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Revell 1:72 Lancaster


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Looking good on the green I like the effect hope mine turns out that clean. Quick question is the brown you used more of a Sienna shade? Im in the process of building the New Airfix Dambuster and the colour on my chart that I have bought and the Lanc at RAF Hendon that I photographed last week was more earthy brown.

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It seems that you already have done some weathering works. But why without decals? Shiny new insignia will look a little strange on weathered surfaces.

And coming to pigments - I don't see a point to use pigments on aircraft models in 1/72 scale. Maybe for undercarriage only. On my opinion, artist's oil dots method will do better. And what are your plans for black part of structure? It obviously need some shading and weathering.

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Hi maxim

I literally know nothing about weathering , my only point of reference is what I can see online but there seems to be so many different techniques it gets a bit confusing

For this go at it I am putting on a wash then a coat of varnish then more wash in an attempt to try to build up some depth, I will apply another coat of wash after applying decals. The oil dot method sounds interesting but I've no idea how to do it.

And as for the black ,what would you recommend

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lipkicker, actually, several wash attempt seems to me not bad - it already looks like somewhat used airframe. But what color do you use for wash? It seems black to me.

Oil dots - it is easier to show, than to explain. Unfortunately I don't have photos of process step-by-step. In few words - with fine brush you place small dots of different colours of artist oil paint all over the surface in random but uniform order, then with flat brush soaked in white-spirit, turpentine etc. you gently blend these dots by parallel moves (moves should be parallel to chord on wing surface and vertical on fuselage), don't forget to remove excess paint from the brush periodically. You will end up with little visible strokes of different shades, which will give uneven and worn apperance to surfaces of your model. Try to google for "oil dot weathering method" - I think you can find some examples. It is really effective and easy way of weathering. Of course, some practice needed to achive best results. Some things to keep in mind:

- use no less than four-five different colours (black,white,ocher, two tones of brown seems to me right for your Lanc, also small amount of blue and green will not hurt);

- thinner used for blending should not react with base paint - you need to try it on some old model or plastic piece;

- base surface should be matt (usuall sequence - paint/gloss varnish/wash/matt varnish/oil dots/final varnish for your taste.

For the black areas I suggest to try to lighten panels a bit with dark grey, leaving panel lines in black. Then follow with dark grey filter (very diluted paint, to say honestly, - more dirty thinner than thinned paint), also you can give it a little brown or even blue tone - I think it will look good. So at the finish you should have surface with "very dark gray" panels and "almost black" panel lines - not "absolute black" uniform paintwork.

And final advice for today - "something new" should always be tried on old model or plastic. It is better to spend some hours for trials than end up with model, spoiled by painting/weathering mistakes. :smartass:

Edited by Maxim_G
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Thanks Maxim , some fantastic advise there. I will be making a trip to hobbycraft tomorrow and I will definately be having a go. For this one I used pro moddelers flat black and I had no idea Black could be weathered. Fantastic tips . Top Man!! . Please let me knpw what you think of my progress.P4150014_zps06da579f.jpgP4150015_zpsc2f07609.jpg

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lipkicker, your progress is nice. I see some problems with decals film silvering, but maybe this effect on photos caused by flash. What can I suggest for your future works - do not use black wash, dark brown (more better - with addition of some drops of black to have grayish tone) will give more realistic results.

Coming to black color - on my opinion, large black areas on aircraft models are one of the most complex paintworks to represent. Pure black colored model without any shading and weathering will look like a "black hole". It is better to use very dark gray, brown-black or even blue-black tone, but never use pure black color on large areas. Actually, there is two colors to be avoided in aircraft modelling - pure black and pure white, - there's always should be some gray or brown tone.

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Wash can not help with the decals issue. It can soften film silvering effect, but will not fix issue to satisfactory level. Maybe surface is not gloss enough, or decal soft is incompatible with Revell's decals. Try different softening medium, but be careful - some mediums can destroy decals.

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That's a shame that decals come off... :weep: Seems that this problem is common for Revell's "super decals". I faced same problem on Revell's F4U-4 my daughter built. Fix those decals left on model with several layers of varnish.

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Interesting color scheme, :goodjob:

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I made the same mistake with my lanc, be nice if the instruction guy at revell could learn to draw. :banghead:

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Nice result! :goodjob: Misaligned balance weght already mentioned.

be nice if the instruction guy at revell could learn to draw.

No earlier than sky falls on the gound! It seems that this guy involved in puzzle design also - at least Halifax instruction pushed me to this conclusion. :banghead:

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