Jump to content

Eduard Mk IX, Back on the go!


Recommended Posts

Hi mate,

yeah the mossies on hold unfortunately, since I naffed the canopy up I have now found out that no-one anywhere does a vac bomber canopy for a mossie in 48th and revell have discontinued the kit (shame...). The only spare I can get is for the Tamiya kit, which when I tested a mates isn't a great fit and works out about £15 posted (which I am to tight to part with) :) Keeping an eye out for a revell kit on ebay at the right price with the plan to convert whats left into a fighter version, was going to try to vac a copy from the old canopy but had the bright idea of filling it with squadron white putty to make a plug and came back the next day to find a shapeless melted blob, :doh: . So for now its sat on the microwave looking all sad and half finished, waiting for an improvement in abilities or relaxing of wallet :)

Anyway open ramble over! Re: the markings, its nice to see something a bit different from the norm, especially when its brilliantly executed...says he whos is building the ten billionth mkxii with box markings for EB.B (though in my defence theres not a whole lot of variety for a mark that only had a hundred or so built) :)

Keep up the good work! Stu

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Following on from where I left off, Mal got straight onto the case and re cut the code letters and had them back to me yesterday morning, so a big thanks to him, I've said it before but he goes the extra mile to get things right for you.

Here are the results.

DSC_2187_zps5529878d.jpg

The fuselage cross and T9 unit code painted, you need plenty of masking tape!

DSC_2182_zpsf6626371.jpg

You'll notice I've also used post it notes, this was used for areas that I've used the AK Worn Effects. This is because its risky masking over it as the paint pulls off pretty easy.

The completed starboard side.

DSC_2191_zpsabfecbca.jpg

You can see that by using masks you lose no surface detail whatsoever.

Upper wing crosses done complete with a look see with the prop!

DSC_2194_zpsad64ee13.jpg

DSC_2196_zps13a57876.jpg

So thats the paint work and markings completed, I'll leave it a day now and then I'll seal everything in with a misting of Vallejo matt before moving on to some weathering. The first stage will be to add a filter or 2.

Thanks for looking in.

Tim.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is superb, it's been well worth the wait for those intermediate sized code masks, they really do look spot on. Excellent masking and spraying too, such a great paint finish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Absolutely excellent work. I am very impressed with the results from the masks. How much extra effort does it take masks versus decals? And, is it similar to the task of masking a canopy?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This turning into something brilliant...

Nice one Tank!

Yours aye

Iain

Thanks Iain,

its getting there now I feel, its always good to see the markings on as thats when the build really starts to come to life.

Tim.

This is superb, it's been well worth the wait for those intermediate sized code masks, they really do look spot on. Excellent masking and spraying too, such a great paint finish.

Cheers Ruari,

no those original codes just didn't look right did they. Its always better to wait and get things right rather than just plough on with the build I feel.

Very nice Tim.

Like the result with the masks. I look forward to the weathering process!

Regards,

Thanks Kent, I won't be going over board with the weathering as it would have been kept in pretty good condition, there certainly won't be any gun smoke stains on the wings!

Absolutely excellent work. I am very impressed with the results from the masks. How much extra effort does it take masks versus decals? And, is it similar to the task of masking a canopy?

George, compared with applying decals there is more work involved using masks. That said its no more complicated to place them than using pre cut masks for canopies, its just a matter of taking your time and getting them placed in the correct position. If you use Miracle Masks you get a full set of written instructions on using them and for each particular mask. You also get 4 of each mask so room for error. You also need plenty of masking tape to cover to surrounding areas. Obviously you need to use an airbrush, and its just a matter of using well thinned paint and misting the paint on and building the colour up slowly. Like I've said you don't loose any surface detail at all and there is never any worry about getting things like silvering.

The good thing about German markings is that they are pretty simple!

That is looking gorgeous! Loving the masks vs. decals.,

Well I never thought I'd hear someone saying it looked gorgeous, not in these markings anyway.

If you've never used masks before then why not give them a go?

Thanks for looking in and your comment.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

One more reason to break down and start using my airbrush. The markings are so much better sprayed on. Of course, I am giving some credit to the person who actually sprayed them on. Do not think credit is due entirely from the set of masks. You do good work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks George. Yes I think you get that airbrush up and running, believe me, they open up a whole new world modelling wise.

Hopefully I'll make a bit more progress tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking very impressive. I've got some Maketar masks lined up for my Whirlwind; I can only hope they come out as nicely!

regards,

Jason

Good stuff, I'm sure they will do. I fancy doing a proper Spit now so it'll be good to try my hand at some RAF markings in masks.

Tim.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking great there Tim, your a walking advert for using masks - need to give them a try myself!

Look forwards to seeing where you go with the weathering now and hoping to pick up some tips :)

Stu

Cheers Stu, yeah give them a go sometime.

A bit more progress to report, I've now moved on to the weathering stages, I'm not going overboard as its new owners wouldn't have given it a hard life it basically spent its time just touring round various airfields so that members of the Luftwaffe could get a close look at one of their main opponents.

After giving the whole model a coat of Vallejo Matt I mixed up a filter made up of AK Winter Streaking Grime, ( a tip I picked up from reading various Jamie Haggo articles) this was made around 5% AK/95% thinners, and applied that with a large brush over the complete model being careful not to let it pool anywhere, its just to tint the paint work and not to act as a wash. I gave that a day to cure as its an Enamel. I thin applied a wash which is quite a neutral colour, this was done with a 00 good quality brush straight into the various panel lines etc. I don't bother with a gloss varnish now and never have any trouble getting washes to flow along panel lines, if I do I'll touch the lines with a brush loaded with some neat thinners.

DSC_2240_zps8358d83c.jpg

This is the starboard wing after a filter and wash.

DSC_2207_zpsa8392093.jpg

Any over flow can be cleaned up with a brush dampened with some thinner and blended in.

After another days drying I started to fade the paint work this I do with Oils dotted onto the model and then blended in with brushes just dampened with thinners, you don't want to much thinner on the brush or you'll end up with a wash.

DSC_2216_zpsd85a9ce5.jpg

DSC_2217_zps11145fe4.jpg

This is what I ended up with,

Starboard,

DSC_2225_zps5ad1f765.jpg

and Port,

DSC_2224_zps598e0810.jpg

I've kept things quite subtle, but I may take another look when the oils have fully dried and take things from there. I also re applied the wash to certain areas like the flaps and ailerons.

These are the oils and thinners I used,

DSC_2239_zps2cd0d4e3.jpg

Finally if you're into weathering then these books are a must, I know they are for Armour but the same techniques can be adjusted for using on aircraft.

DSC_2243_zps0ede5f41.jpg

Cheers for looking in.

Edited by tank152
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Super work Tim, and a good little 'how to' at the same time, good stuff!

Cheers Ruari.

Noice Tim,

Informative and well presented. I assume you use a wide brush to perform the dot filter? The oils list is a good reference too.

Thanks

Kent

Kent, to apply the filter, I either use a No 6 round or a 6mm flat brush. To apply the oil I'll use something like a No 0 or 1 and to blend them I'll use from No 2 up to No 6 rounds. I really should treat my self to a half decent flat brush as well. The flat brushes I've got at the moment are W & N sables so I don't want to be stippling with those!

The weathering looks very good!

Cheers.

Thanks IIan, I'm just after a used look for this one, nothing to drastic.

Tim.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking great there mate, nice to see it all step by step and the dot filtering has come out really nicely - will be cutting and pasting this for future reference :)

Do you find theres much of a difference between the Abteilung oil paints and bog standard artists ones?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tim, very nice weathering, subtle where needed! Very informative on tools and mats!

Learning a lot :)

Cheers Crowbar, it makes all worth while to think someone is learning stuff from what I'm posting.

Looking great there mate, nice to see it all step by step and the dot filtering has come out really nicely - will be cutting and pasting this for future reference :)

Do you find theres much of a difference between the Abteilung oil paints and bog standard artists ones?

Thanks Stu, I've only ever used Abteilung Oils so can't really comment although I've read that the pigments are finer ground in these. I'd steer clear from Acrylic ones though as being acrylics they'd dry quick, the best thing about oils is that they take ages to dry so you can play around with them for ages until you're pleased with the results. Another thing is don't use normal household White Spirits as these are far to hot and likely to dissolve your paint/varnish. Use Artist Quality low odour ones apart from the sort I'm using now I've used W & N also the sort like AK and MIG do are great.

Still undecided whether to give it an oil stained belly though, I've had a few practice runs today at doing a few but not quite got it sussed yet.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...