chris57 Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Gentlemen; Opinions sort with regard to glues for canopy securing. I've been using Deluxe Materials Glue 'n' Glaze, which seems a bit so so. Question is whats the opinion on Formula 560 canopy glue?,which appears to come from Modelzone. thanks for replies, cheers chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnd Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 '560' is the one I use, very impressed and will buy it again if I ever get to the bottom of this bottle. John. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smuts Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 Hi, never used that, I use Gator glue great stuff! get it from paul at Little cars & its water based too, also good for PE & resin...bonus. Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julien Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 Yep gator glue is excellent for canopies and other parts where you dont need any tensile strength. Julien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murdo Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 (edited) I've used Formula 560 canopy glue a couple of times and found it very strong and very clear (and in a BIG bottle). I think that Humbrol Clearfix is clearer but I haven't really tested its strength yet. I've used Gator Glue to glue some bits but found that it took a while to set and certainly wasn't strong. They weren't clear parts so I can't verify its clarity. I have all three handy so I'll try and do some comparison tests in a week or two when I get back from my next work trip around the UK. By the way, from what I've seen so far, don't let Klear ( old or new - and I've tested both) touch Humbrol Clearfix or Formula 560. They both seem to fog / craze when coated with Klear - although it is more like blistering. I'll post the examples when I get back. I haven't tried either of the Klear versions on Gator Glue as I thought the holding strength was so poor it wasn't worth using on a canopy (or anything, to be honest) especially a raised one, even in 1:144. Edited May 19, 2013 by Murdo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magman2 Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 I use GS Hypo Cement Clear Dry, after a recommendation by Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 I use GS Hypo Cement Clear Dry, after a recommendation by Mike. And as well as being touched that someone took my recommendation, I'll just add that it is very strong, doesn't cloud, has a dainty needle-applicator and hadn't let me down once in all the years I've used it. Available cheaply From eBay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
khimbar Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 And as well as being touched that someone took my recommendation, I'll just add that it is very strong, doesn't cloud, has a dainty needle-applicator and hadn't let me down once in all the years I've used it. Available cheaply From eBay How simple is this stuff to use? I fancy a try of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sundown Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 Another vote for the GS Hypo cement, cheap as chips and works superbly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 How simple is this stuff to use? I fancy a try of it. I just squeeze the tube, it comes out of the little needle/tube applicator onto the clear part (or the fuselage if easier), and press the two parts together. Sometimes I put a piece of tape over the part to hold them together, sometimes I don't - it depends on whether the part fits snugly or not. Once it's dry, remove any strings that have occurred when you remove the applicator from the part, scrape away any overspill (which is easy, because it's not a solvent based glue - it's a watch crystal cement), and away you go. I've even filled and sanded gaps between the clear parts & the fuselage with no hint of it coming apart. If you need to remove the part for any reason, firm pressure should bring it off, and there will be no damage to the plastic, although your paint job might suffer a little? A tube lasts me a couple of years, and it doesn't seem to go hard due to lack of use. The only issue I've ever had is the applicator has come out of my first tube, but I would probably glue it back in with CA if I could be bothered. Instead I use it for a temporary glue solution, as it comes out a bit quicker from the open end now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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