Aeroclub venom fb4 help and advice please

[robvulcan]

So here it is a kit kindly given to me by a fellow BM member well over a year ago!

I have kept looking at it and putting it away as its a bit different to what I'm used too.

I'm not planning on starting it till the dragon vulcan b1s are done that said I want to build it this year but I need some advice in the mean time about the nature and methods of such a kit.

I know little about the history of the kit but if looks unusual to me

The fit it terrible on the fuselarge halfs I could fit my leg in there.

The plastic is very sence and feels like resin

The vac form canopy scares me as I have never done a vac form

So if any of you chaps want to share tips and maybe photos of how I can improve the kit and the interior that would be welcome along with general discussion on variants schemes takes as I love the venom and would like to learn more so ..,,

Here she is:

She looks cute that's for sure ill probably build my plastyk sea venom alongside too

Cheers Rob

Edited March 26, 2013 by robvulcan

[robvulcan]

After having a quick look it seems you have to scratch the cockpit and wheel bays. Intakes are just an empty space.

[David Womby]

Here's a build article and an unusual colour scheme:

http://model-scale.com/aeroclub-s-venom-fb-mk-4

David

[robvulcan]

Thanks david I couldn't find anything.

Hmm looks like I've opened up for myself a can I worms here.

Looks like a challenge!

[Jessica]

Wow! That's even rougher than my Fb.1! Vac canopies are straightforward, but somewhat frightening. The trick is to use a brand new razor knife, and don't cut all the way through the plastic. Gently score around the base of the canopy a little bit at a time. Go around the whole thing a couple or three times and then carefully cut a straight line from a clearly defined point on the canopy (such as one of the front corners) to the edge of the plastic with small sharply pointed scissors (I like to use cuticle scissors). Once you have the first line cut, you can start around the perimeter cutting straight in to the score line from the edge of the plastic. Then carefully bend the scrap plastic down and away between two cut lines so that you are putting strain on the score line you made around the base of the canopy. You'll likely have to bend the plastic back and forth a few times before it gives up and snaps off the canopy. Repeat this proces until you've snapped the scrap off the entire perimeter, then using a sanding stick clean up the edge of the canopy. Here's a little photo tutorial:

My Venom canopy as proivided by Aeroclub

Score along the black line

Then cut the scrap carefully to the edge of the scored line

Cut at several places around the perimeter to keep the stress on the canopy at a minimum. Make the cuts close together at the highly curved areas.

The first segments snapped off

And all of them off. Sorry for the blurry picture, the poor camera didn't know what to focus on

Lastly, clean up all the rough edges with your sanding stick

[robvulcan]

fantastic thanks very much jessica. how about fitting them. what glues would you use. ive heard about metpack but have no idea what this is or how to use it.

ive not read up on it yet.

it is a rough kit but a rough diamond i hope

[Jessica]

fantastic thanks very much jessica. how about fitting them. what glues would you use. ive heard about metpack but have no idea what this is or how to use it.

ive not read up on it yet.

it is a rough kit but a rough diamond i hope

I always use white glue or Microscale Krystal Clear for my vac canopies. It's forgiving, easily cleaned up, fills any gaps smoothly and won't ruin the plastic. I've read of other people using non-fogging superglue. I'd think you'd want to use only extremely tiny bits of that, and hope you get it lined up exactly right the first time I've never used it but Clearfix might also work well.

[robvulcan]

thanks ive only ever used poly for setting canopys. but im all to aware that the vac form plastic is likely much to soft and may just disolve.

the only think i used clear fix for was setting two smaller windows on a matchbox phantom.

I was actually thinking of chickening out and seeing if a revell vampire cockpit would if.

[David Womby]

Don't chicken out without trying to use the Aeroclub one. You can always fall back on the Revell/Heller one later if need be.

David

[Jessica]

thanks ive only ever used poly for setting canopys. but im all to aware that the vac form plastic is likely much to soft and may just disolve.

Or it may not be affected by the glue at all. Vac canopies are most often made from clear acetate, which is not usually affected by the glues we use for polystyrene. Thus another reason to use PVA glue.

[robvulcan]

That will teach me for assuming it was polystyrene.

[Nobby]

To make it easier to cut Rob, first fill the canopy with plasterscene or even plaster of paris. This'll give you something firm to cut on. They don't use Acetate any more at least as far as i know as i get it from my local RC shop to mold canopys with. If you go to a shop that sells RC stuff ask for canopy glue or RC Modelers glue. It looks like PVA but is hell of a lot more sticky! As i also build RC and design RC Models i have a bottle of the stuff handy and i've found its handy for glueing metal parts as well. Clean up is easy with a damp cotton bud.

[robvulcan]

Thanks for the advise sounds interesting. Ill check it out. Ta mate

[stevehnz]

Good thread witth some good advice. I was pleased to see this having one of these in my stash, destined to become a 14sqn RNZAF one. Nice tip about the cuticle scissors Jessica, thanks. 'nuther trip to the cosmetics counter coming up I reckon.

Steve.

[John Aero]

For starters, that kit is close on thirty years old and was one of the first injected kits I attempted to make with my Mickey Mouse system The kit is styrene and the canopy is PVC not Acetate. Acetate hasn't been used for making canopies since the 50's solid balsa model kits.

Cut it out as Jessica suggested, her technique is good, it's no big deal. When cut out you can even sand the edges with a fine paper. Glue on using thin PVA (white) glue. Mek glues etc will not affect the material, but superglue will. I suggest that when the canopy is trimmed and ready to fit before any painting, place the canopy into position and run a small brush full of Mek (Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone)round the canopy a couple of times and then apply a slight pressure with thumb and forefinger. This will bed in the canopy by slightly melting the kit plastic (it won't harm unless you get finger prints on it. Let it harden then again using slight sideways pressure to release it.

Paint and fit the canopy back in the the tiny bedding ridge using thin PVA.

For cockpit details just look at the Vampire threads, the cockpit is virtually identical.

John

[AnonymousAA72]

Don't be scared of a kit Rob! Follow the notes carefully about the Canopy - you'll be fine. As for the kit itself, careful cleaning up of the plastic will help. I'd suggest maybe gently sanding down the mating surfaces of the fuselage pod to get a nice straight surface, as you would for a vac-form kit. Tape a sheet of wet n'dry paper to a board and gently sand the pod in a circular motion.

As John says its an old kit using old limited run techniques, but thats not to say it doesn't build up into a nice replica. I built this kit many years ago-probably when it was first issued (in 28 Sqn colours with the blue rudder, yellow tip tanks and blue Lightning bolt) and I was very pleased with it. Its a shame that the decals have yellowed a bit, but that just shows its age.

Go for it Rob....

[Jon Kunac-Tabinor]

Hi Rob - another tip you might find useful: If you have an old T shaped metal shelf support to hand, you can tape a piece of wet & dry to the top flat part using double sided tape. This then gives you an easy to hold and flat sanding surface - rather like a big flat sanding pad, excepts its rigid. Its great for truing up mating edges of parts. In effect its a cheap way of creating the "T-AL" type thing.

Good luck - and dont be scared!!

Jonners

[robvulcan]

Don't be scared of a kit Rob!

Hi Bill thanks mate i wont be. you lot spure me on. after going to the cosford show yesterday i actually cant wait to get started on this. god there was so much inspiration there. and so many amazing models you think man i have to improve. so onto this soon and i really want to attempt a vac form.

all the best Rob

[robvulcan]

Hi there thanks for the tip mate ill have to try it.

cheers rob

Hi Rob - another tip you might find useful: If you have an old T shaped metal shelf .......