lipkicker Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 (edited) This will be my first try at weathering , would like to try some pigments . can ayone recomed a product and method Cheer Edited April 14, 2013 by lipkicker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Severus Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 Interesting - Can't decide, whether the brown shade looks too red, or the green should be greener... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckb1 Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 Looking good on the green I like the effect hope mine turns out that clean. Quick question is the brown you used more of a Sienna shade? Im in the process of building the New Airfix Dambuster and the colour on my chart that I have bought and the Lanc at RAF Hendon that I photographed last week was more earthy brown. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lipkicker Posted April 14, 2013 Author Share Posted April 14, 2013 The brown is 3 parts XF79 and 1 part XF1 thinned with 2 parts tamiya thinners Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lipkicker Posted April 14, 2013 Author Share Posted April 14, 2013 I always struggle with raf camo, I only use tarmiya paints and they don't seem to be a good match. What do you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxim_G Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 It seems that you already have done some weathering works. But why without decals? Shiny new insignia will look a little strange on weathered surfaces. And coming to pigments - I don't see a point to use pigments on aircraft models in 1/72 scale. Maybe for undercarriage only. On my opinion, artist's oil dots method will do better. And what are your plans for black part of structure? It obviously need some shading and weathering. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lipkicker Posted April 15, 2013 Author Share Posted April 15, 2013 Hi maxim I literally know nothing about weathering , my only point of reference is what I can see online but there seems to be so many different techniques it gets a bit confusing For this go at it I am putting on a wash then a coat of varnish then more wash in an attempt to try to build up some depth, I will apply another coat of wash after applying decals. The oil dot method sounds interesting but I've no idea how to do it. And as for the black ,what would you recommend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMCS Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 My grandfather built those in WW2. So a subject close to my heart. Looking good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxim_G Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 (edited) lipkicker, actually, several wash attempt seems to me not bad - it already looks like somewhat used airframe. But what color do you use for wash? It seems black to me. Oil dots - it is easier to show, than to explain. Unfortunately I don't have photos of process step-by-step. In few words - with fine brush you place small dots of different colours of artist oil paint all over the surface in random but uniform order, then with flat brush soaked in white-spirit, turpentine etc. you gently blend these dots by parallel moves (moves should be parallel to chord on wing surface and vertical on fuselage), don't forget to remove excess paint from the brush periodically. You will end up with little visible strokes of different shades, which will give uneven and worn apperance to surfaces of your model. Try to google for "oil dot weathering method" - I think you can find some examples. It is really effective and easy way of weathering. Of course, some practice needed to achive best results. Some things to keep in mind: - use no less than four-five different colours (black,white,ocher, two tones of brown seems to me right for your Lanc, also small amount of blue and green will not hurt); - thinner used for blending should not react with base paint - you need to try it on some old model or plastic piece; - base surface should be matt (usuall sequence - paint/gloss varnish/wash/matt varnish/oil dots/final varnish for your taste. For the black areas I suggest to try to lighten panels a bit with dark grey, leaving panel lines in black. Then follow with dark grey filter (very diluted paint, to say honestly, - more dirty thinner than thinned paint), also you can give it a little brown or even blue tone - I think it will look good. So at the finish you should have surface with "very dark gray" panels and "almost black" panel lines - not "absolute black" uniform paintwork. And final advice for today - "something new" should always be tried on old model or plastic. It is better to spend some hours for trials than end up with model, spoiled by painting/weathering mistakes. Edited April 16, 2013 by Maxim_G 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lipkicker Posted April 15, 2013 Author Share Posted April 15, 2013 Thanks Maxim , some fantastic advise there. I will be making a trip to hobbycraft tomorrow and I will definately be having a go. For this one I used pro moddelers flat black and I had no idea Black could be weathered. Fantastic tips . Top Man!! . Please let me knpw what you think of my progress. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxim_G Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 lipkicker, your progress is nice. I see some problems with decals film silvering, but maybe this effect on photos caused by flash. What can I suggest for your future works - do not use black wash, dark brown (more better - with addition of some drops of black to have grayish tone) will give more realistic results. Coming to black color - on my opinion, large black areas on aircraft models are one of the most complex paintworks to represent. Pure black colored model without any shading and weathering will look like a "black hole". It is better to use very dark gray, brown-black or even blue-black tone, but never use pure black color on large areas. Actually, there is two colors to be avoided in aircraft modelling - pure black and pure white, - there's always should be some gray or brown tone. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lipkicker Posted April 16, 2013 Author Share Posted April 16, 2013 maxim , I think those decals might need to come off . My first thought is that the decal soft has failed to bond the decals to the varnished surface. Do you think a grey / brown wash might sort it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxim_G Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 Wash can not help with the decals issue. It can soften film silvering effect, but will not fix issue to satisfactory level. Maybe surface is not gloss enough, or decal soft is incompatible with Revell's decals. Try different softening medium, but be careful - some mediums can destroy decals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lipkicker Posted April 16, 2013 Author Share Posted April 16, 2013 Well the good news is the brown on black wash worked a treat , bad news is decals had to come off the wings ans the silvering was ridicuous. Note to self decal set dosent work on top of varnish........DOH 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lipkicker Posted April 17, 2013 Author Share Posted April 17, 2013 I Now need some decals , if anyone has spares that would be awesome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxim_G Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 That's a shame that decals come off... Seems that this problem is common for Revell's "super decals". I faced same problem on Revell's F4U-4 my daughter built. Fix those decals left on model with several layers of varnish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lipkicker Posted April 17, 2013 Author Share Posted April 17, 2013 ordered some more today , will have to wait and see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lipkicker Posted April 19, 2013 Author Share Posted April 19, 2013 (edited) Bit more done turrets and props and undercarrige onhttp:// Edited April 20, 2013 by lipkicker 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lipkicker Posted April 27, 2013 Author Share Posted April 27, 2013 Here we are, decals arrived ' last bits done. Overall pleased with the end product Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 Good job!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuck Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 Interesting color scheme, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogsbody Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Hate to be a buzz kill, but you have installed the rudder mass balances backwards. They should points towards the front. Otherwise, a good effort. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuck Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 I made the same mistake with my lanc, be nice if the instruction guy at revell could learn to draw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxim_G Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Nice result! Misaligned balance weght already mentioned. be nice if the instruction guy at revell could learn to draw. No earlier than sky falls on the gound! It seems that this guy involved in puzzle design also - at least Halifax instruction pushed me to this conclusion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wigum Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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