal film. Best of luck – look forward to progress reports. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AAbshier Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 Take care with the Max decals. I tried to produce an Aer Lingus DC-3 (using the Esci kit) and those decals which did not fall apart stuck like a leach to the first bit of plastic they touched, which was not necessarily where I wanted them to go. Nothing would move them – short of sandpaper! Total disaster – kit now on the “shelf of doom” awaiting repainting (someday, perhaps, never). Now, it could well have been my fault and the decals were years old – but take care. I suggest you scan the decals first and then use Micro liquid decal film. Best of luck – look forward to progress reports. Sounds like the old Propagteam decals. I seem to recall that saliva (!) applied underneath the decal enabled it to slide and be positioned on the model. Thereafter your model will be known as a "spitting image" of the original. I started an MPM Hudson and found it rather challenging. It can be done, but take your time. Andy Sarasota FL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steverog Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 The Max Decals sheets that I have were indeed produced by Propagteam. I've had some problems with them, but the use of liquid decal film first will help. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CliffB Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 Hi Team Aer Lingus Somewhere I think I've got an old Airfix Magazine conversion article. Happy to dig it out and scan it for you if it would still be of interest to you. Cliff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Test Graham Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 Noe that the Airfix tailplane is wrong - the whole surface between the two fins moves, there is no fixed central part. MPM has it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Headroom Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 See my walkaround of the Hendon example http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234938084-lockheed-hudson/#entry1287001 Since I wrote the blurb to go with the pix I remembered that there are no guns in the nose. Trevor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garryrussell Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 Year ago I saw an article coverting the Airfix to a 14 and TBh there was probably more work correcting the kit for the 'Hudson' parts than the conversion. The Italeri one just has to be a better base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Russell Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 I'll second the idea of saliva for Propagteam decals, which I got from a curmudgeonly old kit retailer. There is a product which is basically artificial saliva which I was told also works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 I'll second the idea of saliva for Propagteam decals, which I got from a curmudgeonly old kit retailer. There is a product which is basically artificial saliva which I was told also works. And if you really don't want to spit on your model, I've found a drop or two of washing up liquid in the decal water also helps shift them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Aer Lingus Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 Hoping to put up some pics this week thank you so much for all your replies and help much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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